19tom40

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  1. If you are not getting a good stream of fluid out of both rear bleeder screws when you open them a full turn, the problem is likely the flex hose or the junction block after the flex line. Disconnect the flex line at the junction block and direct the hose into a container. Press the brake pedal and look for a good stream of fluid. If you get the fluid there,the problem could be the junction has debris in it or both rear wheel cylinders could also be bad. It is not unusual to get new defective parts
  2. If your Zephyr is a late 38, it may have come from the factory with the small bolt pattern. The Ford / Mercury wide 5 wheels are 16" x 4". Here is a link that talks about the wheels for the Zephyrs. Cable brakes in good condition are equal to hydraulic drum brakes in good condition in stopping power. The cable brakes require periodic maintenance to keep the cables working properly. Replacement parts are harder to find than the hydraulic parts. The hydraulic brakes require periodic system flushing to prevent rust from the moisture in the fluid from ruining the cylinders. The rust can lead to sudden failure of the brakes.
  3. If it is the same diameter as a Ford pump, I will give you a pump for the price of shipping. The Ford pumps have the pulley pressed on and do not have a roll pin.
  4. Have you tried posting them on the Early Ford V-8 Forum Classifieds? https://www.earlyfordv8.org/classifieds.cfm?t=For Sale&c=Parts and the Ford Barn Classifieds? The Ford Barn site is down for now. I did not see them posted in the Ford and Mercury 1932-1953 forum or the Parts for Sale forum on this site. You would probably get better results on one of those forums. They look like they are in decent shape and your price seems fair to me.
  5. Changing a 6 volt car to 12 volts causes more problems than it fixes. A 6 Volt system in good working order is also much easier to maintain. To make the change, you will have to have the starter, generator, hydraulic pump motor and any other motors converted to 12 volts. Then you will have to replace all of the light bulbs and find a reliable voltage reducer for the gauges. You will also need to have your coils converted to 12 volts. You will need a 12 volt voltage regulator and 12 volt relay for the overdrive. You will have to have the overdrive solenoid converted also. I may have missed some of the things needed, but it is not a inexpensive or easy project. There are many reports of voltage reducers for the gauges failing or damaging the gauges, so finding a good reducer is key. Reports are that the best ones is the one used on the 1957 Ford cars.
  6. I made a big mistake in my previous post, when using clay to check the clearances, you should turn the engine over by hand, turning it over with the starter could cause more damage. The correct way is to put a thin layer of clay (3/16"-1/4') on the top of the piston and turn the engine over until the piston is on it's way up. Oil or grease the combustion chamber so the clay does not stick to the head. Install the old gasket and head. Tighten the head nuts enough to make sure that the head will not lift up during the test, and then turn the engine over by hand for 1 complete turn or until you feel the resistance caused by the clay compressing. Remove the head and measure the thickness of the clay.
  7. That piston doesn't look like it has been hitting the head, but the final check would be to put a thin layer of clay in the top of the piston, replace and torque the head, turn the engine over with the starter and ignition off. Remove the head and measure the thickness of the clay at points across the piston. The clips can seem firmly in place even when they are not in the groove of the guide. Use a mirror to see that they are all in the groove of the guide. Crank the engine over with the starter and watch the guides to see if any of them move.
  8. I bet that you looked at the C clip more than a couple of times and did not see that. I would have never thought of that. Great job!!!
  9. Can you post a photo of the pistons at TDC? I will look for the photos that I took, I might still have them. I would use clay the check the clearance, it would be a lot easier than fitting new pistons. Grinding the top of the pistons is not a good idea. The best way to do it would be in a lathe, and then I would only do it if I could not get new pistons. Did you check the valve guide keepers (horseshoe clips) to make sure that they are in the guide groove and seated?
  10. There is a clamshell at the bottom of the shifting mechanism that allows you to get at the parts controlling the movement of the shift lever. You may not have to take it apart, just let some MMO get inside to loosen the grease that has hardened. If that doesn't work, disassemble and clean the parts. Take photos so you know how to get it back together as the parts catalog is not much help.
  11. 1946 Sedan body plate.
  12. There is a spring behind the door panel, you push the escutcheon towards the outside of the car and replace the pin. It is muche easier to write about it than do it. Bob Drake sells a tool that is supposed to make it easier. Here is a link to it: https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.aspx?Item=TL-111
  13. NAPA should be able to order it if they don't have it in stock.
  14. If the starter spins the engine, the battery is probably alright. Give it a good 10 second spray of the starting fluid and pull the choke knob out. You will have to push it back in when it starts. If the gas in the tank is from last June and it has ethanol in it, it is probably no good. If that is the case, pull the spark plugs and clean them with acetone, spray a little starting fluid on each one (not in the cylinder) to clean off the acetone residue. Drain the tank and put in fresh gas. You can add the old gas a couple of gallons at a time to your modern car's tank.
  15. There seems to be a lot of confusion about the VIN plate codes on the 1950"s trucks. Some sources list "N" as Meadow green, but the parts catalog lists "M" as Meadow green. I suspect that the "N" stands for Meadow Green and the parts catalog has an error. There are many errors in the parts catalogs. If you want to be positive about this, you would have to go to the Archives and get the information.