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About 19tom40

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  1. Incorrect spark timing can cause poor mileage and overheating. Have you checked your point dwell at various speeds? Worn distributor bushings can cause the dwell to vary and change the timing. Worn timing gears or a stretched timing chain will also cause the timing to vary. If your timing marks are on the vibration damper, it is a good idea to check that the TDC marker is correct. Some vibration dampers can slip on the pulley and give you an incorrect indication of TDC.
  2. George, I don't mean to get into an argument, but the Fel-Pro and Victor gaskets already have a coating that will seal the imperfections. Adding another sealer will defeat the purpose of the coating. Most head gasket failures are caused by incorrect procedures in preparation and installation.The block and the head should be surfaced when the head gasket is replaced. Most blocks and heads from the early years have enough meat to facilitate this. The copper spray does not give a thick enough coating to seal any large imperfections and small imperfections should be handled by a good gasket. The threads on the fasteners must be clean and lubricated according to the engine manufacturer's specifications. The torque wrench should be checked for accuracy and the fasteners tightened in stages. I believe that asbestos gaskets were last made in the 1970's and I would not trust them on my cars.
  3. If you are going to drive the car on public streets, use new rubber parts. If you are just going to drive it from your trailer to the Concourse, you could probably get away with using the older hoses. You should still flush your system on a regular schedule as the moisture in the fluid can cause damage to the braking system.
  4. If your gasket is made by Olson or Best Gasket company, they both recommend a copper spray. If it is a NORS Victor or Fel-Pro, the recommendation from the manufacturer is no sealant. I would follow the manufacturer's recommendation, they engineered the gasket and it will give the best performance using their recommendations.
  5. To just move the car a short distance, you can try pumping the brake pedal, but you should plan on rebuilding or replacing the master cylinder as you have been given a signal that it will fail soon.
  6. The sending units are the same as used in the Fords P/N 8A-10884 for the passenger side head and 8A-10990 for the driver's side head. If the dash unit is not showing the temperature, read my previous post to trouble shoot. It will save you time and maybe money. Before dragging the car back to Ohio, I would contact an AACA member that is familiar with Lincolns or Fords in the Chicago area and offer to pay him to check out the problems. If they are caused by the new owner, make him pay the bill, if it was your fault, you will pay the bill.
  7. The Chassis Parts Catalog shows that the 52 Mercury required a non-vented cap. The short filler pipe required a different venting system than the side mounted filler pipe to prevent spilling of the fuel while driving.. There is a picture of the fuel system on page 192 of the 49-53 Mercury parts catalog that shows the vent hose going from the tank to the filler pipe via a pipe in the fender. The P/N are MA-9107 and MA-9108.
  8. Thanks for your reply, Jon. Do you know where I can find the Holley specifications for the carburetor? If I ever come up with a fix, I will let you know what it was.
  9. Thanks for the reply Jon. Your explanation of the accelerator valve action and conclusions make good sense. I am looking for anything that could cause the fuel to leak out and cause the fuel bowl to be empty when I go to start it. I have another carb sitting on my bench. If I fill the bowl enough for the float to close the needle valve and let it sit over night (about 12 hours), more than half of the fuel is gone in the morning. I know that it is not evaporating that fast as I have a Ford 91-99 carb that I can fill the bowl to just above the end of the power valve and it will take 4 or 5 days before the fuel is below the top of the valve. I know that there are no cracks in the fuel bowl because the bottom of the bowl is dry. The carb on the car does the same thing. The car runs and performs well in all weather during the driving season, except for a flooded condition when the engine is shut off and I try to restart the engine after 10-15 minutes. The carb on the car was purchased from a re-builder 3 years ago. It replaced one that had this problem along with bent choke linkage, idle problems and other performance problems. It was cleaned and a Daytona Carburetor kit was installed. I also installed a NOS vent kit that installs a vented accelerator pump shaft and repaired the choke linkage. This is the one that I have on my bench. If you have any suggestions that I could try, I would be more than willing to do this.
  10. Jon, Thanks for the reply. Yes I am sure that the fuel is leaking. I get similar results with the carburetor off of the car and the spark plugs on cylinders 2 and 3 are wet when I remove them after the car has sat overnight. As I said in my original post, if I put a small amount of pressure on the top of the needle, the bowl is still full of fuel after a couple of days. I used a weak coil spring on top of the needle to apply the pressure. using the spring while driving is not an option as it interferes with the travel of the needle.
  11. I am not sure if the sending units are the same as Ford, I can look it up on Monday. The first question I would ask is "Did you use Teflon tape on the threads when you installed them?" If the answer is yes, have him remove the tape as it is not allowing the sending units to ground properly causing an open circuit. If the answer is no, trouble shoot the problem using the following steps. To troubleshoot the problem, ground the wire from the dash gauge and then turn on the ignition switch for a moment, the gauge needle should move to cold. If it doesn't move towards cold, the problem is at the gauge end (loose wire or bad gauge) If it does move, then by pass the sending unit with 2 terminals by attaching both wires to one post of the sending unit. Turn on the ignition switch, the needle should go towards cold. If it does, run the engine and note whether the temperature changes. If the temp doesn't change, the sending unit is bad. If the single terminal sending unit works, the 2 terminal unit is bad.
  12. I have a 53 Lincoln with the Holley 4 barrel teapot carburetor. The bowl empties overnight. If I put pressure on the accelerator discharge needle, the fuel level in the bowl will stay at the level it was the night before. I have tried seating the needle by giving it a sharp tap as described in the service manual, but it still leaks down. Does anyone have a solution to this problem?
  13. The rotors look like the 32-26 ford rotor
  14. The door lock is the same key pattern as the ignition lock. I would remove one of the door locks and take it to a locksmith and have a new key made. Look for someone who has been in business for a long time or use one of the locksmiths that advertise in the hobby publications. If your locks did not match before, you can remove the complete switch and have a locksmith pick the lock, remove the cylinder and use the numbers to cut a new key. Your other option is to buy a complete ignition switch with lock and key. The cylinder cannot be removed without damaging it or the switch.