abelincoln

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About abelincoln

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  1. Uriel: I also think a good place to start is the distributor. When you take it off, you'll notice what a mechanical marvel it is. There are two sets of points, each fires plugs on both sides of the engine. look for broken springs on points, or frozen points. A way to test is to measure voltage at the points at the back of the coil, distributor assembly. Should be 2.5-3 volts each while running. (Watch out for the fan!) If the distributor is removed, note that one end of the tang is slightly larger, corresponding to the slot in the camshaft. It is possible to install backwards, don't ask me how I know. If you find the need to replace parts, might find someone with an old distributor machine, or send out. I've had good luck with Philbin Manufacture AKA flathead doctor in Portland. I suspect the coil is OK, but they can be rebuilt or replaced with two standard coils. Plug wires might also be bad after a long time sitting. Abe
  2. Anybody have a diagram of how oil flow works in the V-12? Looks like the pump sends oil to filter, rear main, and to lifter gallery. In the valley, I put the 1/8 pipe plug in the rear regulator, and drilled a 1/16" hole in the bottom of the front regulator to accommodate solid, adjustable lifters. By some miracle the engine started after a looong time of re-assembly, but was shut off due to excessive mechanical noise. So I took off the intake manifold to re-adjust the loose valves Problem was that re-ground camshaft has lifters lower in the boss in the block, and you have to lift valve and spring assembly to adjust. Anyway, after a few minutes of operation, I'm not seeing oil in the gallery, looks pretty dry, seems like there should be some oil present. I'm now concerned that not enough oil is getting to the lifters. Should I drill out the front hole bigger, or is everything OK the way it is? Advice to those considering similar mods: if the cam if is reground, also grind about 1/8 off the top of the lifter bosses to make lifter adjustment easier..
  3. Check the aftermarket suppliers for pulleys, ebay, amazon also. I've seen them at swap meets. I got one from Grainger, but needed to modify mounting boss to make it work. Then I converted the whole operation to serpentine belt. When the input capacitors fail on the radio, you may experience more static. They are likely bad anyway after 70 years. Abe
  4. You should consider replacing the input capacitors on the radio, and reverse the polarity. Worst problem is pulling the wire out of the ammeter and reversing direction so will read charge and discharge correctly. for the instruments, you can either build a solid state voltage reducer or use a 57 Ford vibrating regulator. 100 amp GM alternator with one wire works well with an adapter bracket for Ford you can also find on e-bay. then you don't need the regulator on the firewall. Abe
  5. Try measuring voltage on the low side of the coil with the engine running, (being careful of the fan!) Should be 2-3 volts on each side. I had a NOS distributor that had a bad spring on the points, took a long time to figure out. Try to find someone with an old test set that can dial in the distributor, check vacuum advance too. I've also had sparking at the terminal plate where the wires hook up. Really messy. Abe
  6. I tried hydraulic jack oil in the shock. First warm unit with light torch to get old oil out. Works better now.
  7. I got someone to answer the phone a few months ago, said business was tied up by state wanting taxes, and the survivors were trying to re-incorporate in Delaware. They have always been good to me. I hope they make it. Abe
  8. Doesn't sound good. But there are a couple things to try. Jack up at least one rear wheel, put tranny in neutral, and try to spin wheel by hand. While in the air, you can also block front wheel, run engine in gear (I'd try second) and see if you can notice any thing out of ordinary. If a bearing is bad, it usually gets warm when run. Good Luck Abe
  9. Cool, we have a 48 in that color. Along with various Fords and Lincolns, I also have a tractor. So I put in hydraulic tractor fluid from NAPA. Works well, and does not smell like ATF or ancient brake fluid. Easier to clean up too. Abe
  10. I'd look for a parts book, and a body book, nice drawings and dimensions. Probably better would be to find an intact Lincoln of your model and take lots of pictures. Abe
  11. My understanding is the Lincoln starter dive is a bit different than the Ford. A competent auto-electric place will rebuild your Lincoln starter. I use ABE in Portland, OR
  12. Not a Lincoln, but the 56 Fords in my collection headlight switches are held in with a bezel from the front. There is a button the top of the switch which releases the shaft of the switch so you can get at the bezel. Hope this helps Abe
  13. Does the engine turn over? I put a mixture of WD-40, Marvel oil, and auto trans fluid in each cylinder to soak for a few days, removed the starter, and gently pried on flywheel teeth to free. After a few more days, it worked. Be careful, if you break a flywheel tooth, its a bunch more work. 12-V should spin starter, but I had to get mine re-built to spin engine. Good Luck Abe
  14. I did this to the 48 V-12. I had the machinist who did the block use the Ford instructions and put a plug in the internal bypass passage. You are right about being tight fit. I was able to get a pipe elbow on outside hole to attach to a hose, but had to screw in a short section of brass pipe for the inside hole. I mounted the filter on the pan with a Lowes bracket. Seems to work. Its not a complete bypass, the oil pump also feeds the rear bearing directly. Abe
  15. Its an old Ford trick. 6-6 1/4 balancer was stock on 283, 327, and others. Check the old Ford sites and HAMB for how to's.