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19tom40

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  1. I would take a hacksaw and shorten the longer of the 2 primary shoes and then sand or grind a short bevel on the end. The longer primary shoe may cause pulling and erratic brake operation. I usually leave the bleeder screw open when I install new shoes. This allows the cylinder piston to move inward and allow the shoes to seat on the anchor pin. Make sure that the key is installed correctly on the rear axles and fully seated in the keyway. The drums should slide almost all of the way with about 1 turn of the nut to bring them tight against the backing plate.
  2. They are to seal the wheel bearing grease. The grease that they used back in the day, became runny when you drove in traffic and would seep out of the key way.
  3. Jim, thank for the new resource. I tried to find out membership information, but their website is not responding at this time. I am glad that your wiper problem has been resolved. That is a nice feature.
  4. That is a seal for the wheel bearing grease. It should be made of fiber. The part is the same for all 32-48 Ford, Lincoln and Mercury. I did not see the seal in their online catalog, but this outfit is in Canada and may have them. Address: Blue Oval Classics 825 Tecumseh Rd. W., Windsor, ON N8X 1H4 Telephone: 855-444-6872
  5. You may be able to get original instructions from the Archives. I can give you the P/N of the Mercury kit. If there was a Lincoln kit, it may have had the same P/N with 5EH prefix. The Mercury kit is P/N 51A-18293. You might also check with the tech sources on the LZOC site. I will go through the WW parts I have as spares and let you pick which parts you want. I cannot guarantee that any of the pumps will work after rebuilding and i don't know anybody that rebuilds them any more. Give me a call and we can set up a time to get together.
  6. These are photos that I found of a car for sale with the windshield washer. I don't know if it is correct. https://classiccars.com/listings/view/1293298/1948-lincoln-continental-for-sale-in-staunton-illinois-62088
  7. I meant to post my last post in a reply to Detroitsoul and somehow it ended up here. I hope that he reads it. Before using an air gun, I would contact the manufacturer of the puller. I would also ask if a hammer blow to the thrust bolt will damage the puller or the axle. I would check to make sure that the shoes are not rubbing on the drum and then try the puller again. Penetrating oil seldom has an effect on removing the drum, because it is difficult to reach the surfaces where the drum is being held. The taper on the axle and the taper inside the hub is where the hol
  8. The Early Ford V-8 Club also has Lincoln cars from 1932 to 1953 cars covered. Here is the contact information for the Regional Group in Stockton. give them a cal to see if they can recommend someone to assess the mechanical condition of the engine and the rest of the car. Big Valley (RG# 26) PO Box 5649 Stockton, CA 95205 Contact: Dorothy Patscheck PH: (209) 471-6704 You need someone to assess the mechanical condition of the car before any repairs are attempted. Get at least 2 different assessments before making any commitments. If fuel has been left
  9. The shop manual says to remove the headlight switch: Remove the knob set screw and then remove the knob. Next remove the nut that holds the switch to the bracket and remove the switch from the back of the dash. The wires are soldered onto the switch. I would try to operate that switch about 50 or so times to clean the contacts before going through the removal process. Do it with the battery disconnected. Then reconnect the battery and retest. If you still get the low reading, you will have to remove the switch to replace or repair it. I just saw this. You should po
  10. If you need to prime your carburetor after sitting overnight, you probably have some sort of leak in the carburetor. This is especially true with the ethanol free fuel that you are using. To check for an empty float bowl, operate the accelerator linkage while looking into the carburetor. You should see a short steam of gas come into the throat of the carburetor. If you do see the stream, see if adjusting your automatic choke to close when the engine has been sitting overnight will fix your hard starting. If you don't see the stream, the carburetor should be rebuilt.
  11. Here is a link to the procedure to re-install the tank. Good luck. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=3643&keywords=
  12. The windshield washer was first used in the 1930's and it was an option on pre-WWII luxury cars.
  13. The Ford specifications that I have say 1/16" to 1/8". Too much toe in will lead to stiffer steering. You should make sure that there is no side to side play in the steering before adjusting the toe in. I like to jack up one wheel and try to move it to check the side to side play. Grab the front and rear of the tire and try to move it as if it were going to make a turn. There should be no movement in either direction. If there is, you will have to look for the source and repair it before adjusting toe in. You can use the ruler method or you can find a shop that does tru
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