19tom40

Boose-Herrel sells a replacement voltage regulator for your car. Some regulators can be repaired.

If the bellows is not rusted, the sending unit can be repaired. Did you check out the sending unit as I said in my previous post?

The V-12 had hardened valve seats, so it doesn't require lead. In the 50's some manufacturers stopped using the hardened seats and depended on the lead to lubricate the seat. As far as I know selling fuel with lead for automobiles is against the law. It is still available at some airports for planes.

Any competent upholstery shop can make you a headliner. You can also buy a pre-sewn headliner from many sources, just do a google search or look in Hemmings. Eckler and SMS fabrics are two suppliers. Some people are satisfied and others are not.

Try denatured alcohol first and if that doesn't work soak the parts in a soap and water solution. When the pump is free wash it with clean alcohol to remove all traces of water before filling it with brake fluid. After 12 years of sitting the hoses and cylinders are probably in need of repair or replacement. I would not try to operate the pump with the old hoses, they may spray brake fluid all over the car. If you don't have time to rebuild the window cylinders, you can disconnect the springs that pull the window down and manually push the window up, Then block the window up with a wooden stick.

You will have to disassemble the pump and clean it with alcohol. How long was the car sitting with the windows down? Have you checked the voltage to the motor with the + meter lead connected to the motor housing and the - lead connected to the solenoid out put? You could have a poor grounding connection and this would show up as very low voltage with the meter connected this way.

If your battery cables are more than 10 years old or have been used with a standard lead acid battery or if you don't know how old they are, I would replace them with new cables of the correct lengths and gauge from Boo-Herrel. Replace all of the cables to get the best performance. Old cables can have corrosion under the insulation that can impede current flow. I replaced the solenoid to starter cable on my 53 Lincoln this spring. It looked like new but it had a 1volt drop over its 10 inches. I cut off the insulation and the cable was green and hard under the insulation.

I would not use DOT 5 in the system as it traps air bubbles that can occur during operation. The best solution is to have the pump and all window, seat and top cylinders rebuilt to take hydraulic fluid. Hydro-E-Lectric in FL does this. https://www.hydroe.com/ If you decide to stay with DOT 3, Ford recommended that each fall the fluid should be changed. This is important on a seldom used car as they seem to collect more moisture than actively used cars.

Here is a link to the color chart for 1929-1933 Lincolns. The note at the bottom of the chart describes wheel color choices. Red is not one of them. It may have been possible to special order red wheels as the Depression was taking hold and Lincoln Dealers would like to satisfy buyer's wishes in order to make a sale. https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1932-Lincoln.html

What a nice car!! From the photos posted, it looks to me like the car has original paint. You can check the underside of the floor for sign of the original color. Another place to check is under the window moldings. Patina has a value to it especially on an old Classic, so If it were my car, I would try to preserve the patina with Meguier's Show Car Glaze followed by their yellow wax. I would not sand or use a paint polish on it. The Show Car Glaze will help stabilize the old paint and the wax will protect the paint from the air pollution.

If they have the same P/N, including the prefix and suffix, they will work on both engines.

The original sending unit was a King-Seeley unit that was a bi-metal strip heated by the current flowing in the circuit with the dash unit. The dash unit has a similar bi-metal strip that moves the needle. Here is a photo of the interior of an original sending unit.

The float should be a brass cylinder closed off at both ends. The current replacement sending units are hard to calibrate as they use a variable resistor. If your sending unit is not rusted out, I would replace the arm and use it. If the sending unit is rusted out, try to find a sending unit from a 1936-1955 Ford. You will have to replace the arm. The P/N for your sending unit is 21C-9275-A which is the same as 42-47 Ford truck. Here is a chart for bending the arm. You can check out your sending unit by connecting an ohm meter, set on the Rx1 scale, between the sending wire post and the case flange. Move the arm through the full range while looking at the ohm meter. The reading should stay around 0 Ohms. If it shows open or a higher resistance, try operating it through the range many times to see if the wiping action of the contact point will remove the oxidation. If you can't get a good reading, you can pry off the top and spray the contact points with electronic cleaner.

You will need a spring spreader to remove the rear end from the spring and then you can disassemble the rear end to remove the axle. You will need a gasket set for the rear end and the set should include the different thickness gaskets to adjust free play and bearing pre-load. As you disassemble the housing keep track of which gasket position and replace the gaskets with the same thickness on each side. This Service manual describes the procedure. https://www.ebay.com/itm/276188704819?fits=Year%3A1948|Model%3ADeluxe|Make%3AFord&itmmeta=01HYV2CS11D8487ETSQNZZZN4C&hash=item404e213033:g:TicAAOSwC3hlYOmH

https://hubcapmike.com/vintage-hubcaps/baby-moon-hubcap-wizard/ was the first hit on a google search

When you bench bleed the new master cylinder, do NOT use the full stroke, just pump the first 1/2" of the stroke. The master cylinders made today can damage the seal at the far end of the stroke. After you mount and connect the master cylinder, use slow short strokes to build up pressure in the wheel cylinder before opening the bleeder screw. Try to prevent the pedal going all of the way to the floor and use slow stroke movement both ways when bleeding. After bleeding all 4 wheels, adjust the push rod by moving the pedal with your hand and listening for the click when the push rod touches the master cylinder piston. Adjust for 1/4" - 1/2" movement of the pedal before the push rod contacts the piston. I like to stay near the 1/2" limit until I have driven the car for a while. Brake fluid expands when it heats up and the longer space, allows me to determine if the fluid is getting hot enough to raise the pedal.

To limit the amount of oil flow to the filter. Without the orifice, you may have a hard time sealing the top of the filter housing

You can also fill the opening in a fitting and then drill a.062" hole in the solder.

Did you try Boose-Herrel. Give them a cal, they may know.

The input fitting should have a .062" orfice.

Low vacuum can be caused by valve timing. If the chain is off just one tooth, it could cause this symptom.

The size is 1/4-18 npt pipe plug. If you mean that you want the dimensions of the square fitting, I suggest that you measure it with calipers. The square is not a standard size because most of them were cast and then threaded. They can vary in size as much a 1/32". The size is quoted as a nominal 1/4". If a 12" crescent does not give you enough leverage, you fitting is rusted in pretty solid and you will have to clean the tank so it can be heated to remove or soak it for a while from the inside with a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.

Just use a 12" crescent adjustable wrench. Make sure that it is adjusted tight to the square and that you have 3 points of contact. I have tried many different types of wrenches on these and found that I get the best results with the crescent wrench. The fitting is a cast iron pipe fitting, so a regular wrench will not fit correctly. I replaced mine with a brass fitting, so it will not rust in place.

Would you buy a Mercury windshield seal? This thread pertains to 1939 and 1940 Mercury cars. The purpose is to determine if there are enthusiasts who need and would commit to buying (pre-pay) a new windshield seal for these cars. There is basically one manufacturer who produces these quality seals and the last production was close to 20 years ago. If there are enough buyers who would definitely purchase one, it might be worth it for the company to do a run. At this initial stage there are no prices to attach to the commitment, but a realistic "I'm in" is what is needed to move forward. You can PM me here or go to to the FordBarn.com ad PM av8coupe with your response. He is keeping track of the number to see if there is enough interest.

The 47 Monarch is a Ford with extra chrome and upscale upholstery. The engine most likely is a 239 cu in V-8 and may be rebuildable. The only way to tell is to disassemble it and check for cracks. $10K seems high to me. I don't know how to tell if the upholstery is original, but here is a link to some photos of Monarchs. https://www.flickr.com/photos/50312897@N02/galleries/with/72157701767959024 Here is a link to the Early Ford V-8 Club website, where you can get contact information on the Canadian Regional Groups. Someone there may be able to help you determine originality. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/Regional_Club_Directory.cfm