My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

[JV Puleo]

The bearing is splash lubricated. Maximum rpm is probably around 1000 since the cam runs at 1/2 the crank speed. The camshaft is new and is surface hardened and ground all over. I was careful to mike that first. I intend to bore the bearing .001 over and will put in an internal oil groove and oil pockets (or maybe just one pocket depending on the exact location front to back) or I may make a spiral oil groove in it - something I haven't done before. That is one of the experiments I've been working on, with a special oversize spindle gear for the lathe so I can make a very long thread (something like 2 turns per inch). I also have a design of a machine that will put figure 8 grooves on the inside of a bearing but that may be too much to undertake right now although I was thinking of building it to do the main bearings. That said, the engine is along way from final assembly so once this is "done" I can still fiddle with it.

 

I hadn't thought of it but now that you mention it I probably could give it oil pressure. That might be a good idea although the surface speed will be much lower than it would be if the cam had bearing journals that were larger than the lobes and the RPMs higher. I thought of doing that but it seems to harbor too many attendant risks. These split bearings are a chore to make and I wouldn't have minded if I could have avoided it.

Edited January 1, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[edinmass]

When re-engineering anything with splash lubrication there is a high possibility of causing problems that can’t be foreseen. Often times there is a cup, recess, or other groove cut into the top or side to allow oil in, and with engine modifications often times the original design of some small item that is unknown and impossible to see will change the way oil splashes and cause a lack of oil failure. Guess how we learned this problem............the upgrade we did was designed by an experienced engineer and rebuilder..........and still failed with modern oil. If possible and not terribly difficult, I would run pressure to it. For splash, your going to need to run it with more clearance. As I’m sure you are aware, oils primary function is cooling..........and lubrication is secondary. That bearing location in you block doesn’t look like it is “over lubricated” with a splash system. Ed

[JV Puleo]

I'll be surprised is something doesn't fail. I've simply made too many parts to presume that all of them will work as intended. I'm just hoping that whatever does fail doesn't cause catastrophic damage. I do think that can be avoided though or I wouldn't be doing this.

 

Edited January 1, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[edinmass]

I think you will be all right, you just have to try and think of 100 different problems that can pop up. Your skills are excellent, and taking your time is a big advantage. If you want to run a brass car hard, which almost everyone does, weather they know they are or not is another issue.........taking advantage of a pressurized system is a great option. You don’t need a huge oil supply there.......and the up side of pressure with all you modifications would be a plus. Modern oils will also be a huge benefit. I think running you engine for ten or fifteen hours at half to two thirds throttle before you try driving the car would make thins much easier to sort and deal with. 

[JV Puleo]

That is pretty much the plan...though I'm not enthusiastic about building an engine test stand and I'm a long way from being able to use the chassis. Actually, the chassis cannot be moved from where it is without picking it up. If there were wheels on it it, it wouldn't fit through the door.

 

In it's final form, the bolt that holds the bearing in place will have a 1/4 or 5/16 extension on the end that will go into a reamed hole in the bearing. The original intention was to make certain the bearing could not shift forward or back but I don't see why I can't drill the center (very small) and feed oil through it. The only question is how to connect the oil line to the top end of the bolt...maybe a small banjo fitting like those used on brakes. I'll think of something.

 

Thinking constantly of what can go wrong is one of my habits...it often keeps me awake at night but I admit it has also allowed me to dodge a lot of bullets. What would use for a rear main seal material? I'm thinking of either graphite rope or felt and I'd prefer felt as that was a common and effective seal at the time. I am wondering how it works with low oil pressure as my experience with felt seals is mostly on non pressurized systems...keeping in mind that the pressure will not exceed 15 lbs and may well be lower.

Edited January 1, 2020 by JV Puleo
typo (see edit history)

[Terry Harper]

Hello Joe,

 

Thinking about your pressurized system... I know there were a number of cars with just

a spiral groove to pull the oil back in. I believe Austin Healey "Bug Eye" Sprite comes to mind.

 

On the Mains and Rod bearing shims will you have the babbitt tips? These are supposed to

keep oil where its needed. Here you can see one of the tips and the round hole and slot that

provides a mechanical lock to the shim. There appears to be a punch mark to upset the babbitt.

 

Don't loose sleep. Its only an engine. As one person once said "Do something. You can always fix something but you

can't fix nothing." 

 

Greatly enjoying watching progress!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[JV Puleo]

I hadn't really thought much about shims and I may very well do without them.We'll have to see how the shells come out before I consider that. RR used quite thick shims with the edge Babbetted and I've always wondered what the idea was. The only way you could adjust them is with a surface grinder. I think this car had brass shims at one point but it was obvious that someone, not the seller but whoever he got it from - just slapped the engine more or less together to sell it. I don't really know if all the engine parts I got with it came from the same car.

 

I did make more progress on the bearing today. I flattened the faces. They were quite good but it would be impossible for the slitting saw to give a really flat surface. First I worked them on the bench top with 120 sandpaper. (The bench top is an old surface plate - not accurate enough to serve as one but good enough for this purpose.

 

 

Then finished on the lapping plate. Since they were quite good to begin with so this didn't take hours.

 

 

Then I tapped the holes in the lower half.

 

 

When that was done I lapped the top half and drilled the holes out to clearance size for the cap screws.

 

 

The most fussy bit was counterboring the holes. This has to be done so that the thickness of the bottom of the bearing half at the hole is .150. I may have come up a bit short. If so, I can deepen them a bit more after the diameter has been reduced. I must have 40 counterbores and never the exact one I want. There is very little room to spare with this bearing...

 

 

Nevertheless, it went together just fine.

 

 

Last, I made a tool for indicating the bearing in the 4-jaw chuck...it is round to the small dimension of the now oblong hole and should be tight. I must have measured incorrectly because I hit the measurement I was aiming for right on but it's a few thousandths too small. By now, it was approaching the end of the day so I thought I'd quit while I was ahead and finish tomorrow. I'll put a knurl on this to raise the surface slightly and I think that will suffice.

 

Edited January 1, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[Luv2Wrench]

Do you have a feed rate on your mill for a 3 hour cut or did you have to advance that manually?   Probably a silly question but now that I have a mill that I'll hopefully be using this year, just about any post with a mill in it catches my curiosity. 

[JV Puleo]

For the 5" cutter with 40 Teeth, 65 RPM and a feed rate of 4.8 inches per minute. I think I used 3-/12 inches per minute but the cuts are extremely small, maybe .025 to .030. I have no idea what sort of cut will work though I assume they could have been bigger. But, the small cuts give a smooth surface and clean slot so anything that you might gain by increasing the cut may well be lost if the two slots are a little rougher. One of my problems is that I've never seen it done by anyone who knew how to do it so I'm making it up as I go. Also, I'd rather take the time and know it will come out good than push the envelope and have to do it over.

 

It was all done with the power feeds. There are on-line calculators for cutter speed and feed rates that  I've found very helpful. The first time I used a slitting saw I ran it much too fast and shattered the saw...an experience I'd rather not repeat.

[JV Puleo]

2 hours ago, Terry Harper said:

Hello Joe,

 

Thinking about your pressurized system... I know there were a number of cars with just

a spiral groove to pull the oil back in. I believe Austin Healey "Bug Eye" Sprite comes to mind.

 

Not being an engineer, I've no idea how you would calculate doing that. The engine does not appear to have any seal but it had a drip oiler that added oil in very small amounts so the grooves in the crankshaft that directed it back into the engine were probably sufficient - though again, we don't know how much they leaked in period. I'm guessing they not only leaked but laid down a cloud of oily smoke. One of the period comments you see consistently is that most people over-oiled their engines - oily exhaust being a lot cheaper to deal with than melted bearings.

[Terry Harper]

Hello Joe,

 

I did a bit more research out of curiosity. MG used the scroll and slinger setup for quite awhile.

However, for it to work well it requires tight clearances. (.003 to .006 for the MGA)

 

Running, the system works quite well but will drip when shutdown. On the MG its actually threads with a form that

has the crest forming a flat and a sizable radius forming the root .

 

The disk to the left of the scroll is the oil slinger.

 

 

I almost think my Wisconsin uses something similar but I would have to check. I remember there

were no seals or packing.

 

Not sure how you would retrofit an existing crank for a setup like this.

 

T.

Edited January 2, 2020 by Terry Harper (see edit history)

[JV Puleo]

Heldt illustrates something similar in 1910. I can't think of any way to retro-fit an old crank either. My feeling is that I should use whatever works, that I can fit and is appropriate for a low pressure, relatively slow turning engine. A google search turns up several references to felt seals in International Harvester tractors but, of course, the discussions always presume the reader is thinking in terms of the same engine. So far I've found nothing in the way of engineering data on older seal systems.

[alsfarms]

Hello Joe,

I will send over a few pictures and some direct information that we used to install a felt seal cartridge into the rear main seal area of the Locomobile block and it does stop oil migration out the rear main!  I also did add full pressure to my Locomobile and have it set to run at about 25 lbs when hot and with modern oils.

Regards,

Al

[JV Puleo]

I put a knurl on the centering tool. This didn't work quite as well as I'd hoped but it did work. In fact, after it was knurled it was too tight.

 

 

It centered but I suspect it was still off center a little.

 

 

I started boring. Because the hole isn't round and I'm limited by the diameter to the size of the boring bar , it deflected quite a bit. I stopped in the middle of this operation to readjust the piece in the chuck. That corrected the problem and I bored the hole round.

 

 

Once it was round, I drilled and reamed to 1" + .001.

 

 

 

Then turned the OK to match the aluminum piece I'd made. I rechecked this four or five times to make certain I had the right number. Oddly enough, it turned out to be 1.851 - exactly .001 larger than the dimension I was aiming at so apparently my shop make boring bar adjustment tool is better than I'd thought.

 

 

I hit the dimension I was aiming at dead on. Here's the finished bearing.

 

 

And in the engine. Tomorrow I will make an aluminum cap for the top side so that the bolt will be pushing against the entire saddle rather than in one spot. I'm taking Edinmass's suggestion to run an oil line to the bearing. If it has oil pressure, I doubt an additional oil groove will matter.

 

[Luv2Wrench]

My apologies if you mentioned this earlier... did the casting for the center cam bearing break and that's the reason for your support?  Looks like a nice solution to the problem if that's what it is.

[JV Puleo]

Jeff...if you go back to page 58 you can see what was there. The saddle was Babbitt lined and there was a spring loaded cap that pressed down on it - also Babbitt lined. Aside from the fact that I have no idea how you would renew the Babbitt in that spot, I thought it was a cheesy center bearing...certainly prone to bounce as pressure increases and decreases on the cam shaft depending on which valves it is opening. I never liked it and spent a good deal of time trying to think of a way to replace it with something more substantial. Based on the figures in Heldt, it still does not have enough cam bearing surface but this is the best I can do.

[edinmass]

If you pressure feed it I would run it at 1 1/2 to 2 with the oil grooves, 1 is too tight for me,.,......splash or fed.

[JV Puleo]

1 hour ago, edinmass said:

If you pressure feed it I would run it at 1 1/2 to 2 with the oil grooves, 1 is too tight for me,.,......splash or fed.

 

Thanks Ed. I wouldn't have guessed that much. I will leave it as it is for the time being and hone the bearing out when the cam is fitted...if .002 is ok that makes alignment all the easier.

[alsfarms]

Joe, I just re read this full page 60 of your cam bearing redesign.  What a novel approach to an other wise "tough" situation!  I share the thoughts of Ed, pressure oiling will be a good thing...in my opinion.  You have addressed the cam center bearing as well as how to keep it in place.  Are you going to install an alignment dowel to assist with keeping the bronze bearing aligned or are you going to rely on the four positions of the clamping bolts?

Al

[JV Puleo]

Thanks Alan. That is an easy question to answer. I'm making a cap to go over the top half of the bearing to distribute the pressure of the clamping bolt more evenly. The bolt will have a 5/16" projection on the end that will pass through the cap and into the bearing about 1/4" - more than enough to keep it in place but nowhere near enough to come in contact with the camshaft. I will drill a 1/8" hole through the center of the bolt. The head of the bolt will be fitted with a small banjo fitting (Mike West is sending me a couple Franklin brake system fittings). The oil will come from the line that feeds the center main bearing - another fussy job I've yet to do because it involves drilling a hole through the crankcase into the bearing.

[John S.]

JV Puleo, I always admire the time, patience, and the care that is going into this restoration. Thanks, John

[1912Staver]

On 1/2/2020 at 3:43 PM, JV Puleo said:

Jeff...if you go back to page 58 you can see what was there. The saddle was Babbitt lined and there was a spring loaded cap that pressed down on it - also Babbitt lined. Aside from the fact that I have no idea how you would renew the Babbitt in that spot, I thought it was a cheesy center bearing...certainly prone to bounce as pressure increases and decreases on the cam shaft depending on which valves it is opening. I never liked it and spent a good deal of time trying to think of a way to replace it with something more substantial. Based on the figures in Heldt, it still does not have enough cam bearing surface but this is the best I can do.

 

A spring loaded cap certainly does sound like a problem waiting to happen. That sort of solution might work fine on a piece of industrial machinery turning a couple of hundred R.P.M. but seems unsuitable for a car engine.  I am sure your version will be more satisfactory. Great work ! Definitely bringing one back from the dead.

 

Greg

[JV Puleo]

I certainly agree with that. Pressure on the cam is not uniform. It varies with which valves are opening, with the exhaust valves generating more pressure than the intake valves. I can't see how it could have avoided bouncing. But, it was purposely de-tuned to keep the RPM's down and no attempt was made to balance the reciprocating parts. The pistons and rods were outrageously heavy.

 

Unfortunately, I've no progress to report today. I spent the entire day modifying a gear for the foundry next door. The best part is that it's done and came out just about perfect and I'll trade the job for the water pump castings. Actually, I'd have fixed it just to be a good neighbor but it just so happens I gave them the water pump patterns the same day the gear broke.

Edited January 4, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[hursst]

Quite impressive work.  I can't even comprehend the knowledge, skill, effort, and attention to detail involved to repair all these issues on such ancient engines.  Very intriguing work.

[Luv2Wrench]

1 hour ago, hursst said:

Quite impressive work.  I can't even comprehend the knowledge, skill, effort, and attention to detail involved to repair all these issues on such ancient engines.  Very intriguing work.

^^ this... I've gotten my feet wet enough in machine work to know it is even harder than he makes it look.

[JV Puleo]

This will be the cap that goes over the cam bearing. The first step was to bore it out to .001 under the OD of the bearing. This is so it will be tight and "stick" to the bearing. That will make assembly a little easier and aid in heat dispersal.

 

 

Then the outside was turned. This measurement isn't critical but I aimed for a wall thickness of 1/2". Because the ID is an unusual size I had to use the 3-jaw chuck and grip it from the inside. After the OD was turned I flipped the piece around and trimmed off the excess.

 

 

Then milled 1/2 of it away. There was a certain amount of guesswork in this because I don't know if the radius of the saddle is actually 1/2. I also had to mill off one side because I've nothing like 1/2" on the inside of the bearing next to the wall of the crankcase. I spent quite a bit of time fiddling with this to fit it.

 

 

After several attempts, I finally got it about as close as it is going to get.

 

 

Now I'll have to fit a piece of 1" shafting in to see how close it has come...

 

 

It can't be off my much and I can still remove.001 from the bore.

 

 

Edited January 7, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[JV Puleo]

The Mitchell job is on hold for a few days while I wait for some materials to come in. In this case, I didn't order the stuff in advance, largely because I hadn't made up my mind what to order. I did knock the 1" to 3/4" bushings out of the end pieces and try a piece of 1" shafting in the bearings. As I anticipated, it's fine. A tiny bit tight but that can be addressed by honing the bushings when I put the real camshaft in.

 

 

I'm taking advantage of the down time to clean up this bench-top drill press. I did someone a favor a few months ago and, when I refused payment, he graciously gave me this. It came with a tapping head that I've removed and will fit it with a chuck. I suspect it will have a lot less run out than the old one Ive been using.

 

 

Everything slides on the column so this is one of the few occasions when I've taken advantage of the long bed on my lathe. This is not going to be a restoration - I just want it reasonably clean and all the adjustments working.

 

 

I didn't quite finish but it's close.

 

 

The two pieces on the table are a planetary gear set from a Ford transmission. One future, possible project is fitting a chain-drive starter anticipating the day when I may not be up to cranking. Planetary gears are something of a mystery to me so I wanted something to experiment with and didn't want to spend real money on it. I think these set me back $25. I don't want a ring gear on the flywheel - there is no way that can be disguised - but chain-driven starters with a one-way clutch were used c. 1914–1915 so if I incorporate one I want it to be in the style of the period. I have seen an early Peerless (1909 I think) fitted with a starter during its working lifetime. I doubt anyone would have done it for a Mitchell but as long as I keep within my "working life of the car" I'll be satisfied.

[JV Puleo]

 

I finished up the new drill press this morning. After I took this picture the new chuck arrived. I also have two small parts coming. I am determined that this will not turn into another project so rather than start making parts I bit the bullet and bought them. I did test it once the wiring was done and it seems to run as well as you can expect it to.

 

 

When I finished that I went up to the office to check my emails and found I had once from a friend in Australia who is assembling another 1910 Model T Mitchell. He'd seen the water pump patterns in this thread and asked if I could get him a set. So, I took the impeller pattern next door anticipating that they hadn't gotten to my parts yet but, in fact, both pieces were done. So...I left the impeller and asked them to make another set.

 

 

I really wish I'd thought of this to begin with. I could have saved weeks of work. Both pieces will be drilled and reamed to 1-1/4". Then, all the surfaces and the grooves that locate the center section will be done off the center holes. In that way, the two pieces have to be concentric.

 

 

I got to the point of starting on the front plate but that one has to be quite precise so I thought it better to hold that for tomorrow morning. It was 4:30 by then so I probably wouldn't have finished in any case.

 

[JV Puleo]

I turned the small end of the water pump plate down to 2" and faced it off. I'm not sure why the finish is slightly off. It may have something to do with the heat treating or, more likely, my choice of lathe tool but the need to get a perfectly square intersection between the face and the projection limits what I can use. It's actually a lot flatter than it looks in this picture. In fact, you can hardly feel any roughness. In any case, about 90% of this face doesn't show.

 

 

I then faced off the inside. This came out a lot better but I was able to use a lathe tool I know puts a very good finish on aluminum. This surface is more critical since it is on the inside of the pump.

 

 

Then I turned the end plate for the inlet side round. The finished dimension will be reached with both plates screwed together but I need this one round in order to indicate it and set it up in the mill to bore and thread the hole for the inlet pipe.

 

 

And, as is my habit, I'm including a few improvements I thought of after I'd finished the other pump. The overall thickness is the same as the previous model but in this case I'm counterboring for the brass plate that covers the seal. I thought of this because the circular section in the middle isn't perfectly round. In any case, this should look a lot better and the paper gasket will be completely invisible under the cover plate.

 

 

It was more difficult to do than I'd anticipated...this is one job that came out better than it had any right to.

 

 

Both plates machined to size. Now I have to put in the grooves that align the center section, the holes for the screws and the main inlet passage. That's all milling machine work so I'll attempt that tomorrow.

 

Edited January 12, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[JV Puleo]

I did the most difficult part today, milling the slots that the center of the pump fits into. The last time I milled them first and then turned the center to fit the slots. That is much easier than doing it the other way around but I don't want to make the center over so I gave this a try. I put one end of the previous pump in the mill and lined the 3/16 end mill up with the slot. That is one of those things that is much easier said than done when a being few thousandths off can spell disaster. Naturally, I though of a better way of doing it after I'd already started.

 

 

I milled the slot and tried it...and it was almost - but not quite what I wanted. But, rather than waste a lot of time and start over I decided to try lapping the two pieces. The lack of perfect fit may have been due to the burrs left by the end mill. This cast aluminum does not machine exactly like the aluminum plate I used earlier. It was clear that the two pieces would work if I wanted to press them together so I knew they were very close.

 

 

I did the first one in the mill with the table locked in both directions because if it worked I have to do the 2nd plate at exactly the same setting. It did work. I don't know if the poor fit was the result of the burrs or I was a tiny bit off though it was probably a little of both. This took time but the fit, when done, is exceptional. I then did the other plate and lapped that one.

 

 

So, despite it taking 4 hours, I'm pleased with the result.

 

[JV Puleo]

I decided to drill the holes I need using the dividing head rather than the rotary table. The dividing head is more accurate and it is much easier to fit on the drill press table. Because it is so accurate, I took a chance and did the pieces one at a time.

 

 

The front plate was drilled and tapped.

 

 

Then the rear plate was drilled with clearance holes. I then put both pieces on the expanding arbor and tried screws in the holes. They all aligned perfectly.

 

 

With that done, I took the rear plate off and used a counterbore to get a perfectly flat surface around the screw hole. Nuts will go here. I was thinking of using acorn nuts but that would require that the little rods that go between the two plates be very precise. I still haven't made up my mind on this part.

 

 

With the two plates screwed together and on the arbor I turned them down to slightly larger than the flat made by the counterbore. The plates are slightly larger than the old ones. I was never happy with the way they looked as the heads of the cap screws were right on the edge and I'd prefer not to use socket head cap screws for this.

 

 

The last thing I did today was set the inlet plate up in the mill to cut the water inlet channel. In it's finished form it is 1-1/2" deep. It's only 1/4" here - so I have something to start on first ting in the morning.

 

 

Thus far the cast aluminum is milling much smoother than the 6061 I used previously.

[JV Puleo]

I finished milling the water passage. I got a much better finish this time but I was taking small cuts — .025 at a time. I drilled a 5/16 hole to the finished depth in the center of what would be the slot so that each time I made a full revolution of the rotary table I could bring the table up without putting any stress on the end mill. I suspect that the long end mill needed to get in 1-1/2" was deflecting slightly giving me a rough finish. It took a long time to do it this way but the result is far more satisfactory.

 

 

I also turned down the plate that covered the seal on this end to fit the counterbore.

 

 

It lies slightly below the surface to allow room for a paper gasket since the screws that hold it on go into the water passage.

 

 

I also have to cut the flutes in the center portion a little deeper. I set this up but it was approaching 5:00 and I was tired so I won't actually mill it until tomorrow. I don't know why it was a little off — the amount is minuscule but just enough to make the cap screws that held it together bind in 2 out of the 5 holes. The original design actually called for them being deeper but that wasn't necessary the previous time. Rather than cap screws, I'm going to use so 3/16 brass rod threaded on both ends so the threads won't show.

 

 

And, I set the inlet piece up in the dividing head to drill the 4 holes for the screws that attach the plate.

 

Edited January 14, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[alsfarms]

I like your creative use of tooling...to get the job done!  Can't help but notice the glass helper in the picture.  I keep one of those "tools" close at hand also!

Al

Edited January 15, 2020 by alsfarms
clarity (see edit history)

[JV Puleo]

Yes... I was always near sighted and have had to wear glasses for distance since I was about 1. As I've gotten older and my eyes change I've lost that. Now I need help to see things close up and the last time I renewed my driver's license (about 8 weeks ago) I passed the eye test without the glasses.

[alsfarms]

Joe,  You are just like wine and cheese....getting better with age!

🙂

Al

[JV Puleo]

I'm not so sure about that Alan... the one thing that age does have going for it is that I'm free to work on things I like even if my stamina is declining.

I milled the flutes a little deeper in the center section of the pump this morning then tried them with the cap screws. This worked really well.

 

 

Then I drilled and tapped the holes for the cover plate.

 

 

This worked perfectly as well...

 

 

And then, to confirm that everything really did fit, screwed the three parts together.

 

 

Then I set the inlet side plate up to drill and bore a hole for the inlet tube.

 

 

I measured all this very carefully but it looked as if it was off center to the left. After mulling this over I realized that what I was seeing was the variation in the casting.

 

 

I bored the hole out to 1.2" and threaded it 1-1/4-20.

 

 

In all, I got quite a bit done today — or so it seems.

Edited January 15, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[Mike Macartney]

9 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

In all, I got quite a bit done today — or so it seems.

 

Compared to me, and many of the other restoration posts, you seem to get a lot done everyday! First thing, every morning, I look forward to reading your interesting and informative posts.

[JV Puleo]

I'm nearly finished with the inlet side end plate. There was just one more thing to fix. I don't know if it shows in this picture but when i reamed the center hole a portion of the surface came out rough. Unfortunately, this is right where the seal will go. It is the first time that has ever happened to me and I suspect it may have something to do with the heat treating. I've tried turning 6061 that had be heated and cooled and had much the same problem. I put it in the lathe to bore out the rough part.

 

 

I took very small cuts. I'm going to make a sleeve to fit in here but anything I remove weakens the boss in the center of the pump that hods the bearing. for this reason, I made the wall thickness much heavier than I did previously. As it is, I only bored it out to 1.346 so the walls of the sleeve will be less than .050 thick.

 

 

I made the sleeve out of the center test camshaft bushing.

 

 

Leaving a flange on the end that will be cut off. The idea it to make a slip fit. Id thought about a press fit but with a wall thickness so small I'm concerned about either crushing the sleeve or having it contract slightly.

 

 

I hit the dimension right on and inserted it with a piece of ground 1-1/4 shaft in the hole so the two pieces have to align. The "glue" is the Locktite press fit material I used on the water pump. It takes 72 hours to set up completely so I can 't finish this until Sunday afternoon.

 

[Mike Macartney]

10 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

The "glue" is the Locktite press fit material

 

Joe, which is the Loctite type number for this? There seem to be a lot of different types. I was thinking of using something on the bronze bushes that fit in the alloy pistons on my project.

[JV Puleo]

I'll take a look when I get to the shop but it is "press fit." I'm not sure it is appropriate for the pistons though. I expect they will get too hot. Locktite is a great product but it can't withstand high temperatures.

 

Edit: Loctite 635

Edited January 17, 2020 by JV Puleo (see edit history)