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abelincoln

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About abelincoln

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  1. All of the above are likely suspects. You can check the points at the screw terminals on top with a dc volt meter. Should have 2-3 volts when running, Just keep fingers away from fan. If one side says 6 volts or 0 volts you can suspect a problem. I like to use a timing light on individual plug wires to avoid shock. Otherwise, hook up a spare spark plug with a clip -clip on the ground electrode and watch for spark. Lincoln distributor is an elector-mechanical marvel. Engine is odd fire, and each set of points fires three cylinders on each side. Nice looking vehicle. Abe
  2. Thanks folks. After some debate, I went ahead and ordered a set from Chris. Was tempted to put the price toward getting a Ford Explored 8.8 rear end, about the same size but you need to get axle tubes and axles from two rear ends as the Explorer has an offset due to transfer case. Would need a new frame member to locate and hang coil over shocks as well. But you could have disk brakes, positraction, and any ratio you want. Abe
  3. Managed to remove the offending parts. Looks kind of like a motor mount with the top part still on the car, and the bottom part attached to the curved cross member. Found a part no. of 96H 5044, insulator. Any ideas of where to get a pair, or maybe a motor mount re-builder? I'm also thinking the insulator is not particularly important, don't recall seeing such a thing on a Ford of similar vintage. Looks like it was mostly detached before I started working on the area, glad I caught before the rear end fell out while driving. Thanks Abe
  4. What holds the rear spring cross member in place on a 48 Continental? I was trying to disconnect the rear spring shackles to lower the differential so the transmission can be removed. when there was a bang, and the cross member disconnected on one side, and the spring end hit the floor. Looks like it was held in place with some kind of insulating material. Seems like it should be bolted or welded. What do do next? Thanks Abe
  5. I'm using aluminum aftermarket heads, so I looked on granger.com and found a box of washers just the right size, much cheaper. Abe
  6. I found that there was no hole for the crankcase vent tube that goes to the air cleaner in my intake gasket. Guess it pays to check. The important holes are the ones for the manifold bolts. Abe
  7. JW: Please check your messages on this forum. Thanks
  8. Looking for a 48 V-12 oil pan. I think they are the same for all years. Thanks, Abe
  9. I suppose it depends on condition. I can have mine re-welded, but I think a fresh pan would be better. Have your friend e-mail me at trades707@juno.com. Thanks, Abe
  10. Anybody have a spare, unwanted 36-48 V-12 oil pan? Mine was welded and now leaks. Thanks Abe
  11. I thought mine was bad... Still, if the cylinder walls are intact, you can clean up, bore out, get new pistons, valve assemblies, etc.
  12. I managed to check the line by unhooking at the mechanical pump, and using an air gun with a rag at the filler pipe force gas through the line. You can also do this in reverse and see if air comes out the filler pipe. My line was still good after car sat for 30 years with fowl smelling gas residue, but I needed to take the tank to a radiator shop to clean. The electric pump shouldn't put more than 3-5 lb pressure to the carb, as you don't want the needle valve to unseat in the float bowl. If you take out the mechanical pump, its a good idea to leave the rod in as to not leak oil back into
  13. My trunk lock was actually disconnected, so I took out the back seat and managed to reach past the previously bent cardboard to reach the latch from the inside. Then took to locksmith. Abe
  14. Thanks, I bookmarked this one. Abe
  15. Starter likes 12 volts just fine. I disconnected the car electrics from the starter relay, and ran about a two ohm large (50 amp) resistor in series with the ignition circuit. To avoid coil damage, check voltage at the points when running, should be 2-3 volts. Resistor still got hot, but engine ran on 12 volts.
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