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Phillip Robinson

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Everything posted by Phillip Robinson

  1. I have a 29 chev, and when looking at my front end and king pins, I found it hard to turn, but very easy once jacked up. However, I did have some up and down movement. I decided to redo king pins, engineer to fit in the spindles with new king pins. Once I put together, no up and down movement, easy to turn with wheels jacked up, BUT still hard to turn on the ground. The pins do have a bearing on the bottom that was being shredded, and the new pins come with these bearings. SO, if there is a bottom bearing, and it worn, it did NOT effect the end result- the stearing was/ is still stiff on the g
  2. Thanks Tinindian. Dry might work. Phil
  3. I have a 1936 Ford, flat4, 10 up. I am redoing the motor, which is very similar to the T model, and now I want to know if anybody has used grease on the Head gasket, rather than a spray-on glue. Any ideas. The gasket is a composite copper , the copper being on both sides. Thanks
  4. Should i use grease on the head gasket, or Hylomar spray. This is a 1939 prefect side valve motor. The new gasket is a copper composite, copper either side. Any thoughts?
  5. I have 1929 chevrolet, and when I want to take the back drum off, I loosen the wheel nut ( the one holding the axle to the drum) and drive the car in a circle, left for one side, right for the other side. This tends to push the wheel out, after a minute of driving, I check to see if the wheel nut is hard up against the wheel- jack up wheel and drum comes off with wheel.
  6. I think that America and Australia, both have gone down that CHEAP path, and thus few companies are able to make quality, as raw materials from China are just thinner, made poorer (is that a word) and we suffer for bad quality . When will America or Germany make decent goods again ( or even England) ? Phil
  7. I have purchased parts from suppliers that I don't recognize by sending cash. I have always received the package with the goods- even to USA from Down Under, on advice from a member who knew where I could get the product. Thanks
  8. Yes. There is a guy in Newcastle who has one. I can get him to reply if you still need it. Phil
  9. I have an original motor meter, on the car when bought, not working, but after reading an article in this group, after buying a new one, i was able to get original working. A few bounces on the tyre and the mercury came back down, and goes up as i drive.
  10. Puting pressure on puller, using wd40 to penetrate, and not wanting to damage. There is no pins, bolts or other impediments, seems like it should just slide off. I did the clutch peddle recently, and with the puller and a pinch bar to lever, the clutch,brake pedals came off quite easy, but not this pitman.
  11. I am trying to get the pitman arm off the steering shaft, by using a puller and penetrating oil, BUT it does not want to come off shaft. This is a 1929 chevrolet, and the aim is to take pitman arm off, turn steering wheel 180 degrees, and put back on. This will take the movement out of steering wheel. Phil
  12. Thanks for the help/conversations. Taking all this into account and deciding the better way , as I go. Will let you know of result . Phil
  13. Thanks for the reply. Timing was out, so motor out again, oil pump out, change distributor position, rechecked timing _1 tooth out_ now back in.
  14. I have a Carter updraft car by, and at first use of the day, I use full choke and part hand throttle. A few turns, I then reduce choke and the next turn, it starts. Throttle then goes in to adjust revs, until warm, then all way off . Phil.
  15. The bearings are not " babbitt" , as the conrods are the newer style, with later bearings. If using a new bearing, it seems like I might have to get it checked it for size,
  16. Thanks for replies. I suppose the question is just a general question for any engine. In this case, crankshaft reground and from a different motor. Having a look at different web sites to see about bearings being damaged, and thus not usable. Adds about $500 more to motor repair.
  17. Is it wise to use second hand bearings for the crankshaft. I have 3 sets of old , used bearings, for a 4 cylinder ford flat motor. What is accepted as being the best idea, new or used, for 75 year old motor.
  18. trying to replace distributor, after pulling engine apart. The manual says to have the broader offset tongue directed to the rear, as viewed from above, when the distributor and coupling shaft is removed. BUT, it says the condenser is towards the cylinder head? I have the shaft at 45 degrees to the front, with the larger offset facing the rear. Does not seem correct... Does anyone have a picture of the offset tongue , in this position, and , a picture of the condenser position, when at TDC for piston one. motor is a 4 cylinder, flat 4 , prefect motor, E93a. 1939 model. Thanks Phil
  19. Would running the engine on 3 cylinders have any adverse effect on the main bearings? Because if this idea works, it will tell me the bearing at fault.
  20. Thanks Jack. Just trying to get ideas. The bearings were second hand, same as the conrods, so a better check here is a good idea. As far as something in spark plug hole, I keep everything clean, so that did not happen_ but , as I say, looking for ideas when it comes out. Pan has no gap big enough to pull out. A suggestion that taking a spark lead off will tell me which bearing is at fault _ I am not sure if motor will still run on 3 cylinders? as I check each one.
  21. I hear the knock, but not certain if it comes from the generator, only a small possibility, but eliminates the generator being the problem. After that, there is only the bearings, conrods or main.
  22. Thanks. Too difficult to remove pan, and about 3 hours to pull the motor out. Aim at the moment is to disconnect generator, start up and see if knock occurs, then ??? Engine out and check conrods, bearings and any movement. Should know soon, hopefully.
  23. Thanks again for the reply. The history is this- crankshaft was broken in 2 places, 2 conrods were bent and 1 piston was chipped on the bottom. Obviously dramatic. So, another crankshaft, 4 second hand pistons and conrods, new rings AND had the motor balanced by engineer, including clutch. Another camshaft and bottom pan (which is where I was confused with the oil level), all cleaned, reset valves. This motor is 80 years old, but that should not matter. I will check knock again, and if still there, then motor out, or, realise that doing the restart might have adverse effects and dam
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