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About abelincoln

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  1. Starter likes 12 volts just fine. I disconnected the car electrics from the starter relay, and ran about a two ohm large (50 amp) resistor in series with the ignition circuit. To avoid coil damage, check voltage at the points when running, should be 2-3 volts. Resistor still got hot, but engine ran on 12 volts.
  2. I went to NAPA and got some "fuel injector hose". Its expensive, but the hose isn't supposed to collapse under suction. Abe
  3. If you take the crank out for any reason, consider having the rear oil slinger ground off and getting a Ford rope seal and housing. Otherwise should you park pointing uphill, oil may run out. Abe
  4. My vague recollection is that the337 V-8 started as a truck motor and was adapted for the new model 1949 Lincoln. Yours could be from a truck or from an early 1949 model year Lincoln made in late 1948. Abe
  5. I think they were designed to leak on purpose. Not much of a seal between the pan lip and the rear main housing. I've tried high temp silicone as well as sheet metal edging that slips over the pan edge. To make matters worse, the rear main gets oil straight from the pump with a drain right where it can hit the end of the pan and run out. Some engines come with a tube that is supposed to channel away. I put a pipe to reach into the oil. Not good if oil gets on the clutch either. Abe
  6. If all the previous checks out, I've had similar problem with worn brass synchro gears leading to falling our of 2nd gear. Best of luck, Abe
  7. I had one get low on oil in the OD part of the transmission and froze the gears, a real mess. Still ran when I locked it out. Like Matt says, ground governor and see if the solenoid clunks. Abe
  8. The OD is pretty simple and usually reliable. There is, however, a free-wheeling clutch so that if you take your foot off the gas under the governor speed of 22-24 MPH, the engine is disconnected from the rear wheels. Probably worth checking the governor. If the governor contacts don't close, you get the free=wheeling at all speeds. I had a s governor that was full of gear oil (80-90 is recommended), and would not get an electrical connection. You can ground the terminal that goes to the governor at the relay, should pick up the OD solenoid. The circuit goes through the kickdown switch u
  9. My understanding is windows should be hydraulic, run by pump in drivers side engine compartment. Also works top on cabriolet models. Vacuum hose runs from engine to tank under right front fender. smaller hose goes to wipers and radio antenna. Sometimes the one way vacuum hold valve at the tank goes bad. Abe
  10. Got the pan and one head back on. Most days I'm out on tractor, but should come together in next couple weeks. No knock when turned with starter. Abe
  11. I think we can identify the problem. When I put the M-15 oil pump back in, the pickup tube and screen look like they've been through a war zone. There is a flat spot on the top of the tube where the rear crankshaft counterweight has been hitting and bending the bottom of the screen housing on bottom of the oil pan. It's a Mac's screen and pickup that are supposed to fit the M-15 pump. Maybe the Ford V-8 doesn't have such a large counterweight. Constant banging each revolution might also reduce oil and oil pressure. Now for a little heating and tube bending. Also make sure the pump i
  12. I've had fair luck with a parts store suction tool. I finally found an old master cylinder lid and plumbed it with an air fitting to force 10-15 lbs pressure, get a nice flow at bleeder screws. Much easier. Abe
  13. Not familiar with Blue Flame. In our Hogan aluminum heads, the stock 1/2" reach spark plugs were recessed into the head, so I tried the Edelbrock Ford flathead recommended plugs with 3/4: reach which then were hit by the intake valves. So I found some 1/8 spacers to use under the plugs so they wouldn't hit but still extend some into the chamber. Check yours, preferably before installation. Abe
  14. Got rear bearing cap off, looks like lots of oil was getting to it. I'll check the rest, We did plastigage the mains, all were in spec. However, we did find a suspicious bung someone had welded about 1/3 way down the front part of the pan, likely for a breather or maybe a dip stick. I've ground it pretty close to flush, hopefully won't hit a crank throw. Also been polishing chambers in aluminum heads. The Melling M-15 pump is also out, will look over but seems OK at first look. The rear oil slingers have been replaced with a Ford seal, so I don't anticipate the need for a drain pip
  15. It does get worse. You'll need new, reversed capacitors in the radio input circuit for negative ground. Then you need to pull the wire out of the ammeter and put through the opposite way so charge and discharge will read correctly. I built an electronic voltage reducer, but you can also use a 57 Ford vibrating instrument regulator. I connected a separate wire for the holding coil inside the OD solenoid with a resistor in the circuit to maintain 6 volts. Main solenoid works fine on 12 volts. Before I replaced the coils, I used a large resistor in the coil circuit, got really hot, but it d
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