19tom40

The Optima battery has more cold cranking amps than the original lead acid battery and it is sealed so that the fumes and spilled acid do not cause parts near the battery to rust. I have been using one in my car since 1995 and love the fact that it holds it charge over the winter and that I don't have to paint my battery tray every year before storage. Count me as #3 in recommending the Optima. Amazon usually has the best price on them.

I don't know the value of the car that you are trying to sell, but here is a link to a restored coupe that sold at auction last year. http://www.goodingco.com/vehicle/1940-lincoln-zephyr-three-window-coupe/ Because your car needs to be assembled and you need a quick sale, it may be worth much less. I would try to find a member of the LZOC that lives near you, to inspect the car and give you an opinion of its current value. You might also consider paying someone to finish putting the car together and then selling it.

The fuel system on a 53 Merc is almost the same as the 54 Merc. The differences are very minor and you would trouble shoot them the same way. Fuel starvation when you floor it at 60mph could mean that the fuel line is partially clogged. The car should not need an electric fuel pump.

Car looks great, I love the color. I drive the car with out the wiper blades and the wipers turned on for the first month of the season every year. This gets the lubricant in the wiper motor loosened up so they work in the rain.

The Road Race Lincolns will also be there

According to the 1942 Chassis Parts Catalog, the front fenders P/n 01A-16005 / 16006 fit the 1939 Deluxe, 1940 cars and sedan delivery and 1941 sedan delivery. The do not fit a pickup. The pickup fenders have a prefix of 01C.

If the Coker tires are giving you a problem, contact Coker and press them for a solution. They will respond with perseverance.

Try the HAMB. The guys there are into hot rods and customs. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/

Thanks for the update. It is good to hear that your Continental is driving down the road as designed. It is too bad that the vendors making reproduction tires cannot provide a quality product. I have had good luck with Coker tires, but when others have had problems with them, I always tell them to get back to Coker as he will stand behind his products. Sometimes the person on the other end of the phone needs some serious prodding to fix the problem, but I find this to be common among the larger vendors.

If you are going to use a backup camera, get one that is hard wired between the camera and the display. I have a wireless system installed on my modern car and the static from the engine makes it very hard to make sense of what is happening. Another advantage of the hard wired system is that the batteries won't go dead, just when you need the system the most. Another problem is finding a good place to mount the display so you can see it and not make extra holes in the dash. If I buy another, I will check out the ones that replace the rear view mirror.

Nice car and nice photos. I am glad that you are finally going to be able to enjoy your car.

That tape has been used since the 1970's to attach side moldings on cars. I have a friend that has an original 1972 station wagon with the moldings held on by that tape.

They look nice and the mounting tape should last many years.

The following ad appeared in our Regional Group newsletter, the Road Chatter. 1936 LB Motor; 1933-34 rear axle and housings (nice); Standard 4" stroke crank and Rods & Pistons; #59 Canadian block. Call Paul Jensen 847-678-0123 I also know about another that may be for sale.

Be careful spraying the tuner cleaner near the balance wheel. the force of the spray can knock it off of its pivot. I usually hold the spray 18 inches away from the clock to just give it a misting at each pass and make several passes to get the clock clean. The reason that I mentioned the Radio Shack Tuner Cleaner and Lubricant, is that it cleans the dust from the pivot point and it has a fine lubricant in it that keeps the clock oiled. Sewing machine oil is similar to 3in1 oil. My clock repair man, uses a small needle that he dips in the oil and then applies it to the pivot points. I believe that the correct fuse is a 3 amp SFE. This would be a 1/4" diameter x 5/8" length. If your fuse is 1 1/4" long, it would be an AGC type fuse and a slow blow is available to replace it.

The clock fuse probably blew because the contact points are pitted and did not open as quickly as they should. Dress the contact points with a burnishing blade, adjust them so that they meet squarely and close completely when the clock is run down. Next lubricate the clock. I used Radio Shack Tuner Cleaner and lubricant in several clocks and they have been running for many years. Do not use WD40 as it is not a lubricant. Clock oil is lighter than 3in1 oil, but you can use the 3in1 if you cannot find a local clock shop to lubricate the clock or find the Tuner Cleaner. Other tuner cleaners may work as well, but the only one that I have experience with is Radio Shack.

Try Olsen Gasket http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/products/

Did you try to contact Mr. Acuff? I am wondering if he is still in the business or if he sold his business. He had 12 employees at one time.

I believe that what he calls "restrictor" is what we call the door check arm. I am not sure if he wants the measurement from the inside of the right C pillar to the inside of the left C pillar at the level of the door check arm or if he wants the width of the C pillar at the door check arm.

I don't think that Ford printed catalogs for the 47 and 48 years. The changes for 47 and 48 were minimal and were probably covered by service letters. There is a 1946 catalog on E-Bay right now. The price seems high, but I don't buy much Lincoln literature. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-LINCOLN-BODY-PARTS-CATALOG-PARTS-MANUAL-PARTS-BOOK-GOOD-ORIGINAL-/162448628335?hash=item25d2b15a6f:g:q2EAAOSwofxUlKMp&vxp=mtr

You are welcome. Those caps show up at swap meets and on Ebay quite often, but I would make sure that I did not lose it as the prices keep going up.

John, I am not sure if they are the same, but we just had a discussion on the Ford mounts on the Early Ford V-8 Forum. The conclusion was that Bob Drake made the best mounts. The Zephyr mounts may have a different hardness than the Ford / Mercury as the engine is heavier. Too soft mounts cause clutch chatter and too hard mount transfer the engine vibration back into the car.

I could not find the car on EBay, buthere is a link to what it went for at auction in 2008. http://www.rmsothebys.com/aa08/the-astor-collection/lots/1941-lincoln-continental-coupe/294679

To my untrained eye, it looks like you have the correct 47 Lincoln radiator filler. I don't know if the R-9 cap is the correct cap for it, but the other cap looks like it is for a different radiator.

The fuse sizes should be in the Operator's manual. There are several for sale on EBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/1947-Lincoln-76H-Sedan-Owners-Manual-User-Guide-Instruction-Operator-Book-OEM-/370783152251?hash=item565465e87b:g:DRkAAOSwx-9Wu8zV&vxp=mtr