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arnulfo de l.a.

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Everything posted by arnulfo de l.a.

  1. Yea not cheap. Its amazing stuff, will last a lifetime.
  2. Get some PEEK and make your own. I think you can get sheets of it in various thickness from McMASTER CARR
  3. What is considered more accurate plastigage or micrometer? What do professional engine builders use?
  4. Should this be done before or after seal install or both before and after?
  5. That is one good looking crank! Is it new or refurbished? The groove in the mains is new to me. Looks like a good idea.
  6. NXT! Thank you for all the VALUABLE info you provide. Much appreciated!
  7. I believe buick started oiling through the push rods when the 455 came out in 1971. The solid push rods are the correct ones for your 430 assuming you are using the original rockers.
  8. Thats exactly what im trying to do but with a 430 and 455 cam. Thanks for posting the nailhead chart!
  9. Great info John ! I just finished up degreeing a camshaft from a 430 buick engine. It is the original camshaft . Trying to figure out amount of advance ,if any, the cam has. With the info you provided im assuming i can subtract CL from LSA to get advance value.First I need to figure out what the LSA is. Still learning ! Thanks
  10. John lobe separation angel ( LSA ) is measured in camshaft degrees and cannot be changed. Its ground into the cam. Intake centerline angel( CL ) is measured in crankshaft degrees relative to the crankshaft being at top dead center. Intake centerline angel can be changed by removing the camshaft and rotating for either more advance or retard.
  11. Follow instructions ? What instructions did you send ? The answer is NONE. You put a second hand vacuum advance, a poorly hacked advance stop, a module that did not work with twelve volts knowing full well that i wanted to eliminate the resistor and points. On top of all that you installed the rotor wrong which i corrected. Never once did you ever mention that the module would require 9v. Had you articulated that I would have made it known to you that would not be satisfactory. I paid you $390 for a job that was junk right out the box. But putting all that aside , the worst part besides your shoddy work is that YOU DO NOT STAND BEHIND YOUR WORK. Had you offered to make it right I would be telling everyone that you are a straight shooter and someone solid to do business with. It is best for you not to respond to anything I may post in regards to anything i may be giving away or any services that I may be seeking. If you insist on doing so know that I will out you for the thief that you are.
  12. Are you trying to be funny? After you ripped me off for over $350 on the shoddy distributor conversion ? You need to sober up or get off the drugs
  13. ONLY if you own a 1968 and dont have one. NOT for resale. First “ill take it “ gets it
  14. Like the rest of the car, the electrical systems in our rivi were well built . The wire sizes used through out have plenty of circular mil area for the tasks at hand. The original alternators are superior to any big box parts store hands down regardless of the advertised amp capacity. You dont need 100 amps unless you are running some type of outrageous sound system. For a trouble free electrical system the entire system needs to be up to par. That does not mean all new wiring, connectors ,etc. It means no frayed wires, no loose connections, no oxidation at connection points, clean light sockets , accessible relay contact points cleaned. If all those potential issues are addressed you will have a perfectly functioning electrical system. ANY weak points in the system will tax ANY alternator,relays and voltage regulator.
  15. Not saying you cant get a 3” ring on the wheels. You wont have that same deep look that the additional 1” widening gives as illustrated in the pic of the black rivi. If you could find the original post to the black gs you will see that the owner of the car stated that he had the wheels widened by 1” .
  16. You would need to widen the wheel by 1” to get that deep look. A shalllower ring will fit without widening but will not look as deep.
  17. John! Thanks for that man, great job. I respect your improvising skills, very impressive.Surprised to see no overlap. Should make for a smooth idling engine. Wonder if your thumping issue is being caused by a weak cylinder or possibly an out of balance rotating assembly. I have also wondered if torque converters are balanced. When they are full of fluid that makes for alot of rotating mass. Could it be that the fluid acts as a dynamic balancer?Hope you get it figured out. NXT, the pistons sat .040 in the hole and he used a .050 compressed gasket for a total of .090 in the hole. Horrible quench ! Should be between .035- .045 max. He also bored it .030 over and the damage from detonation would take a minimum of another .030 for a total of .060 overbore. Even if a sonic test showed the cylinder walls were good to go that big, ( which is a crap shoot due to core shift ) i dont feel comfortable With that much overbore. The only other option would be to resleeve. Not too big on that idea because it would require the decks to be machined and the numbers would be removed. Being its the numbers matching engine to the 68 rivi gs I am not crazy about that idea either. So for now the block will sit in the corner of my garage. Yes I did keep the lifters and push rods separated by cylinder and intake / exhaust valves. I have not yet disassembled the heads to the 455. Want to cc the combustion chambers first.When I do take the heads apart I will also separate from the keepers to the valves.
  18. I agree on the smog cams not being up to par for a presmog engine. This is the original cam to the 1973 455 . The original 68 gs engine was ruined due to severe detonation. The person that rebuilt it back in the 80’s left an enormous amount of deck clearance . So i sourced a 455 to replace it. One of the reasons i am considering using the original cam is because the cam and lifters are already broken in and in excellent condition.Also i am not looking to build a high performance engine. Ability to run on pump gas and reliability are what is most important to me. I hope to take are few 5k trips on it. I am not dead set on using the cam. I am degreeing the cam so i can make comparisons of whats available in the aftermarket in case i decide to go new. I will make a final decision when the time comes where i have to decide . Im in the beginning stages of the build right now, disassembly ,measuring ,cleaning then off to the machine shop for a sonic test, rebore , assuming the sonic checks out, and a clean up and squaring of the block and head deck surfaces.
  19. No sir! Sorry for the misunderstanding. No need to go through all the trouble for such an accurate measurement . I was referring to how much movement you got when you moved it side to side with your hand Very cool! Care to share some numbers? I would be most interested lobe seperation angle , intake open , intake close and whatever else you would like to share. I am in the process of degreeing the original camshaft to a 1973 455 i am working on for installation into a 1968 rivi gs. Thanks
  20. Thanks John. Exactly what i needed. I plan to do the same as you by leaving all the components intact under the hood.
  21. Is this an ac car with ac pullys compresssor removed?
  22. I am looking to take the ac compressor out the loop. Wondering if just ordering a belt that is listed with no ac will do the trick. Has anyone done this ? Thanks
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