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Phillip Robinson

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About Phillip Robinson

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 08/06/1954

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  • Location:
    new south wales, Australia

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  1. Thanks Tinindian. Dry might work. Phil
  2. I have a 1936 Ford, flat4, 10 up. I am redoing the motor, which is very similar to the T model, and now I want to know if anybody has used grease on the Head gasket, rather than a spray-on glue. Any ideas. The gasket is a composite copper , the copper being on both sides. Thanks
  3. Should i use grease on the head gasket, or Hylomar spray. This is a 1939 prefect side valve motor. The new gasket is a copper composite, copper either side. Any thoughts?
  4. I have 1929 chevrolet, and when I want to take the back drum off, I loosen the wheel nut ( the one holding the axle to the drum) and drive the car in a circle, left for one side, right for the other side. This tends to push the wheel out, after a minute of driving, I check to see if the wheel nut is hard up against the wheel- jack up wheel and drum comes off with wheel.
  5. I think that America and Australia, both have gone down that CHEAP path, and thus few companies are able to make quality, as raw materials from China are just thinner, made poorer (is that a word) and we suffer for bad quality . When will America or Germany make decent goods again ( or even England) ? Phil
  6. I have purchased parts from suppliers that I don't recognize by sending cash. I have always received the package with the goods- even to USA from Down Under, on advice from a member who knew where I could get the product. Thanks
  7. Yes. There is a guy in Newcastle who has one. I can get him to reply if you still need it. Phil
  8. I have an original motor meter, on the car when bought, not working, but after reading an article in this group, after buying a new one, i was able to get original working. A few bounces on the tyre and the mercury came back down, and goes up as i drive.
  9. Puting pressure on puller, using wd40 to penetrate, and not wanting to damage. There is no pins, bolts or other impediments, seems like it should just slide off. I did the clutch peddle recently, and with the puller and a pinch bar to lever, the clutch,brake pedals came off quite easy, but not this pitman.
  10. I am trying to get the pitman arm off the steering shaft, by using a puller and penetrating oil, BUT it does not want to come off shaft. This is a 1929 chevrolet, and the aim is to take pitman arm off, turn steering wheel 180 degrees, and put back on. This will take the movement out of steering wheel. Phil
  11. Thanks for the help/conversations. Taking all this into account and deciding the better way , as I go. Will let you know of result . Phil
  12. Thanks for the reply. Timing was out, so motor out again, oil pump out, change distributor position, rechecked timing _1 tooth out_ now back in.
  13. I have a Carter updraft car by, and at first use of the day, I use full choke and part hand throttle. A few turns, I then reduce choke and the next turn, it starts. Throttle then goes in to adjust revs, until warm, then all way off . Phil.
  14. The bearings are not " babbitt" , as the conrods are the newer style, with later bearings. If using a new bearing, it seems like I might have to get it checked it for size,
  15. Thanks for replies. I suppose the question is just a general question for any engine. In this case, crankshaft reground and from a different motor. Having a look at different web sites to see about bearings being damaged, and thus not usable. Adds about $500 more to motor repair.
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