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About jord

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  • Birthday 09/06/1948

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  1. Thanks to all, I will continue with the program, lot's to check again. The darn thing it starts ok when cold but I do not want a tow truck behind me to bring it home when and if I stall it. Frustrating for sure as I want it on the road for final tune up. Car is coming along fine otherwise, still lot's do do, but the little things are what is fun. Again big Thanks to all
  2. Thanks Tom, I am going to clean everything up and retry. I did measure the total circuit resistance and applied ohms law which gave me a 60 amp load, theoretically. The main problem is a 2.5 volt loss at the starter terminal on cranking, that is after everything is new with cables and relay.
  3. Thank you both very much for the insight, now I can concentrate on one starter only. I did not want to spend money on both and have one that is useless.
  4. My 1939 Lincoln has a 56 H block, and I cannot find any reference to starter type. I currently have two starters on hand one with the standard b-11350 Bendix drive and the other has the 5EH-11350 Bendix. The 5EH is about 1/2 inch longer than the other. I found an old note that mention it was used in the 47-48 years because they had a flexible flywheel. This I am curious about. It may well be that I have installed the wrong starter. Yet both behave poorly. The car starts but when hot the usual complaint , hard to start. Yes I have 4/0 cable and a new relay, also a 1/0 return ground from the sta
  5. Thanks Ken , I will email you
  6. Mac's sells a rebuilt starter for 175.00 less bendix parts while a new one comes complete with bendix parts for 170.00. Does anyone have experience with either? I have no rebuilders where I live. They also sell rebuild parts. Thanks again
  7. Thanks Tom. Yours look's good, mine moved when the lid closed. Today I used masking tape to hole it in place while I closed the lid and it seems to work. I will measure the length and check with them. Always appreciate the help from the forum. Could not do it otherwise.
  8. Thanks Tom I checked all over the net for pictures of the seal and some showed the metal lip, I felt it was wrong with the lip facing outwards but the lip was so flimsy it would have been broken off when the lid was closed. The issue is when the lid is closed it tends to pull the rubber inwards at the top. It would be quite easy to redo. The fender welting may be painted later, the time was short at the body shop so we just installed it with the fenders. Would be nice if photos were available for all the weatherstrip, I cannot get to the Lincoln shows to see what they should look like.
  9. Can some direct me with the orientation of the trunk seal? I installed it with then flap going outwards from the trunk and it looks awful. Should the seal be fully concealed fully by the trunk lid? I glued it down only on the flat part of the car. Thanks Again
  10. Purchased a new radius ball for my wishbone and was wondering how to lubricate it before assembly. Do I grease the inside of the ball first? and what about the outside before installing the cap. Do not want something that will deteriorate the rubber. 1939 LZ Thanks Again
  11. Thanks' Tom, really appreciate the help, it's getting harder to find information on the cars. Would prefer the hinge style but the car as just been painted so I will give it some thought. Really need mirrors on these cars. Thank you
  12. Which would be the most original, hinge pin mirrors or clamp on style. I am not sure how hard it would be to remove the hinge pins.
  13. Try removing the vertical track, it's supported by two screws top and bottom. This is what the welds are attached to
  14. Thanks' to both of you will take it apart
  15. Looking for the seat adjustment roller bearing, they go on the lower front seat base. 1939 Lincoln or Ford part Thanks'
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