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  1. Manual specifies sae 90 but I've seen posts recommending 85/140. Any experience or opinions?
  2. Had a custom exhaust shop install a close match (Round and about same length) for $160. Included installation labor and two short lengths of pipe welded on to pipes to replace rusty sections on either end of muffler. Very quiet with a nice sounding low tone from tailpipe. As a bonus, I found source of "clunk" in front end while it was up on lift -- sway bar bushings. Ordered from Boos-Harrell and will get installed this week. Only remaining minor issue is loud (to me) sound coming from engine or transmission in first and second gear -- not in third or overdrive. Had a mechanic who works on vintage cars drive it and he thought it was normal. I'm convinced car was quieter when new. I am planning on draining, flushing and replacing transmission and differential oil since I have no idea when it was last done. Not likely old oil is affecting it but obviously a good idea to change it. I've had the car for 5 years and it was not on the list of $3000 worth of work done just before I bought it. The car was in storage for 15 years just before that. Any ideas on loud engine/transmission noise in lower gears. It sounds like trucks I have driven in lower gears. I know it's not much to go on realize it is off topic from mufflers but there's not much members on this site haven't seen.
  3. The manual calls for SAE 90 for transmission, differential and steering gear and Ford fluid for shock absorbers. Are these still the recommended fluids or are there superior alternatives today?
  4. My searches came up with posts 8 or 9 years old so I am starting a new one. I need to replace my patched up muffler and would like to do it with OEM new old stock if possible or would appreciate suggestions if after markets are superior. I'm looking for ultra quiet not a rumble as I have on some cars. Is there a source for OEM or after market or what did you use if you replaced yours. I've heard of modifying other mufflers. Mine is round which I belief is stock. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks
  5. Tom, thanks for the tip about the tray mat. I have to be careful about battery size. The NAPA recommended battery is 9" long. Mine is 13". I can't rule out the battery tray and hold down having been replaced in the past to accommodate a larger battery. Good that current battery not dead -- just run down and took a charge so I have time to figure out what to do. Also, thanks to you and Matt Harwood's comments a couple of years ago about possible coil problems and recommending Skip Haney for a rebuild. My '47 Lincoln failed to start a number of times on very hot days and with a hot engine. I finally sent my coil to Skip. The car now starts in literally 2 to 3 seconds and has noticeably more power. I guess I was living with a functioning but weak coil.
  6. The ground cable on my 1947 Continental is connected to the engine block stud so that may be the standard
  7. My current battery is 9 1/2 H, 13 W and 6 1/2 D so the NAPA Group 4 will fit. I'll have to make sure the cables are right for the post diameters. The cables are long enough to reach across the battery without blocking the filler caps so I can install it in reverse since it is not a reverse battery. My concern is whether I can use the commercial battery for the Lincoln application.
  8. I also want to replace my 6v battery in my '47 Lincoln Continental. Considering Optima but can't find adapters to fasten it into the battery hold down. Also looking at commercial battery from NAPA https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP7212 which has 975 cca'S. It looks like it will fit in hold down (same height, 1/2" less in length and 3/8" more in width. It is recommended for trucks and buses so I don't know if it is the right spec for my Lincoln. Anyone have experience or knowledge? Thanks, Bill
  9. Reply to an old post. I continued to have a no start problem on very hot days and hot engine and then missing when finally started. Otherwise SEEMINGLY running fine. Finally got around to sending coil to Skip Haney. I understand he replaces original coils with two more modern coils and insulation. After re-installing, coil, car now starts in about 2 seconds and the SEEMINGLY fine running car now has noticeably more power especially in third gear from lower speeds like 30 mph. Have not had a hot day to test hot/no start problem. Would a functioning but weak coil cause loss of power and also high gas consumption? Never checked mileage but gas gauge seemed to drop like a rock. Thanks for any comments.
  10. I know you posted this over a yer ago but where did you buy the optima and case. Thanks
  11. Waldren, thanks. My old Fords from that era all specified 32 pounds. I'll experiment a bit to see if there is any noticeable difference in the ride. Wear is not an issue as I drive my '47 less than 1000 miles a year. My car front end does "hunt" a bit at 60 mph that I've always attributed to the bias tires but maybe it is low tire pressure. My tires had 26 in them when I bought it three years ago and still have 26.
  12. Tom, thanks. MY '47 Continental Cabriolet has 700- 15 tires. I found my operating manual and it too recommends 26 pounds so I'll stick with that.
  13. What is proper tire pressure for 1947 Lincoln Continental Convertible and do you deviate to what and why? Thanks
  14. Got it --- thanks. Everything worked. Great forum -- got so many Lincoln questions answered.
  15. Thanks, I guess I was following an old instruction. However it looks like I am blocked from settings. I can click all the line items except settings. It is grayed out I and only get a verticle line when I move the cursor there instead of the finger point icon
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