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Newly buffed Cast Aluminum Rims for a 63 Red Riviera


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Posted
14 minutes ago, NCRiviera said:

Is this safe for chrome plated Rallye wheels and stainless steel trim also? 

I've copied and pasted this from the Mother's website 

"Welcome to Wax Forum

Mag & Aluminum Polish can scratch modern chromes, and this is one reason why we don't recommend its use except in situations where there is severe rust or other challenges."

 

 

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Posted
45 minutes ago, NCRiviera said:

What is recommended for SS and chrome for removing light scratches?  

White rouge buffing compound and cotton buffing wheel for SS does great.

I wouldn't touch chrome. Its usually < 0.001 inch. Go beyond that and bye bye chrome.

De-chromed areas can be buffed and coated with clear coatings.

 

Posted
3 hours ago, NCRiviera said:

What is recommended for SS and chrome for removing light scratches?  

Scratches in stainless can be removed . Check youtube for a DIY video.  Scratches in chrome are permanent.

Posted
5 hours ago, lrlforfun said:

OK Riviera Bob: Come on now, what's your secret?  Mitch

 

4 hours ago, NCRiviera said:

Is this safe for chrome plated Rallye wheels and stainless steel trim also? 

I use it and I agree Mother’s is great stuff.

 

5 hours ago, lrlforfun said:

OK Riviera Bob: Come on now, what's your secret?  Mitch

Mitch no JB Weld on this project.

A local Rimrenew owner was intrigued with my project of cleaning up the cast aluminum. He liked me I guess and said let him paint the cast aluminum. He then gave directions on getting an ORBiTAl mini sander. Then he gave me the list of 2” grit sanding discs to get. ( 320,400,600,800, 1000,2000, and 4000. ) He said wash off the grit from the rim between grit changes. He said the smoother you get the metal the better the shine. Next he said use white and blue polishing stuff you put on a hugging wheel after the 4000 grit. Next he said use metal polish ThEN bring the rims to me to clear coat. They have yet to be clear coated. One of the rims was broken around the circumference and a buddy of mine MIG or TIG welded the piece back in the rim. Looks good let’s hope it holds.

Last secret, a lot of work.

Thank you again for your input.

Red Riviera Bob

Posted

I must say that LOOKS REALLY, REALLY, REALLY NICE!!!!!   How many hours did you spend on each one???

I got some I MUST clean.

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

Posted

My understanding is that modern chrome is much thinner. So it's not as forgiving as chrome done 30 years ago.

 

I've read not to use any ammonia based products on chrome either, that it actually dissolves chrome at a microscopic level.

 

I've done the Coca-Cola and tinfoil thing on chrome, it works reasonably well for filling in spiderwebs and very tiny pits.

Posted
25 minutes ago, jsgun said:

My understanding is that modern chrome is much thinner. So it's not as forgiving as chrome done 30 years ago.

 

I'd guess that "modern" chrome refers to trivalent chrome as opposed to the hexavalent chrome that was used years ago (and has largely disappeared due to OHSA regulation).  Hexavalent chrome is harder than trivalent (likely the reason for the warning).  It also has a slightly blue cast.  If you're getting parts replated and you're anal about keeping vintage appearance, ask your plater which process they use.

 

Since they're 50 years old, these wheels almost certainly have hexavalent chrome.

Posted

From my understanding talking with the platers that do the work the copper is the thing that's eliminated & also mentioned the type of chrome. The nickel is what shines, then has a clear coat over it.

Posted

That's a couple of different things: "triple plating" is copper, nickel, and chrome.  Copper is the base, both because it adheres to the material and because it can be used to build up the material and fill in defects.  Nickel comes next, then the chrome.  Not all chrome plating uses all three steps.

 

The chrome is the outer, hard layer.  It is responsible for both the final appearance and the hard protection.  In the old days, they used hexavalent chromium.  Due to concerns about health (hexavalent chromium is carcinogenic) and hazardous waste, the industry largely switched to using trivalent chromium.  It's a much safer process, but the end result is different.

Posted
On 10/14/2017 at 2:54 PM, PWB said:

Nice.

 

Ever use Mothers?  Will make aluminum almost mirror like.

 

 

shopping.jpg

PWB,  The challenge to get the cast aluminum to shine with Mothers is how good of shape is the cast aluminum? My rims were solid but they needed a lot of wet sanding. First the rims were media blasted and second they were repainted by rim repair shop. Next, I had to wet sand with 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, and 2000 grit. Then I buffed them out with the blue stuff you apply to the buffing wheel. NOW, we can put the crowning glow on with Mothers. NEXt, they go back to the rim shop to have the paint touched up where I hit with the sander. Then, they get clear coated. Having said all this IF a set of cast aluminum rims with caps and center caps in outstanding shape were for sale I'd jump in minute at $1500.00 for the set of 4. 

Thanks again for your compliment and input regarding Mothers.

Red Riviera Bob

Posted
On 10/15/2017 at 4:55 AM, telriv said:

I must say that LOOKS REALLY, REALLY, REALLY NICE!!!!!   How many hours did you spend on each one???

I got some I MUST clean.

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

Tom, I have not kept track of the time because my air compressor can’t keep up. I take a lot of breaks. My guess is I’m at least 6 good hours on each rim. You use a lot of sandpaper and I wash the wheels a lot. You especially wash them between grit change. Additionally, each wheel was completely gone over twice. I saw where I missed a lot. The higher the grit the faster it goes. The water helps move the sandpaper as well. It is not hard, just tedious. A weak air compressor makes the work go slow. The smoother the metal the better the shine.

red Riviera Bob

Posted
Just now, Red Riviera Bob said:

Tom, I have not kept track of the time because my air compressor can’t keep up. I take a lot of breaks. My guess is I’m at least 6 good hours on each rim. You use a lot of sandpaper and I wash the wheels a lot. You especially wash them between grit change. Additionally, each wheel was completely gone over twice. I saw where I missed a lot. The higher the grit the faster it goes. The water helps move the sandpaper as well. It is not hard, just tedious. A weak air compressor makes the work go slow. The smoother the metal the better the shine.

red Riviera Bob

To add...a 2” orbital air sander is what I use. Aircat about $110.00 ANOTHER alternative is the Metabo 3 1/8” ELECTRIC sander eliminates the need for a compressor. Orbital style is important because the orbital sands in little circles while the sanding head turns in circles too.

Posted
On 10/16/2017 at 11:44 AM, Scott Mckenzie said:

Well done Bob, the effort shows.

 

Scott, thank you for your observation and positive feedback. I’m trying to redeem myself from the JB Weld event.??

Posted
On 10/15/2017 at 12:30 AM, jframe said:

Love these covers. I would use them on my 65 if I had four good ROUND base wheels.

JFrame, there is a gent in Philadelphia could get you the 4 round stock wheels if you can wait. I just got two stock wheels with holes in them to bolt up up the cast aluminium rims I'm cleaning up. Private message me and I'll get you details if you interested enough to investigate possibilities.

 Red Riviera Bob

Posted
On 10/14/2017 at 1:25 PM, NCRiviera said:

Is this safe for chrome plated Rallye wheels and stainless steel trim also? 

 

I used to think yes, but now no. I recently used some on a nearly scratch free stainless radiator shell to clean the metal. Unfortunately, it instilled some fine scratches.  Mother's has a metal polish which I THINK is less abrasive

Posted

I have been using Simichrome since I got involved with the 100 point Rolls-Royce kids. They tested it on their cars so I was OK using it on the Buick.

 

A local guitar shop stocks it near me, but it is easy to find online. Good stuff.

 

image.jpeg.95404993aa34e002cd300e1d04b9b38d.jpeg

Bernie

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Posted
On 10/21/2017 at 12:32 PM, 60FlatTop said:

I have been using Simichrome since I got involved with the 100 point Rolls-Royce kids. They tested it on their cars so I was OK using it on the Buick.

 

A local guitar shop stocks it near me, but it is easy to find online. Good stuff.

 

image.jpeg.95404993aa34e002cd300e1d04b9b38d.jpeg

Bernie

Bernie, I’ve seen the simichrome advertised. I want to get some. If a guitar shop stocks this they must be around a lot of  vintage instruments. Do you know I do not put a thing on my guitars but a an old t shirt or Gerber Baby cotton diapers to wipe off the body oils and perspiration.

I have a 1955 Gibson ES 125 ( student guitar) and it could use something that would add luster. Thank You for the tip.

RRB

Posted
On 10/21/2017 at 12:32 PM, 60FlatTop said:

I have been using Simichrome since I got involved with the 100 point Rolls-Royce kids. They tested it on their cars so I was OK using it on the Buick.

 

A local guitar shop stocks it near me, but it is easy to find online. Good stuff.

 

image.jpeg.95404993aa34e002cd300e1d04b9b38d.jpeg

Bernie

Bernie, it seems Mother’s Billet Metal Polish does a fantastic job. I was given a secret formula for upkeep of the paint shine. To begin have your painted surface clean and dry. Next, take a damp microfiber cloth and apply just a little of Mother’s Billet Metal Polish and buff out with a dry micro fiber cloth. Next, apply Meguirers Tech 2 ( in the purple bottle ) to the paint surface with micro fiber cloth. Buff out with dry clean micro fiber cloth. Now, when you come back from a drive with the car wipe it off with. DAMP cloth or give the paint a once over with one of those California style dust mops. Mr. Seafoam gave the tip and went on to say he has not had to wash his car with soapy water since 1967. I’ve heard the normal way of bucket washing a collector car with water is not the best way for fear of rust.

Red Riviera Bob

Posted

Well, that's quite a secret.

 

On the last part, about bucket washing, I haven't done a traditional wash on a car in over 15 years. And I am conscious about the dew point in my garage, as well. I still use a hose and bucket with generous application of Westley's, as well as 800 to 1000 grit wet or dry on the tires, whitewalls, and exposed undercoating, like in the wheelwells get scrubbed with a brush.I Amorall the exposed undercoating but don't use it anywhere else.

 

The real secret is to just take steps to care for the car.  People who care for there car generally have better looking, longer lasting cars than those who don't.

 

Bernie

Posted
33 minutes ago, Red Riviera Bob said:

Gents, here they are finished...at least for awhile.

Red Riviera Bob

 

Wheels and tires look great Bob!

 

Good job!

Posted
On 11/3/2017 at 1:24 PM, 60FlatTop said:

Well, that's quite a secret.

 

On the last part, about bucket washing, I haven't done a traditional wash on a car in over 15 years. And I am conscious about the dew point in my garage, as well. I still use a hose and bucket with generous application of Westley's, as well as 800 to 1000 grit wet or dry on the tires, whitewalls, and exposed undercoating, like in the wheelwells get scrubbed with a brush.I Amorall the exposed undercoating but don't use it anywhere else.

 

The real secret is to just take steps to care for the car.  People who care for there car generally have better looking, longer lasting cars than those who don't.

 

Bernie

Bernie,Yes, Sir I agree 100%. The Tires and wheels make sense to bucket wash. In this part of the country undercoating is not as popular as it once was. Seems like the Ziebart treatment for undercoating would eventually let in moisture and rust would take place without the owner seeing it happen. I wash the underside of my cars with a power washer connected to a waterbroom as soon I can after the roads have been salted.

ive been watching YouTube videos on how to detail an engine and many other car care topics and the videos are helpful. There are some pretty nifty tricks out there I️ had no clue.

Red Riviera Bob

Posted
On 10/21/2017 at 12:12 PM, Paul K. said:

 

I used to think yes, but now no. I recently used some on a nearly scratch free stainless radiator shell to clean the metal. Unfortunately, it instilled some fine scratches.  Mother's has a metal polish which I THINK is less abrasive

Paul, I use the Mothers Billet Metal Polish with great results. Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish works good too. I have not tried Simichrome.

RRB

Posted
On ‎10‎/‎18‎/‎2017 at 2:59 PM, Red Riviera Bob said:

JFrame, there is a gent in Philadelphia could get you the 4 round stock wheels if you can wait. I just got two stock wheels with holes in them to bolt up up the cast aluminium rims I'm cleaning up. Private message me and I'll get you details if you interested enough to investigate possibilities.

 Red Riviera Bob

I actually bought two Formula V wheels from a friend with the 802 code, meaning 66-67 drum brake wheels. Problem is, they turned out to be "wobbly" according to the tire guy. Going to try to spin them up at work and see how wobbly they are. Guy I got em from used them on a 62 Buick for years with no issues. If I can't find anything else, I'll let you know, and thanks!

Posted

I've got a couple of matching sets. They'd be okay for 20/20 vision - that's 20 feet at 20 mph.  But they'd be great candidates for refurbishing though.  Probably cost a bit to ship from 66218. They're 802's with the register rings removed. 

 

To square away a previous comment. The register rings are used to make the wheels hub centric, not hold them away from the brake drum.  The ID of the register ring is just big enough to fit over the OD of the front and rear hubs.  No way to bolt them on without being centered.

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