1963 project

[protrash63]

Hey everyone!  Drug home a 63 and in doing searches kept getting references to this site and therefore joined. This car will be toyed with in between other projects and I have just started cleaning up things...3 bags of garbage yanked out so far.  This car was last registered in AZ in 1993 and has been sitting in the desert for a while....  thought you all mite like to see a nice trunk floor. Unbelievable!

[Turbinator]

That is nice. Many members have had experirnce with trunk kits, tail lights, and leaks. So this site has plenty of information on those three items. best of luck on your project.

 turbinate

[protrash63]

14 minutes ago, Turbinator said:

That is nice. Many members have had experirnce with trunk kits, tail lights, and leaks. So this site has plenty of information on those three items. best of luck on your project.

 turbinate

Thanks T.... I never seem to find stuff like this although the car has some other large obstacles to overcome such as a stuck engine and trans with the stinkiest fluid Ive ever smelled. lol

[XframeFX]

Impressive. There's that notorious rear window leak that damages the corners of the parcel shelf and eventually rusts a portion of the window cavity, even in dry climates.

Your image shows that 1963 Riviera's have body colour in the trunk.

 

My garaged '63 was parked overnight in my driveway this past weekend. A rain storm ensued and thought good, wash off that garage dust. Not only was my new original trunk liner wet, the pockets on either side of the license plate/gas filler was full! Had to pull the plugs to drain.

 

Welcome to the ROA Forum. Another Rivera in this mix! Post more images!

[RIVNIK]

Must've taken some elbow grease to remove that surface rust. Look what it did to a brand new wire brush!

[Seafoam65]

That trunk floor is amazing especially considering the condition of the trunk weatherstripping in the photo.

[protrash63]

15 hours ago, RIVNIK said:

Must've taken some elbow grease to remove that surface rust. Look what it did to a brand new wire brush!

Hahahaha!!!  I actually cleaned up the trunk in about 30 minutes...Ive had that wire brush for 20 years now...cant believe its still going.

[protrash63]

21 hours ago, XframeFX said:

Impressive. There's that notorious rear window leak that damages the corners of the parcel shelf and eventually rusts a portion of the window cavity, even in dry climates.

Your image shows that 1963 Riviera's have body colour in the trunk.

 

My garaged '63 was parked overnight in my driveway this past weekend. A rain storm ensued and thought good, wash off that garage dust. Not only was my new original trunk liner wet, the pockets on either side of the license plate/gas filler was full! Had to pull the plugs to drain.

 

Welcome to the ROA Forum. Another Rivera in this mix! Post more images!

 Sure does have paint.......'D' silver cloud. The car has never been painted as far as I can tell....posted a pic in the intro section but here it is in my shop now. So faded that it looks like primer. May have had a door skin on the pass side...not sure.

Edited August 13, 2021 by protrash63 (see edit history)

[XframeFX]

Not too shabby! An excellent project car that doesn't need much on the body.

As for rebuilding the Nailhead, I suggest getting familiar with it first and perhaps seek out nailhead resources for machining, forged pistons, roller timing chain and no exhaust valve seat inserts!

[protrash63]

2 minutes ago, XframeFX said:

Not too shabby! An excellent project car that doesn't need much on the body.

As for rebuilding the Nailhead, I suggest getting familiar with it first and perhaps seek out nailhead resources for machining, forged pistons, roller timing chain and no exhaust valve seat inserts!

Thanks!  I have been looking at Rivs for the last year and and have passed on quite a few for different reasons. I went and looked at this and it is basically complete, although pretty crispy.  AC car with manual windows and silver interior. I think Im going to start from the bottom up and do suspension stuff first while slowly looking at the mechanical stuff. Engine is soaking with PB blaster, trans fluid, and Marvel mystery oil. 

[protrash63]

Ok, finally got this pic to download this morning.....here is the stuck boat anchor under the hood!😄 Cleaning out the trunk I found many gaskets and oil etc....Ive also read that the 63 401's were painted silver and black.  Im wondering if someone was working on or maintaining this engine as there is rtv on the water pump cover. Appears to have new valve cover gaskets..''and the spark plugs had blue paint on them. Most people dont paint dead engines, lol.  Since the pic I have sprayed carb cleaner and found the intake is red underneath...also the trans has red overspray on the bellhousing portiion.  Would these be clues to anything about an engine swap in the past? Please chime in if you have an idea. As stated before, Im going to focus on the suspension items first and slowly decipher what the story is on the drive train.  Thanks for checking in!!

[XframeFX]

Yes, should be silver, 1963 only. Block stamping just ahead of the valley pan should have the same VIN as on the cowl. Engine code will be there too, up0side-down. J for 1963 and T for 401

I'm a sucker for projects that are as complete as yours. Having AC is a Big Plus.

You have a Rochester 4GC 4BBL. The AFB is more common and better supported.

When undoing the Pwr Brake tube on the brass Teein the intake, be sure to hold the Tee. I always did until I wanted to remove the left side valve cover in haste. I snapped that Tee off. Non AC cars have an elbow there and those can be sourced, the Tee, not.

Can you post the Cowl Tag here?

[protrash63]

5 hours ago, XframeFX said:

Yes, should be silver, 1963 only. Block stamping just ahead of the valley pan should have the same VIN as on the cowl. Engine code will be there too, up0side-down. J for 1963 and T for 401

I'm a sucker for projects that are as complete as yours. Having AC is a Big Plus.

You have a Rochester 4GC 4BBL. The AFB is more common and better supported.

When undoing the Pwr Brake tube on the brass Teein the intake, be sure to hold the Tee. I always did until I wanted to remove the left side valve cover in haste. I snapped that Tee off. Non AC cars have an elbow there and those can be sourced, the Tee, not.

Can you post the Cowl Tag here?

  Out in the shop today as Im about to do suspension work on the 64 Suburban in the background of the car pic above. The engine number matches the vin tag, so its original. Musta been painted somewhere along the line. I think I have a pic of the cowl tag, I know its 'D' paint code with '728' trim code.  Also has the remote manual pass mirror. Pretty plain besides the AC system.

[protrash63]

Cowl tag. I dont know how to blow this up!

Edited August 14, 2021 by protrash63 (see edit history)

[RivNut]

03B - built the 2nd week of March

 

FB - Fisher Body number out of 40,000 built

 

728 - silver leather

 

DD - Silver cloud paint

 

D - provisions for a radio

 

S7 - remote driver’s  side mirror

 

I (not 1) 6 - tinted glass

 

N2 - air conditioning.

 

To cool the car properly with an a/c condenser in front of the radiator, your car needs a fan shroud.  A remote passenger’s side mirror would be a dealer or previous owner’s addition. No a/c belts could mean a frozen compressor.

 

Engine would have been painted silver with a red air cleaner in 1963.  Google images is a really good source for pictures of properly restored engine compartments.

 

 

 

[protrash63]

Thanks RivNut!  I saw many of your posts googling info before joining this forum.  The car had the red air cleaner but it disappeared before I got to it. The shroud was in the trunk in about 10 pieces and is now gone...but cooling wont be an issue as this puppy is stuck solid.  Found TA Performance is about a 30 minute drive from my house...they might be helping revive this thing at some point.

 

Suspension first!  ......and sorting out other little things as I see fit.  The radio is missing, btw.

 

Thanks for the info guys!

Edited August 14, 2021 by protrash63 (see edit history)

[RivNut]

To help the cooling system, if you're not into getting the A/C up and running, would be to pull the condenser from in front of the radiator. Non A/C cars did not have a shroud, only a small plate to keep your fingers and neck tie out of the fan.

[1965rivgs]

9 hours ago, protrash63 said:

Thanks RivNut!  I saw many of your posts googling info before joining this forum.  The car had the red air cleaner but it disappeared before I got to it. The shroud was in the trunk in about 10 pieces and is now gone...but cooling wont be an issue as this puppy is stuck solid.  Found TA Performance is about a 30 minute drive from my house...they might be helping revive this thing at some point.

 

Suspension first!  ......and sorting out other little things as I see fit.  The radio is missing, btw.

 

Thanks for the info guys!

  I would suggest sorting out the drive train before moving on to other systems...if you find your motor is not a good core, and knowing rebuilding the Dynaflow will be expensive, that would open up the possibility for you to obtain another engine/trans to convert your drive train to a Turbo 400 or modern overdrive trans which might influence your overall direction and chassis build.

Tom

[protrash63]

2 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:

  I would suggest sorting out the drive train before moving on to other systems...if you find your motor is not a good core, and knowing rebuilding the Dynaflow will be expensive, that would open up the possibility for you to obtain another engine/trans to convert your drive train to a Turbo 400 or modern overdrive trans which might influence your overall direction and chassis build.

Tom

 Well Tom, thats a good idea...right now those pistons are floating in a soup of trans fluid, PB blaster, and Marvel mystery oil....Ive got time, too! This isnt my first rodeo and I have a 66 El camino with a 2004R in it which is getting yanked at some point for a 396/muncie combo. I've seen the adapters to add a different trans and Im not a purist by any stretch.

 

Eventually I will tear it apart and see whats going on.

[protrash63]

10 hours ago, RivNut said:

To help the cooling system, if you're not into getting the A/C up and running, would be to pull the condenser from in front of the radiator. Non A/C cars did not have a shroud, only a small plate to keep your fingers and neck tie out of the fan.

  Well, if this goes the way my last couple vehicles have gone it will get electric fans. I will attempt to get the AC going as well. I saw that new cables are available.

[TexRiv_63]

I'm subscribed. Your engine compartment looks very complete and original, the missing fan shroud can be easily obtained as a reproduction. Here are some pics from my 63, I converted the A/C to Vintage Air.

[protrash63]

Wow!  TexRiv, that really cleans up the power barn!!  I already checked in to compressors and I know that there is a nice aftermarket A6.  Does that Sanden fit the original AC bracket?

 

Subscribed to this thread?  Well Im gonna throw out a spoiler; Ill probably disappoint some by choices I make but Im a hot rod DIY kinda person and thats how its gonna be!😅 Some of the car will be restored and other parts will be improved upon.

Edited August 14, 2021 by protrash63 (see edit history)

[protrash63]

Well, on another note... I feel a shop should be a colorful place to immerse yourself in whatever compels oneself...so I did some decorating today 

[protrash63]

......oh yeah, on another note.  If you want to feel superior and outpace the people next door get a hold of one of these!!!!!  3/4 drive Matco extension ratchet.  Somebodys gonna get their eye put out!! No, Im not gonna break the bolt, so relax. 

[EmTee]

Try one of these...

 

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-23800-Flywheel-Turner/dp/B000FN7JE2/ref=asc_df_B000FN7JE2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312158556601&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15395931621260854162&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1023225&hvtargid=pla-449881516491&psc=1

 

[protrash63]

1 hour ago, EmTee said:

Try one of these...

 

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-23800-Flywheel-Turner/dp/B000FN7JE2/ref=asc_df_B000FN7JE2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312158556601&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15395931621260854162&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1023225&hvtargid=pla-449881516491&psc=1

 

I havent looked at the ring gear/trans area enough to know if I can access  the flexplate(?) on the Dyna. 

Edited August 15, 2021 by protrash63 (see edit history)

[RivNut]

You can get a pry bar through the opening for the starter motor or drop the Dynaflow’s dust cover.  The starter ring gear on a Dynafkplow is different. It’s not on the flex plate; rather it’s weld to the torque converter. Hence the need for a long nose on the starter motor - gotta reach in there a ways.

[TexRiv_63]

16 hours ago, protrash63 said:

Wow!  TexRiv, that really cleans up the power barn!!  I already checked in to compressors and I know that there is a nice aftermarket A6.  Does that Sanden fit the original AC bracket?

 

The Sanden bolts right up to the front bracket with a little filing and washer spacing. You need to make a simple rear bracket attached to a head bolt.

[protrash63]

4 hours ago, TexRiv_63 said:

The Sanden bolts right up to the front bracket with a little filing and washer spacing. You need to make a simple rear bracket attached to a head bolt.

Sweet!  Im quite a ways out from this but good to know...Thanks.

[XframeFX]

FYI, there's also Alan Grove fab'ing brackets for the Sanden SD5H14 508 Compressor

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/401_425_Buick.htm

[Bill Stoneberg]

I also changed to vintage air in my 64 Riv. Cleans up the compartment nicely.  It goes in and you can’t even tell it’s there. 
I am doing the same (and so much more) to my 60 Electra.

[protrash63]

 Well, been working quite a lot lately but put in some quality time lately wrenching on my various projects. Rebuilt the front suspension on my 64 Suburban with new control arms and tie rods, SSBC rotors and yet to be installed Wilwood twin puck calipers...ran outta gas on the calipers after wrestling the suspension parts.

 

So, in between the previously mentioned work I keep tearing into little things on the Riviera. Dove into the engine as it was really bugging me and I wanted to find out whats going on and , YEP, we found it!!

LOL!!!  

 

Feel free to speculate what causes this!! 

Edited September 1, 2021 by protrash63 (see edit history)

[protrash63]

  So we will leave todays episode here.  Waiting on backordered parts.....

[protrash63]

........matter of fact, I was so enthralled with the broken cam I didnt see the bent pushrod until I posted the picture.

[gungeey]

threw a rod?

 

EDIT: Awful clean in there. looks like the block was apart not to long before it busted, like it was fired up and sortly after grenaded.

Edited September 2, 2021 by gungeey (see edit history)

[telriv]

protrash63,

 

    I am hoping like the dickens my thoughts on this are wrong.  Usually that happens when a rod breaks in half.  The piece still attached to the crank spinning around comes up & takes out the oil galley that supplies engine oil to the rest of the engine. When it does this it's what usually breaks the cam.  Try to get those broken pieces out, or at least try to move them so that you can seedown there & you will find out for sure.  For most/many this is not repairable.  I know of three people who stroked their "Nail"  3/4" & had to remove the galley & replaced it by welding, I believe, a piece of black pipe to make the nec. clearance for the rods & rod bolts.  NOT for the faint of heart.  Otherwise time for another block IF my feelings are correct.

[protrash63]

1 hour ago, gungeey said:

threw a rod?

 

EDIT: Awful clean in there. looks like the block was apart not to long before it busted, like it was fired up and sortly after grenaded.

I agree.

[protrash63]

58 minutes ago, telriv said:

protrash63,

 

    I am hoping like the dickens my thoughts on this are wrong.  Usually that happens when a rod breaks in half.  The piece still attached to the crank spinning around comes up & takes out the oil galley that supplies engine oil to the rest of the engine. When it does this it's what usually breaks the cam.  Try to get those broken pieces out, or at least try to move them so that you can seedown there & you will find out for sure.  For most/many this is not repairable.  I know of three people who stroked their "Nail"  3/4" & had to remove the galley & replaced it by welding, I believe, a piece of black pipe to make the nec. clearance for the rods & rod bolts.  NOT for the faint of heart.  Otherwise time for another block IF my feelings are correct.

 Dont like the sounds of that but its where I gave up this afternoon.  I was hoping that the timing chain broke. That cam is jammed in there pretty well with the valve springs still pushing down on it. I'll slowly start pulling the heads off.  I'll update when I get to screwing around with it at some point.

Edited September 2, 2021 by protrash63 (see edit history)

[RivNut]

Try taking the rocker shafts off first. You can get the push rods out, then the lifters.  Take out the distributor. Then try removing the pieces of the cam. Don’t remove the heads until it’s a last resort.

[protrash63]

8 minutes ago, RivNut said:

Try taking the rocker shafts off first. You can get the push rods out, then the lifters.  Take out the distributor. Then try removing the pieces of the cam. Don’t remove the heads until it’s a last resort.

 

Well, Telriv got my curiosity up and I went out and looked again. As I mentioned I was mezmorized by the broken cam. Pried out a cam piece near the journal and sure enough there is a rod under there with the cap gone and bearing pieces in the pan. In Buick speak, I think its #3 cylinder( second back on the pass side) is blown out due to the rod going on a joy ride thru whatever it came in contact. Looks like Ill be needing a block. Good thing I dont have to drive it to work tomorrow!!  lol