19tom40

Members
  • Content Count

    739
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

53 Excellent

2 Followers

About 19tom40

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. John, the battery group is 2LF and the size is 10.25x6.75x8"
  2. That's called "patina". It took many years to acquire that look. We would like to see it.
  3. A lot of times the reason that the cable is stuck is due to hardened grease. The cable is usually lubricated with white lithium grease. This grease hardens over time and prevents the cable from moving. I would remove the cable from the car, coil it up in a shallow pan and fill the pan with Marvel Mystery Oil, automatic transmission fluid or Mineral Spirits and let it soak for a couple of days to soften the grease. If you can pull the cable out of the sheath, wipe the cable clean and lubricate it with Super Lube Synthetic grease. This stuff works great for sliding surfaces and does not harden. https://www.harborfreight.com/85-gram-super-lube-grease-cartridge-93744.html
  4. Your engine should be happy with regular gas. Seafoam is a good stabilizer and helps to control the water in the Ethanol fuel, lead substitutes are not needed. Use a good multi viscosity detergent oil. I use 10W 30 oil in my cars.
  5. Use a Ethelyn Glycol (Prestone, Zerox Peak are some brands) or a Propylene Glycol (Sierra) are both recommended for your engine. Do not use any of the extended life products, just a green colored antifreeze. Save some money and don't buy the premixed, buy the antifreeze and then buy distilled water at the grocery store. You will need approximately 3 1/3 gallons of anti freeze and the same amount of water to fill your system. Feel around the bottom of the hoses to see if they are leaking.
  6. When you use a multi-viscosity oil (10W 30 or any oil that has 2 weights), the second number is the viscosity equivalent of the oil when it is hot. The 10W is the equivalent of 10W weight oil cold and the 30 means that the oil would have the equivalent viscosity of 30 weight oil when hot. This "magic" is done with the viscosity improvers that were developed to give better cold and hot protection to the engine. I would not use a single viscosity oil in any car, there are designed to lubricate the small air cooled engines and are not suitable for automobile engines. I use 10W 30 in both my 40 Mercury and my 53 Lincoln. I tried heavier oils (20w 50 and 20W 40) in my 40 Mercury and found that the engine runs cooler with the 10W 30 oil.
  7. From FelPro's web site: " Fel-Pro head gaskets are also designed so that no additional sealers are needed. Modern facing materials and their pre-applied proprietary coatings will compensate for minor surface imperfections, resist scrubbing, and provide the proper amount of torque retention to create a true no-retorque head gasket. Use no sealers, adhesives or other additives with these gaskets. " I have had no problems with leaking head gaskets following their recommendations.
  8. You are welcome, let me know how you make out.
  9. You might try contacting the Denmark Chapter of the Early Ford V-8 Club to see if someone has a timing fixture to time your distributor or knows a business that could time your distributor. There is no club in Germany and Denmark is the closet European country the I could find with a club. Here is the contact information: Rie Kamp Tlf: +45 2334 3561 Email:multikamp@webspeed.dk
  10. The Fel-Pro composition gasket are far superior to the steel gasket that Ford used and the copper after market gaskets. Fel Pro says NO sealer and I support their recommendations. https://www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/clean-dry.html
  11. Perfect setting for a very nice car. Glad that you are able to enjoy driving it. How did it handle in the mountains?
  12. The design is similar, but except for the 36 LZ, there are very few parts that interchange with the Ford rear end. The axles for the 36-39 LZ is 86H-4235 indicating that there is a difference between it and the Ford axle. I don't have the specs for the LZ axles. Here are the dimensions of the Ford V-8 axles: 18-4235 (1932-1934) length 32.18" with an 18 tooth gear. 48-4235 (1935-1938) length 32.85" with an 18 tooth gear. 81A-4235 (1939-1941) length 32.85" with a 16 tooth gear 21A-4235 (1942-1948) length 33.70" with a 16 tooth gear
  13. Pull the springs away from the brushes and then push the brushes away from the commutator until the spring can rest against the side of the brushes. Assemble the starter and then push the brushes against the commutator. The springs will seat on the back of the brushes.
  14. They are both 1941 Lincoln Continentals, the condition appears to be either 5 (restorable) or 6 ( parts cars). You can go to your library and ask them to give you the price from 2019 Collector Car Price Guide. If they do not have the book, they can find it at a nearby library.
  15. I would try to check the gauge as Ray500 describes, because you may have a loose connection at the gauge. Make sure that your sending unit has the King Seely stamp on it. Some of the other sending units are of the resistive type and besides being inaccurate can damage the dash unit when the voltage goes out of limits. Here is a link to a King Seeley unit on E-Bay. The 3rd photo shows the logo. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1935-53-Ford-Mercury-Flathead-V8-Oil-Pressure-Sending-Unit-80lb-41A-9278/202608065816?epid=1922969814&hash=item2f2c61bd18:g:QUUAAOSwBRlcdDFC