19tom40

When you bench bleed the new master cylinder, do NOT use the full stroke, just pump the first 1/2" of the stroke. The master cylinders made today can damage the seal at the far end of the stroke. After you mount and connect the master cylinder, use slow short strokes to build up pressure in the wheel cylinder before opening the bleeder screw. Try to prevent the pedal going all of the way to the floor and use slow stroke movement both ways when bleeding. After bleeding all 4 wheels, adjust the push rod by moving the pedal with your hand and listening for the click when the push rod touches the master cylinder piston. Adjust for 1/4" - 1/2" movement of the pedal before the push rod contacts the piston. I like to stay near the 1/2" limit until I have driven the car for a while. Brake fluid expands when it heats up and the longer space, allows me to determine if the fluid is getting hot enough to raise the pedal.

To limit the amount of oil flow to the filter. Without the orifice, you may have a hard time sealing the top of the filter housing

You can also fill the opening in a fitting and then drill a.062" hole in the solder.

Did you try Boose-Herrel. Give them a cal, they may know.

The input fitting should have a .062" orfice.

Low vacuum can be caused by valve timing. If the chain is off just one tooth, it could cause this symptom.

The size is 1/4-18 npt pipe plug. If you mean that you want the dimensions of the square fitting, I suggest that you measure it with calipers. The square is not a standard size because most of them were cast and then threaded. They can vary in size as much a 1/32". The size is quoted as a nominal 1/4". If a 12" crescent does not give you enough leverage, you fitting is rusted in pretty solid and you will have to clean the tank so it can be heated to remove or soak it for a while from the inside with a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.

Just use a 12" crescent adjustable wrench. Make sure that it is adjusted tight to the square and that you have 3 points of contact. I have tried many different types of wrenches on these and found that I get the best results with the crescent wrench. The fitting is a cast iron pipe fitting, so a regular wrench will not fit correctly. I replaced mine with a brass fitting, so it will not rust in place.

Would you buy a Mercury windshield seal? This thread pertains to 1939 and 1940 Mercury cars. The purpose is to determine if there are enthusiasts who need and would commit to buying (pre-pay) a new windshield seal for these cars. There is basically one manufacturer who produces these quality seals and the last production was close to 20 years ago. If there are enough buyers who would definitely purchase one, it might be worth it for the company to do a run. At this initial stage there are no prices to attach to the commitment, but a realistic "I'm in" is what is needed to move forward. You can PM me here or go to to the FordBarn.com ad PM av8coupe with your response. He is keeping track of the number to see if there is enough interest.

The 47 Monarch is a Ford with extra chrome and upscale upholstery. The engine most likely is a 239 cu in V-8 and may be rebuildable. The only way to tell is to disassemble it and check for cracks. $10K seems high to me. I don't know how to tell if the upholstery is original, but here is a link to some photos of Monarchs. https://www.flickr.com/photos/50312897@N02/galleries/with/72157701767959024 Here is a link to the Early Ford V-8 Club website, where you can get contact information on the Canadian Regional Groups. Someone there may be able to help you determine originality. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/Regional_Club_Directory.cfm

My cars both start with little cranking after sitting a couple of months. After sitting all winter, my Merc start after cranking 3 - 10 second bursts and my Lincoln takes about 8 bursts. My Lincoln carburetor leaks down so it takes longer to start. The key to starting after long periods of inaction is a one piece fuel line from the tank to the flex line, crimp the ferrules and then solder them at both ends, use a good flex line and a good sediment bowl cover gasket. Any vacuum leaks will slow the priming action.

Bill Hirsch staff have been known to give incorrect answers. Try this: http://www.skyliner.org/forums/showthread.php?684-Correct-engine-color-for-59-352

A fuel pressure regulator has to be on the output of the fuel pump. It should work if placed under the car. I would measure the pressure at the output of the mechanical pump. I cannot recommend any fuel pressure regulator as I am still running stock mechanical pumps on my cars. I would look for an electric pump that delivers a max pressure of 3lb. The Airtex E8902 is one for a 6 volt car.

Photo 1 with the wide bracket could be for the 1949 Ford. I have never seen that type of mount on a 1949-1953 Ford, Lincoln or Mercury car. The 49-53 generators that I have seen have a clamp that goes around the generator to hold the generator to the mount, so the the generator can be removed without disturbing the fan belt tension. The 49-51 Lincoln mount was shorter than the Ford or Mercury mount because the fan bolted to the block. The 52 Lincoln went to the Y-block and the generator was mounted under the V on these cars. The pulley and mount are different from the 1942-1948 Ford. In 1942 Ford and Mercury moved the fan from the crank pulley to a separate mount that bolted to the generator mount. This required a wider generator mount with threaded holes for the bolts that held the bracket to the generator. The 42-48 mount had raised edges on the generator mount to keep the fan mount in the correct orientation. Photo 2 is for the 1941 Ford and was used on the 41 Lincoln. The mount is the same as the 39-40 generator, but the 41 had a grounding lug where a wire that ran to the base of the regulator was attached.

How long doe the seal last? Bearings should have little effect on the seal.