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About 19tom40

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  1. In order for the windows to go up, the pump has to be running and the reservoir full. Spring pressure lowers the windows. First, I would like to know the year and body style of the car. Next, do all of the windows fail or just one? Does the top work? What work has been done recently on the electrical system of the car?
  2. Gas should come out of the tank when the fuel line is disconnected from the tank. Try blowing compressed air into the tank via the fitting to clear the pickup line. If that works, I would drop the tank and clean the inside. I have always taken my tanks to the radiator shop, but I recently read a post that suggested Dawn dish washing soap to clean the tank.
  3. I don't know if the limo and sedan door glass is the same, but you should be able to get the correct size glass from Sanders in Vancouver, WA. They will do the black edging and maybe even have the correct logo or you can provide a photo from a good piece of glass and they will reproduce it on your glass. https://www.sandersreproglass.com/ If you have another piece of glass, you can measure it or trace the outline on paper and have the glass shop check if they are the same.
  4. A bad condenser would show up as weak spark at the plugs fed by it's side of the distributor.
  5. The finish on the supports is most likely silver cadmium plating. You can try using Evaporust on them to bring back the color. The plating is very thin, so any abrasive will remove the plating. Eastwood sells a paint that is supposed to look like cad plating, but in MHO it just looks like aluminum paint.
  6. According to the 1942 Ford Body Parts Catalog the correct regulator is P/N 01C-8123200 for right side and 01C-8123201 for the left side. The same regulator was used in commercial vehicles from 1941 - 1947. With the gear facing away from you the measurement given is 9.87" from the widest parts on the regulator. The lengths of the arms is not given. Try Regulator Roy for them http://www.regulatorroy.net/index.htm
  7. Have you tried using https://www.rearcounter.com/ to search for one using the Lincoln P/N?
  8. I filled a container with MMO and then submerged the portion of the speedometer housing that has the magnet. The container that I used was an old tin measuring cup, the housing just fit into it. I did not disassemble the speedometer, as it was a NOS one that had just been in its packaging for 75 years.
  9. What was the reason you removed the starter?
  10. When the magnet does not spin, I soak the end of the housing in Marvel Mystery Oil. It may take a couple of weeks to free it up. Try turning it ccw every couple of days. The second photo shows a severely damaged speedometer. The spring will have to be replaced along with the needle. If it were mine, I would look for another unit.
  11. I believe one side of your coil is bad or the condenser on one side is bad. Here is a link to a wiring diagram for your car. http://www.boos-herrel.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/download4678.pdf As you can see, wires from the right cap cross over to the left side and visa-versa. you can have your coil rebuilt by Skip Haney in Florida. http://www.fordcollector.com/coils.htm I use a SnapOn coil tester to test the coils. Use power from the ignition resister to power the coil while testing, a full 6 volts will damage a good coil during the heat test.
  12. A compression check would let you know if you have stuck valves. If 10 cylinders pass the compression test, you can use the MMO to free the others. The V-12 will start and run on 6 cylinders as quite a few people have found out when their Lincoln runs but has no power. The way that I would approach the starting problem is to do a compression check to see if the valves and rings are working. Next I would check to see if I had good spark at all cylinders. Next I would make sure that the engine was getting fresh fuel into the cylinders. Come back here with your questions if the checks do not provide good results.
  13. You can try dribbling Marvel Mystery oil into the carburetor with the engine running about 1,000rpm. After 1/2 of the quart container is empty, pour the rest into the engine fast enough to kill it, but not fast enough to cause a hydraulic lock. Let it sit a couple of days and repeat the procedure. If that doesn't free up your valves, you will have to do a valve job on the engine with new springs and guides. Cast iron heads should come off with a little persuasion. Aluminum heads are more difficult. Let us know which heads you have and then we can give you help for which procedure to use.
  14. The rotor is the long piece that goes from the back of the distributor to the front of the distributor. It has 2 protrusions, one distributes spark to the front terminals of the caps and the other to the rear terminals of the caps. I agree with Ray500 that your distributor and coil should be checked out by an experienced Lincoln distributor person. Skip Haney in Florida and do that and rebuild your coil as well. Jake also does both, but he has had some health issues lately and may take more time than Skip to do the job. http://www.fordcollector.com/
  15. Detergent oil was available in 1948, multi-viscosity oil didn't become popular until the late 1950s. A good quality multi-viscosity oil is a good choice. The viscosity improvers allow the oil to provide good lubrication at all temperatures.