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What did you do to your pre war Buick today?


Buick35

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2 hours ago, EmTee said:

I had the new tires for my '38 mounted on the rims, which I first cleaned-up and repainted.  Now just need to put them on the car and drive...

Sounds good.What brand tires did you get?I recently bought new ones for my 35 and I got Lesters.

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11 hours ago, EmTee said:

I had the new tires for my '38 mounted on the rims, which I first cleaned-up and repainted.  Now just need to put them on the car and drive...

 

I wish I could get new tires for my '13 Buick.  No one has any.  I have some on order with Coker.  If I can not get some tires, I will be getting to a point where I will not be able to drive the car.

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)
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22 hours ago, Buick35 said:

Sounds good.What brand tires did you get?I recently bought new ones for my 35 and I got Lesters.

Well, the tires i finally bought were my 3rd choice...  I wanted 7.00-15 blackwalls, but nobody had them.  I then tried 7.00-15 BFG whitewalls from Lucas (https://www.lucasclassictires.com/) and those were unavailable.  To their credit, Lucas contacted me and said they were getting a shipment of 7.00-15 Firestone whitewalls within the week (that was back in February).  So, that's what I wound up with.  I bought four, since my spare was OK, however, now with all the supply issues I'm thinking maybe I should have bought five.

 

My Riviera (15") and my GP (14") will need tires in the next couple of years and I'm hearing those sizes are also becoming problematic...

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On 5/11/2022 at 8:25 AM, EmTee said:

To their credit, Lucas contacted me and said they were getting a shipment of 7.00-15 Firestone whitewalls within the week (that was back in February).  So, that's what I wound up with. 

 

I bought four, since my spare was OK, however, now with all the supply issues I'm thinking maybe I should have bought five.

 

I just got a call from Lucas Tires and they said that they just received a shipment of tires for my '13 Buick.  Hopefully they are on the way.  I did order 5, just in case so I would have a matching spare.

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 Brian:

 Their price is up about $50 over what they charged me several years ago. I had the reflectors done for the 1925 Master as well. But what has not gone up.

 They still do quality work. I am very pleased. I wanted to get the UVIRA process but that still required to have the reflectors nickel plated first which other platers quoted me $175 for just that operation. Then shipping to the west coast. Whereas Mance had to re-plate the nickel before the finish silver plate all in one shop. Also, the consideration of having several shops handling things and possible shipping problems. I think the finish will outlast my lifetime.

 As of yet I have not changed out the original reflectors on the Master they are still very nice only showing a trace of the silvering wearing thru. I had an extra set of lights and thought to have them done while the service was still available.DSCF8205.JPG.1bf2c18ac2363dc7d813c8e7149c970d.JPG

The photo shows reflections of yellow green foliage from across the street not polished through to brass condition.

 

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Baby gets a new pair of shoes!!  I spent the day cleaning and assembling brakes on my 32-56S.It's been 12 years since I did the brakes on my 32-58.  I got about half way today.  I hope to finish brake assembly tomorrow and still have all the linkage get repairs and installed.  

20220517_160329_1280x960.jpg

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On 5/16/2022 at 8:57 PM, Brian_Heil said:

May I ask what they charged and are you happy with the result?  Thx!

 

Daniel Mance said

 

"We stripped them all the way down to bare steel, then polished out the pits and scratches the best we could, copper plated, a quick coat of nickel, another coat of copper, then silver."

 

So that means it's a whole new plating, not just a new coat of silver over the old layers. So yeah, I'm happy.

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I disassembled the trunk of my '38 in order to raise the luggage shelf about 3/8" in order to better fit the spare tire which was a very tight fit.  Now much easier to install or remove the spare tire.  Aside from fabricating the plywood shim strips, only minor trimming of the front luggage board was required.

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I received four new tires for my 1915 Mclaughlin touring car.  Got hem from a friend in NY state who bought them for a car but then sold the car and retained the tires for me.  I bought them from this fellow and through the good graces of RM Restorations they were delivered to my house.  As they say in TV " I love it when a plan comes together."  Thanks, Gary

 

 

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DSC_5849.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

I removed the oil pan to check the bearing clearances and to change the rod bolts and remove the castellated nut and install locking nuts.  Buick supplied this 165 Cu inch engine from 1908 until 1915 and the oil pan is a work of art in foundry craft.  Our next event for the 1915 McLaughlin is Cars and Coffee at RM/Sothebys on June 11th.

 

Regards, Gary

 

DSC_5911.JPG

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Minor adaptations to my 1925. Replaced the carb body with one that I had fitted with a newly machined (non swelling) venturi block.

DSC00476.JPG.f479083eacc4a732828dd31bdc7fff5b.JPG  DSC00474.JPG.7f75104bb690e5483e53fcf94c0b13e7.JPG

When transfering, the heat blocking off gasket I had made between the carb and riser was holding about a cupfull of gasoline in the riser. I replaced the leaky heat riser with a better unit which was drilled slightly differently from what was there moving everything forward 1/8". Also the other carb body may have also been machined differently. I had to refit the heat bypass tube and well as make an adjustment pin for the choke rod. It was now barely holding on a thread or 2 and keeping the choke butterfly slightly closed.

DSC00489.JPG.8602c26d0cd8769d654b111d47619dfa.JPG

Showing where the old pin was holding the choke.

I turned up a new pin double the original diameter, drilled and tapped so the choke now opens fully to the stop.

DSC00492.JPG.a2fac40da901767abb8ef8abd0ece6fd.JPGNow I have about 4 turns to secure to the choke lever and the choke butterfly is now fully open to its stop.

DSC00491.JPG.2f391838cf6c3085b25105b3f8e6a0fe.JPG

 The other option was to be working under the dashboard to remove the choke rod from the dash heat plate and fabricate a new rod about 1" longer. It was cooler in my basement at the lathe!

 While that was apart I saw that the exhaust damper was now seized up. I had it set up in the fully open position as I had all other heat blocked from the carb. The heat system was disabled around the carb. Also the damper to actuating rod lever was left loose. Well that is what now is locked up. I did not feel like pulling the damper assembly to free up so I made a new brass lever pin making a hole larger than the 8-32 threaded rod so it could slide. The rod moves in linear motion depending on the throttle setting between 13/16-1 1/2".

DSC00493.JPG.90e5eb6ed0582c3894ba02a4d75667ad.JPG 

So at least things LOOK correct.

DSC00494.JPG.14248dd5c3239649778a579f4a2c3090.JPG

 

 

 

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17 minutes ago, Terry Wiegand said:

Larry,

 

Were you able to find a source for the kingpins?

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

 

Not yet.  I am going to use the old ones and see for the time being if I can rotate them some.  I will look for replacements after I get done with the tour this month.

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I had a machinist make me two new king pins for my 1913.  I also outfitted the hubs with modern roller bearings so no more death wobble.  It was frightening when it would begin and the only solution I found was to hammer the brakes to regain control.  Life is short and it's only money.

 

Regards, Gary 

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I am currently finishing the restoration of  my 20-K45 and had it out for a drive last week.   Noticed that the rocker arms didn't seem to be oiling like I thought they should.   So,  I removed them and started the discovery process.   The old felts inside the main tube were less than junk and the felts in the rocker arms themselves were hard and dry.   Cleaned everything up and opened up the oil passages from the main tubes to the arms and installed new felts.   I was able to find drive in 1/2" cup inserts but am at a loss to where to find the 1/4"  cups needed to block off the passage ways at the outside of the rocker arms.   Anyone have any ideas  where I can find drive in 1/4" cup inserts?

20220604_090922.jpg

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Found another 50 ~ 70 horsepower in my '38 Century without N2O or a supercharger.  Just had to re-adjust the accelerator linkage to actually provide WOT with the pedal at the floor...  ;)

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Freed up and pulled the last of 12 stuck valve cages for cleaning from my 1921 model 46.  Over 6 weeks of soaking this last stuck one in Marvel Mystery oil to get it free.  What a relief.  I may get this engine apart and cleaned up after all.

20220605_192903.jpg

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Registered by email for the Old Car Festival at Greenfield Village the weekend after Labour Day.  We have not been able to attend with the Buick since 2019 because the border restrictions in place.  It will be great to see the fellas again.

 

Gary

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Took it for a nice ride to the beach last night , now gonna take it for a another trip then change the oil and filter . 

533FCEC4-3703-429A-9662-038AB9E9A3FC.jpeg

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Rebuilding the rear brake shaft assemblies for my 1925 Master Touring.

DSC00534.JPG.713c07fbdf9e7582839c8dbe0d1fd071.JPG

 Turned the worn shaft ends undersized and made steel press fit bushings.Total wear was over .040. Then turned down to .750 size. The shaft suport block was bored out and I made brass bushings and then drilled for the grease hole.

DSC00537.JPG.7ad313a240a10f539bd0ada725baf867.JPG  DSC00538.JPG.50882daeb91de25d7953cd094c7db537.JPG

The return spring was broken. I sourced another and used some stainless steel shim stock to give a bit more protection where the spring had worn through the shaft.

DSC00535.JPG.4b88ba98d7e51d5added13797ab58742.JPG

 

 

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On 6/2/2022 at 10:11 AM, dibarlaw said:

Minor adaptations to my 1925. Replaced the carb body with one that I had fitted with a newly machined (non swelling) venturi block.

DSC00476.JPG.f479083eacc4a732828dd31bdc7fff5b.JPG  DSC00474.JPG.7f75104bb690e5483e53fcf94c0b13e7.JPG

When transfering, the heat blocking off gasket I had made between the carb and riser was holding about a cupfull of gasoline in the riser. I replaced the leaky heat riser with a better unit which was drilled slightly differently from what was there moving everything forward 1/8". Also the other carb body may have also been machined differently. I had to refit the heat bypass tube and well as make an adjustment pin for the choke rod. It was now barely holding on a thread or 2 and keeping the choke butterfly slightly closed.

DSC00489.JPG.8602c26d0cd8769d654b111d47619dfa.JPG

Showing where the old pin was holding the choke.

I turned up a new pin double the original diameter, drilled and tapped so the choke now opens fully to the stop.

DSC00492.JPG.a2fac40da901767abb8ef8abd0ece6fd.JPGNow I have about 4 turns to secure to the choke lever and the choke butterfly is now fully open to its stop.

DSC00491.JPG.2f391838cf6c3085b25105b3f8e6a0fe.JPG

 The other option was to be working under the dashboard to remove the choke rod from the dash heat plate and fabricate a new rod about 1" longer. It was cooler in my basement at the lathe!

 While that was apart I saw that the exhaust damper was now seized up. I had it set up in the fully open position as I had all other heat blocked from the carb. The heat system was disabled around the carb. Also the damper to actuating rod lever was left loose. Well that is what now is locked up. I did not feel like pulling the damper assembly to free up so I made a new brass lever pin making a hole larger than the 8-32 threaded rod so it could slide. The rod moves in linear motion depending on the throttle setting between 13/16-1 1/2".

DSC00493.JPG.90e5eb6ed0582c3894ba02a4d75667ad.JPG 

So at least things LOOK correct.

DSC00494.JPG.14248dd5c3239649778a579f4a2c3090.JPG

 

 

 

Nice work!

I'll be very interested to hear your results with the new venturi block...

Edited by Lahti35 (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Drove the '38 Century to Cooperstown, NY to meet my daughter's family at the Farmer's Museum.  Most people go there to see the Baseball Hall of Fame and Doubleday Field, however, the Farmer's museum is excellent and shouldn't be missed when you're there.  ;)

 

image.png.9b8426c65d3f875763ab55bfc21e4c

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After months of welding up tears, rust out, hammering and shrinking away dents in the sheetmetal, the body was prepped and primed.   Today I re-assembled the body on the wood frame and will resume work on the wood.  I made a lot of short cuts when first assembling the wood that allowed me to keep working even though some parts did not fit up properly.  Like where the body steps up in the rear fender well and the lower wood sill follows that step.  I didn't want to have to take the rear tub off to trim a little more and repeat a dozen times before getting it right, so I just cut a big relief around that area.  The door wood took around 15 iterations to figure out the corner joint compound tenon angles so the door would shut evenly top and bottom, and I was using scrap 2x4 lumber for the horizontal rails.  Now I will have to glue up some thicker pieces and finish figuring out the remainder of the details.  It's all fun !

Kevin 

body in prime.jpg

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On 6/6/2022 at 9:51 AM, IFDPete said:

Freed up and pulled the last of 12 stuck valve cages for cleaning from my 1921 model 46.  Over 6 weeks of soaking this last stuck one in Marvel Mystery oil to get it free.  What a relief.  I may get this engine apart and cleaned up after all.

20220605_192903.jpg

 

 

I got my tools back I hope they came in handy. That's what this club is for, tool lending.

 

 

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