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About abelincoln

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  1. It does get worse. You'll need new, reversed capacitors in the radio input circuit for negative ground. Then you need to pull the wire out of the ammeter and put through the opposite way so charge and discharge will read correctly. I built an electronic voltage reducer, but you can also use a 57 Ford vibrating instrument regulator. I connected a separate wire for the holding coil inside the OD solenoid with a resistor in the circuit to maintain 6 volts. Main solenoid works fine on 12 volts. Before I replaced the coils, I used a large resistor in the coil circuit, got really hot, but it did run. Then I found a nice 100 amp 12 volt alternator. Needed all this for electric fans, 1960 Lincoln top pump, and engine control computer. The starter loves 12 volts, spins nicely. But realize 12 volt conversion is not for everyone. Abe
  2. Don't know about 39, but someone in the dim past put 820-15 Denmans on our 48 LC, fits, looks and drives fine. Haven't tried skirts though. Early 60's Ford pickups had 16 inch rims with 5 X 5 1/2 bolt spacing. Don't know about back spacing. No hubcap clips either. Abe
  3. Thanks guys, here is the plan. I contacted H&H flatheads who can have Ross make some pistons for the Lincoln V-12, but they are quite costly. A second e-mail from H&H noted that the Hogan NZ heads do not have polished chambers, so I should feel free to grind in the offending area. This sounds good to me. Closer inspection finds a few casting flashings in the the chambers, so I plan to de-burr and polish with increasingly fine sand paper. Mean time, we'll pull the pan. I've got a Moroso dip stick that needs a welded bung, in the lower pan and I suspect the rear main oil drain pipe is loose, leading to low oil pressure. With any luck, will be running again by end of summer. Abe
  4. Piston no. 3 shown below. Seems that edge comes slightly above desk. Valve guide clips seem firmly in place. I had trouble earlier with keepers falling out when I went to adjust valves, and they now seem to go up and down without drama when engine is turned with the starter. I suppose if one piston hits, the rest must be close. Thanks
  5. I think Tom was right, the Egge V-12 pistons hit the roof of the cylinder head chamber. No, 3 has a mark on the swirl ridge in chamber, see below. So What to do? 1. Who makes pistons that are not Egge? 2. Would it be advisable to cut top of pistons? 3. I hate to touch the Hogan heads, but one could machine or even die grind the swirl ridge? 4. Might thicker head gaskets be available? I suppose one should make a trial fit with some play-do, grease, or foil on top of the piston, but the aluminum heads are difficult to get on and out, and the head studs are stuck really good. Thanks Abe
  6. The plot thickens. Knock seems worse in lower parts of motor, but is pretty loud everywhere. Noise occurs with fan belt on or off, but not wen cranking with the starter with ignition off. Compression is quite low in cylinder no. 8. I'm suspecting something serious. Bore is 0.060 over. Hmmm. Abe
  7. Our 48 V-12 finally started, something good for the stay at home order. However, it sounds terrible. https://soundcloud.com/user-17353757/20200408-102737a. Sine the recording, I fixed a couple mis-firing spark plugs and installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and put in fresh oil. Helped a bit, but there is still a knock about each revolution. Engine was rebuilt with solid, adjustable lifters on re-ground camshaft. Used a Melling M-15 oil pump. Put a pipe plug in the rear oil spring chamber, and thinking that some oil was still needed for the lifters drilled 1/16 holes in the plug and through the bottom of the front spring chamber as well as in the front plug so the timing chain would get some oil. Also put in a full flow oil filter by drilling a return hole in the rear of the engine and putting a plug between the filter out and filter in lines. Pressure gauge reads about 20 lbs, I think it should be more. Seems to be good volume of oil flow. Still does not run well, idles too fast. Any suggestions before we pull the pan? Abe
  8. Do you have the correct pickup tube and screen for the M-15? Not the same as the original. I got mine from Mac's. Abe
  9. Wish we could purchase at the original parts list. Thanks for the wish list. Abe
  10. Uriel: I also think a good place to start is the distributor. When you take it off, you'll notice what a mechanical marvel it is. There are two sets of points, each fires plugs on both sides of the engine. look for broken springs on points, or frozen points. A way to test is to measure voltage at the points at the back of the coil, distributor assembly. Should be 2.5-3 volts each while running. (Watch out for the fan!) If the distributor is removed, note that one end of the tang is slightly larger, corresponding to the slot in the camshaft. It is possible to install backwards, don't ask me how I know. If you find the need to replace parts, might find someone with an old distributor machine, or send out. I've had good luck with Philbin Manufacture AKA flathead doctor in Portland. I suspect the coil is OK, but they can be rebuilt or replaced with two standard coils. Plug wires might also be bad after a long time sitting. Abe
  11. Anybody have a diagram of how oil flow works in the V-12? Looks like the pump sends oil to filter, rear main, and to lifter gallery. In the valley, I put the 1/8 pipe plug in the rear regulator, and drilled a 1/16" hole in the bottom of the front regulator to accommodate solid, adjustable lifters. By some miracle the engine started after a looong time of re-assembly, but was shut off due to excessive mechanical noise. So I took off the intake manifold to re-adjust the loose valves Problem was that re-ground camshaft has lifters lower in the boss in the block, and you have to lift valve and spring assembly to adjust. Anyway, after a few minutes of operation, I'm not seeing oil in the gallery, looks pretty dry, seems like there should be some oil present. I'm now concerned that not enough oil is getting to the lifters. Should I drill out the front hole bigger, or is everything OK the way it is? Advice to those considering similar mods: if the cam if is reground, also grind about 1/8 off the top of the lifter bosses to make lifter adjustment easier..
  12. Check the aftermarket suppliers for pulleys, ebay, amazon also. I've seen them at swap meets. I got one from Grainger, but needed to modify mounting boss to make it work. Then I converted the whole operation to serpentine belt. When the input capacitors fail on the radio, you may experience more static. They are likely bad anyway after 70 years. Abe
  13. You should consider replacing the input capacitors on the radio, and reverse the polarity. Worst problem is pulling the wire out of the ammeter and reversing direction so will read charge and discharge correctly. for the instruments, you can either build a solid state voltage reducer or use a 57 Ford vibrating regulator. 100 amp GM alternator with one wire works well with an adapter bracket for Ford you can also find on e-bay. then you don't need the regulator on the firewall. Abe
  14. Try measuring voltage on the low side of the coil with the engine running, (being careful of the fan!) Should be 2-3 volts on each side. I had a NOS distributor that had a bad spring on the points, took a long time to figure out. Try to find someone with an old test set that can dial in the distributor, check vacuum advance too. I've also had sparking at the terminal plate where the wires hook up. Really messy. Abe
  15. I tried hydraulic jack oil in the shock. First warm unit with light torch to get old oil out. Works better now.