Ave250r Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Came across this car and am looking to purchase it. Was wanting to know more about them. Any input would be greatly appreciated, what to look for. And possibly a ball bark value. Was up and road worthy ten years ago. Been sitting inside on rollers since. Thank you ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Sure doesn’t look like it’s in original condition anymore. Might have modern running gear installed now. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave250r Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 It’s an older lady who is selling it , she wasn’t sure if the running gear Was original or updated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S. Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Ave250r, the Willys 77 was produced from 1933 to 1936. They came in coupe, sedan, pick up, sedan delivery, and roadster. A lot of them were used as Gassers, or Street Rods. That is what the car you are looking at is. All Willys Model 77 were powered by a 4 cyl. Good luck in buying the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave250r Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 Thanks John , any rough idea what it could value wise ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S. Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 No. Do you have an idea what they are asking for it. Willys 77's don't come around every day, and you have to see how good the body and chassis are. I take it, the motor is not the original 4 cyl. Body parts are available in fiberglass. Good luck. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave250r Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 I was told from a different person she was thinking 5-6,000. She was unsure what engine is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S. Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 That's not bad. You couldn't get a roach Willys for that. Even if the engine isn't running, that is not a bad price at all. I would push for the 5 Grand. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave250r Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 thanks John , greatly appreciate your time and responses. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S. Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Anytime. Good luck. Let me know how make it. Good luck. John, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave250r Posted April 2, 2020 Author Share Posted April 2, 2020 Will do, going to look Saturday. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lump Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 (edited) Ave250r...I suggest that you check the body panels to find out how many are steel (hopefully all of them?). All-steel Willys cars are worth a great deal more than fiberglass replicas. There have been many, many fiberglass parts made for Willys. A very good friend of mine was a very well-known gasser driver who match-raced in 38 different states, and went on to become crew chief for a top notch superstock drag racing team. He tells me that his 33 Willys was ALL aftermarket parts, except for the trunk lid handle, which was OEM Willys. The entire body was fiberglass...and this was in the late 1960's. So it is entirely possible that this car you have found could include a lot of fiberglass parts on a later model chassis. Depending on what you find upon further examination, it might still be worth that kind of money. Just my opinion. PS: Below are some photos of my friend Paul Frost's 33 Willys gasser, back in the day: Edited April 2, 2020 by lump (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 (edited) This was Willys smallest car based on the twenties Whippet. They continued making them after they stopped making the larger more expensive Knight engine models. They had a 4 cylinder engine that was not too good. Later, Delmar "Barney" Roos made major improvements to this engine, increasing horsepower and more than doubling engine life for the Americar model that started in 1938. The same engine was used in WW2 Jeeps and in civilian Jeeps for several years after the war. It was a 4 cyl flathead that was replaced in 1954 by an F head 4. They were the smallest car made in America at the time, with the exception of Bantam . If you want a small unusual car you could have a lot of fun with a Willys. Not many survive in stock condition, hundreds were cut up for hot rods and drag racers in the fifties and sixties. I don't know much about the model but if the engine interchanges with later Americar and Jeep models that would be a big advantage. As others pointed out, fibreglass body panels are available. As for other parts there may be a Willys club that can help out. Edited April 2, 2020 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 WOKR is the club for these Willyses (Willys Overland Knight Registry). Or check out a street rod site, like HAMB. F head 134 came out before 1954, in 1950. My 1950 Jeepster has one. Not found in a Jeep CJ until 1954 due to low hood line. The F head is much taller than the flat head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937hd45 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 3 hours ago, Ave250r said: I was told from a different person she was thinking 5-6,000. She was unsure what engine is. BUY IT! That is based in pre virus days. Hot Rod value is far higher than restored to original value. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937hd45 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 I haven't seen many photos of the later Willys 77, the early ones had a nicer looking grill IMO. Bob 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 (edited) Here is what your car looked like when new, Notice the different headlights, wheels, turn signals replacing the horn grilles, missing trim and the non stock color. There may be other modifications that would affect the collector value and desirability of the car. Edited April 2, 2020 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
58L-Y8 Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Its value to you depends upon what you want the car to be. If you are pursuing an original and this car has been modified with newer drivetrain and chassis components, interior, paint, etc, then all you be buying is a body and a frame. You'll have to take it from there to return it to original configuration or some semblance thereof. Analyze what it is when you inspect it, compare it to what you want it to be and then decide on what its value is to you. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46 woodie Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 For 5 or 6 grand it's certainly worth it. If I had to guess I would bet that the motor is a small block chevy. It might just need a clean up and for 6K you have a driver. If you plan on scrapping all the street rod stuff and doing a total restoration, thats a different story. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28 Chrysler Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 A 4 door bodied car might have a fiberglass front clip on it. The sedans like this were not popular with the hardcore racers unless they were very modified. Paint it and make it look stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 (edited) The consensus seems to be, it's a good buy at the price but you should go over the car with a magnet looking for fibreglass parts, check the engine, chassis, interior for modifications, and ask if they have any of the original parts such as the wheels. Take any needed repairs and replacements into account when it comes to price. If the car is heavily modified you need to decide if you want a modified car or not. It's probably not worth it if you have to change the engine, chassis, etc back to stock it would be better to hold out for one that is not modified even if it costs more money. Unless you are happy with the modified car. Edited April 2, 2020 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave250r Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Just looked at the car.. not one piece of Fiberglass on it ALL metal. Doesn’t have the original engine/ tranny. It has a 4 cylinder Mazda in it. Looks like it’s been restored but great quality of work. Needs door windows installed and door panels. Has like a vinyl top ... is that factory ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Note the cars in the original car photos, they all have a vinyl insert area in the top. That was common in the 1930s cars as making a full metal roof stamping was not yet common practice. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt G Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 SO at a minimum you will need to find an engine and transmission and wheels. What about the steering box, front and rear axle, brake drums ? Perhaps a contact with the WOKR ( Willys Overland Knight) Registry person who may be the tech guy for these can answer the questions of perhaps where /what is missing can be located. Are you equipped and ready to take on a project? Do you have the time and space to do so? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave250r Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 I’d honestly prolly just drive it the way it is. She’s at $5,500 on it. I don’t that price is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937hd45 Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 1 hour ago, Ave250r said: I’d honestly prolly just drive it the way it is. She’s at $5,500 on it. I don’t that price is bad. I'd find different wheels & tires, and drive it as is, cheap entry level car,. enjoy it. Bob 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S. Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 3 hours ago, Ave250r said: I’d honestly prolly just drive it the way it is. She’s at $5,500 on it. I don’t that price is bad. Ave250r, you just answered all your questions. The price isn't bad, and just drive it the way it is. Good Luck. Hope you get it. John 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave250r Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 Sorry didn’t see the responses on the second page here. I was really surprised that the car was all metal and had zero fiberglass on it. I will drive it as is, maybe find some better looking wheels for it and just have a nice old cruiser. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zepher Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ave250r said: Sorry didn’t see the responses on the second page here. I was really surprised that the car was all metal and had zero fiberglass on it. I will drive it as is, maybe find some better looking wheels for it and just have a nice old cruiser. Since most of us are men on this forum and men tend to be visual creatures, post some pics of when you pick up the car and your progress along the way. It's a very interesting and unique car, especially being that it is an all metal body not hacked up and full of fiberglass. Wondering if the engine swap was done clean or if they hacked up the frame in the process. Good luck with your new purchase! Edited April 7, 2020 by zepher (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave250r Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937hd45 Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 I think you did fine. Can you find out what all the updated parts are, that front end is a bit of a mystery. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryankazmer Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 I'd suggest you contemplate where you want the interior to end up. It can be an incremental project, but with the end in mind pieces will not need to be redone. For example, choose the door card material and pattern to match your target, not necessarily what's there now. A Hollander manual can tell what other cars' wheels will work, but be sure first that your hubs have not been changed. Some plain moon caps wouldn't be out of character if the Willys ones are too elusive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave250r Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 Didn’t take much to get this car running even though it was sitting so long. Working on the brakes now. They stubbed in the mazda front end. The body work on this car is great. It has definitely caught a lot of attention and have had a handful of people wanting to buy it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ave250r Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 On 4/7/2020 at 5:38 AM, 1937hd45 said: I think you did fine. Can you find out what all the updated parts are, that front end is a bit of a mystery. Bob Stubbed in Mazda 4 cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zepher Posted May 24, 2020 Share Posted May 24, 2020 Good to hear you got it running well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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