19tom40

I suspect that the clutch is not releasing properly. Add some freeplay to the pedal and see if that helps. If it doesn't, check the clutch operating cross shaft bushings for play.

That is a very nice 39 Standard. I hope that you get it back on the road soon. I believe that Joblot is out of business and most of their stock of parts has been bought by other vendors. James was the main parts guy and he is now at another obsolete Ford parts house. Gotham Autoparts, LLC 8609 Santiago Street, Holliswood, NY 11423 Tel# 718-878-3699 email sales@gothamautoparts.com Gotham is Jame's new company! Specializing in Hard to Find & Vintage Auto Part Little Dearborn still lists a lot of parts for the rear end http://www.littledearborn.com/ You might try posting an ad in the Parts wanted area of this site, or in the classified section of the Early Ford V-8 Club web site. Complete rear ends do show up on E-Bay and I would check with Lowell Kimble 402-649-1116 and Mike Dennis at Nebraska Ford Parts 402-489-3036 and Paul Rutkowski 859-661-1932 American Parts for used parts. While you have the rear end apart, you probably should have the axle housings sleeved. Check the underside of the housing for signs of wear or pitting. If there are signs, the housings should be sleeved o prevent axle failure in the future. The best source for the sleeves is http://www.columbiatwospeedparts.com/Pages/default.aspx

You are welcome and I really would not drive a car with an axle that looks like that, iy could break and cause serious damage to the car or cause an accident.

I would think about replacing the axle and hub. The photo shows an axle so worn that the hub will never seat on it, putting extra stress on the key and the axle. The real driving forces should be absorbed by the close fit of the axle and hub's taper. I would also examine the passenger side axle. The condition that you show is usually caused by not tightening the axle nut enough, allowing movement between the hub and axle.Ford specified 200-220 ft lbs torque and then tighten to the next alignment of the slot and cotter key hole. They also recommended that the axle and hub be clean and free of any lube. Some people use valve grinding compound to lap the axle to the hub, then cleaning every thing before assembly. Check this site for more information http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/reartorq.htm

Tire charts may not accurately reflect the physical size of a tire from the 1940's to later years. There was a change in numbering tire sizes around 1950 and I cannot find out the difference. You can call Coker and ask them what the difference is in width and height between the 2 sizes and then make your decision. Something else to consider is the spare tire. We are used to radials on our modern cars, that do not deflate as fast as bias ply tires and do not use the spare any more, with bias ply tires you are more likely to use the spare and the spare must fit in the tire cover as well as be close in size to the other tires on the car.

Standard size was 700-15. The 760-15 will make the speedometer read slightly off.

I have had plating done by The Finishing Touch and Pauls. Both of them did a nice job. The part that I sent to Pauls was the trunk handle base. The part came back looking very good, but it did grow some in size. I sent it back with an unplated part and they redid the trunk base so it fit perfectly. I had some name plates done by Finishing Touch and they came back just like new. I had a grill done by Qual Chrome when they were in Poughkeepsie, The chrome came back with some bubbles not on the face of the grill and they could never get them out. It is has been wall art for about 35 years. You are going to have severe sticker shock on your parts. They have to remove the chrome, drill the pits and plate with acid copper. Then they have to silver solder the pits, polish and plate again with acid copper. They repeat this process until the part looks good, then they can finish the plating process. Be sure that you let the plater know what is acceptable, before you give him the parts. It will affect the price and the final product. Good LUck

I should have said that the comments say that the Lebaron-Bonney kit has better instructions and easier to install because of this. These comments are from owners doing their own installation, not professionals.

I don't have my plate any more. It was made of 1/4" steel with a 3/8" U-bolt in the center. There were 4 holes drilled to allow bolts to fasten the plate to the block, where the manifold was. The photo in the Shop Notes is very cluttered and does not show the exhaust manifold attachment. The Manzel Tool catalog shows two chains with hooks on the end, joined by a lifting ring and 2 plates that will accept the hook and holes to accept the bolts for the exhaust manifold. I don't have my scanner working, so I can't post a drawing.

Installing a Lebaron Bonney kit requires some knowledge of upholstery techniques. There are a couple of techniques that are needed for the headliner and the seats. You can search U-Tube for videos on installing an upholstery kit. The Ford Forums have many comments about how detailed the instructions are from Lebaron-Bonney, compared to the Catouche kits. The Lebaron-Booney kits also have better material. Here is a link to some videos from Lebaron-Bonney http://www.lebaronbonney.com/instructions.htm

The Shop Notes, show the engine being removed with a chain attached to the exhaust manifold bolts. I have pulled a V-8 using a plate mounted to the intake area, but I would wonder about doing a 12 cylinder the same way. I would want to have at least 4 bolts holding the plate and would prefer to use 6 for a 12 cylinder block.

All Ford Motor Co vehicles were POS ground until they went to 12 Volts. I do not have a good diagram of where the wires connect, so you can use a trial and error method to find your problem. The switch shown in the Shop Manual is different than yours. Does the "bakelight" switch have a terminal marked BAT. If so, there should be 6 volts on that terminal, The other wires will have 6 volts when the window up switch is activated. The round cylinder with 2 wires and the ground is the motor solenoid. The heavy wire on the terminal opposite of the ground is from the battery and should have 6 volts on it at all times. The wire in the center is called the motor wire and it will pick the solenoid and the motor should run and pump fluid. Does the motor run from the window switch? If it does, the wires are connected correctly. If it does not run from the window switch, check for voltage on the wires on the top of "Bakelight" switch when the window switch is in the UP position. and the motor wire must also have voltage. If the motor runs when the switch is activated in the UP position, your problem is probably air in the window cylinder.

The back seat carpet is a dark tan, barkweave pattern carpet. It is the same as used on the bottom of the door panels. Lebaron Bonney may have the correct material or a close match. http://lebaronbonney.com/

That radio sound great, it should drown out the timing gear sound easily.

I would just turn the radio up. The NOS part is very old and I would not like to find myself stuck along side the Interstate, calling for a flatbed. The fiber gears fail in two ways, teeth break off and the gear separates from the metal center. Both cause the engine to stop right away.

The fuel bowl must be vented. The Ford carburetors for the 41 and earlier cars had the small cutout on the side of the top piece. The later carburetors used a vent tube inside the the throat of the top of the carburetor. This was done to prevent the airflow from the higher position of the fan from causing a siphon effect on the vent. I am not sure about how the Zephyr carbs are vented. The shaking test doesn't always work, the hot water test does. If your floats pass the hot water test, I would suspect the float valve is sticking or the float is dropping too far and sticking. There are 4 types of float valves in common use: the all metal needle and seat, the metal needle with a rubber (Viton) tip and seat, the rubber ball in a cage and the Daytona Carburetor valve. I prefer the all metal needle and seat. The rubber tipped and the rubber ball types tend to stick after a few years of using gas with Ethanol in it. I don't have much experience with the Daytona Carburetor valve, so I will not comment on it. The float should drop just enough to allow the valve to open. If it drops too far, the needle will stick on the float. Polish the area of the float where the needle rides, so that the needle has a smooth surface to ride on. You can check your fuel pump pressure by using your vacuum gauge. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and connect it top your vacuum / fuel pump gauge. Start the engine and read the gauge. the reading should be around 3 lbs, above 4 lbs expect problems.

I can understand why the car was not well received, the Club's purpose is to preserve and restore the cars. Quote "The Lincoln and Continental Owners Club is dedicated to the preservation and restoration of all Lincolns, Lincoln Continentals, and Continentals." Modified cars are not restored cars. I also understand why you went to a later engine and transmission. It was what you wanted in your car and it would make it easier to drive long distances.

Jon gave you good information, but not enough detail on detecting float leaks. Boil some water and then turn off the heat, submerge the float in the hot water, a pair of tongs is handy for this task. If the float has a leak, the heat will make the air inside the float expand and you will see bubbles coming from the leak. A leak can be soldered closed, but you are better off trying to find a new float.

The original lines were probably copper coated steel. You can still buy this product from Narraganset Reproductions and Roy Nacewicz. Be aware that some vendors are selling steel lines that are only copper plated on the outside. They do not hold up as well.

I cannot find a wiring diagram for the control valve and switch in the Overhaul Manual. You can order a CD or re-print from Macs. http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_late/catalogsearch/result/?q=overhaul+manual&x=18&y=13 Looking at the diagrams for the pump operation, it looks like the control valve is only used for the top, the windows are controlled by the switches. The center wire of the switch is hot when the ignition is on and the top wire goes to the pump solenoid center terminal. It is hot when the switch is in the "up" position and will pick the solenoid to run the pump. The bottom wire of the window switch goes to the window solenoid and control valve. It is hot when the switch is in the "down" position. It activates the window solenoid to allow the spring tension to lower the window. I believe that the control switch must be in the neutral position for the widows and seat controls to operate. The wire from the window switch probably goes to the control valve and then to the solenoid. The center wire on the solenoid should show continuity to the window wire when the control switch is in the neutral position. I just see 3 connections on the solenoid. The connection on the passenger side of the pump is for the battery, the center connection is the "motor wire" and is hot when the window switch is in the "UP" position or the top switch is activated, the terminal on the driver's side of the solenoid connects to the pump motor. It would help if you could post some photos of your pump and the "Bakkelit Switch". along with the wires that you are trying to connect. I hope that my post has helped you.

Dennis Carpenter sell a replacement antenna with new rubber seal and instructions for installation. http://dennis-carpenter.com/radio-antenna-assembly/p/11A-18813/ You may be able to leave the roof seal and adapter in place and only replace the mast and O-ring.

The normal amperage draw for the starter should be between 150-200 amps. Your cranking voltage is good, normal is 5.0 -5.5 V with an Optima battery.

Boos-Herral list the switch assembly in their on line catalog as being the same fro 40-48. Their P/N is 3680.

Here is the link to the Early Ford V-8 Club's website https://www.earlyfordv8.org/index.cfm Maybe someone can update the first post in this thread, so a new person does not have to scroll through the post to find it.

That does look like a good solution. Hopefully it will not deteriorate when soaked with grease. There were some comments about it on the Ford Barn and the HAMB, but I could not find any long term results. John Deere Corn Head grease is more grease like than 140 gear oil and more liquid than wheel bearing grease. It feels similar to chassis grease when at room temperature, but liquefies at a lower temperature. Neither wheel bearing grease or chassis grease will keep the U-Joint properly lubricated. Here is a link to a vendor. You can also buy it at Farm and Fleet or any John Deere dealer. http://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Special-Purpose-Corn-Head-Gun-Grease-AN102562.html When you post a link, include a blank line above and below so that anyone can click on it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-flathead-U-joint-torque-tube-O-Ring-stop-leak-kit-w-gaskets-transmission-/251255228584?hash=item3a7ffa88a8:m:mHN4d-TolrcVhkvi3zOMRMQ&vxp=mtr.