lrlforfun

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About lrlforfun

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/07/1957

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Castro Valley, CA

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  • Biography
    A retired hot air salesman

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  1. lrlforfun

    First Gen Riv Bumpers

    OK Riviera People: I happen to be an expert on First-Gen front bumpers. Yes, 63 and 64 Front Bars and lower vanances are identical, 65 are different. You can tell the 65 bar from the slight dip on top to clear the headlights. The valances on the 63 and 64 have a PAIR of holes on the side flange. Only one on the 65 and it is totally a different fit. All the guards are the same, they're marked R and L. All this is common knowledge. A secret? Make sure the bumper fits perfectly before going off half cocked to the plater. Many have been poorly repaired and replated and don't fit very well. Many get replated and the bends are off. Been there, done that. Next. It's a 2 man job installing them. When you're ready....first have the nuts and bolts slick as a whistle so you can move them with your fingers in the alignment process. Next. have a pal who REALLY understands how the bumper is supposed to line up. I have seen guys put tons of dough in First-Gens and the chrome doesn't line up and it looks terrible. Mitch
  2. OK Riviera People: I really need to get nasty here. Carb King nailed it. A diagnostic procedure is the only way to begin fixin' anything. The question is ALWAYS...."what is the diagnostic procedure"???????? I'm sayin' it and I'm owning it....anyone who suggests anything except this doesn't know what the hell they are talking about and lowers the bar for all. Mitch
  3. lrlforfun

    64 Body Lines

    OK Riviera People: This silver car seems like it's been for sale for way too long. I guess the price ain't even close to right. Mitch
  4. lrlforfun

    64 Body Lines

    OK Riviera People: The part that sticks out. Maybe......there's crap in between the skin and the shell? Maybe the T bolt is spinning and not getting the bite that would suck the skin into the shell? Maybe it's got new rubber ant it ain't squished right? Maybe the new rubber has too much glue or is not fastened properly? Could be a lotta different reasons and perhaps a combination. I'm gonna guess that a good body guy could figure it out pdq. Mitch
  5. OK Riviera People: The A Body folks must be under some kinda spell when it comes to the OPGI outfit. The good? They're nice as pie over the phone. Their catalog cover is sexier than most men's magazines. I really hate a tease though. The bad? They don't know their product. Their products stink. Their products are grossly overpriced. STAY AWAY, Mitch
  6. OK Riviera People: I love these cars. Why? Because they are 64 Rivs. They're cheep and they are junk, the kinda junk I love. Makin' mud pies is right up my alley. Mitch
  7. OK Riviera People: If someone could get this for cheep....I'm guessin' 5-6 Grand they could nibble on it and have a decent looking car with out being buried. Blow it apart and media blast this thing and the cash register is gonna ring off the hook. Another overpriced heap in a sea of overpriced heaps. If the seller needed the dough it would have been gone a year and a half ago. Mitch
  8. lrlforfun

    WTB 1959-60 oil pump

    OK Joe: Would be nice as your location. Why do I ask? I have 10 of them but i DO NOT ship. Mitch
  9. OK Riviera People: Most aren't aware of this but.....the custom options for 64 and 65 feature a much thicker vinyl than the standard. Mitch
  10. OK Riviera People: The higher the price the more ya wanna pick it apart. Price 'em on the money and they're gone in 72 hours. Wanna wait then ya might be able to get more....very little more. Now, if the seller totes the note then, name your price. There was a really good 64 on the ebay i was droolin' for sold for $9,900 a few months ago but mama says , NO MORE CARS". Mitch
  11. lrlforfun

    1966 alumunim brake drum

    OK Pete: Shoot me a PM and I'll give you the skinny. Mitch
  12. lrlforfun

    1966 alumunim brake drum

    OK Pete: I got one. We still friends? Mitch
  13. OK 65 GS: The door skins is the first obstacle. Back in the day the screws spun off with ease, Today? Anything but....so CAREFULLY remove the door shell and before re-installation make sure all the nuts and bolts are free as a bird. Also, make sure the T bolts don't spin. If you're careful you can peen the pockets without denting the outside. There are probably other methods others have tried successfully. Next? Make sure your fuzzies are not gonna scratch your glass. Removing that top stainless piece is a very tedious job and replacing it even more so. The removal of the door glass is pretty straightforward. Clean all tracks and rollers. #000 Steel wool with some solvent works great. Clean and lube the regulators with your favorite product. Lithium grease is what I used. Check for bent and worn components while apart. Re-install the glass and adjust. It's pretty easy. If your bottom frame has a trailing arm get that going. If not forget about it as they're like wisdom teeth. The stops and adjustments give wiggle room. If you have the bottom frame the glass sets in don't mess with it. If you need to, change glass and frame....BE CAREFUL as the glass can shatter with the wrong pressure. Earlier GM''s had a metal rail that was prone to rust. Not the case with the Riv set-up. The vent window assembly can be really tough. Remove and make sure the regulator is free, check to see if the backing plate is secured (that IS peened from the factory) and grease it up. if the backing plate is wobilly you can drill out the peened part and install sheet metal screws. it works great. Finally....the vent glass. The factory provided a thin ribbon around the perimeter of the glass where it goes into the channel. This often expands and the window will bind against the vertical post. Make sure it's closes freely. if the glass has separated from the ribbon and channel ya gotta remove the glass, clean out the chrome channel, get new ribbon and re-glue and install. That part takes skill, as a glass man has years of experience. The back 1/4 windows need to be at a certain height (I think about half mast (but don't really remember) in order to come out and in easily. I believe the shop manual has some pertinent info on this. The top rail attached to the frame assembly is held in with Phillip screws. Pray they come out easy or it's a big pain. Not rocket science but ya gotta drill 'em out if they're stripped. Basically, just remember how they came out and re-install. There are several adjusting nuts attacked to the rails and they need to be adjusted as needed. When the assembly is out you can vacuum out and blow out with air all the debris from 50 years and if it's a warm day hitting it with some water pressure is also helpful. As far as the date codes...I never cared about that stuff in my life but if it's important to you...go with it. It's a job but the results of having full tint are dramatic. Full tint takes even a 53 Cranbrook up about 100 notches. Mitch
  14. OK Dick: I have the almost identical twin to your 63. Burgundy with white custom leather, power windows, vents and a/c. it's straight, original paint and no exterior rot. The nearest I can figure is some gal walked into the showroom and just picked out the color combo and started checking almost every box there was. This combo would be the poster car for answering the question...."if you were to order a 63 Riv, what color and options would you choose"? Oh, I must add that my car has no motor, no transmission or trunk floor and it needs everything you can think of including more than that. Mitch
  15. OK 65 VGS: I did a full tint swap on my green w/white standard interior 65. Lotta work for the first time. Those quarter windows? I've taken 'em in and out at least a dozen times and i'm still all thumbs. The trailing arms on the door glass? I seem to have acquired a small collection of broken ones. Mitch