Phillip Robinson

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About Phillip Robinson

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  • Birthday 08/06/1954

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    new south wales, Australia

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  1. Thanks for the reply. Timing was out, so motor out again, oil pump out, change distributor position, rechecked timing _1 tooth out_ now back in.
  2. I have a Carter updraft car by, and at first use of the day, I use full choke and part hand throttle. A few turns, I then reduce choke and the next turn, it starts. Throttle then goes in to adjust revs, until warm, then all way off . Phil.
  3. The bearings are not " babbitt" , as the conrods are the newer style, with later bearings. If using a new bearing, it seems like I might have to get it checked it for size,
  4. Thanks for replies. I suppose the question is just a general question for any engine. In this case, crankshaft reground and from a different motor. Having a look at different web sites to see about bearings being damaged, and thus not usable. Adds about $500 more to motor repair.
  5. Is it wise to use second hand bearings for the crankshaft. I have 3 sets of old , used bearings, for a 4 cylinder ford flat motor. What is accepted as being the best idea, new or used, for 75 year old motor.
  6. trying to replace distributor, after pulling engine apart. The manual says to have the broader offset tongue directed to the rear, as viewed from above, when the distributor and coupling shaft is removed. BUT, it says the condenser is towards the cylinder head? I have the shaft at 45 degrees to the front, with the larger offset facing the rear. Does not seem correct... Does anyone have a picture of the offset tongue , in this position, and , a picture of the condenser position, when at TDC for piston one. motor is a 4 cylinder, flat 4 , prefect motor, E93a. 1939 model. Thanks Phil
  7. Would running the engine on 3 cylinders have any adverse effect on the main bearings? Because if this idea works, it will tell me the bearing at fault.
  8. Thanks Jack. Just trying to get ideas. The bearings were second hand, same as the conrods, so a better check here is a good idea. As far as something in spark plug hole, I keep everything clean, so that did not happen_ but , as I say, looking for ideas when it comes out. Pan has no gap big enough to pull out. A suggestion that taking a spark lead off will tell me which bearing is at fault _ I am not sure if motor will still run on 3 cylinders? as I check each one.
  9. I hear the knock, but not certain if it comes from the generator, only a small possibility, but eliminates the generator being the problem. After that, there is only the bearings, conrods or main.
  10. Thanks. Too difficult to remove pan, and about 3 hours to pull the motor out. Aim at the moment is to disconnect generator, start up and see if knock occurs, then ??? Engine out and check conrods, bearings and any movement. Should know soon, hopefully.
  11. Thanks again for the reply. The history is this- crankshaft was broken in 2 places, 2 conrods were bent and 1 piston was chipped on the bottom. Obviously dramatic. So, another crankshaft, 4 second hand pistons and conrods, new rings AND had the motor balanced by engineer, including clutch. Another camshaft and bottom pan (which is where I was confused with the oil level), all cleaned, reset valves. This motor is 80 years old, but that should not matter. I will check knock again, and if still there, then motor out, or, realise that doing the restart might have adverse effects and damage it further.
  12. Thanks for the reply. All the articles that I read suggested possible bent rods, bearings scored- as oil became frothy( aerated) oil would not have been pumped. I ran it for 3 minutes, then drained to correct level, still using aerated oil, for another 10 minutes. Then drained and put fresh oil in. Still a knocking noise. Pull engine out or run it to try and locate knock?? Any ideas. Phil
  13. 4 cylinder side valve engine , ford. Unfortunately, for me, I over filled the crankcase by double. I did not check the book, and because I replaced the oil pan, I was confused with the dip stick reading. A lot of smoke, before I realised after idling for 3 minutes, and now a knocking noise. Could be damaged bearing on crankshaft, or conrod bearing or something else. Just had motor redone, so a basic mistake now forces me to take it apart again.