billboos

Ralph, thanks, I don't have the manual but your instructions will get me started. Thanks for those and if the manual instructions are not too long are you able to do a highlight, copy and paste directly to your reply on this site. Thanks to Ray for his tips, too. Has anyone experienced an erratic voltage drop to coils wher faulty/dirty ignition was the cause? Ralph, , just got your pic of manual as I was answering last post

Ralph, thanks. Answers to few questions would be helpful: 1) Were you having a similar problem? 2) What were the main removal steps? 3) Are there parts requiring cleaning other than wire connections? 4) What did you use for cleaning? Thanks, Bill

Starting has been a problem after car sat for 6 months on a battery tender. I replaced the battery with the same Napa 7212 Commercial with 975 CCA's just because it was 5 years old. Sometimes it would start in a second or 2 and sometimes it would show no signs of starting. I jumped a wire directly from the battery to the coil for a few seconds and it started immediately. While running, the voltage at the coil read from .5 to 1.0 volt but always identical on each side. Since the voltage was the same going to each coil, I didn't think resistor or condenser problems were the cause. The one common denominator seemed to be the switch. I called Skip Haney who rebuilt my coils and described the symptoms. He immediately said he was almost 100% sure the problem is in the ignition switch and suggested cleaning it. Before trying to remove the switch, I am looking for any cleaning tips or different diagnosis. Thanks for any suggestions.

Can I clean the contacts on my 1947 Lincoln Continental ignition switch without removing?

UPDATE: Car is now running. Connected a wire directly from battery negative terminal to one side of coil for a few seconds. It started and continued running when wire removed. Let it run a while --turned off and it restarted fine. Perhaps battery was strong enough to turn starter but not getting enough voltage to coil. Maybe a bit of fuel starvation also as was suggested. I really don't know -- as was noted I am not one with a good skill set. Thanks for all the good observations and suggestions. I hope others can benefit from the tips as well

Ralph, thanks. Does anyone know if there is a way to test them. I am going to buy a pair of H200 Echlin recommended by Skip Haneyto go with his rebuilt coils. Any other thoughts??

Just pulled driver's side distributor cap and terminal plate and noticed that the four of the pins/rods in the plate are about 30% longer than the other two. is this normal or do I have broken pins not providing cantact?

My 1947 continental has been sitting for 6 months - will not start - no spark on either bank. What would cause both sides to fail -can condensers, resistors or points on both banks fail at the same time?

Manual specifies sae 90 but I've seen posts recommending 85/140. Any experience or opinions?

Had a custom exhaust shop install a close match (Round and about same length) for $160. Included installation labor and two short lengths of pipe welded on to pipes to replace rusty sections on either end of muffler. Very quiet with a nice sounding low tone from tailpipe. As a bonus, I found source of "clunk" in front end while it was up on lift -- sway bar bushings. Ordered from Boos-Harrell and will get installed this week. Only remaining minor issue is loud (to me) sound coming from engine or transmission in first and second gear -- not in third or overdrive. Had a mechanic who works on vintage cars drive it and he thought it was normal. I'm convinced car was quieter when new. I am planning on draining, flushing and replacing transmission and differential oil since I have no idea when it was last done. Not likely old oil is affecting it but obviously a good idea to change it. I've had the car for 5 years and it was not on the list of $3000 worth of work done just before I bought it. The car was in storage for 15 years just before that. Any ideas on loud engine/transmission noise in lower gears. It sounds like trucks I have driven in lower gears. I know it's not much to go on realize it is off topic from mufflers but there's not much members on this site haven't seen.

The manual calls for SAE 90 for transmission, differential and steering gear and Ford fluid for shock absorbers. Are these still the recommended fluids or are there superior alternatives today?

My searches came up with posts 8 or 9 years old so I am starting a new one. I need to replace my patched up muffler and would like to do it with OEM new old stock if possible or would appreciate suggestions if after markets are superior. I'm looking for ultra quiet not a rumble as I have on some cars. Is there a source for OEM or after market or what did you use if you replaced yours. I've heard of modifying other mufflers. Mine is round which I belief is stock. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks

Tom, thanks for the tip about the tray mat. I have to be careful about battery size. The NAPA recommended battery is 9" long. Mine is 13". I can't rule out the battery tray and hold down having been replaced in the past to accommodate a larger battery. Good that current battery not dead -- just run down and took a charge so I have time to figure out what to do. Also, thanks to you and Matt Harwood's comments a couple of years ago about possible coil problems and recommending Skip Haney for a rebuild. My '47 Lincoln failed to start a number of times on very hot days and with a hot engine. I finally sent my coil to Skip. The car now starts in literally 2 to 3 seconds and has noticeably more power. I guess I was living with a functioning but weak coil.

The ground cable on my 1947 Continental is connected to the engine block stud so that may be the standard