John_Mc

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About John_Mc

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 12/20/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Crystal Lake, IL
  • Interests:
    Old Lincolns

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  1. John_Mc

    Just retired - need some advice

    Thanks guys, I should have written that I already have 4 antiques and am heavily involved in the hobby with local and national positions in the Lincoln & Continental Owners Club, so I have things to do. My interest is seeing what else I should look at with the extra time I now have. Thanks again!
  2. So after 42 years in the flooring business, I’ve reached God’s waiting room........retirement! Actually I’m really excited about my new life, and I’m looking for advice. I’m 66, in great health, live near Chicago and have a burning passion for antique cars. I guess I’d better if I’m here. Anyway, I’d like to do something with cars. I’ve thought about appraisals, car hauling, detailing or something I’ve not thought of as of yet. I’m free as a bird to travel, debt free, very personable and ambitious. Im not against partnering up with someone either. I’m not looking for a full time job, or to make a million dollars just want to enjoy life, meet interesting people and cars. Any ideas on where I should look? 847-997-9944 and thanks for any and all replies.
  3. fuel: gas odometer: 32000 title status: clean transmission: automatic type: convertible Here is an extremely original convertible. 32,000 original miles, original paint chrome etc. This car will need a top (motor works) and there is some rust in the body, henceforth the super low price, $8,900 FIRM. . Runs (390 2-V) and drives beautifully, radio and all options work very well. Spectacular interior with beautiful buckets and console! Call me for more details - 847-997-9944 Thanks!
  4. John_Mc

    1970 Ford XL Convertible

    I’m sorry Jeff, I’m asking $8,900 or best offer. Drives me crazy when advertisers don’t put a price in the ad. There is a 1968 F-100 calling me and I don’t have the room for both of these. 😩
  5. John_Mc

    1970 Ford XL Convertible

    odometer: 32000 title status: clean transmission: automatic type: convertible Here is an extremely original convertible. 32,000 original miles, original paint chrome etc. This car will need a top (motor works) and there is some rust in the body, henceforth the super low price. 390 2-V. Runs and drives beautifully, radio and all options work very well. Spectacular interior with beautiful buckets and console! Call me for more details and a ton more pictures - Call me to discuss 847-997-9944 Thanks!
  6. John_Mc

    collector cars in California fire

    Just wait a month or so for the mud slides
  7. John_Mc

    Tires/Tubes for 1947 LC

    I’d go to a Farm & Fleet store and order a tube there. They have an amazing variety of tubes available I think due to all the needs of the farmer
  8. John_Mc

    Overhaulin' a 1955 T-Bird

    Im so sick of seeing these arrogant “self-appointed” butchers mutilate original cars! Wish to see REAL craftsmen at work? Go to “Roads Less Traveled” restoration shop on YouTube. No tramp-stamped bearded hillbillies with foul mouths.
  9. John_Mc

    1937 Coolant Temp Issues - Again

    Colin, apparently the usual suspects with Lincoln Parts is having a very tough time finding a radiator based sending unit. Can you recommend a Willys dealer over hear that might have this sender??? Thanks in advance.
  10. John_Mc

    1937 Coolant Temp Issues - Again

    Thanks Roy, I will do as you have outlined, but as Tom has described, I need to focus on a sending unit based on the radiator installation. I’m glad I disconnected the wire before I destroyed the gauge or had a fire. I’m going to plug the head port and drive this car. I have had a little smoking issue with this newly rebuilt motor and after speaking with the rebuilder he also suggested to get it out and drive under load and at a high rpm. I’m working on finding a radiator sender right now.
  11. John_Mc

    1937 Coolant Temp Issues - Again

    Tom, thanks and i will go thru the steps you've outlined above as soon as I am able. In the meantime here i'm not sure how to interpret the results but here are the numbersfrom my tests today. The continuity tests were performed with the hot lead disconnected. Ohms 17.7 when cold Ohms 20.07 when hot Volts 3.24 when cold Volts 4.58 when hot Also, I discovered a broken wire from the output of the gauge to the sending unit; no wonder I was having no needle movement!!! . Once repaired I turned on the ignition switch and the needle did move slowly up towards HOT, in fact it pegged and HOT and beyond and fearful that I would burn out the gauge, disconnected the wire. It was similar to needle movement if I just grounded the hot lead. So now at least I have a gauge that apparently works and my sending unit must be the issue. Of course originally in 1937 the sending unit was in the radiator as opposed to the one I have now screwed into the head. I do not have teflon on the threads. I keep wondering if my gauge is not calibrated to work with a hood based sending unit.
  12. John_Mc

    36 brake shoe problems

    Looks like a beauty there, any more pictures??
  13. John_Mc

    1937 Coolant Temp Issues - Again

    Will do, you guys are just fantastic, thanks you for all the replies.
  14. John_Mc

    1937 Coolant Temp Issues - Again

    Tom, Hchris and Ray, in the 1932-1948 green service manual it says that all Mercurys and all Lincoln Zephyrs use the same sender that will vary resistance based upon engine coolant. temperature. It also states that with the current turned off the gauge should be in the HOT position. Only when current is supplied will the needle move down to a normal position. So am I right in assuming that as the engine gains heat, the resistance increases, so in essence, the lower the current, the higher the gauge reading? My gauge without power shows cold, so I don't know what to think at this point. I will check today the resistance at the sender, with the power wire disconnected, to see if the value changes from cold to warm.
  15. John_Mc

    1937 Coolant Temp Issues - Again

    Ray, I grounded the lead going out to the sending unit and.................the temp needle jumped right up to HOT as I and hoped! So, it would appear that the issue is NOT the gauge, but is either a bad sending unit or an incompatible sending unit for the gauge. Also, I decided to run a parallel wire from the output of the dashboard gauge post out to the sender and fired up the engine. This time the needle did move very slowly up to hot and stayed there on a barely warm engine. It took a full minute or so for this to happen. When grounding last evening, I grounded the hot from the ignition switch, only for a second so hopefully no damage has occurred.