Jump to content

"Hankering satisfied"


jiminyfixit

Recommended Posts

Finally found the right car & took delivery last week. Attached photo shows 87 year old adopting 4 year old. Tight fit, but won't stop hard work. A shout out to Jack Marontate for making it all happen & delivering the old girl, accompanied by John Keiser. A big part of the hobby is making new friends. The car is in surprisingly good condition, in spite of being ignored for many years, (before Jack owned it).  Compression test showed an average of 60 lbs & oily spark plugs, so a rebuild is in order, along with brakes, fuel, etc. Solid body & fenders provide a good core for a rare model. 34 Dodge Aero Brougham sedan, of which 1397 were built on the 121" wheelbase. So, my first question to you aficionados is; if the regular wheelbase is 117", where is the extra 4" hiding?

P1010532.JPG

  • Like 11
Link to comment
Share on other sites

NEATO!!!  I believe that in the Motor magazine annual show issue/ show number  for 1934 there was pages of  ads and they showed this body style plus there may be a section of pages describing the new models of Dodge. Let me check and confirm exactly what issue and I will let you know.

Edited by Walt G (see edit history)
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree, get it running an drive for awhile just as it is/   Wash it. buff it, drove it, find some hubcaps a drive it some more.   Unrestored survivor cars steal the show every time.   If you take it apart, the money pit will swallow you and the fun of the hobby.   You can fix a lot of little things without starting down the restoration road.

  • Like 7
  • Thanks 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congratulations!  Good to know this rare '34 Dodge has an appreciative new conservator!

 

"...34 Dodge Aero Brougham sedan, of which 1397 were built on the 121" wheelbase. So, my first question to you aficionados is; if the regular wheelbase is 117", where is the extra 4" hiding?"

 

To answer this would require studying the body parts catalog that covers these cars and measuring door width to compare with the standard six window sedan.  Frequently the difference in length was ahead of the cowl, in the hood panels, running boards and splash aprons.   

But. one of the basic tenets to understand about Chrysler Corporation then was they were very adept at cross-marque sharing. Consider the following:

1934 Dodge, Series DS, 121" wheelbase, 217.8 ci L-head six, Special Aero Brougham, $845, 1,397 built

1934 Chrysler, Series CB, 121" wheelbase, 241.6 ci L-head six, Close-Coupled Sedan, $935, 980 built.

Both the Dodge Series DS and Chrysler Series CB were offered in only two body styles, the other being four door convertible sedans: $875 and 350; $985 and 450, priced and built respectively.

Essentially, Dodge fielded an upmarket series in two unique body styles shared with Chrysler.

Steve

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve has it right. Earlier in 1932 the Plymouth PB 4 cylinder and the same year DeSoto 6 cylinder both shared the same 2 door convertible sedan body panel for panel. Yes, the dashboards were different so far as the gauges , each reflecting the car they were selling. Smart marketing and could be very different in appearance to the general car buying public.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for the wise suggestions on driving it first. My primary goal is "preservation" over restoration. Some things will need obvious restoration, but most can be refurbished for better function. One being, the wind wing rubber gaskets. I built the L & R 3-plate book molds to reproduce the rubber gaskets 40 years ago. Probably a pretty silly effort for a feature that was only  available 1 year. It took me that long, working on the molds evenings & weekends. I felt a bit guilty back then for selling them for $70, but, guess what, they are still available, but for a whole lot more. I sold the molds to Mitchell Motor Parts when I sold my business & now AMS Obsolete is formerly Mitchell Motor Parts. The reason I pursued the mold project is because I had a very nice 34 Plymouth 2-dr sedan that I drove regularly that broke a tooth off the ring gear. I started going through my little black book of NOS Mopar sources & started buying up all the caches of parts I could get my hands on, which resulted in the beginning of the Chrysler Emporium in Portland, Ore.  I wound up purchasing a 36 hump top panel that I loaded up & went to all the local area swap meets, with the "big one" being Harrah's swap meet, the year he passed away. It was announced over the intercom at the meet. Fortunately I saw his collection before new owners sold it. Oh yeah, the left rear axle broke on the way home as I reached the top of Siskiyou Pass. Had to unload the panel into the U-haul truck, hook up the dolly & tow it home. 

 

During the course of having the business I accumulated 14 great old Mopars, all drivers too. It seemed to be a lot easier acquiring them back then than it is now, but that was when most collectors were into Fords & Chevys. That's probably why nobody wanted the old Mopar parts hiding in defunct dealerships, which made it easy to have a monopoly on the older Mopar biz.

 

BTW, anybody have any leads on the 8, thin trim strips that go under each louver on the hood side panels? I could probably make them out of 1/2-round stock, but originals are better.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, Walt G said:

Steve has it right. Earlier in 1932 the Plymouth PB 4 cylinder and the same year DeSoto 6 cylinder both shared the same 2 door convertible sedan body panel for panel. Yes, the dashboards were different so far as the gauges , each reflecting the car they were selling. Smart marketing and could be very different in appearance to the general car buying public.

Walt:

That two-door convertible sedan body had one more make that shared it: 1932-'33 Rockne!  Briggs built the bodies, and the one major difference is the Rockne doors are hinged at the front.   Just another of those body sharing situations that happened when the companies sources bodies from outside contractors in that era.

Steve  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, jiminyfixit said:

Thank you all for the wise suggestions on driving it first. My primary goal is "preservation" over restoration. Some things will need obvious restoration, but most can be refurbished for better function. One being, the wind wing rubber gaskets. I built the L & R 3-plate book molds to reproduce the rubber gaskets 40 years ago. Probably a pretty silly effort for a feature that was only  available 1 year. It took me that long, working on the molds evenings & weekends. I felt a bit guilty back then for selling them for $70, but, guess what, they are still available, but for a whole lot more. I sold the molds to Mitchell Motor Parts when I sold my business & now AMS Obsolete is formerly Mitchell Motor Parts. The reason I pursued the mold project is because I had a very nice 34 Plymouth 2-dr sedan that I drove regularly that broke a tooth off the ring gear. I started going through my little black book of NOS Mopar sources & started buying up all the caches of parts I could get my hands on, which resulted in the beginning of the Chrysler Emporium in Portland, Ore.  I wound up purchasing a 36 hump top panel that I loaded up & went to all the local area swap meets, with the "big one" being Harrah's swap meet, the year he passed away. It was announced over the intercom at the meet. Fortunately I saw his collection before new owners sold it. Oh yeah, the left rear axle broke on the way home as I reached the top of Siskiyou Pass. Had to unload the panel into the U-haul truck, hook up the dolly & tow it home. 

 

During the course of having the business I accumulated 14 great old Mopars, all drivers too. It seemed to be a lot easier acquiring them back then than it is now, but that was when most collectors were into Fords & Chevys. That's probably why nobody wanted the old Mopar parts hiding in defunct dealerships, which made it easy to have a monopoly on the older Mopar biz.

 

BTW, anybody have any leads on the 8, thin trim strips that go under each louver on the hood side panels? I could probably make them out of 1/2-round stock, but originals are better.

I think I actually spoke with you in the parking lot of a McDonalds in downtown Santa Monica back in the late '80s, I was driving my 34 PE four door sedan that had a set of those vent rubbers and the gentleman I spoke with told me he had created the mold for them.  Still working just fine and have a spare set that I am going to adapt to fit the unique vent windows on my 34 PE convertible coupe.  Should be close enough to fit with some minor modifications due to the slightly different shape of the vent window. Always glad to contact a fellow 34 Mopar guy!  My 'fleet' is the same 34 PE 4-door sedan, 34 PE Conv. Coupe, 34 Dodge DRXX coupe and a 34 Dodge Humpback panel.  Have fun with your 'new' sedan, great looking car.

2008-0524 Garage1.jpg

2010-0801 Plymouth at Vista Rod Run8.jpg

IMG01061-20140824-1853(2).jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I bought my 48 Chrysler New Yorker it sometimes had compression and then none.

 I deducted that the valves were sticking. One head gasket and a can of penetrating oil down the valves it purrs like a kitten.

 

  Drive it a while, it may take a few miles to wake up. Then throw a little wax on it and show it off.

 

 Ps, put new tires on it. Mine were brand new many many years ago but drove like a rock pile. 

Edited by Roger Walling (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Scott Bonesteel,

I remember meeting you & commenting on your gorgeous 34 sedan while I was having lunch at McDonalds that day. I was glad to see someone actually having installed them. Good thing you bought 2 sets. Thanks for sharing the photos!!! You have a very nice collection!!!

 

Roger, I have read several similar posts that are very encouraging. As soon as I get the carb rebuilt, (frozen float, fuel all over the floor), I will attempt to get it started. New plugs, wires & distributor kit should do the trick AND, I should probably flush out the tank & fuel line, AND radiator.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, jiminyfixit said:

Scott Bonesteel,

I remember meeting you & commenting on your gorgeous 34 sedan while I was having lunch at McDonalds that day. I was glad to see someone actually having installed them. Good thing you bought 2 sets. Thanks for sharing the photos!!! You have a very nice collection!!!

 

Roger, I have read several similar posts that are very encouraging. As soon as I get the carb rebuilt, (frozen float, fuel all over the floor), I will attempt to get it started. New plugs, wires & distributor kit should do the trick AND, I should probably flush out the tank & fuel line, AND radiator.

 The fuel tank is really important to flush. My gas tank had sludge on the bottom as thick as tar. 

  The Chrysler has a  metal filter in the tank that was completely blocked up.

 I used a very strong detergent (sodium hydroxide) to soften it and then blew it out with a 3500 lb. pressure washer.

 

 Ps. The fuel line that goes into the tank  on my 48 has a small brass ring (like the kind that is used on a compression fitting) that must be there in order for the flared line to seal to the tank

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roger,

 

The fuel tank is one of my other main concerns, that's why I used a small gas can to fill the carb. I won't use the fuel tank until I have made sure it is clean, along with the fuel line & short hose.  Fortunately, the tank only smelled a bit lacquery, not real pungent.  Thanks for the input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Scott Bonesteel,

Could I trouble you to measure one of your 34 Dodge running boards, mainly length.  I'm trying to find out where the 4" of extra length is in my car. Also, maybe the hood length, down the center from firewall to radiator, (bracket to bracket). AND, one last thing, if you have all the stock instrument dash knobs, I would love a photo of them all together.

Many thanks in advance!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jiminyfixit said:

Scott Bonesteel,

Could I trouble you to measure one of your 34 Dodge running boards, mainly length.  I'm trying to find out where the 4" of extra length is in my car. Also, maybe the hood length, down the center from firewall to radiator, (bracket to bracket). AND, one last thing, if you have all the stock instrument dash knobs, I would love a photo of them all together.

Many thanks in advance!!!

Slammed at work this week but will get you the measurements/photos Friday night or Saturday morning.  SMB

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That makes sense. All I need to do now is find a regular sedan for someone to measure their doors.  2" per door would be somewhat unrecognizable. My doors measure, @ the belt line; front-31", rear-28 1/2".  My main concern is if the running boards are longer. This could kill the possibility of getting reproduction rubber later on.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, jiminyfixit said:

Well, I just received a response from the outfit that makes reproduction running boards. Their 34 Dodge boards are 57" down the center, mine is 60 1/2". I'm going to be taking VERY good care of these boards:)

Measured the running boards on my 34 DRXX coupe, and they are also about 57" (56 9/16").  The hood length, measured at the belt line, is 50 1/2".  The door (coupe) is 31" at the belt, although the sedan front doors I believe are going to be shorter.  As to the requested pictures, see attached. First two are of the Dodge.  Note that the headlight switch (lower left hand) is incorrect, it should be a rotary switch like on my 34 PE Plymouth, see attached third photo.  Note that my Plymouth's dash should be painted black, not body color (on my 'to do' list...) and I have a later Mopar ignition switch.  The ignition switch on the Dodge is correct for both cars, inset Yale 'bent key' switch.  Hope this all helps.

20220121_072552.jpg

20220121_072651.jpg

20220121_072907.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Dave Henderson said:

Another special '34 Mopar that I have only seen one of, about 30 years ago, was a Plymouth two door with an integrated trunk.  Too bad I didn't get a picture.  Anyone have anything on this?

This was an accessory unit, molded to fit into the back of the sedan, with a door in the side so you access the fuel filler.  See attached photos.  I think it is sometimes called a 'Potters Trunk'.  See them from time to time and they actually come up on ebay once in awhile.

34pf4drwithtrunk.jpg

836566012_b1a7449345_b.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Scott Bonesteel said:

Measured the running boards on my 34 DRXX coupe, and they are also about 57" (56 9/16").  The hood length, measured at the belt line, is 50 1/2".  The door (coupe) is 31" at the belt, although the sedan front doors I believe are going to be shorter.  As to the requested pictures, see attached. First two are of the Dodge.  Note that the headlight switch (lower left hand) is incorrect, it should be a rotary switch like on my 34 PE Plymouth, see attached third photo.  Note that my Plymouth's dash should be painted black, not body color (on my 'to do' list...) and I have a later Mopar ignition switch.  The ignition switch on the Dodge is correct for both cars, inset Yale 'bent key' switch.  Hope this all helps.

20220121_072552.jpg

20220121_072651.jpg

20220121_072907.jpg

Hood measurements are the same, as is the door. This makes sense due to the complex window frame mechanism.  I remember the Plymouth dash & mine was identical to yours, bent key switch & all. The Dodge dash is similar to mine, except for the light switch. I was thinking the knob for that switch would be more like the other dash knobs. I have a radio head where your ash tray goes, but no radio receiver unit. BTW, what is the larger middle knob with the small button for?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, jiminyfixit said:

Got the Dodge running today!!! Thanks to all you positive thinkers out there that said it would run!! Now I just have a lot of peripheral work to  make it reliable, smooth & quiet.

SWEEEEEET!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...