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Phillip Robinson

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Everything posted by Phillip Robinson

  1. I put E10 in the 1929 Chev, and within 2 weeks , the fuel pump acted like a waterfall. Lucky not all the fuel was E10, only about 1/2. Phil
  2. Bears Fan, I found it difficult to get these plugs. Can you get them, say 12 ( one to use, one set for spares) and forward to me, in Australia. Any idea of price for plugs and postage. Phil.
  3. Looking to buy Led Light bulbs from " Led Light. Com". This is for the export 1929 Chev tourer, 6 cylinder. The bulbs are BA15 D dual filament, code 87455. Has anybody bought these or had dealings with this group. The voltage is still 6 volt. At $ 8.99 they seem good value. Thanks Phil
  4. Spark plugs. Sorry about being late in replying. Tryed a different plug, but went back to the BBL. The AC 86 is the right one , if we can get it - funny how some plugs work better, or is that "fire cleaner". Phil
  5. Fitted dry. Seems ok, but will have to replace camshaft, so I might be able to see if head gasket sealed or not, when I pull it apart. Thanks .
  6. I have jacked up car, 1929 chev, greased front ; put new king pins plus bearings and new wheel bearings a short time ago. The steering box has grease, and the steering is very light when jacked up. I am looking at replacing the steering mast jacket, thinking that this could be binding. Anyone had problems replacing these- steering wheel off, horn wire out etc. Thanks, Phil
  7. I have a 29 chev, and when looking at my front end and king pins, I found it hard to turn, but very easy once jacked up. However, I did have some up and down movement. I decided to redo king pins, engineer to fit in the spindles with new king pins. Once I put together, no up and down movement, easy to turn with wheels jacked up, BUT still hard to turn on the ground. The pins do have a bearing on the bottom that was being shredded, and the new pins come with these bearings. SO, if there is a bottom bearing, and it worn, it did NOT effect the end result- the stearing was/ is still stiff on the ground, and my machine is the chev tourer, a lot lesser weight than yours. Hope this helps. If I knew the bottom bearing was being chewed up, I would have replaced it, but it did not appear to make any difference, and car travells very well on roads, even at 60 mph.
  8. Thanks Tinindian. Dry might work. Phil
  9. I have a 1936 Ford, flat4, 10 up. I am redoing the motor, which is very similar to the T model, and now I want to know if anybody has used grease on the Head gasket, rather than a spray-on glue. Any ideas. The gasket is a composite copper , the copper being on both sides. Thanks
  10. Should i use grease on the head gasket, or Hylomar spray. This is a 1939 prefect side valve motor. The new gasket is a copper composite, copper either side. Any thoughts?
  11. I have 1929 chevrolet, and when I want to take the back drum off, I loosen the wheel nut ( the one holding the axle to the drum) and drive the car in a circle, left for one side, right for the other side. This tends to push the wheel out, after a minute of driving, I check to see if the wheel nut is hard up against the wheel- jack up wheel and drum comes off with wheel.
  12. I think that America and Australia, both have gone down that CHEAP path, and thus few companies are able to make quality, as raw materials from China are just thinner, made poorer (is that a word) and we suffer for bad quality . When will America or Germany make decent goods again ( or even England) ? Phil
  13. I have purchased parts from suppliers that I don't recognize by sending cash. I have always received the package with the goods- even to USA from Down Under, on advice from a member who knew where I could get the product. Thanks
  14. Yes. There is a guy in Newcastle who has one. I can get him to reply if you still need it. Phil
  15. I have an original motor meter, on the car when bought, not working, but after reading an article in this group, after buying a new one, i was able to get original working. A few bounces on the tyre and the mercury came back down, and goes up as i drive.
  16. Puting pressure on puller, using wd40 to penetrate, and not wanting to damage. There is no pins, bolts or other impediments, seems like it should just slide off. I did the clutch peddle recently, and with the puller and a pinch bar to lever, the clutch,brake pedals came off quite easy, but not this pitman.
  17. I am trying to get the pitman arm off the steering shaft, by using a puller and penetrating oil, BUT it does not want to come off shaft. This is a 1929 chevrolet, and the aim is to take pitman arm off, turn steering wheel 180 degrees, and put back on. This will take the movement out of steering wheel. Phil
  18. Thanks for the help/conversations. Taking all this into account and deciding the better way , as I go. Will let you know of result . Phil
  19. Thanks for the reply. Timing was out, so motor out again, oil pump out, change distributor position, rechecked timing _1 tooth out_ now back in.
  20. I have a Carter updraft car by, and at first use of the day, I use full choke and part hand throttle. A few turns, I then reduce choke and the next turn, it starts. Throttle then goes in to adjust revs, until warm, then all way off . Phil.
  21. The bearings are not " babbitt" , as the conrods are the newer style, with later bearings. If using a new bearing, it seems like I might have to get it checked it for size,
  22. Thanks for replies. I suppose the question is just a general question for any engine. In this case, crankshaft reground and from a different motor. Having a look at different web sites to see about bearings being damaged, and thus not usable. Adds about $500 more to motor repair.
  23. Is it wise to use second hand bearings for the crankshaft. I have 3 sets of old , used bearings, for a 4 cylinder ford flat motor. What is accepted as being the best idea, new or used, for 75 year old motor.
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