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abelincoln

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  1. I've found it helpful to also remove the generator. I then put a couple of 2 X 4 blocks under radiator while wrestling hoses and getting mounting holes to line up. Abe
  2. I paid about 5.7K a couple years ago, and thought I got a bargain. Had the crank rear oil slinger ground off to us a Ford seal, reground the cam for solid lifters, and converted to full flow oil filter included. Price included Melling M-15 oil pump, solid lifters, 8BA valves and one peace guides, new aluminum pistons for .060 bore, etc. I then assembled. Abe
  3. Several recommend the Melling M-15 high volume oil pump. I put one in my 48. Had to get a separate Speedway pick-up tube to avoid interference with the rear crank throw. Otherwise, seems to give OK pressure. If you don't care about being bone stock, you can get higher compression aluminum heads, multi-carb intake, and headers for extra oomph, Some of us also replace hydraulic lifters with an Isky re-grind cam and solid adjustable lifters. Also recommended is a crankcase vent or PCV valve. Abe
  4. That is not a nut you really want to be loose. But looks like there are some threads on the axle. You could try getting a box wrench on the nut, and gently pounding on the nut as you turn in. You might want to get a new nut and possibly run a die over the axle threads. Abe
  5. Here is the manual I was thinking about. www.studebaker-info.org/Overdrive/BW_OD_service_manual_searchable.pdf. The Lincoln OD is slightly different. There is a metal rod in the adapter plate to keep from going into reverse when engaged, and the solenoid shaft is longer. Abe
  6. Most overdrive problems are electrical, not mechanical. Take your VOM meter and check. Sometimes its just a blown fuse. I've had the governor stop working due to oil inside case. If the solenoid is out, you can check with a set of jumper cables. The Lincoln solenoid has a longer shaft than the Ford. You need a good diagram. Look on the web for a booklet on Borg-Warner overdrive, or look in a Ford repair manual. I've had to replace kickdown switches too. My Lincoln OD was miss-assembled and the sun gear was binding. Transmission Exchange in Portland was able to fix. Need to check fluid level in both tranny and OD. I lost an OD once due to low fluid. Once, the bearing on the back of the transmission case for the countershaft galled the case. One transmission had a broken collar in the synchro assembly. Worked OK though. Still love the OD, Abe
  7. Typical problems come from lugging motor and not downshifting when it should be. A couple of design flaws: There is no crankcase breather, and the original valves used split guides so combustion gasses easily get into crankcase leading to the "stinking Lincoln" syndrome where obnoxious vapors come out the oil fill pipe.. There are several possible solutions including using 8BA Ford one piece valve guides, and a PCV valve. The Borg Warner overdrive was used on Fords, Chevies, Studebakers and other makes, and once you catch on to it, operates somewhat like a five speed with second and OD as well as high and OD. H&H Flatheads and others have speed parts, even a supercharger if you need more oomph. A properly built and maintained V-12 should last at least as well as a Ford flathead. Look for rust in the floor, trunk, rocker panels and fender ends. You can also spend a small fortune on chrome. Abe
  8. Tom is right, but it can be confusing. The engine is 75 degree, odd fire, the right bank is 15 degrees after the left bank. Both sides are even fire 6 cylinders. However, the distributor contacts are offset, so each set of points fires three on one side and then three on the other side, so six plug wires must cross the engine. Abe
  9. Stephane: The value will vary considerably with the condition of the vehicle. You can check Hemmings Motor News online where several are for sale. Does it run, does it have rust, is everything there? Abe
  10. John: Carefully remove the solenoid, remove bolts and turn to pull out. Reinstall solenoid after trans is in place. I use a couple of rods screwed into side mounting holes on the engine block to guide the trans in place lining up the input with the clutch disk, sometimes have to rotate in gear a bit to mesh. If clutch has been out, need to center disk with an old transmission input shaft or make a dowel. You might also need to raise the rear of the engine a bit to make everything line up. It is easier to install motor mount with trans out of car. Funny, I'm about to do the same thing with rehabbed transmission. Abe
  11. Looks wonderful John! Did you get the brightwork re-chromed or were you lucky to have a good set? Abe
  12. All of the above are likely suspects. You can check the points at the screw terminals on top with a dc volt meter. Should have 2-3 volts when running, Just keep fingers away from fan. If one side says 6 volts or 0 volts you can suspect a problem. I like to use a timing light on individual plug wires to avoid shock. Otherwise, hook up a spare spark plug with a clip -clip on the ground electrode and watch for spark. Lincoln distributor is an elector-mechanical marvel. Engine is odd fire, and each set of points fires three cylinders on each side. Nice looking vehicle. Abe
  13. Thanks folks. After some debate, I went ahead and ordered a set from Chris. Was tempted to put the price toward getting a Ford Explored 8.8 rear end, about the same size but you need to get axle tubes and axles from two rear ends as the Explorer has an offset due to transfer case. Would need a new frame member to locate and hang coil over shocks as well. But you could have disk brakes, positraction, and any ratio you want. Abe
  14. Managed to remove the offending parts. Looks kind of like a motor mount with the top part still on the car, and the bottom part attached to the curved cross member. Found a part no. of 96H 5044, insulator. Any ideas of where to get a pair, or maybe a motor mount re-builder? I'm also thinking the insulator is not particularly important, don't recall seeing such a thing on a Ford of similar vintage. Looks like it was mostly detached before I started working on the area, glad I caught before the rear end fell out while driving. Thanks Abe
  15. What holds the rear spring cross member in place on a 48 Continental? I was trying to disconnect the rear spring shackles to lower the differential so the transmission can be removed. when there was a bang, and the cross member disconnected on one side, and the spring end hit the floor. Looks like it was held in place with some kind of insulating material. Seems like it should be bolted or welded. What do do next? Thanks Abe
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