Mssr. Bwatoe

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Mssr. Bwatoe last won the day on August 26 2018

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About Mssr. Bwatoe

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    BORN AND RAISED IN THE GREAT MIDWEST, LOVING BASEBALL, HOT DOGS ROLLING ROCK AND ALL THINGS FORD

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  1. Hi very nice car, I would only suggest that our 12 cyl Lincolns which are severely under valued, and the safe way to preserve investment is either 100 point restoration, or big money hot rod----Your car was beautiful when you started, and then this picture of a silver painted engine with wrong heads will stick out like a sore thumb. (its your car and none of my business). The attraction of this automobile is style and status and the 12 cyl gleaming engine. (in my opinion). ---Get some correct green paint, get some polished aluminum heads now while engine is out..or at least paint engine green, heads can be fake aluminum....
  2. osted August 16, 2008 I need Wheel cylinder numbers for a 1941 Continental..Are there Right And Left Side Numbers as Well as Front and Rear ?? Someone had given Numbers Before But My NAPA Dealer says those numbers are "No Good" !! Any Help Would be Appreciated ..CH Tom_Overfield Senior member Members 38 754 posts Location: Kent, Ohio Posted August 18, 2008 There are right and left side numbers ian, and the front and rears are different. I have boxes out in the garage from mine and they came from NAPA, I'll get them for you later today. Tom Red Bug Guy Junior Member Members 0 1 post Posted August 19, 2008 ian 418 I have a 1946 Wagner catalog that lists the Lincoln under Ford. It says all 1941 Passenger cars use a Wagner FD4500 for the Left Front, Wagner FD4501 for the right front, FD4506 for the left rear, and FD4507 for the right rear. It also has a note it is a step bore cylinder with the large diameter forward. The price in 1942 was $2.20 each. Hope this helps ian418 Member Members 0 48 posts Posted August 19, 2008 Thanks Big Red For looking up those wheel cylinder Numbers.. I Pulled The Left rear Drum today ( it's the One that was leaking ) The Cylinder that was On that wheel Was Marked {Wagner Lockheed BFD-2748}..So, I'm Not Sure What Number Is Correct And Available...Someone had Posted The Wagner Numbers as F9336 & F9337 And Raybestos Numbers as WC24954 & WC24955 ....I Ordered Two From Earle Brown today, He said his Were Raybestos and I can Use The Same Number cylinder on Both Sides..I'll Post the Number when i get Them and If They Fit !!!Thanks again --CH Tom_Overfield Senior member Members 38 754 posts Location: Kent, Ohio Posted August 20, 2008 I just bought 4 new wheels cylinders from NAPA and the numbers are.... Front, wc24955 24954 Rear 13387 13388 They had the rears in stock and the fronts they had to order, but they arrived in two days. They fit fine. Tom imported_Phil Knapp Senior Member Members 1 760 posts Posted August 20, 2008 If your wheel cylinders aren't rusted or pitted beyond some cleaning up with a brake cylinder hone, they're REALLY easy to rebuild. Most auto parts stores carry rebuild kits containing the rubber cups and end caps. All you need to know is the diameter of the bore, which is usually cast into the cylinder. If not, an inside micrometer can tell you what the diameter of the bore is. Rebuild kits are much cheaper than buying the whole cylinder. In fact, if the end caps are OK, some auto parts stores sell just the rubber cups - a LOT cheaper! Just be sure to get the correct size. ian418 Member Members 0 48 posts Posted August 20, 2008 Tom ; What are the Letter Before The Numbers On those Wheel Cylinders .. are they marked with A Manufacturers Name ..?? Tom_Overfield Senior member Members 38 754 posts Location: Kent, Ohio Posted August 21, 2008 Ian,,,one front cylinder I got from a vendor, it is a Wagner Cylinder and the number on the box is WC24955. The one from NAPA only has the number 24954 on the box, no letters. The rear cylinders are NAPA cylinders, 13387 and 13388, no letters on these boxes either. No brand name on any of the boxes, other than the Wagner cylinder. The NAPA boxes do say NAPA Brakes, but thats it. I also bought rebuilding kits from NAPA, however once I got my cylinders apart, the were pitted far to bad to save. Good canidates for re-sleeving, but no way will they clean up with a hone. Tom 40-41 connies Senior Member Members 0 215 posts Posted August 21, 2008 After owning a NAPA store for 23 years {now retired}, I notice the brake cylinder numbers. I had in my stock, the numbers you gave as these were the cheaper line of brake parts that NAPA sold. I also stocked the UNITED line of brake parts and the UNITED line was priced higher, however the product was excellent in quality. Nothing wrong with the lower cost to save money. Just a note on the different lines that NAPA sells. Tom_Overfield Senior member Members 38 754 posts Location: Kent, Ohio Posted August 22, 2008 40-41, I was wondering about that, I did notice the NAPA boxes say "assembled in USA" No mention of where they were actually made. These were the only ones the NAPA store in my area had or could get so I was pretty much stuck unless I wanted to pay double the cost. If they hold fluid without leaks, I'll be happy. Tom 40-41 connies Senior Member Members 0 215 posts Posted August 22, 2008 Tom, I hope you took the information the way I intended it. I just wanted all the NAPA buyers to know that NAPA almost always has two lines to sell. One line is to compete with the discounters and the top line that the mechanics most always wanted to buy. Belts- Napa line and then Gates, Brake parts, Napa line and United, Points, cond., etc Napa line and Echlin, Filters Wix made Napa GOld and Napa line. Another bit of information is that the NAPA store computers most of the time never have older hard to get parts listed. The counter boy will more than likely tell you they do not have it. Most of the boys on the counters today do not even know how to look up the parts in the books. The parts books list all the parts the warehouse has available and older items such as fuel pumps, etc are listed in the books and not the computer. Pete
  3. I stumbled on this device on the bay, and thought I would share it. I have often wondered how much pedal effort should be required to stop a Zephyr. This tool (maybe intended for mechanical linked brakes), but guage clamps to column, sensor bolts to pedal - you drive and stop...way cool..
  4. There is the source for the Tucker 48 wheel--42 Lincoln
  5. I like the small beam of light aimed at ignition off/on on column...Radio not lit unless operating
  6. temps in the 20's -to high 30's...after 8 below..I had to fire it up. My garage is attached, has modern insulated door, Owens corning pink in the walls and ceiling still freezes..Too much salt all over to drive, warmed it up ,
  7. Pull the coil off, make sure carbon brushes are there, see how dirty etc....You can run straight 6 volts to coil for short time, may give boost you need to get started---points probably need cleaned / filed / replaced .. awesome car! jb
  8. CHECK WITH MERV ADKINS IN CALLY-----GET SOME GOOD SHEET METAL...HE IS A GOOD GUY
  9. Cold winter AM and old pics.. Jim and Jeff wanting to look like old picture of our old friend and legendary Zefferist Al Mcwade, as pictured in a 1970's TWOTZ with a torch and a burned out Zephyr carcass ...This old 48 sedan gave its life for the greater good, "Introduction to Lincoln's 101 " early 70's
  10. Well done , I can assure you , once you dial it in, these are wonderful cars to operate. Dependable and comfortable. I have to admit, it took me a while...