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About 19tom40

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  1. The copper crush washers are required to get a good seal on the brass distribution block and are never part of a master cylinder repair kit. The rubber washer was installed in error by someone who worked on the car previously and is included in the kit for another application. Including extra parts in a kit is common practice when most of the parts in a kit are used for multiple applications.
  2. I have posted a link to this post for you. I hope that they go to someone that needs them
  3. Some engine cracks between the valves can be repaired by stitching(drilling and plugging a series of holes along the crack). The V-12 blocks are becoming rare, so it is a good idea to try to save some of the ones with repairable damage.
  4. CertJeff1, I agree completely with your response. That is why I tell people to do the voltage drop test to ensure that the starter circuit does not have excessive resistance, the cranking voltage test to make sure that the battery is OK and finally the starter current draw test to make sure that the starter is OK. The current draw test will show that the starter is needs to be serviced. The grounding circuit on the Ford starters is another common cause of a slow starter when hot. Restorers paint the pan and starter to make them look good and do not mask off the starter mounting sur
  5. If you are measuring the voltage at the starter terminal with the COM meter lead at the starter terminal and the + meter lead on the starter case, you are measuring cranking voltage voltage. That tells you more about battery condition than starter connection condition. You should read between 4.5 -5.5 volts. A lower reading indicates a battery capacity problem. This test should be done AFTER the voltage drop test has eliminated connection problems. Do the voltage drop test that I described to determine if you have a connection problem. The connections that it tests are battery to
  6. If both starters turn slow your best bet is to do a voltage drop test to make sure that all connections are performing properly. If the voltage drop from the battery to the starter terminal is 0.3V or less, the supply side connections are good. The grounded side connections voltage drop should be 0.1v or less. If all connections are performing as designed, the starter current draw test should be made. The starter should draw 150-200 amps when cranking the engine. To measure the voltage drop between the battery and the starter. Engine must be at operating temperature. 1 Connect
  7. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-PARTS-MANUAL-BOOK-CAR-TRUCK-BODY-CATALOG-1944-1952-V8-PICKUP-1951-1950-1949/224292266602?hash=item3438dc626a:g:kGgAAOSwV2NfosMK
  8. Most people with the later Lincolns are on the Lincoln Forum. https://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/index.php?sid=462a46c46e3e6c5eb9d74104299c9d3c
  9. I agree with Ken/Alabama and would like to add another tip. Staple a piece of welting, that is long enough to extend beyond the fender mounting, near each slot. Then mount your fenders and use the extra welting to pull the welting in place. One the fenders are tight enough to hold the welting in place, tear off the stapled pieces using a pair of pliers.
  10. If you look at your heads, it will be obvious. The longer studs go in the holes where the heads are the thickest. Get a thread chaser to clean out the threads in the block so that all of the studs will turn into the block with all of the threads in the block. Do NOT use a tap as it will cut the threads and you will have coolant leaks around the studs. Use a non hardening sealer like PERMATEX #2 on the studs to seal the threads in the block.
  11. Gerry, cover the access to the interior parts of the master cylinder before sand blasting. Any media that enters the master cylinder will shorten the life of the rebuild. When you hone the cylinder make sure that you do not remove too much material or the rebuild will not last very long. If there are rust pits in the bore of the cylinder, you must either replace or sleeve the cylinder in order to have a reliable master cylinder. New master cylinders are available at RockAuto.com and other parts houses from around $40 to $85. The Lincoln uses the same master cylinder as the Ford in
  12. The only advantage of an alternator over a generator is the ability of the alternator to supply a charge at low speeds. I had one on my Lincoln and changed it back to a generator. It did not supply a charge until the engine had run above 1,000 rpm and the diodes kept shorting out causing the battery to go dead overnight.
  13. John if the light is in the position that I show in attachment, would it provide the light? It looks like there is a small spring clip on the bulb holder, is there a slot that it could fit into on the ignition switch?
  14. It looks very rusty, you may not be able to rebuild it. To disassemble it, remove the retaining ring and then the guts should come out.
  15. John, I think that you have a switch that was not designed to be lighted. Try shining a light from the back and see if it shows around the cylinder. Here is a link to an E-Bay listing of a Lincoln switch. I believe that the Continental switch looked like that with a gold plated bezel. https://www.ebay.com/itm/123898678068
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