19tom40

https://fifthaveinternetgarage.blogspot.com/2015/10/borg-warner-r-10-r-11-tech-tips.html has trouble shooting info

Here is a link to the listing http://www.ecoastcc.com/Cars/SearchResults

Glad to hear of another happy customer. A lot of the V-8 Club members use him

John, give Mac VanPelt a call. He may have the part you need. http://vanpeltsales.com/

Replacing the stud is an easy job and can be done by any Generator shop. IMHO, have the starter rebuilt with new brushes and bushings, rather than buy a new one or a rebuilt done by a supplier that you cannot look in the eye if something is not right. C & G Ford Parts n Escondido, CA wants over $200 for a rebuilt starter and a local, to me, generator shop will do the job for around $125 if the coils are good. It would be more if you wanted high torque coils installed.

Here is a link to a correctly restored 1936 Ford. The body is stainless steel and yours is not, but everything is pretty much like it left the factory, http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/features/1936-stainless-steel-ford Again, replacing the incorrect parts with more expensive correct parts, will probably not have much effect on value.

You should definitely join the LZOC if you are planning to buy a 36-48 Lincoln V-12. You will make friends in the Club and they will be your best resource for information, cars and parts. There are very few reproduction parts for these cars, most glass is flat safety plate and can be sourced locally of from a specialist like Sanders Glass. When you are looking for a car to buy, make sure that it is a complete car and running. Basket cases will cost you more to restore than you will have to pay for a fully restored car that will probably need more work, just to bring it up to your standards. In other words, buy the best complete car that you can afford and stay away from basket cases, as it will take close to a lifetime to restore one.

The 36 should have aluminum heads, a fuel pump without the glass sediment bowl and there is some modern wiring. There may be other issues, but I cannot tell from your photos and I am not a 36 ford expert. The 39 has an incorrect coil, wrong plug wires, some modern wiring. The radiator looks incorrect in the photo supplied. It should have the filler pipe on the left side, split core and have 91A on the engine side of the radiator. Again, this is just from the photos provided. I would not worry about the incorrect parts as they are commonly found on these cars and would be easy for someone who wants the car to be exactly as it left the factory to fix. They will have little effect on the price that you will be able to get.

The body was bolted to the frame from beginning of production until the end of the Grand Marquis in the early 21st century. The intermediate and small Mercury had unitized bodies starting in 1960.

You can use the NADA value guide or the Old Cars Weekly value guide to set a starting price and then decide what you will accept for the cars. Neither car is an original car as there are some incorrect parts on both engines. I would put the effort into getting the cars running as non running cars usually go for prices in the no 5 condition or below the NADA low price. Here is a link to the NADA guide online prices, the Old Cars weekly price guide may be found at your local library reference section. Have the librarian search for antique car price guides. http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars/1939/Ford/91A/Deluxe-Fordor-Sedan/Valueshttp://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars/1939/Ford/91A/Deluxe-Fordor-Sedan/Values

You can also try this source. I know that they can reline your shoes and resurface your drums if they are in decent shape. Brake Materials & Parts, Inc. Fort Wayne, IN (260) 426-3331 Scott

That is a neat installation. It looks like you did not use any rubber hose that can lead to a vacuum leak on the supply side of the mechanical fuel pump. The Zephyr and Ford fuel pumps will fail to prime due to their location at the top of the engine, if there are any vacuum leaks in the supply side. The vacuum leaks are also a source of "vapor lock", as they lead to insufficient fuel delivery. If you did not do it, I would remove the lines and solder the ferrule to the line as Ford did. This will ensure a good connection.

Roy Nacewicz and Narragansett Reproductions both sell the original type fuel line. There are other vendors that sell a steel line that is copper plated on the outside, these rust from the inside in a shorter time than the ones that are done like the original ones. http://www.narragansettreproductions.com/wiring-harness.html http://www.fordscript.com/

I am glad that it worked out for you. I find Mac's catalog useful to find if parts are available, but seldom order from them, because of their shipping policy. I usually order from local suppliers like Rock Valley in IL, The Ford Barn In WI and Yesteryear Ford parts in MI. These are all small outfits that give great service and the prices are competitive with Mac's.

I agree with Tom Overfield's advice and would add that you should build a carrier to support the crankshaft by the main bearing throws and never stand it on end leaning against a wall. The crankshaft is easy to bend and difficult to straighten is the reason behind supporting it by the main bearing throws.

Post deleted as it was incorrect.

Ken, is this the Ford part you are talking about http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/rear-engine-transmission-support-ford-passenger-373020.html

John, you can try the following site for information and products. https://www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/mold-max-25-create-2-silicone-mold/ You could try repairing or recasting your part with Devcon Flexane 94. http://www.devcon.com/UserFiles/File/Urethanes_User_Guide.pdf I used the Flexane putty to repair the running boards on my 40 Mercury and it held up very well for 30 years, until I had them recovered by Hunley Aucuff.

Beltfed, here is a link to an add for the same model that I have. http://www.2040-parts.com/snap-on-coil-tester-vintage-nice-1950-chevy-ford-buick-rat-rod-i8902/

The resistance seems low, but the true test of a coil is its output when hot. The best test is at idle when the engine is at operating temperature. The spark from a plug wire should jump about 1/2" when held near a good ground, like a head nut. The spark should be blue in color and make a sharp snapping sound. My coil tester is a SnapOm model that allows for heating the coil. The tester is basically a vibrator, to act as ignition points, and capacitor with a calibrated output that is adjustable to show spark intensity. If your coils have not been rebuilt, you should do it before you put the car on the road. All of the original type coils will fail when they are used in a car. The question is when and the answer is usually when you are the farthest from home on a hot day. Jake Fleming uses a different method from Skip Haney, of making the coils reliable. I have used his coils since the mid 1990's with the only failure occurring when I left the ignition switch on without running the car.

I strongly advise you to have the points timed on a distributor machine, by someone that has lots of experience with the Zephyr distributor. That way not only the initial timing can be set, but the advance mechanism can be checked out. Bad advance curves can lead to overheating, just like incorrect initial timing. TDC can be found using a vacuum gauge, but I have reservations about using a timing light to set the break time of the points. You have to remove the distributor for each adjustment of the points, put it back on the car and recheck the setting. The other problem is to accurately mark the pulley with degree marks so you can set the timing to 4 degrees BTDC. The Ford Shop notes give a way of using a vacuum gauge to check the action of the mechanical advance and vacuum brake.

I just use the SWAG (scientific wild a** guess) procedure

You are welcome. Make sure that you linkage is not worn and that it has no binds. The vacuum wipers do not have the torque to overcome binds in the linkage.

If your wiper motor hasn't been used in a long time, just lubricating it and the linkage may make it work again. First I would just remove the arms and blades and try the motor. If it works, let it run for a while to loosen up things. If it doesn't work, remove the motor and add a few drops of light oil into the vacuum port and operate the motor by hand several times to distribute the oil. Then connect it to a vacuum source and see if it will operate. If it does, re-install the motor, lubricate the linkage and drive around for a few days with the arms stored in the glove box. If it does not operate, then send it to: Kent Jaquith, 2633 SW Obsidian # 15, Redmond, Oregon (541) 923-4319 Clean-Sweep Windshield Wiper Motor Service, Sales and Rebuilding Another option is to remove the top cover, clean the crud and hard grease out and lube the paddle and cavity with Vaseline or another non-hardening grease. I remove the wiper arms on my cars every spring and drive with the wipers on, to keep the lubricant spread out in the motor. Then if I get caught in the rain, I just install the arms and the wipers work. I also lube the linkage every spring, but it is easier on my cars than on the Zephyr.

I would look into how Ford solved the problem on the 39 Zephyr. You may be able to find enough used 39 parts to get yours done.