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About abelincoln

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  1. You should be able to see from underneath the cable attachment to the lever on the side of the overdrive transmission, and remove if necessary. the cable is also attached to a bell housing bolt, again you should be able to reach. Sometimes you need to clean some accumulated dirt and greasy crud. to see what is going on. I've had cables rust and become hard to operate. Sometimes you can free up with penetrating oil or wd-40 from the outside, otherwise you can pull out and lube cable with white grease.
  2. I took my 48 radiator to a local shop. They sent off for a new core of proper dimensions. Cost over $700 as I recall. Might see if an aftermarket place, Speedway Motors, Jegs, Summit Racing, etc would be cheaper. Abe
  3. Hope your heater works! Don't slip in the ice Abe
  4. Of course it is possible to install distributor 180 out. Don't ask how I know. If you look closely, one end of the tang that fits in the camshaft is bigger than the other. Make sure these line up. Abe
  5. For a while I ran a dual coil replacement with two plug wire holes on the top and stock brushes inside. Search this forum for possible suppliers. i used two MSD 6A units, blaster coils, and stock points. Trouble was, MSD was so hot it flashed over the top of the coil replacement, still ran pretty good. My latest scheme is to use a 60-2 crank trigger wheel and sensor with a Fuel Tech computer, and two wasted spark VW-Audi V-6 coil assemblies. I'll post should it actually work. If you want to want to use solid state points in original distributor, Philbin Products in Portland, OR, AKA Flathead Doctor make a unit for V-12 distributors. www.philbingroup.com.
  6. I think I've got a 56 distributor somewhere, but its a bit cold in the garage to look. My faint recall is that there were two diaphragms to speed up the vacuum advance with a derivative signal (mathematically a second order) since there was no mechanical advance. Don't see any centripetal weights inside. Abe
  7. Looks like a 56 Ford distributor with vacuum advance only, no mechanical advance. 57's were better, had dual advance. Abe
  8. I found it helps to remove the generator and then stand on the gunwalls to pull up and then back. Still not easy. Abe
  9. Here's a left headpipe from Reds Header under frame member then up. Hasbe O2 sensor and a few things not hooked up. Abe
  10. I have a tractor in addition to the LC, so I use NAPA tractor fluid. Seems to work as well, and smells much better when spilled. Abe
  11. Purists close your eyes. This is for sale at https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/1937-lincoln-zephyr-custom/6621427424.html. Too much money, but they still used a V-12. Abe
  12. I did the 7" dual booster and new master cylinder on my 48. Had to make an adapter plate between booster and frame with a couple coupling nuts and a piece of 1/4 rod to use the stock pedals. I mounted a new fill reservoir on inner fender. You might want to consider the Speedway disk brake kit as well. Uses Ford pickup disks and GM pistons. My intake manifold had a tapped hole for vacuum to run windshield wipers, just put in a "T" and ran hose to booster. Abe
  13. I thought that after about five years of fussing, the 48 LCC might actually run again, so I started adding fluids with the overdirve first. What I got was gear oil all over the floor. Likely I messed up, or missed a gasket at the transmission - overdrive junction. Tried to pry apart and add permatex gear oil sealer, still leaks. So I'm thinking I need to pull the transmission to disassemble and see what is wrong. Unfortunately the engine is installed (and I think ready to run), so to pull the tranny I need to separate the torque tube from the universal joint at the rear of the transmission. This means lowering the rear end third member so the torque tube will slide back. I put a spreader bar between the rear transverse spring eyes, hopefully won't go sprong. Questions in no particular order: 1. How far back to I need to move the torque tube to get the transmission out? 2. Does the rear axle assemble need to come completely out? At least I could clean off the grease and oil accumulated there. 3. Do we need to pull the hubs to unhook the hand brake cable, or can I take the turnbuckle apart where the hand brake cable splits? 4. Depending on answer to 1 and 2, could we leave the hand brake cable in place and get enough clearance? 5. Is it better to remove the bushing in the spring eye to separate spring from the assembly, or take out the upper shackle bolt? 6. Where to disconnect rear shock absorbers? 7. Looks like we'll need to disconnect the brake line, not much slack there. Any other advice or consolation appreciated. Thanks Abe
  14. Our right side rocker panel on the 48 LCC has holes big enough to throw a cat through. Does anyone make a replacement? Would be nice if we could cut out old and weld in new under the lower trim piece. Left side seems OK, as inside weld has come undone and water can run out. picture is from floor near front fender, garage ceiling at bottom of picture. Cat is 15 lb Norwegian Forest Cat. Others must have had this issue. Thanks, Abe
  15. John: Don't know about 37, but our 48 has a seat cushion that just lifts out, nothing but gravity holding in. Should be able to snake a belt through there somewhere. Usually you add a big washer under car to support through bolt. Good luck Abe