mikeyz123 Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 So i have a 1949 Chrysler windsor, vehicle doesn’t start up right away, took of carburetor and sprayed it with carburetor cleaner. Also used some starter fluid. I changed the spark plugs and i know there is also an exhaust leak and radiator leak but I don’t think that would prevent the car from starting. Also a new battery. Any suggestions would help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Does it start at all? Not clear from your description saying it does not start right away. If you need starting fluid to get it going that could be clue #1. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 (edited) By spraying it with carb cleaner you now have a much better looking carb, but you have done nothing for the running condition of it. Looking down into the carb, have someone step quickly on the gas pedal, if you do not see a squirt of gas, your accelerator pump is not working. That is what gives the motor the extra gas it needs to start. You also may have low compression, sticky valves, slow cranking or weak ignition. Edited November 5, 2018 by Roger Walling (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vermontboy Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Make certain that all battery cables are at least 0 gauge. Most hard starting is tied to 12v replacement cables and or bad connections at battery, starter, or ground (usually ground). It is the first thing I check on any 6 volt vehicle with starting problems. You can get a good set of 0 or 00 (better yet) made at almost any welding shop. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Check for fuel. Check for spark. Check for compression. Check for timing. A car that wont start needs trouble shooting. Maybe parts after that. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyz123 Posted November 8, 2018 Author Share Posted November 8, 2018 Thanks everyone for their feedback, my other question is how to adjust the emergency brake, not sure how to do it and i know it needs to be adjusted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 May I suggest you get a shop manual for your car. These are must have for owning and repairing a car like this. Don’t get me wrong, we do enjoy helping out on the forum but based on my own experiences there’s nothing like having access to the shop manual when trying to fix problems. 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28 Chrysler Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 On the rear of the transmission there is a band with a cable attached at the top, loosen the nuts, back off the one on the cable side a bit, tighten the outer one. Many parking brakes work poorly because of grease and oil on the band. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyz123 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 I have a blown head gasket, is anyone aware on how to remove the head and what steps and or precautions i have to take prior to removing the head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 On 11/8/2018 at 7:11 AM, mikeyz123 said: Thanks everyone for their feedback, my other question is how to adjust the emergency brake, not sure how to do it and i know it needs to be adjusted. Get the factory shop manual for the 1949 and 50 Chrysler...easy to find online and use it to repair fix your car. There are four different adjustment procedures on your external E-brake band and cable. Check your cable at the bell housing @ the cross member for fraying damage separation too. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheezestaak2000 Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 did chrysler still use manual choke in 1949? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 3 hours ago, cheezestaak2000 said: did chrysler still use manual choke in 1949? 'All I have seen used the Sission automatic choke. Reliable and easy to adjust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vermontboy Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 9 hours ago, mikeyz123 said: I have a blown head gasket, is anyone aware on how to remove the head and what steps and or precautions i have to take prior to removing the head. You need a shop manual. Many of us could tell you from memory the basics, but on many engines there are little "gotcha's" that will get you without a shop manual whether or not you have done them before. As a basic starting point - label things. It is all too easy to put a long bolt in a short hole during reassembly. It is all too easy not to notice that Part A must come off to get Part B off. It is all too easy not to "iron" the head flat when torquing bolts. Even though I have replaced my share of head gaskets on old engines I want a manual to give me reminders as to the hidden problems that may be present on a particular make or model. The cost of a shop manual will save you at least that much frustration on the first repair you do - honest...... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyz123 Posted November 16, 2018 Author Share Posted November 16, 2018 Hey guys, so i have taken my engine head off and been waiting for head gasket so i can replace it, but i was told to check for sticky valves, not sure how to do that does anyone have an idea. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 (edited) If you think that you have sticky valves, you can spray penetrating oil down the valve stems while the valve is open. The side of the engine has a cover that encloses the lifters. Take that off and spray the lifters and stems of the valves. It may help if somebody cranks the engine over when spraying the lifters. This advice is general in nature and your engine may be different. Not to insult you, but it seems that you know next to nothing about engines. You could do more harm than good. When I was 18, I knew nothing about automatic transmissions and when I broke my reverse band on my 55 Chrysler, I bought the shop manual and studied it. Low and behold. it turned out to be much simpler than I had imagined. There was a simple trick that I never would have thought of on my own. I didn't even have to remove the transmission that I was going to do! Buy the car makers manual, study it before you make an oops! http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1949-1950-Chrysler-Repair-Shop-Manual-Reprint-P10100.aspx Edited November 16, 2018 by Roger Walling (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted November 16, 2018 Share Posted November 16, 2018 6 hours ago, mikeyz123 said: Hey guys, so i have taken my engine head off and been waiting for head gasket so i can replace it, but i was told to check for sticky valves, not sure how to do that does anyone have an idea. thanks With the head off it should be easy to turn the engine over by hand. If all of the valves open and close then none are stuck. You will know right away if one or more do not close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
61polara Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Why did you take the head off for a slow cranking problem? Did you do a compression test to determine there was a problem? Slow fire up on an older carbureted car is usually just the fuel has evaporated from the carb bowl and it takes a little cranking to get fuel back up to the carb. When you get the head back on, let us know what is going on. More complicated now because we also have to diagnose the original problem plus what may have gone wrong in installing a new head gasket. Lots of great guys on here willing to help, but don't jump ahead of us. Stay with us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyz123 Posted November 17, 2018 Author Share Posted November 17, 2018 I took the head off because i had a blown head gasket. I read that since the engine head is off i should check for leaky valves. Im assuming the bolts on the lefthand side of the engine are what i need to take off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Time to take it to someone who knows the old Mopar flatheads....hope you didn't use the Scotch-Brite Roloc disc's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyz123 Posted November 17, 2018 Author Share Posted November 17, 2018 Why is that? I did use them, i used a cast iron rated one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Make sure to check the head with a straight edge. You don't want more that a couple of thousandths of warpage. The block could also show some out of square but its a lot more to deal with if its out to far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 3 hours ago, mikeyz123 said: Why is that? I did use them, i used a cast iron rated one. THE USE OF "SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS" - WHEN CLEANING ENGINE GASKET SEALING SURFACES, AND/OR CLEANING PARTS FROM AN ENGINE WHICH ARE TO BE REUSED; SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS (TYPICALLY A WOVEN FIBER PAD DESIGN) WHICH CONTAIN ABRASIVES, SUCH AS A HIGH AMOUNT OF ALUMINUM OXIDE, ARE NOT RECOMMENDED. THE USE OF SUCH SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS DISLODGE ALUMINUM OXIDE (FROM THE DISC) AND METAL PARTICLES, WHICH CAN LEAD TO PREMATURE ENGINE BEARING FAILURE. THE PRESENCE OF ALUMINUM OXIDE IN ENGINE OIL HAS BEEN SHOWN TO CAUSE PREMATURE ENGINE BEARING FAILURE. IN SOME CASES THIS FAILURE OCCURS IN AS LITTLE AS 1,000 MILES (2,200 KM) OR LESS AFTER THE REPAIR HAS BEEN MADE. SURFACE CONDITIONING DISCS MAY GRIND THE COMPONENT PART MATERIAL AND IMBED IT INTO THE DISC. THIS CAN RESULT WHEN MORE AGGRESSIVE GRINDING OF THE GASKET SURFACE TAKES PLACE. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 21 hours ago, mikeyz123 said: I took the head off because i had a blown head gasket. I read that since the engine head is off i should check for leaky valves. Im assuming the bolts on the lefthand side of the engine are what i need to take off? The bolts that are pictured hold on the intake and exaust manifolds, they are not the ones that I mentioned to access the lifters and valve stems. STOP!!! BUY THE BOOK. Before you waste a lot of time and break something. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyz123 Posted November 19, 2018 Author Share Posted November 19, 2018 I have read the book. It doesn’t tell me how to access the lifters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 (edited) Take a picture under the intake/exhaust manifold. Should be under there Edited November 19, 2018 by jackofalltrades70 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 If you looked at any flat head engine drawing you would see that the lifters are below the valves and fide on the camshaft. What you need to take off are the flat plates behind the manifold which is what you are looking down on in your picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 (edited) Pull the passenger lower inner fender panel off.... Edited November 19, 2018 by c49er (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 A pre-disassembly of the head, compression wet/dry test could have helped you troubleshoot valve sealing. Now? Well it takes a good eye and experience to look at valve seats and valve surfaces to check for sealability. This is after valves are all removed. You’ll need a valve spring compression tool to reassemble everything. You could pull intake and exhaust manifolds. Ensure each cylinder is at TDC. Set valve lash best you can. Then Use a syringe and drip kerosene around each valve head. Each cylinder must be at TDC. Look for any kerosene reaching the bottom side of the valve, by peering in the intake and exh ports. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 Some tips here: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 4 hours ago, mikeyz123 said: I have read the book. It doesn’t tell me how to access the lifters. You may have been reading a book on general repairs to cars. The book that I recommended is specifically for 49 Chryslers and should tell you about everything in the motor. It is a reprint of the Chrysler Motor car co. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 (edited) mikeyz123, You have received many comments and a lot of possible problems with your car. The head gasket may be the only major thing wrong with it. You should consider all answers and only act on them if you can get someone to confirm the problem or you will be chasing your tail forever and chance destroying something , or at least spending time and money on something that does not need repairing. Now that the head is off, spray penetrating oil on the valve stems as they open when cranking over the engine. This will only cost a few $ and "if" your valves are sticking, it "may" correct them. You can also inspect the valve seats (the round circle that the valve hits when it closes) It should be shiny all the way around without any gaps or burned areas. A can of Rislone or other additive to improve engine performance could be added to the oil when you get it back together. Remove and clean the battery cables at the battery, engine ground and starter, this may help it turn over faster. Don't forget to charge the battery! Clean and gap the spark plugs. Consult the book on the correct order of the spark plug wires Edited November 20, 2018 by Roger Walling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 On 11/5/2018 at 3:38 AM, mikeyz123 said: So i have a 1949 Chrysler windsor, vehicle doesn’t start up right away, took of carburetor and sprayed it with carburetor cleaner. Also used some starter fluid. I changed the spark plugs and i know there is also an exhaust leak and radiator leak but I don’t think that would prevent the car from starting. Also a new battery. Any suggestions would help. How long has this starting problem been an issue? Have you even been able to start the engine and get it running for any lenght of time? If it did eventually start and run did it run smoothly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyz123 Posted November 27, 2018 Author Share Posted November 27, 2018 Hey guys, I appreciate all the help and advice on here, so I noticed where both my tie rods connect is right below oil pan and has been rubbing up against it. Any suggestionsas to why this is. I know the pan is original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 Check the front motor mount(s)..........bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyz123 Posted December 5, 2018 Author Share Posted December 5, 2018 Hey guys, So i have a 1949 Chrysler windsor flathead 6 and I recently blew a head gasket. So I replaced the head gasket and now that i have put everything back together the car won’t start and Not sure as to why. Hopefully i can get some sort of help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted December 5, 2018 Share Posted December 5, 2018 (edited) Do you have compression, now it is back together? Do you have spark? Do you have fuel in the cylinders? Indeed, does it have the original fuel pump? Does the starter motor turn it over? What have you done? Did you remove the plug leads or swap them around in any way? Did you touch the distributor? We can help if you tell us what you have done in trying to get it started. Edited December 5, 2018 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyz123 Posted December 5, 2018 Author Share Posted December 5, 2018 There is compression and there is spark and fuel getting to cylinder, it just cranks and doesn’t start. I have got the firing order correct and all i did was replace disttributor cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 Were the plug wires replaced in the correct rotation (clockwise vs. counterclockwise)? I'm not near my reference material, but your manual (you do have one, right?) will tell you the direction of rotation--or have someone crank it while you watch which way the rotor turns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 Does the choke work too well? Does it even pop? Does it crank over fast? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyz123 Posted December 24, 2018 Author Share Posted December 24, 2018 Hey guys, so i am looking for the correct term or name for the part that comes off the tie rods and goes to the front of the car, i know its a steering knuckle or something, but can’t find anything online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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