19tom40

Just for information, I have driven my 1940 Mercury over 80,000 with the original type master cylinder since 1976, without a catastrophic failure. The system has had a couple of master cylinder failures and one wheel cylinder failure. The one master cylinder and the wheel cylinder failures were noticed when the pedal was lower than normal and the brake fluid level was low. I was still able to come to safe stops. The master cylinder leak started to show up when I was more than 90 miles from home and I made it home with some pedal left. If I had felt that the brakes would fail before I got home, I would have added fluid to the master cylinder before starting for home. The wheel cylinder problem was noticed when I was washing the car and saw the brake fluid on the tire. The other master cylinder failure showed up as the pedal would get mushy in traffic, but return to normal after resting. I just replaced it and all of the hoses this spring.

Try Daytona Parts, they have good kits https://daytonaparts.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwhLHaBRAGEiwAHCgG3u7nnmZGE5zNW2bf03GMKp4NJMGepuewjC_60Nk-LNP-UyMO_WbIOxoCNE0QAvD_BwE

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Hunting is usually due to worn front end parts or mal-adjusted wheel bearings. 26 lbs will give your tires the maximum footprint on the road, giving better traction.

Try Evaporust gel available at O'Reilly auto parts. I just used it on my headers and it did a great job. Finish with Rustoleum primer and black paint.

If you have surface rust in the door, there is no rust preventive product that will stop it. You need to treat the rust that you have and then a good paint will preserve it. Keep the drain holes open and keep the inside of the door free from a build up of dirt or moisture retaining debris.

I hope that you used a dummy shaft to align the clutch plate with the pilot bearing.

According to the chassis parts catalog, the F-600 did not come with an OHV V-8 engine in 1953. The 317 cu in engine used in the F-750 and F-800 trucks used the same exhaust manifolds a the Lincoln engine. There were minor external differences in the assembled engine, so someone could have installed Lincoln valve covers on a truck engine. The carburetor should have a part number on the base along with a list number. You will need both to order a kit, even though most Holley teapot kits did not use the list number. The adapter plate from the block to the transmission is a Ford truck item. The back of the Lincoln block and the truck block are identical.

You don't have to remove the spring from the axle, if you can get the car high enough to move the rear axle back about 12". Just disconnect the four U-Bolts that hold the spring in place, remove the rear wheels, the strut rod (sway bar), brake hose, emergency brake, shocks, shift levers, overdrive controls and clutch linkage, universal joint bolts and any other items attached to the rear end or transmission and then drag the rear end back. I use a floor jack to do this. You may not need to remove the transmission, if it is just the gasket at the OD junction. You might be able to just remove the OD. I have not worked on a torque tube Lincoln for more than 65 years, so i am not sure if you can just pull the OD.

The engine has all of the characteristics of a 52 Lincoln 317 cu.in. engine. 2 barrel carburetor, crossover pipe at top front of the engine and a single diaphragm vacuum advance. Those grooves are present on the 1952-1954 engine valve covers also. I am not sure about the 55 and 56 engine. The 1953 F-750 and F800 used the same engine. The F-600 would have had the flathead 239 V-8.

The input voltage to both coils should not be the same. One coil input will be lower voltage because the points are closed and current is flowing through the resister, the other coil input should be above 4 volts, because there is no current flowing through the resister. The first thing that I would do is get the engine to operating temperature and check the spark from each coil (cyl 1 & 2) for a good blue spark at least 1/2" long. If you have this, the ignition is in good condition. If not check the condenser for the side that has the weak spark. If both sides show a weak spark, check the input to the ignition resisters, it should be at least 6.3 Volts. Also check the dwell if you have a dwell meter. It should be 36 degrees on the 6 cylinder scale.

You forgot to mention that you also found a Scotch Terrier to "Watch the Fords Go By"

Your shoes may not be making full contact with the drums or not equalized. See if you can lock the brakes and tell if all four are grabbing at the same time. Check the skid marks to see if all 4 are grabbing, if not, go through the cable adjustment again. If they are all grabbing at the same time, spray a thin coat of paint on the shoes and then make several stops. The paint should wear off the shoes where the shoes contact the drums. Doing just the front wheel shoes should give you an idea if that is your problem.

The Y-Block fan would be higher up than the crank mounted 39-41 V-12 fan, so the pusher fan would interfere with the airflow of the stock fan. You should have an extension made to move your stock fan closer to the radiator. It should be about 1/2" away and no more than 3/4" away from the radiator. This will improve your cooling significantly. A flex fan will add more cooling effect. If you are having overheating problems in traffic, after moving the stock fan, a shroud with the stock fan or only an electric fan would be the best choices. The stock fan on my 53 Lincoln moves more air through the radiator than the crank mounted fan on my 40 Mercury. I can drive the Lincoln in any kind of weather and any kind of traffic and it will not overheat. It did get hot when it was about a quart low on coolant and I was stuck in traffic for 45 minutes on a 90 degree day. The needle an the gauge moved into the area just below the H.

If you do go to tubeless tires, be religious about checking tire pressure every time that you use the car. Rims meant for tubeless tires had a safety bump to keep the tire seated on the rim when the tire pressure was low. The 47 Lincoln rims do not have this. Before you invest in new tires, check your front end for worn parts by jacking up one wheel and trying to turn the wheel left to right of the car. Any movement means worn parts, check to see where the movement is and replace the worn parts. Next grab the top and bottom of the wheel and check for movement. If there is movement, your kingpin bushings are probably worn. Check both sides. When your front end is free of excess play, have the toe-in adjusted. A truck shop is usually the best for this operation and the computerized alignment tools don't seem to work very well on the straight axle cars.

It could be that the linkage is jammed at the steering column end. Disconnect the rods going to the shift levers at the transmission and then try to move the transmission shift levers to neutral. If this works, you will have to replace the bushings at both ends of the rods. If it does not work, you may have to remove the transmission and rebuild the shift levers.

You need at least 6.0 volts at the bulb to get the specified lumens from the bulbs. Turn on your head lights, radio and heater and then raise the engine rpm to 1,000 1,200 and measure the voltage at the BAT terminal of the voltage regulator. It should be at least 7.0 Volts and not more than 7.5 volts. If it is outside of that range, your charging system is not adequate and needs servicing. If it passes the test, check the voltage at the back of the brake light bulbs with the brake light switch shorted by a jumper wire. Do this with and without another load. I suspect that the voltage will be low. Try to isolate the problem by measuring the voltage at the brake light switch and the turn signal switch and flasher. Use your wiring diagram to find the voltage path from the battery through the switches to the lights. .

Vern, you might try finding a good used one or pair. To see if it is just one hinge causing the problem, have someone move the hood up and down while you watch the pivot points to see if one moves along the pivot. You can also remove the hinge, remove the spring and then see where the wear is. It is important to keep the hood and trunk hinges and supports lubricated as the wear can hit you in the head.

I used my old Ford script case, gutted it and installed an Optima. I fabricated a new top using pieces of acrylic and the straps and caps from the old battery. here is a link to a completed one. http://www.antiqueautobattery.com/batteries/ford/2HL.html

Usually the cause of the problem is worn pivot points. When one of the pivots wears, it changes the geometry of the counterbalance so that the spring is not effective any more. You may be able to see the wear with the support in the car, but to repair it, the support will have to be removed and the worn pivot repaired. To remove the spring, force washers in between each of the coils until the tension is released.

According to the weather forecast, it should all be gone by tomorrow at the latest. It is too bad that the Hostetler’s Hudson Museum will be auctioned off before the meet. It was a great museum and I have enjoyed several visits to it. https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2018/04/05/worldwide-auctioneers-to-sell-hostetler-hudson-museum-collection/ The trip to Auburn will be very interesting, the museums there are first class. I would use back roads to get there, not US 30. There are many interesting towns to drive through on the route from Elkhart to Auburn. I would also do the drive and not take the bus. I enjoy driving my car on the Indiana 2 lane highways.

Looks like it may be a key case for a Lincoln Zephyr from around 1936 -1938. It is from a Canadian dealer.

John, do not use the sending unit in the heads with your dash gauge. You will damage the gauge. Do ALL of your testing with the radiator sending unit. Replace the head unit with a 1/2" pipe plug. Your test results using the head sending unit are what I would expect. The head unit allows more current to flow in the circuit when the engine is cold and that would peg your gauge.

As another post pointed out, you may have the wrong material for your lining. The linings look much thinner than the ones on my cars and the woven linings are usually riveted on , not bonded. It doesn't look like you will have much friction material left by the time you get those linings to fit the shape of the drum. Give Fort Wayne Brake a call and see what he has to solve your brake problem.

Using 1 multi-meter on voltage, the voltage at the sending unit varied as the internal contacts open and closed. You could not see any difference in the hot or cold. My true RMS read a steady voltage of about 3.2V hot or cold. The difference in time that the contacts are closed does not seem to vary much from cold to hot. As Blu said, you won't get anywhere testing the sending unit with a multi meter. The pre-1939 cars had a different sending unit and dash unit as Colin said. Your gauge should rest on cold with the ignition off. The sending units differ internally with the earlier one supplying more current to the dash unit as the engine warms up and the later one supplies less current to the dash unit as the engine warms up. The dash unit has the spring wound differently so that the pre-1939 spring tension pulls the needle to the cold position. It is possible that your 37 sending unit is OK and the problem is inadequate grounding of the radiator unit. To check this, wire the radiator sending unit up normally, turn on the ignition switch and check for voltage at the sending unit wire with your red meter lead on a good ground (engine stud, engine ground strap or firewall bolt). Then compare the reading with one taken between the sending unit wire and the sending unit case. They should be the same. You can do another check on a warm engine by connecting the clamp on your red jumper lead to the POS terminal of the battery and the clamp on the other end to the case of the sending unit. Turn on the ignition switch and check the reading of the gauge. Lots of people have used Teflon tape to seal the threads on sending units and Teflon tape is a pretty good insulator. The sending units have pipe threads and do not need any sealant. If you can remove the sending unit from the radiator, clean the threads on the sending unit and the radiator to ensure a good connection. Check that the radiator has a good connection to the chassis or body. You coolant should always be in contact with the sending unit. Make sure that you have enough coolant to ensure this.