1957buickjim Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Would like to replace my brake lines on my 1957 Buick Special. Wondering if there is any benefit to using Stainless vice OEM Steel on the replacements? Any comments welcome. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Stainless requires more expensive fittings & tubing and is more dificult to work bending etc. Yeah they look better, especially if you polish the tubing...for that hot rod look.I would stick with steel to make it more cost effective and easier. Especially if this is the first time you will do brake lines; you will make some mistakes.... Either way, the important thing is to make the brakes work.My 2 cents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 If you're going to build them yourself, the normal steel would probably work better, as mentioned. BUT if you can get them already bent, from an appropriate vendor, then shipping might be a problem as they'd need to be crated "as produced", which could kick-in "oversize" freight rates.GM used to service the brake line tubing in 25' rolls, unbent, unflared, etc. Perhaps the auto supplies can supply similar product? IF you get them pre-bent, then stainless steel can be a better option. As I understand it, these stainless steel lines can be shipped in smaller containers, but when you unpack then, they'll spring back into shape.Stainless steel might be the higher-end, once-done-forever way to do things, but if you keep reasonably fresh high-quality brake fluid in the system (even flushing it every few years), then the internal corrosion you might be trying to avoid would be highly minimized, I suspect. IF road salt on the exterior of the lines might be an issue, then possibly painting the steel lines (prior to installation) with a high-quality abrasion-resistant enamel could be an option, too. Of course, if there are any protective coils on the existing lines, they'd need to be transferred to the new lines.Just some thoughts . . .NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 My 'NAPA store sells coated steel lines for this work. To make the lines look original you'll need a flaring tool so you can cut the lines to size. Also in the 60's GM started using different sized connectors on the portioning block probably to prevent putting the lines on th block incorrectly. I don't think the 57 has this but if you you'll want to reuse the original ends and then form new double V flares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BJM Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 I'd go SS and get them prebent. SS has superior anti corrosion properties and brake lines can and usually do corrode from the inside out.Virtually all new cars use SS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dei Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 I have used SS on my 58 Buick and my 78 Chev 4X4 when I used that for snow plowing. Bought these sets from a company called In Line Tube (Michigan). They come complete and pre-bent with all fittings (other than the T block). Admittedly there was some tweaking to get one or two lines to fit but generally was happy that I was able to do it myself. They are pricey for sure but I felt it was worth the investment & piece of mind to not worry about the steel lines rusting at some point. Do it once, do it right and drive with confidence. One might argue SS is not original and not sure how that goes when being judged. My cars are drivers and just not concerned about judging so........ this works for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 JimOEM steel will outlast you if put on a car that will lead a sheltered life. Nobody can see your pretty SS lines anyway. SS cannot be double flared with hand tools (the one set I bought had one flare nut installed backwards...no big deal, just cut off the flare, reverse the nut and reflare...NOT!)Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 I used a stainless set from Inline Tube on my 63 Riviera. I felt it was reasonably priced, it fit very well, and there were no shipping problems. It also included all the factory coil reinforcement areas which would be tough to do from scratch. If you really want to build the tubes yourself consider using Cunifer tubing, bends and flares as easy as copper but does not have the work hardening problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 I used SS from inline as well...Everything else TexRiv said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share Posted March 4, 2011 That's kind of why I started the thread. I have been looking at using Inline Tube, since they are in my backyard, and wondered what the pro's and con's were on using either. I think if your car is being judged, there is no deduction for using SS lines. I was trying to find out what everyone's experiences were with potentially both systems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thriller Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 For BCA judging, there is no deduction for "over-restoration". So, using modern base / clear coat paint systems is not a deduction, but it still has to be a correct colour for that year of Buick. I would think that using better materials such as SS would be considered an over-restoration issue, so shouldn't be a deduction. That said, I am not a senior judge nor would I be a final arbiter of whether or not it is (that is, this is my opinion on how I would handle it). The worst case, is that you would get a deduction for authenticity of material. Ignore that...point 7 on page 63 or 64 of the BCA Judging Manual states that there is to be no deduction made for stainless steel brake lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 From all the comments above, it sounds like if you can find the lines prebent to fit your car and you have the extra $$ for SS then go for it. Otherwise steel lines will preform for many years.One thing to remember, brake fluid DOT 3 & 4 will absorb moisture, most reference material claims between 1 & 2% per year. There is no saturation point, in therory it will absorb all the water you can add to it. The moisture in the brake fluid rust metallic parts and will corrode aluminum. My point is don't forget to change the brake fluid in your collector car.It is not how many miles you drive it each year... just sitting in the garage the fluid will absorb moisture and cause problems over time.DOT 5 (silicone fluid) does not absorb moisture, but if moisture condenses inside the master cylinder resevoir and runs into the fluid, it will settle in low spots and rust steel lines. It can also freeze in the winter if you do not have heated storage.Back to DOT 3 & 4, moisture in the fluid also lowers the boiling point of the fluid. Probably not a problem on most collector cars but if you have older car you drive at highway speeds and/or in the mountains please note reference material indicates that 3% moisture can lower the boiling point 25%. DOT 3 specs for virgin fluid is a boiling point of 400 (maybe 405)3% drops that to 300 degrees. If you own and drive a Gran National the way they were designed to run, you could experience what appears to be brake fade but it is actually boiling the fluid. Keep an eye on your fluid and change it every 3 years..... more often if you live in a humid area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 A 25 foot roll of steel tubing and a good double flaring kit are all I have ever needed. Don't piece together the pre-flared lines from the auto parts store. And don't use connectors. Make the lines home runs.I use DOT 4. Every year I flush the brake system to get the moisture out and check everything. I start with a turkey baster and suck the fluid from the master cylinder. It has usually darkened. I put in new and start bleeding the wheel cylinders until clean, clear fluids comes out. The flush will pretty much stop corrosion and will prevent the sludge from building up.I also firmly grip the steering wheel and press as hard as I can on the brakes, the way I would if a kid ran out in front of me. A lot of guys seem to be afraid to do that, they cringe when I tell them. They might be afraid of blowing a line.Seems to be working for me.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 Bernie and Barney, thanks for the tips. I wondered about DOT 3/4 versus DOT 5 Silicone. I have heard that DOT 4 is probably the best. Bernie, like your test method, because it is real life type of testing (not that we want to have a kid running out in front of the car) but to make sure that you can get the stopping power when you need it.Anyone changed from manual to powerbrakes on their car? I wonder what the pros and cons are of that. I was thinking of doing that as well, since I was going to replace the lines. Any comments there? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrspeedyt Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 "we don't need no stinkin' power brakes." anon. (why complicate matters???) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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