19tom40

Go to http://www.efv8.org/site/index.php and order one for the year of your car

Here is a site to order parts for your 48 Mercury http://www.cgfordparts.com/Early_Ford_Parts.htm

I beleive it is from a 50 Ford.

I beleive it is from a 50 Ford.

I would have it cleaned in place. If the headliner is original, it is over 70 years old and probably very fragile and will tear easy.

I haven't removed a pan with the engine in a car in quite a few years, but I will relate what I remember. You have to drop the axle radius rods by removing the bolts holding the ball at the rear of the transmission. This will give you the clearance by the oil pump. You have already loosened the front mounts and raised the engine. I seem to remember that the rear oil pan cork seal doesn't like to stay in place when trying to install the pan with the engine in the car. You can use high tack or a similar sticky gasket cement to hold it in place. To remove the engine, you have to remove the hood, grill shell and radiator. Then remove the fuel line, wiring to the generator and ignition, the engine radius rods and the bolts to the transmission. Put a scissors jack under transmission to support it when you pull the engine. It will also help when you are putting the engine back in. You might also post your question on the Early Ford V-8 Club forum at: http://monkey.he.net/cgi-bin/suid/~kes4/dcforum/dcboard.cgi and the Ford Barn Forum at: http://fordbarn.com/

Here is a web site with engine identification information www.vanpeltsales.com

Have you tried Howell's http://www.fordor.com/ Or contact Paul Bradley http://www.bradleyfloorpans.com/ he may know who makes them.

In 1936, it was difficult to make an all steel roof die, so most manufacturers used a fabric insert for the roof.

Google 12 volt conversions. I hate to see another flathead replaced by a later engine. It takes all of the fun out of driving them.

Ford V-8 37-40. It will fit the 41 also, but the 41 had a different advance weights and was marked 11A on the shaft and weights.

If you have your old one it can be repaired. Look in Hemmings under services offered.

Drive the Buick Lucerne and then the Toyota Avalon and then say why people buy the Avalon. It gets worse gas milage, is smaller and noisier than the Lucerne.

C & G lists one in their online catalog. http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?Parta~PartSort~A0~~~~~A20~A11

Go to Auto Color library and you can get an exact match. http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1934-ford-pg01.jpg

Yes. Read the newest article in Old Cars Weekly about the new oils. Adding too much zinc can cause other problems. I would still do nothing and continue to use modern oil.

I have been informed that STP has enough anti wear additive to replace the ones left out of oil with an API rating of SM

IMHO nothing. My reasons are that the flat-head engines are slow revving engines and there is not the extreme pressure on the valve train as there is in the more modern engines. A stock cam and lifters should last a long time with the low mileage and low stress on these engines. There were a series of articles in Skinned Knuckles last year on this problem. They are good reading and help explain why you should do nothing and what to do if you are still worried. Any oil that has an API rating of SL will have enough ZDDP to protect engines that are susceptible to cam wear. Oil made for diesel engines and some speciality oils meet these specs. Kendall GT-1 High performance oil is another oil that meets the SL specification.

You can find the serial number information at: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_home.htm The serial number that you posted is not valid. The correct format for the serial number would be *I8-1234567*. If you delete the second 8 from your post (8-6526836) the serial number would be in the 1941 range of numbers.

The axle housing must be turned down and a sleeve put on it. Buy your sleeve from C & G parts (http://www.cgfordparts.com/Early_Ford_Parts.htm). They have the ones that have the correct hardness. Several of the other Ford parts suppliers use imported sleeves that have not been hardened and these will wear out in a few thousand miles. You will have to replace your axle. When the key way is worn, they tend to break and you could loose the wheel. The gasket set from C & G has different thickness gaskets. They are used to set the backlash and bearing preload.

C & G parts in California lists a kit in their parts catalog. Their P/N is 8CM-9590. Their site is: http://www.cgfordparts.com/Early_Ford_Parts.htm

What was the voltage that you measured at the coil? It should be around 6V with the points open and about 3-4v with the points closed. If you get these readings, the points are probably OK. Did you do anything between the time the car ran and when it would not start? Sometimes the replacement parts are worse than the old parts. Especially coils and condensers.

Check for spark while cranking the engine. I would need to know if the engine is the 46-48 59A model or the 49-53 8CM model ti give you more specific help.

In 1990, I had my trunk lock punched out in my 72 Cutlass convertible. At that time it easy to find a patch to repair the lock. I need to replace the lid now and the replacement lid needs the repair. Does anyone know where I can get the patch. It is much easier than welding up the hole and forming a new support area for the lock.

My son has a 1972 Cutlass convertible and wants new door weatherstripping for it. I would like personal opinions on which supplier has the best quality as far as fit and longevity. Thanks for your help.