kreed Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 Now that Rally America apparently no longer does chrome rally wheel restoration , is there anyone else that is recommended ? Thanks KReed ROA 14549 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 10 hours ago, kreed said: Now that Rally America apparently no longer does chrome rally wheel restoration , is there anyone else that is recommended ? Thanks KReed ROA 14549 Hi Ken, In the Riview there has been a facility in TX which has been presented as a substitute for Rally America. I know folks have been using them but I have only received one review which was positive. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 I just pulled my Rally wheels out a week ago. I am considering grinding down the register ring for them to slip over my front rotors (rather than cutting it off). If I can work this out then I will consider having my wheels restored also. So, I too, am curious on where to send my wheels. Two local shops gave me quotes of $1200-1450. Not sure if that is good or bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 Are the rally wheels that you have the 67-1/2 and later ones? The earlier ones will not clear the caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 "I just pulled my Rally wheels out a week ago. I am considering grinding down the register ring for them to slip over my front rotors (rather than cutting it off). " I think Ed answered correctly..... clearing the rotors is not the problem, the rims need to clear the caliper. If the ring on the rim is the problem, I would machine the caliper before doing anything to the rims... I suspect the caliper has excess metal that could be removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 What disk brake system did you install? When I bought the Scarebird brackets, they were suggesting that you use the rotors from a 76 era Riviera. Those rotors originally worked with the same era wheel but those wheels did not have a register ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 I recently saw some wheels on a 68 Riviera that were rechromed in the Dallas area and they were absolutely magnificent.......I'll ask the owner who did them and get back to you. They were the nicest looking chrome rallye wheels I've ever laid an eyeball on. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chimera Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 Or buy these for $3.5K https://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-Riviera-Full-Size-Rally-Chrome-Wheel-Set-w-New-Center-Caps-Lug-Nuts/383496753758?hash=item594a30125e:g:~fsAAOSw2T9ej0~F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kreed Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 P 1 hour ago, Seafoam65 said: I recently saw some wheels on a 68 Riviera that were rechromed in the Dallas area and they were absolutely magnificent.......I'll ask the owner who did them and get back to you. They were the nicest looking chrome rallye wheels I've ever laid an eyeball on. Thanks I would very much appreciate it. KReed 14549 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 9 hours ago, RockinRiviDad said: I just pulled my Rally wheels out a week ago. I am considering grinding down the register ring for them to slip over my front rotors (rather than cutting it off). If I can work this out then I will consider having my wheels restored also. So, I too, am curious on where to send my wheels. Two local shops gave me quotes of $1200-1450. Not sure if that is good or bad. The burning question is in your restoration are you having the wheels chrome plated and the web powder coated? Is that it? Do you they check the wheel for true spin.? Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 OK...... the plater that did my friend's wheels with an incredible show quality finish was: Pulido Plating 5404 Dubby Lane Mesquite, Tx 75180 972-286-2322 (My friend said to tell them that you want their best show finish.) He said they charged him 140.00 per wheel. I wish I had known about them when I had my bumpers rechromed. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 For at least 20 years it has been hard to put together four straight ones at any time. I would be concerned about the ability of a straightened, restored wheel to stay straight after flexing to bend it and bending it back again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWB Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 (edited) Nothing a heat treatment cant fix. Most big cities have some heat treatment service. (Before you re-chrome) Edited May 12, 2020 by PWB (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnulfo de l.a. Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 3 hours ago, Seafoam65 said: OK...... the plater that did my friend's wheels with an incredible show quality finish was: Pulido Plating 5404 Dubby Lane Mesquite, Tx 75180 972-286-2322 (My friend said to tell them that you want their best show finish.) He said they charged him 140.00 per wheel. I wish I had known about them when I had my bumpers rechromed. WOW! That is a GREAT price assuming it's a quality triple plate job I.e. Copper,nickel,chrome. Time will tell if it is or not . It does not take long for a poor chrome job to show by way of fading and/ or chipping. At those prices it's worth shipping them 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kreed Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 Thanks - that is indeed a bargain . I assume at that price it does not include painting the centers . Rally America was charging $350 for a completely done wheel before they discontinued it . KReed ROA 14549 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 I would assume as you said that you have to paint the centers when you get them back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Received some feedback last night from a member who just had Pulido do a set of wheels...cost was $200 per wheel....customer seems very satisfied with appearance but I have not personally seen the wheels.....turn around time was great.....the wheels were not painted....one thing mentioned which might concern me was Pulido needed to confirm which wheels were customers so as not to mix them up with other wheels, easily addressed and I guess the positive twist is they asked, maybe there were mitigating circumstances? Hope this helps, Tom 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 The price variance could be because of the condition of the wheels as far as pitting is concerned. The chrome on my friend's wheels was absolutely amazing show quality all the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 3 hours ago, Seafoam65 said: The price variance could be because of the condition of the wheels as far as pitting is concerned. The chrome on my friend's wheels was absolutely amazing show quality all the way. There could be many reasons...I saw pics of the wheels before plating and would say they were good driver quality. I asked if Pulido priced the job after inspecting the wheels and was told they priced based on pics before shipping. It could also be that they are realizing how much time it takes to do the prep and making adjustments...who knows? Just passing along info... Tom 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kreed Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 Any secrets to painting over chrome ? Rough it up first and the prime ? KReed ROA. 14549 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 Sorry for the delay. I didn’t expect to hijack this thread with so much interest in my wheels. Sorry @kreed On 5/11/2020 at 11:37 AM, RivNut said: Are the rally wheels that you have the 67-1/2 and later ones? The earlier ones will not clear the caliper. Not sure what year wheels I have. I meant to ask this Q on the other “wheel” thread where guys talked about the stampings on the rims outer edge. All I did was test fit my wheels over the front disc brake rotor & it seemed to clear caliper but the register ring was the hinder On 5/11/2020 at 11:53 AM, Barney Eaton said: I think Ed answered correctly..... clearing the rotors is not the problem, the rims need to clear the caliper. If the ring on the rim is the problem, I would machine the caliper before doing anything to the rims... I suspect the caliper has excess metal that could be removed. As of now, yes, the ring is the problem. I will take a closer look but I may not understand what u are suggesting. I dont see how clearancing the caliper will solve the problem of my register ring not slipping over rotor hub On 5/11/2020 at 12:04 PM, RivNut said: What disk brake system did you install? When I bought the Scarebird brackets, they were suggesting that you use the rotors from a 76 era Riviera. Those rotors originally worked with the same era wheel but those wheels did not have a register ring. I will have to dig thru receipts to see what disc brake system I installed. I too bought the Scarebird brackets. But I didn’t follow their shopping list for parts. I ordered a complete kit thru a local Hot Rod shop On 5/11/2020 at 7:34 PM, Turbinator said: The burning question is in your restoration are you having the wheels chrome plated and the web powder coated? Is that it? Do you they check the wheel for true spin.? Turbinator I have aftermarket wheels on my car, which I enjoy. But the traditional/stock look has crossed my mind often. I still have my Rally wheels in the shed. At this point I only chimed in on this thread to see where guys are sending their wheels now. That Texas shop sounds promising Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 18 hours ago, kreed said: Any secrets to painting over chrome ? Rough it up first and the prime ? I’ve never done it. But I’m guessing that a little scuffing with a red scotch brite pad follow by a primer then paint would work??? hopefully someone chimes in with real life experience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 Take a look for previous thread where the guy with stock (pitted & rusty) rally wheels installed some chrome trim rings over the pitted chrome. Ain't stock but it ain't expensive. I've got a set of trimrings which I bought for my Roadmaster wagon which I mounted till the weather turned. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 (edited) Whoa!! Me likey!! So we can simply slap those on our wheels? I’m so in!! where do we get those rings?? Edit: wait a minute. I vaguely remember something about having to weld a wider lip welded on?? Edited May 14, 2020 by RockinRiviDad (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 The wheel in the picture is a stock rally wheel. The trim rings were purchased a local wheel store. I think they are 2-3/4" rings. Stainless with a lot of teeth. I'll figure out whether the wheel is an 802 or an 853, but I don't think it makes any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 Here are some pictures of one of the trim rings tbat were posted in a previous post. Height between base and face. What you see in the picture is a straight edge laid across the face. Close to 2-3/8". Surface of the trim ring. About 2-3/4" Grippers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 Here's a picture reference to the 802 (drum brake) and 853 (disk brake) wheels. 802 853 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 (edited) 21 hours ago, kreed said: Any secrets to painting over chrome ? Rough it up first and the prime ? KReed ROA. 14549 Kreed, you can paint or powder coat. In both cases my experience was the substrate has to be prepared. Take off the chrome with media blast, ( blast cabinet with at 5 hp 60 gallon compressor) but not so aggressive you pit the metal. Clean again. If you are going to paint the way to to go is multi stage and cure. If you powder coat you need the gun, powder, dry air, electricity, and an oven. That is the short version. Spray painting is not hard if you read up and have time for the learning curve. For instance I powder coated all the brackets, fan, pulleys, nuts bolts, heater plenum myself. No big deal. I will say you get dusty as all get out. Turbinator PS powder coated my license tag. Not perfect, but much better than paint. Edited May 14, 2020 by Turbinator (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 (edited) I think you'll have good luck if you scuff the chrome with a 3M Scotch Brute pad, tben prime with a self-etching primer before painting. It's gotta take some real intestinal fortitude to ruin a new chrome plating. Edited May 14, 2020 by RivNut (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 2 hours ago, RockinRiviDad said: I’ve never done it. But I’m guessing that a little scuffing with a red scotch brite pad follow by a primer then paint would work??? hopefully someone chimes in with real life experience The chrome plating has to be removed from the substrate so your coating ( paint or powdercoat adheres). Personally, i media blast the work piece with appropriate media like 80 grit aluminum oxide. Then chemical treatments for cleaning and improved finish of the coating. Of course all the dings and deep scratches have to be repaired before you paint or powder coat. Turbinator 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 4 minutes ago, RivNut said: I think you'll have good luck if you scuff the chrome with a 3M abrasive pad, tben prime with a self-etching primer before painting. It's gotta take some real intestinal fortitude to ruin a new chrome plating. Ed, If you can paint over chrome and make it stick with a 3M scuff pad I’ve been doing it all wrong. The chrome must be removed so the coating can adhere to the substrate. Im happy to be wrong. I remain teachable. Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 How was it done at the factory? Did they chrome plate the wheels, then have someone remove the chrome in the webs, and go through what you're describing? That would have been a very time and labor consuming process. Probably more than was allowed. I'm betting that the wheels were chrome plated, masked with a template, an etching primer was applied to the chrome, then the webs were painted. I have some rims in the garage where the paint has come off the webs. I can see three layers. Chrome, some kind of primer, and the finish coat. The chrome under the primer has a pretty good sheen to it. You have to remember, these wheels were mass produced on an assembly line, not custom finished one at a time like we have to do it now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 9 hours ago, RivNut said: How was it done at the factory? Did they chrome plate the wheels, then have someone remove the chrome in the webs, and go through what you're describing? That would have been a very time and labor consuming process. Probably more than was allowed. I'm betting that the wheels were chrome plated, masked with a template, an etching primer was applied to the chrome, then the webs were painted. I have some rims in the garage where the paint has come off the webs. I can see three layers. Chrome, some kind of primer, and the finish coat. The chrome under the primer has a pretty good sheen to it. You have to remember, these wheels were mass produced on an assembly line, not custom finished one at a time like we have to do it now. Ed, no argument from me on The how they etched and masked in mass production environment. We both know the factory didn’t use rattle can paint. The burning question remains is how much chrome plating has to be removed. The work piece Needs a surface the paint or powder coating to stick. If and only if the surface of the newly chromed needed scuffing with a simple abrasive the chrome shop would do the work? I bet the chrome Shop did not finish the job because it was not profitable for Them to treat the surface for paint. Since a customer goes to the trouble of having the thing chromed they would want the paint to stick for the next 50 years. One thing for sure your Suggested method can work for a period of time. The big BUT, how long will the paint stick? If the paint comes off it can be repainted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 I have Riv's that still have the factory paint on them. When I took the paint off I used the old carb. cleaner which took the paint off to see a nice shine from the original chroming process. There HAS TO BE a primer that will do the job, we just not have found it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 Mar-Hyde Ultimate 2K polyurethane primer does not need a mechanical "tooth" it blonds to surfaces by curing chemically. It would work fine. I get expert training on this from a 50 years autobody trade school retiree on Tuesday nights. And he buys his own coffee. Bernie 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 22 hours ago, 60FlatTop said: Mar-Hyde Ultimate 2K polyurethane primer does not need a mechanical "tooth" it blonds to surfaces by curing chemically. It would work fine. I get expert training on this from a 50 years autobody trade school retiree on Tuesday nights. And he buys his own coffee. Bernie Bernie, I’m certain your information is solid from your pro friend. The information you provide is known as anecdotal evidence. The chemical bond the primer has with a chrome finish I’m sure is impressive. Since I have a pretty good blast cabinet and plenty media blast tape I’ll take the plating off with aluminum oxide. Evidence is a good start toward the proof.The evidence must be proven for it to be the truth. And then the truth may be spelled with the lowercase t. Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/Mar-Hyde-4-4-Ultimate-2K-High-Speed-Primer/?N=5002385+3293242368&rt=rud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 How about the chrome bicycle rims I recently painted. A few pieces of chrome had flaked off and I didn't want to go to the expense of reforming them. . I cleaned them with some Acetone, sprayed them with two coats of Bulldog Adhesion Promoter per instructions, then with SEM self etching primer. Got a couple of runs in the primer so I sanded it down and resprayed. Never did reach the chrome with 500 grit Wet- or-dry paper (Wet with a little detergent) and some elbow grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 I must have been lying with a capital L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 On 5/17/2020 at 11:14 AM, RivNut said: How about the chrome bicycle rims I recently painted. A few pieces of chrome had flaked off and I didn't want to go to the expense of reforming them. . I cleaned them with some Acetone, sprayed them with two coats of Bulldog Adhesion Promoter per instructions, then with SEM self etching primer. Got a couple of runs in the primer so I sanded it down and resprayed. Never did reach the chrome with 500 grit Wet- or-dry paper (Wet with a little detergent) and some elbow grease. Ed, I’m delighted it works for you. My experience has not been so good. So, being fairly intense I said I’ll fix this sucker and blasted it clean to the substrate. The paint sticks good. For powder coating the metal must be bare and de gassed as well. After messing a number of turbines I’m starting to catch on. Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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