Considering a '64 - Things to Look For?

[Malo48]

Hello all,

 

I was recently enamored with a '64 Riv and am considering purchasing it.  I've never owned one before (more of a '40s-early '50s guy) and am wondering what some of the items are to look for and questions to ask as part of my due diligence. 

Unfortunately it's being sold far from my location so I would have to rely on photos before making the decision to travel to see and drive it. Photos that I've seen look to me like it's in very nice driver condition with high originality.

 

Thanks in advance!

[awk409ak]

Malo48,

My opinion.  I just bought my 64 May 2019, and had never owned or even thought of owning a Riviera, but I did read a lot about them before I bought the one I have.  Obviously you would want a highly optioned car.  425, dual quads engine (Super Wildcat), AC, deluxe interior, all windows tint, truck release, these are just some of the option.  Preferably number matching. 

Are you looking for a turnkey car or are you planning to restore one.  I was not looking to restore, but want one that was in pretty good condition.  

 

This is just a start, others will add their opinions I'm sure.

 

Art

[gungeey]

I would talk/ email the owner a lot pictures etc..

 

if that phase panned out I would pay a nonconflicted 3rd party to go see the car/drive if possible. Gonna cost 250-400 bucks. They will give you the unglorified version with lots of pictures. In the end, nobody is as careful with my money as I am, As always, buyer beware.

 

Other than their beautiful looks these cars are not monumentally different from any other collectible car out there. No big secrets.

 

How have you been in the hobby all this time with 30s/40s cars and not noticed a Riviera LOL.

[Pat Curran]

Make sure the heater works.  Replacing the heater core in a first generation Riviera is a royal pain!

[RivNut]

Offer to pay the seller's return flight home if he'll drive the car to you.  It's his car and any repairs are his responsibility until you exchange payment for title upon arrival and inspection. 

[J3Studio]

1 hour ago, RivNut said:

Offer to pay the seller's return flight home if he'll drive the car to you.  It's his car and any repairs are his responsibility until you exchange payment for title upon arrival and inspection. 

 

Interesting. Have you ever actually done this?

[J3Studio]

2 hours ago, gungeey said:

if that phase panned out I would pay a nonconflicted 3rd party to go see the car/drive if possible. Gonna cost 250-400 bucks. They will give you the unglorified version with lots of pictures. In the end, nobody is as careful with my money as I am, As always, buyer beware.

 

Plus one hundred—assessment services are worth their weight in gold.

[RivNut]

33 minutes ago, J3Studio said:

 

Interesting. Have you ever actually done this?

I offered to do it on a car that I found in Memphis once, but the guy balked so quickly that I dropped it right away. From his description it should have been roadworthy enough to drive cross country.  He told me all sorts of "good" things about it.  He would have had all the time in the world for me to come down there. But when I offered to fly him back after driving it to me, all of a sudden he had way too many things to do. I think if he would have been okay with it, I would have flown down and driven it back. But based on his response, I figured there was something wrong. I just used it as a ploy to see how much he was being up front about the car.

Edited January 16, 2021 by RivNut (see edit history)

[J3Studio]

13 minutes ago, RivNut said:

I offered to do it on a car that I found in Memphis once, but the guy balked so quickly that I dropped it right away. From his description it should have been roadworthy enough to drive cross country.  He told me all sorts of "good" things about it.  He would have had all the time in the world for me to come down there. But when I offered to fly him back after driving it to me, all of a sudden he had way too many things to do. I think if he would have been okay with it, I would have flown down and driven it back. But based on his response, I figured there was something wrong. I just used it as a ploy to see how much he was being up front about the car.

 

Thank you, Ed. I've never been in quite that same situation, but I welcome the option.

[awk409ak]

All,

Again bought mine in 2019.  Found it in California, I live in Delaware.  Went out early out of BWI, got to Cal around noon or 1-ish drove it some, took pictures flew back that night.  Called the owner the next day bought it and had it shipped to Delaware.  My point is, I would not trust anyone to appraise it without seeing it with my own eyes.  And be aware of scams, I ran into a lot of them during the looking process.

 

Art

[60FlatTop]

I have had requests to deliver cars I had 100 to 200 miles. I wouldn't even consider it. That puts the seller in too much of a bargaining position for the buyer.

 

And if anyone thinks a seller can't be trusted, try experiencing what buyers are like. Especially if they have a friend along to witness the purchase. I have seen two gemokes roll out of car and go through the most obvious scripted and rehearsed gyrations imaginable. Had to use a push broom to get the testosterone out of the driveway.

 

If you want a nice Riviera the best thing to do is join the BCA or Riviera club prior to selecting the car. Then use all the resources of the club to buy the best car you can. Lacking that you can go through the club rosters and find an owner of a similar car to look one over for you. I have had great luck doing that, a couple hundred bucks well spent.

 

Very few cars are not known by the local, sometimes national marque guys, the club will steer you right. Do it on your own and you show up at your first show, someone will say "Oh, you bought THAT car".

Edited January 16, 2021 by 60FlatTop (see edit history)

[gungeey]

24 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

I have had requests to deliver cars I had 100 to 200 miles. I wouldn't even consider it. That puts the seller in too much of a bargaining position for the buyer.

 

And if anyone thinks a seller can't be trusted, try experiencing what buyers are like. Especially if they have a friend along to witness the purchase. I have seen two gemokes roll out of car and go through the most obvious scripted and rehearsed gyrations imaginable. Had to use a push broom to get the testosterone out of the driveway.

 

If you want a nice Riviera the best thing to do is join the BCA or Riviera club prior to selecting the car. Then use all the resources of the club to buy the best car you can. Lacking that you can go through the club rosters and find an owner of a similar car to look one over for you. I have had great luck doing that, a couple hundred bucks well spent.

 

Very few cars are not know by the local, sometimes national marque guys, the club will steer you right. Do it on your own and you show up at your first show, someone will say "Oh, you bought THAT car".

 

 

BUYERS ARE LIARS

Edited January 16, 2021 by gungeey (see edit history)

[JZRIV]

It would be wise to post some pics of the car here where very experienced eyes can pick up on the slightest visual concerns. 

Edited January 16, 2021 by JZRIV (see edit history)

[Malo48]

Thanks all for the discussion!

 

This is the car:

https://www.classicautomall.com/vehicles/1741/1964-buick-riviera

 

I had a fantastic conversation last night and learned a lot about the goods and bads of this one as well as the Riviera line in general.  Quite an education. 

[cjp69]

Here is a nice looking 64.

 

https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/d/littlerock-1964-buick-riviera/7263628056.html

 

 

[gungeey]

51 minutes ago, Malo48 said:

Thanks all for the discussion!

 

This is the car:

https://www.classicautomall.com/vehicles/1741/1964-buick-riviera

 

I had a fantastic conversation last night and learned a lot about the goods and bads of this one as well as the Riviera line in general.  Quite an education. 

 

Nice Color...official Buick maroon lol

Obviously as stated amateur's paint job,

I think the front end got a whack if you notice the hood alignment and the grill lines, which should be even.

Fan shroud bottom has a cutout in it, maybe from the whack or for some reason

If I were there I would investigate the radiator (looks end of life)...recore=800

 

These are distractions, not major deductions...EVERY car has some scars/imperfections/stories. Even a concourse car has some defect.

Some upgrades/liberties:

Valve covers

underhood soundproofing "straps"

whacky rear end add ons

later model buick wheels

 

I guess if you like it and think the price is fair...go for it

depends on your urgency, you can do better, yoj can do worse.... Steve...good luck

Edited January 18, 2021 by gungeey
add more (see edit history)

[awk409ak]

1 hour ago, Malo48 said:

Thanks all for the discussion!

 

This is the car:

https://www.classicautomall.com/vehicles/1741/1964-buick-riviera

 

I had a fantastic conversation last night and learned a lot about the goods and bads of this one as well as the Riviera line in general.  Quite an education. 

Hi,

You have not mention what your plans are.  Do you want something to restore or something that is kind of already turnkey ready?

I myself always try evaluate cars on there salability.  If I had to sell it right away.  Does it have highly thought after options.  Have you checked the trim tag plate for some of the options.  Check engine number to see if it is the original engine (should match the Vin).  The paint, new paint is 10K+.  Just a few comments.

 

Now, if it was me, I will be honest, I think you could do better.  I for one would pay a little more and get a better looking car, MHO. It needs a lot of work.  MO again, not fond of the Fawn Cloth interior. I prefer the vinyl, easier to clean, but again that is me.

 

Art

[JZRIV]

8 hours ago, Malo48 said:

Thanks all for the discussion!

 

This is the car:

https://www.classicautomall.com/vehicles/1741/1964-buick-riviera

 

I had a fantastic conversation last night and learned a lot about the goods and bads of this one as well as the Riviera line in general.  Quite an education. 

The paint on this car is horrible. When paying that much, you want better paint especially if a repaint. If its original paint some defects are expected but a repaint like this is much worse than worn original paint in my opinion. The exhaust system is horrible as well. I'd stay away from that car. Often there is a reason some cars end up at a specialty dealer. Great cars will sell themselves without the need for fancy marketing. I do commend this dealer for providing very good detail pics.  

[awk409ak]

14 hours ago, JZRIV said:

The paint on this car is horrible. When paying that much, you want better paint especially if a repaint. If its original paint some defects are expected but a repaint like this is much worse than worn original paint in my opinion. The exhaust system is horrible as well. I'd stay away from that car. Often there is a reason some cars end up at a specialty dealer. Great cars will sell themselves without the need for fancy marketing. I do commend this dealer for providing very good detail pics.  

Malo,

JZRIV said it it better than I did.  I was trying to be milder in my appraisal of the car.  Paint is a high dollar job.  I and most people can live with some mechanical stuff that they can do themselves, but unless you're a body guy, paint is a different story.  I'd pass, keep looking.

Art  

[60FlatTop]

That is a very typical car. And I think the journalistic value is going unnoticed.

 

I would recommend it as the central display here: https://www.petersen.org/about

 

At the Petersen Publishing Museum. It resonates every "How to" and magazine project car I have seen since Popular Hot Rodding started the Project X '57 Chevy.

How to, 5 Tips, 10 Tips. The articles came off the screen at me.

 

I would say the price is a little elevated to pay for the mall and the marketing. What the owner will end up with after the sale would probably be a nice spot to be for a running, driving car that needs paint and some ongoing work.

 

Without disassembling that car a person could go over it with some #320, fix the really bad spots, squirt it, and end up with a dramatically different car. Maybe $3500-5000 added, especially if they were buying a keeper. I wouldn't rule it out completely. Twenty years down the road it will be the one the "experts" walked on.

 

Offer 15, meet in the middle and plan on spending another $7500. I could see it.

Edited January 19, 2021 by 60FlatTop (see edit history)

[1965rivgs]

1 hour ago, 60FlatTop said:

That is a very typical car. And I think the journalistic value is going unnoticed.

 

I would recommend it as the central display here: https://www.petersen.org/about

 

At the Petersen Publishing Museum. It resonates every "How to" and magazine project car I have seen sine Popular Hot Rodding started the Project X '57 Chevy.

How to, 5 Tips, 10 Tips. The articles came off the screen at me.

 

I would say the price is a little elevated to pay for the mall and the marketing. What the owner will end up with after the sale would probably be a nice spot to be for a running, driving car that needs paint and some ongoing work.

 

Without disassembling that car a person could go over it with some #320, fix the really bad spots, squirt it, and end up with a dramatically different car. Maybe $3500-5000 added, especially if they were buying a keeper. I wouldn't rule it out completely. Twenty years down the road it will be the one the "experts" walked on.

 

Offer 15, meet in the middle and plan on spending another $7500. I could see it.

Hi Bernie,

  I agree with your overall assessment. Everyone has their perspective on purchase price depending on location, etc...in my location prices tend to be higher than rural areas...and even most urban areas. In my opinion the asking price is leaving enough room for finish work assuming the price drops into the upper teens. It`s a shame whoever restored this car didnt invest in a quality refinish, the original qualities of the car makes it seem deserving, but that`s why the car is priced where it is. I`m sure if the finish was high quality the price would be $30K to $32.5K. I`M NOT IMPLYING THAT THIS CAR IS A "STEAL", just that at a decent discount from the asking price, after refinishing, one could have a pretty nice car at a reasonable price without too much restoration work. I`m also assuming there are no major mechanical issues like engine, trans, differential. The interior needs very little, the chrome looks acceptable for a very nice driver, and the mechanical items are very typical, springs, shocks, exhaust, etc. I`m sure the eventual price tag would be in the $30K to $35K range when close to finished but one would have a nice example.

  There are many, many nice original characteristics here and especially the interior. The cloth/vinyl combinations didnt hold up well which leads me to believe the cloth inserts have been replaced with the correct material. Also looks like the lower cushion foams have been replaced with the  "too puffy" look to them. But at least the work has been completed. The little details in the interior screams "a well kept car" to me and hopefully working on the car would reveal some pleasant surprises instead the opposite "lipstick on a pig" scenario. After viewing the interior, I was surprised the original trunk kit is not in place, that is disappointing.

  I`m not a fan of this color combination, although I know alot of folks like the burgundy/fawn-saddle contrast. Personally, I`m fond of Arctic white exterior and champagne/Fawn combo on the first gen cars, so I`d see the terrible finish and in my opinion an undesirable color combo as an opportunity to strike a substantial discount and change the color more to my preference. I think this car could eventually be a nice example at a reasonable to "high-ish" investment, most probably $32 to $35K. In my experience, it`s pretty typical for many who snatch a "bargain" to get buried much deeper.

  I`m not a painter but I`m leaning toward disagreement with your assessment of the finish. My amateur opinion is that most of the issues with lifting and appearance are more than skin deep. I`d expect to be required to strip the refinish and original finish off the car and start from scratch to achieve a high quality look.

  Just my 2 cents,

Tom

[Pat Curran]

1 hour ago, 1965rivgs said:

Hi Bernie,

  I agree with your overall assessment. Everyone has their perspective on purchase price depending on location, etc...in my location prices tend to be higher than rural areas...and even most urban areas. In my opinion the asking price is leaving enough room for finish work assuming the price drops into the upper teens. It`s a shame whoever restored this car didnt invest in a quality refinish, the original qualities of the car makes it seem deserving, but that`s why the car is priced where it is. I`m sure if the finish was high quality the price would be $30K to $32.5K. I`M NOT IMPLYING THAT THIS CAR IS A "STEAL", just that at a decent discount from the asking price, after refinishing, one could have a pretty nice car at a reasonable price without too much restoration work. I`m also assuming there are no major mechanical issues like engine, trans, differential. The interior needs very little, the chrome looks acceptable for a very nice driver, and the mechanical items are very typical, springs, shocks, exhaust, etc. I`m sure the eventual price tag would be in the $30K to $35K range when close to finished but one would have a nice example.

  There are many, many nice original characteristics here and especially the interior. The cloth/vinyl combinations didnt hold up well which leads me to believe the cloth inserts have been replaced with the correct material. Also looks like the lower cushion foams have been replaced with the  "too puffy" look to them. But at least the work has been completed. The little details in the interior screams "a well kept car" to me and hopefully working on the car would reveal some pleasant surprises instead the opposite "lipstick on a pig" scenario. After viewing the interior, I was surprised the original trunk kit is not in place, that is disappointing.

  I`m not a fan of this color combination, although I know alot of folks like the burgundy/fawn-saddle contrast. Personally, I`m fond of Arctic white exterior and champagne/Fawn combo on the first gen cars, so I`d see the terrible finish and in my opinion an undesirable color combo as an opportunity to strike a substantial discount and change the color more to my preference. I think this car could eventually be a nice example at a reasonable to "high-ish" investment, most probably $32 to $35K. In my experience, it`s pretty typical for many who snatch a "bargain" to get buried much deeper.

  I`m not a painter but I`m leaning toward disagreement with your assessment of the finish. My amateur opinion is that most of the issues with lifting and appearance are more than skin deep. I`d expect to be required to strip the refinish and original finish off the car and start from scratch to achieve a high quality look.

  Just my 2 cents,

Tom

Some of the little details that typically are issues with the first generation cars appear to be working or are in good shape like the door jamb switches and glove box door.  The door panels look very good even though the wood veneer has faded.  The veneer isn't lifting and it doesn't look water stained.  The veneer may benefit from a good dose of Old English!  The interior chrome looks to be in great shape as well.

 

[RivNut]

The old shellac finish is what is deteriorating. If you can find a way to remove just the shellac, you can restrain and apply a new poly finish to the original wood.

[Malo48]

Thanks, everyone, for your excellent input and advice.  While I think I'm going to pass on this particular one, you've given me a lot of info that will really help me when I look at another.  I've really become a fan of these and don't know how they escaped my attention for as long as they have.  

[JZRIV]

1 hour ago, Malo48 said:

Thanks, everyone, for your excellent input and advice.  While I think I'm going to pass on this particular one, you've given me a lot of info that will really help me when I look at another.  I've really become a fan of these and don't know how they escaped my attention for as long as they have.  

You're not the first one to make that statement! These Rivs are great driving, well built, well engineered and reliable cars. One of the more common things newcomers to the Riviera world fail to identify prior to buying a car is the limited availability of reproduction parts particularly if someone is accustomed to owning a mainstream classic where you can almost build a car with repop parts. They buy a cheap car thinking they can fix it up for a few bucks and save money vs buying something really nice with little needs and paying more up front.  Costs can really ad up fast even doing the work yourself.

 

Note last line in my signature 🙂

     

[TheTaxMan]

I've really enjoyed this topic as I am also looking for a first gen Riviera in the Northeast.  It was previously mentioned that paint could be a huge expense ($10K+!) and it was noted in the previous post the limited availability of reproduction parts.  What other components can drive the big expenses?  I assume if the engine/carb need to be rebuilt and possibly the interior but are there any other hidden areas i'm not thinking of other than if the body is all rusted?  Thanks for any input.

 

Damon

[telriv]

3 hours ago, TheTaxMan said:

I've really enjoyed this topic as I am also looking for a first gen Riviera in the Northeast.  It was previously mentioned that paint could be a huge expense ($10K+!) and it was noted in the previous post the limited availability of reproduction parts.  What other components can drive the big expenses?  I assume if the engine/carb need to be rebuilt and possibly the interior but are there any other hidden areas i'm not thinking of other than if the body is all rusted?  Thanks for any input.

 

Damon

Damon,

 

    Look the car over very closely.  As mentioned repro parts are few & far between. With some being correct &some supposedlly correct BUT way off & of poor quality.  Although there are some of us who ARE INVOLVED with SOME parts & product updates for a more rewarding driving experience among other things. I have been involved with the design & production of some parts since 1969/1970 as I bought my '64 Riv. new.  A PROPER engine overhaul can cost as little as 4-5K up to 10-12K. These are NOT SBC's. A carb. overhaul $400.00-700.00 depending on needs. So as you can see it CAN get very costly.

    Inspect very closely & ask questions here.

 

Tom T.

[RivNut]

Take some time and get on one of the sites for a Camaro, Chevelle, or Mustang.  Look at everything that's available then try to find the same parts for a Riviera.  Do not use OPGI for comparison.  OPGI may say they have the part, but if it's not on back order, it's probably something that's not close to original but rather something that someone thinks might work.  For examples their dome light switches and package trays. Not even close.  

[JZRIV]

21 hours ago, TheTaxMan said:

I've really enjoyed this topic as I am also looking for a first gen Riviera in the Northeast.  It was previously mentioned that paint could be a huge expense ($10K+!) and it was noted in the previous post the limited availability of reproduction parts.  What other components can drive the big expenses?  I assume if the engine/carb need to be rebuilt and possibly the interior but are there any other hidden areas i'm not thinking of other than if the body is all rusted?  Thanks for any input.

 

Damon

Damon,

$10k for paint on a Riviera won't get you much in the way of quality.  A Mustang maybe, but not a Riviera.  Starting at $15k is more realistic.  Far better to let someone else incur that cost of a paint job and let them lose the money when they go to sell! Sad but true in many cases. And its not just the cost, dealing with body shops can be a notoriously frustrating adventure and many can attest.

 

After my first 25 years buying and fixing Rivs and special interest cars from my region in the northeast US, I finally came to my senses after purchasing a car that spent its life in an arid climate and vowed I would never buy another hobby car that spent time in the rust belt.  Being someone who pays attention to cost of the car hobby both in monetary and my time/labor ,it didn't take long to realize the cost of having a car shipped across the US from a western arid climate is a mere fraction of the cost you will incur when restoring, doing general maintenance, etc on an average car from the rust belt. Having said that, of course there are exceptions. Pampered well cared for cars can be found in the rust belt either transplants from the west or from previous owners that were extreme in their care keeping the car out of the salt and rain.  My point is, consider not limiting your search to the northeast in hopes of avoiding a $1500 transport fee and/or an airline ticket to go view a car. 

50 y/o arid climate cars disassemble like they were just put together compared to the rusty barnacle buckets of the NE.   

[gungeey]

 

100% agree with JZ above. Here are recent findings as fairly savvy, frequent purchaser:

$1900 (local..no shipping) vs 19000 ( with 800 shipping from Las Vegas).  You pick the better deal:

Steve in rust heaven Massachusetts.

[TheTaxMan]

Thank you for all the feedback!  Other than causing mild chest pains when JZRIV mentioned $15K for paint it was really helpful.  I will let you know of more questions as I come closer to pulling the trigger.  We are finishing up an additional 2 car garage in the next two months and I want to make sure I have something to put in it!

[rodneybeauchamp]

Interesting topic. FWIIW I found it very confusing at first what to buy. I knew very little about these Buick’s and had only ever seen one in the flesh prior to purchase ( and the one I saw was many years ago) 

 

I’m in Australia, so not easy to pop down and have a look at one. But I did get to sit in a ‘64 when mine was still on the water.
 

What really helped me when searching was having a copy of the ID plate, engine and option codes. That enabled me to identify what I saw from the dashboard and interior ( A/C, power windows, power vents, power seats, custom interiors etc) plus under the hood  (four note horns, A/C) plus the obvious paint and trim colours (correct colours or not). That is why a photo of the ID and option plate is really valuable.

 

It can also helps identify items that have been added that were not original ( remote trunk release, remote mirrors) and also items that are not easy to see (optional wide rims and tyres, heavy duty springs and shockers, posi traction rear axle) 

 

What helped me is I had a few criteria that the Riviera had to meet as a minimum. Buy the best one you can for the dollars you have available. There are plenty out there and one has your name on it!

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

[TheTaxMan]

1 hour ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Interesting topic. FWIIW I found it very confusing at first what to buy. I knew very little about these Buick’s and had only ever seen one in the flesh prior to purchase ( and the one I saw was many years ago) 

 

I’m in Australia, so not easy to pop down and have a look at one. But I did get to sit in a ‘64 when mine was still on the water.
 

What really helped me when searching was having a copy of the ID plate, engine and option codes. That enabled me to identify what I saw from the dashboard and interior ( A/C, power windows, power vents, power seats, custom interiors etc) plus under the hood  (four note horns, A/C) plus the obvious paint and trim colours (correct colours or not). That is why a photo of the ID and option plate is really valuable.

 

It can also helps identify items that have been added that were not original ( remote trunk release, remote mirrors) and also items that are not easy to see (optional wide rims and tyres, heavy duty springs and shockers, posi traction rear axle) 

 

What helped me is I had a few criteria that the Riviera had to meet as a minimum. Buy the best one you can for the dollars you have available. There are plenty out there and one has your name on it!

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

Great post, Rodney.  This is exactly where I'm at right now.  Trying to find a great car with the money I have and hopefully getting the options I'm interested in (mainly bucket seats, A/C, and a color I like).  Thanks for saying it much more elegantly.

[jsgun]

On 1/26/2021 at 7:38 AM, JZRIV said:

Damon,

$10k for paint on a Riviera won't get you much in the way of quality.  A Mustang maybe, but not a Riviera.  Starting at $15k is more realistic.  Far better to let someone else incur that cost of a paint job and let them lose the money when they go to sell! Sad but true in many cases. And its not just the cost, dealing with body shops can be a notoriously frustrating adventure and many can attest.

 

After my first 25 years buying and fixing Rivs and special interest cars from my region in the northeast US, I finally came to my senses after purchasing a car that spent its life in an arid climate and vowed I would never buy another hobby car that spent time in the rust belt.  Being someone who pays attention to cost of the car hobby both in monetary and my time/labor ,it didn't take long to realize the cost of having a car shipped across the US from a western arid climate is a mere fraction of the cost you will incur when restoring, doing general maintenance, etc on an average car from the rust belt. Having said that, of course there are exceptions. Pampered well cared for cars can be found in the rust belt either transplants from the west or from previous owners that were extreme in their care keeping the car out of the salt and rain.  My point is, consider not limiting your search to the northeast in hopes of avoiding a $1500 transport fee and/or an airline ticket to go view a car. 

50 y/o arid climate cars disassemble like they were just put together compared to the rusty barnacle buckets of the NE.   

I'm from West Virginia, and moved to the high desert of CA. I knew a guy who parted out classic cars, and even ones sitting in the desert for 30+ years were almost spotless. I couldn't believe how solid the metal was. The plastics would be almost destroyed from the heat though. I grew up hearing that the preferred path was to get the car from an arid area, and get the interior from the east. Lots of rust buckets with low miles and nice original interior parts that weren't sunburned.

 

If it wasn't for the windshield and rear window channels, my 64 would be rust free. I suspect I was the first person to take apart several things on the car, and they came apart so incredibly easy. It's been a joy to work on. 

[1965rivgs]

10 hours ago, jsgun said:

I'm from West Virginia, and moved to the high desert of CA. I knew a guy who parted out classic cars, and even ones sitting in the desert for 30+ years were almost spotless. I couldn't believe how solid the metal was. The plastics would be almost destroyed from the heat though. I grew up hearing that the preferred path was to get the car from an arid area, and get the interior from the east. Lots of rust buckets with low miles and nice original interior parts that weren't sunburned.

 

If it wasn't for the windshield and rear window channels, my 64 would be rust free. I suspect I was the first person to take apart several things on the car, and they came apart so incredibly easy. It's been a joy to work on. 

  Yes, great observation. Frequently, recommendations dictate the purchase of a collector car from arid regions but there is never mention of the effect the arid environment has on soft materials like rubber, vinyl and plastic. From personal experience, I have found original cars from areas that offer a combination of both arid environments and moderate UV can offer the best of both worlds. For instance, I`ve owned several cars from the southern IL and southern IN areas that were great all around cars; think certain areas in Montana or South Dakota can present similar environmental combinations.

Tom Mooney

[XframeFX]

The Pacific Northwest. Easy on cars all around.

I drooled over this '64 which was 4-Sale a couple weeks back south of Olympia, WA. It was only listed for a couple of days. The rear bumper and trunk lock was pushed-in slightly, easy fix.

Price was $19K?

[1965rivgs]

  Yes, that looked like a nice car in the price range. I`m not a fan of the `64 saddle vinyl, it has too much orange in it for me, but coupled with this exterior color it is striking.

Tom Mooney

[jsgun]

That was the original color combination of my 64 actually. Interesting to see what it would have looked like new.

 

Never thought about the Pacific Northwest. SoCal is great for the variety of cars available, but everyone is into cars, and knows the value of what they have so things are at a premium. 

[Malo48]

On 2/8/2021 at 11:28 PM, XframeFX said:

The Pacific Northwest. Easy on cars all around.

I drooled over this '64 which was 4-Sale a couple weeks back south of Olympia, WA. It was only listed for a couple of days. The rear bumper and trunk lock was pushed-in slightly, easy fix.

Price was $19K?

I saw and called about this one but it was already gone by then.  Went quickly!