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Everything posted by vintchry

  1. Babcock was in bad shape in 26, they were out of business in July of 28, I have a Babcock body on my 28 Chrysler 62. The museum in Watertown has very little automotive information from Babcock during the automotive age as it had been reorganized in the early 20's. They have quite a bit of info on the horse drawn age but virtually nothing on the automotive. I do have a sales brochure from that era featuring a Dodge. PM me and I will send you a copy. For history Doug (nearchoclatetown) is correct, that is a wonderful site. Rob
  2. Check with Antique Auto Top Hardware, he has a sight on the web and this will get you there. Nice gentleman and his products are excellent. Rob
  3. Kudos to Doug and Steve and all those that contributed display items. The DBC has set a new standard for displays and everyone that wants to future display their club or is a DB enthusiast should be sure to see this display before it ends. Rob
  4. Hi, I am displaying a 1935 Dodge DU with a TJ RIchards Pheaton body and would like to know what price this car would have sold for originally in Australia. I have found nothing on online and thought it would be interesting. American cars sold for $645 for the 2dr to $995 for the limosene or 7pass. Any of our Austrailan friends able to help on this? Thanks Rob
  5. Timing according to the Owners Manual is done off of number 6 Cylinder. Remove your valve covers, bring it up to top dead center on either number one or 6, check your valve tappets, when number 6 is in place correctly the valve lifters will be loose, you now have it timed. You can do it on number 1 but check with the firing order and bring up number 6 to confirm your settings. Obviously set your timing marks according to information Sasha presented. Then make sure on your distributor that the spark when retarded is on pointing on the number 6 lug of the distributor cap. I seldom have success getting hte plug out of the head if it has not been removed for a number of years. Rob
  6. According to a well informed gentleman who was deeply involved at Chrysler in the engineering dept., Chrysler did not have an engineering code for any engine color. What was in the vat was painted on the engine. Basically if your engine was red, a good color would not be a Chevy red or orange but a nice rich red. If as Kaiser points out your engine is supposed to be black with a silver head than the Hirsch colors are fine.
  7. I would be interested in the taillamp you have when you find a correct one. I have none of those left now. That lamp on you car is 26-27 Imperial. Rob you can pm me
  8. This appears to be a 31. They make very nice cars, well built and well engineered. Rob
  9. That looks like a windshield wiper vacuum control switch. It should be mounted vertically under the dash in a hole on the left lower side of the instrument panel. Some cars (28 particularly) the mount in the center of the instrument panel cluster, lower between the choke and manifold heater knobs. Rob
  10. I have some 33 CO engines complete. 34 is not the same but this will be closer for you. If interested, Rob 240-344-2922
  11. These do slide off. No screws, mine were very tight and tough to get both off and on, if I remember correctly it goes up, not forward or backwards. It has been 4 years since mine were off and on so memory remembers the difficulty but not the direction. Rob
  12. Typically these are 1000 Mazda light bulbs. This was a standard number for bulbs regardless of manufacturer. Typically 32/32 candlepower. Model A headlamp bulbs are fine but will not have the ribs. I would suggest a 50/32 candlepower, gives you a better high beam. Old bulbs are around but getting harder to find. Rob
  13. Marty, Try Then and Now in Weymouth, MA, 781-335-8860, Rob
  14. When you get the chance, try driving the car without the floor boards in place, with a good hearing passenger. Sometimes you can isolate the noise to a specific area. Rob
  15. Myers Early Dodge Parts, Rob
  16. The hope is we are getting older, the hobby has always been older with the exception of second or 3rd generations generally. As we age the discretionary money is available. The younger people are either more into the current or newer "antiques" or "tuners". At least some are showing an interest. From the stories out there, the concern is over the lack of interest in owning anything, houses, cars, boats motorcycles etc. The auto industry worried about this almost 10 years ago. Seems to be more of an Urban problem than suburban or rural. Just my thoughts. Rob
  17. Harold, Suggested clearances for an engine that has not been used of .010 and .009 would be my recommendation. This is not the last time you are going to be in there even if all is well the first time around. I take a length of masking tape and put it on the side of the head, then I mark I or E for each valve and the gap I am using on the first one of each. That way you are not guessing midway thru of which is which. In a previous email you mentioned using some old valves over, which is fine and lapped as you have. Did I read correctly you were going to use some Intake in Exhaust locations? I hope not as Exh valves have a different material construction than Intakes, and Intakes will burn quickly in an Exhaust position. Enough to run and check on this engine but not to leave in place. Good luck on this and i hope I have not confused you . Rob
  18. Dan, Unless my eyes are deceiving me, it appears that the headlamps have peaks at the top of the headlamp door. That would make this a 24-early 25 "B" . it also appears to have a one piece windshield, which again depending on the body builder is of the same era. Hope this helps. Rob
  19. When the injection was changed at the dealer it came as a kit with carb, manifold, gas tank, fuel pump, NEW INSTRUMENT cluster, computer, fuel lines and all gaskets. I am not interested in downing this very nice car. This is just information that those of us that had owned these are aware of. It certainly does not diminish this car and was a certified repair by the dealer. Wonderful cars for the modern era. With the change over they make very dependable and usable cars. I wish Matt all the success in find a new home for this car, it will certainly make a new owner a fine vehicle. Some cars were done almost at point of sale, but the kit did not come out in 1981. I am not aware of the date of these kits becoming available. I am sure some one else will know. Again Matt, your points are well taken, it just was the way the factory recommended the change.
  20. Matt, Not to be a naysayer, but if it was factory (Dealer) converted to carb then the mileage is since the conversion. The original mileage should be on a sticker sometimes on the back of the speedometer and sometimes on the door post. I had several of these, including cars running on the original FI. Good cars, underrated and underappreciated. I decided to go older and sold all of the ones I had (4 at one point) . Good luck. Rob
  21. i have a friend looking for the spring on the cowl vent/hood vent door. Apparently he is missing one. Any to be had? Thanks, Rob
  22. I am certain someone has run into this before. On a 39 LaSalle in my shop when shifting from first to second it hangs up. Sometimes finding first or reverse can be a trial. The shop manual does not cover this as a wear factor, only new adjustments and that is not working. What do I look for, it certainly feels that the problem is in the area under the steering column. Any help will be appreciated. Rob
  23. 1933 Chrysler 6-8 if memory serves me right. Rob