19tom40

Contact one of the Early Ford V-8 Club of America Regional Groups near you. They should be able to recommend a good source. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/Regional_Club_Directory.cfm

X2, congratulations.

Here is the procedure from the 1952 Lincoln service manual: Oil Bath Air Cleaner Check-Clean oil Filter before dirt has reached shelf. Wash in kerosene and drain. Lubricant-Engine Oil S.A E 50 temperature above +32 F. S.A.E. 20 temperature below +32 Capacity- 1pint Fill to level as indicated air cleaner

Thanks for the fall color tour. What part of the country is that?

Lebaron-Bonney makes a boot for your car. Here is a link to a photo I found on the internet https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0117-277624/1941-ford-super-deluxe-convertible/

Yes, the number should be stamped near the driver's side water pump on the frame rail. It is also stamped on the transmission bell housing just like a Ford.

I tried to find the frame stamping on my 53 Lincoln and could not see it. It is supposed to be just behind the right upper control arm. On my car half of the frame is covered by the inner fender and the starter solenoid covers the rest. The car is up on jack stands for the winter, so I cannot get to the battery box to see if the number is stamped on the frame in front of it. There is no number stamped on the original engine. You may have to remove the right front fender to see it. I checked with other Road Race Lincoln owners and they said if the frame was stamped it would be on the passenger side frame rail in the engine compartment. One reply was that some frames were not stamped.

Looks like a 1954 or 1955 Ford engine with the teapot carburetor.

Welcome to the Land of Lincolns. While you are certainly welcome here and some of your questions may be answered here, most of the 1960 - 2000 owners spend their time on the http://www.thelincolnforum.net/ Congratulations on your purchase of a Town Car. They are great road cars.

Ryan, did this procedure work for you?

This is from the 1949-1951 Overhaul Manual. I am not sure if this will be the correct procedure for your 47, but it should be similar. Flush the hydraulic system each fall by: Lower all windows Move seat to rear position (it doesn't mention the top, but you should probably lower it also) Remove the ground cable from the battery Remove fluid reservoir from power unit, empty reservoir and clean it with alcohol Refill to the fluid level marker and install it Connect the ground cable Operate seat and windows several times to remove air from the system Lower all windows and move the seat to the rear position and check the fluid level.

My reference material only shows the wheel colors for the cars. You may be able to find Commercial Vehicle colors in the 1932 Ford Book available from the Early ford V-8 Club's website. People interested in restoring 1932 Fords have praised the book. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/Shop.cfm?id=2 You could also ask the question on the Early Ford V-8 Club's Forum about 1932 Fords. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewtopics.cfm?Forum=19

That is why I don't like hot rodders. They have no respect for history. I suppose that this will end up with monstrous wheels that look out of place and sitting on the ground with an air bag system or more likely end up as scrap metal, because the builder attempted a project that was beyond his skills.

Wow, did I blow it. I normally request that the poster check spark, when the engine has no power, but then a V-8 will idle rough and die when 4 cylinders are not working. I forgot that the V-12 will idle with 6 cylinders dead. I am glad that you found the problem and can now enjoy your Lincoln. Just a further note, it is nice to keep all of the posts about a problem in the initial topic that described the problem. If some else has a similar problem, he can then see all of the replies and the fix, without searching for your user name.

Google small electric motor repair for a shop in your area that can rebuild them. A lot of starter / generator repair shops will rebuild them for you.

I am not sure about the Continental, but on my 40 Mercury and other year Fords and Mercurys, the shim is rubber. I had to make the one for my 40 Mercury by using the mounting bracket as a template and cutting it out of 1/8" thick rubber. I got the rubber from Metro Moulded rubber in Minnesota. Here is a link to the one used on the Ford and Mercury cars. Seeing a drawing may help with making yours. https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.aspx?Item=11A-3682

Do you have an electric fuel pump? It could be overwhelming the float. Are you pumping the gas before you try to start it? There is a Regional Group of the Early Ford V-8 Club in New South Wales and maybe someone from that Club is more familiar with your car and can help you out. Here is a link to their website. They are a very friendly bunch of guys and will help if they can. http://earlyfordv8clubnsw.org/

Your truck looks very nice in the photo. I agree with Rick that you should join us on the Early Ford V-8 Forum. You can also find information about the Early Ford V-8 Club in the UK and Denmark. Your best bet is E-Bay. Sometimes parts are advertised on Craig's list. There is a website that claims to search all of E-Bay and Craig's list across the country for parts. http://www.ownster.com/parts The Craig's list references usually require more research to find the parts. Beware of scammers on Craig's list that will say that they have the part but will take your money and run. Here is a link to reproduction running boards. I cannot attest to the quality as I do not have a truck. http://fordor.com/category.cfm?cat=1938-1947 Ford Truck Cab Parts&dept=3246ford

Congratulations Tom. I saw your car there and was impressed with the quality of the restoration. It is a well deserved honor.

A steady low reading usually means that the valve timing is off. It could also mean that the rings are bad. Take a compression test and if the readings are even and above 100 lbs, then I would take off the timing gear cover and check the valve timing. Turn the engine until #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke and then watch the timing and crank gears. The dots should line up at TDC. http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/05/08/quick-tech-how-to-read-a-vacuum-gauge-to-pinpoint-engine-problems/

Check your battery for good condition. When cranking the engine, the battery voltage should not fall below 5.0 volts. If that is good, connect your voltmeter red or + lead to the terminal on the starter motor and crank the engine with ignition off. The meter should read 0.3Volts or lower. If the reading is higher, move the red lead to the starter solenoid end of the cable and repeat the test. If the reading is not less than 0.3 move the lead to the other side of the solenoid and repeat the test. The meter should read less than 0.2V. If it is higher, replace the cable. If it is lower replace the solenoid. Repeat the tests on the ground circuit by connecting the black or COM lead to the starter case and the red lead to the battery + terminal. The meter should read 0.1 Volts or lower. If not check your grounding cables.

Your engine may not be providing the correct vacuum for the modulator. Is the hose connection at the modulator the same diameter as the engine port? The fluid level should be checked with the shift lever in Drive and the transmission at operating temperature. Here is a link to a trouble shooting guide for the C4 transmission. http://diyford.com/ford-c4-c6-transmission-trouble-shooting-guide/

You may have a bored out 1942 or early 1946 block. I do not know of any special design feature to identify these engines. Ford went back to the smaller bore due to problems with thin cylinder walls. I would recommend a sonic test on the cylinder walls as the first step. If it fails the test, you will have to either sleeve the block back to a standard oversize or find another block. The camshaft in the replacement engine may be in good shape and you will not have to have it ground. https://www.revolvy.com/main/index.php?s=Lincoln-Zephyr V12 engine

No power is a very general term. It could be transmission or engine related. Does the engine rev up nicely and sound strong with no missing? Have you checked the compression on the engine? Does the engine have good spark? Does the transmission go through all of the gears or does it shift sluggishly? How quickly does the car go from 0 mph to 40 mph? Does the engine seem to race like a slipping clutch when you accelerate?

You have taken some great photos of the Museum. This museum is different than most, due to the many displays of memorabilia, parts and cut away parts. I find the town of Auburn, IN a grest town to visit with its many museums. Here is a link to the Museum's website. http://www.fordv8foundation.org/