vintchry

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About vintchry

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  • Birthday 12/31/1953

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  1. Babcock was in bad shape in 26, they were out of business in July of 28, I have a Babcock body on my 28 Chrysler 62. The museum in Watertown has very little automotive information from Babcock during the automotive age as it had been reorganized in the early 20's. They have quite a bit of info on the horse drawn age but virtually nothing on the automotive. I do have a sales brochure from that era featuring a Dodge. PM me and I will send you a copy. For history Doug (nearchoclatetown) is correct, that is a wonderful site. Rob
  2. Check with Antique Auto Top Hardware, he has a sight on the web and this will get you there. Nice gentleman and his products are excellent. Rob
  3. Kudos to Doug and Steve and all those that contributed display items. The DBC has set a new standard for displays and everyone that wants to future display their club or is a DB enthusiast should be sure to see this display before it ends. Rob
  4. Hi, I am displaying a 1935 Dodge DU with a TJ RIchards Pheaton body and would like to know what price this car would have sold for originally in Australia. I have found nothing on online and thought it would be interesting. American cars sold for $645 for the 2dr to $995 for the limosene or 7pass. Any of our Austrailan friends able to help on this? Thanks Rob
  5. Timing according to the Owners Manual is done off of number 6 Cylinder. Remove your valve covers, bring it up to top dead center on either number one or 6, check your valve tappets, when number 6 is in place correctly the valve lifters will be loose, you now have it timed. You can do it on number 1 but check with the firing order and bring up number 6 to confirm your settings. Obviously set your timing marks according to information Sasha presented. Then make sure on your distributor that the spark when retarded is on pointing on the number 6 lug of the distributor cap. I seldom have success getting hte plug out of the head if it has not been removed for a number of years. Rob
  6. According to a well informed gentleman who was deeply involved at Chrysler in the engineering dept., Chrysler did not have an engineering code for any engine color. What was in the vat was painted on the engine. Basically if your engine was red, a good color would not be a Chevy red or orange but a nice rich red. If as Kaiser points out your engine is supposed to be black with a silver head than the Hirsch colors are fine.
  7. I would be interested in the taillamp you have when you find a correct one. I have none of those left now. That lamp on you car is 26-27 Imperial. Rob you can pm me
  8. This appears to be a 31. They make very nice cars, well built and well engineered. Rob
  9. That looks like a windshield wiper vacuum control switch. It should be mounted vertically under the dash in a hole on the left lower side of the instrument panel. Some cars (28 particularly) the mount in the center of the instrument panel cluster, lower between the choke and manifold heater knobs. Rob
  10. I have some 33 CO engines complete. 34 is not the same but this will be closer for you. If interested, Rob 240-344-2922
  11. These do slide off. No screws, mine were very tight and tough to get both off and on, if I remember correctly it goes up, not forward or backwards. It has been 4 years since mine were off and on so memory remembers the difficulty but not the direction. Rob
  12. Typically these are 1000 Mazda light bulbs. This was a standard number for bulbs regardless of manufacturer. Typically 32/32 candlepower. Model A headlamp bulbs are fine but will not have the ribs. I would suggest a 50/32 candlepower, gives you a better high beam. Old bulbs are around but getting harder to find. Rob
  13. Marty, Try Then and Now in Weymouth, MA, 781-335-8860, Rob
  14. When you get the chance, try driving the car without the floor boards in place, with a good hearing passenger. Sometimes you can isolate the noise to a specific area. Rob