bob duffer Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Is it wise to sand blast the inside if a valve cover and oil pan to get rust out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeman Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I don't think it will be a problem as long as you wash the parts very well after to remove any left over grit. Just my $.02Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I think bead blasting or chemical removable would be more advisable. I've noticed that whenever I've sandblasted sheet metal and then try to fill with lead the sheet metal won't "wet" or tin. The lead just beads on the sheet metal. It appears the sharp sand fractures and small sand particles embed themselves in the steel. Would that be a bad thing inside an oil pan? I don't know but I don't think it's a good thing................Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfre Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I do these parts all the time just blow out and wash out with thinner not water.Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pont35cpe Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 When I do a rebuild I have the machine shop vat the sheet-metal along with the block and head, then I paint the insides with red oxide before assembly. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I find electrolysis is better, easier and cheaper. Does not warp the metal or work harden it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 When sandblasting I have learned that washing the parts with water after blasting is the only way to get the sand residue washed out. Thinner doesn't do it. I have a friend who builds race engines and after honing cylinders he washes the cylinders with warm soapy water. He swears it's the only way to get the grit from the ball hone out. He rebuilt the engine in a National championship drag car that held it's record for several years. I've found the paint has adhered much better to my parts since i have been washing them with water. It also helps wash out any Soda residue if you soda blast in your cabinet as well. You could fill them or soak them in evaporust as well. That will clean them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest prs519 Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 This rinse question is interesting. Do those posting comments regarding the superiority of water recall if you are referring to distilled water or hard water? Maybe the polar ions in hard water defend the interface against the less polar distilled water?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Bob,You could just scrape the thick stuff, and then use HOT water with DAWN dish detergent and stiff scrub brushes and scrub pads. This stuff really lifts oil and grease. That is what we used to clean pelicans and gulls who were immersed in crude oil after the BP oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico. Follow-up washing with more water finishes the job.Just my 2 cents... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick8086 Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 (edited) Here is a link for a brush:http://www.partsbrush.com/I have one from them and still use it today... Edited January 5, 2015 by nick8086 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John348 Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I also found soapy warm or hot water to be the best to rinse off after bead blasting. I also blow it dry ASAP! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 When I do a rebuild I have the machine shop vat the sheet-metal along with the block and head, then I paint the insides with red oxide before assembly. TomInteresting. Paint on the INSIDE of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BillP Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Interesting. Paint on the INSIDE of the engine.There was a trend of thinking among race engine builders some years ago that painting the inside allowed easier drain-back. I think some used Glyptol and also some Zolotone. Even if it didn't work, those were a couple of great product names. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintchry Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 We have found that Glyptol works well, but on cast surfaces only. Glyptol does not seem to adhere to metal surfaces (ie valve covers) or maybe we just had a bad experience, but suggest keeping the glyptol only on cast surfaces. C49 suggested a plated surface, if one has that readily available in their area that is a great suggestion. I will admit I am not crazy about powdercoating internally. Just a feeling, have not tried it on valve covers internally, any thoughts on this or results seen from doing this. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 You would probably have really good adhesion on the inside of the valve covers after sand blasting as it leaves a pretty coarse finish. Bead blasting probably wouldn't roughen it up enough as Vintchry mentioned. I have used black beauty in my cabinet for a few years and it leaves a great surface for adhesion especially finished with the water rinse. I use air then throw the parts on my wood stove in the colder months. That really dries them well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 The dry ice blasting covered in another thread sounds like it would be good option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John348 Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 (edited) I never felt comfortible with a painted surface inside of the engine. Some bad adheasion and "flap" of paint is sitting over the pick-up screen. Race engines are torn dorn and inspected, so if a problem is begining it will be corrected. Also I don't think any of us are reving our engines that high or using a high volume pump that exceeds the return flow of oil. I was told many years ago by an ald machienest, "only over build it it if you are going to over use it, otherwise your looking for trouble, it lasted all of these years with no problems" I had used the Glyptal product some 30 years ago, it was part of a spec for an electrical installation I was involved with, it really did not make sense to use in that application also. I found out it is also used on the windings of armatures to protect the wire wraps around the core. Edited January 5, 2015 by Biscayne John (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Painting the interior of engines and gearboxes is pretty common on industrial stuff. Either Glyptol or zinc chromate. The paint seals the casting and also keeps crud from sticking. I know Ferrari paints the indide of their engines - at least in the past. I feel they dont do it for no reason. However, it is an added expense, so it isnt seen on typical production engines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uh6077 Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Blasting steel parts shouldn't cause a problem, just rinse well as others have said. You really need to be careful blasting aluminium and other soft alloys. The media can get embedded in the alloy and then dislodge when the part gets warm and expands. When I blast aluminium I put it in the over for about 10 min @350 then quench it in water to flush out the particles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I have taken apart Harley Davidson engine dating to the early thirties and found red paint on the inside of the crankcase. Evidently used to seal the sand cast aluminum. I don't know what kind of paint. It was worn off in spots but did not peel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I don't understand the value in painting the inside of the valve covers or the oil pan. The inside of the engine block yes. The cast iron is porous, I have seen a couple of blocks that actually weep oil from the inside out.As mentioned above, the inside of some blocks, transmission cases and rear diffs. are coated from the factory for this very reason. I use a PPG product DP40 Any DP product will work, it is only a color difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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