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19tom40

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  1. Glad to see that you finally sorted out all of the bad workmanship of the engine shop. Car looks great. Enjoy driving it.
  2. If you are looking for one stop shopping, Boos-Herrel is the best source. There are other vendors that have the parts you listed and you can get some of them, like spark plugs at a local parts store. http://www.boos-herrel.com/
  3. The parts catalog does not show a roller there. It appears to just be a guide that keeps the channel ride along the window guide.
  4. Your best bet is to look for a used one. It would be the same from 1942-1948 Ford or Mercury all closed body styles. Try recyclers like French Lake auto parts. Here is a Craig list contact for used Ford parts. https://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/d/high-ridge-ford-and-mercury-parts/7188395523.html
  5. I had trouble relating your photo to the parts catalog drawing, so I am posting the drawing so you can look at it yourself and determine what you need.
  6. Those fittings are pipe thread, so be careful when cleaning them.
  7. IMHO you should not use a rubber hose on the suctions side of the fuel pump. The fuel pump has to lift the fuel about 12" and rubber hose connections tend to loosen and leak vacuum. This shows up when the car has sat for a while (4-7 days) and you cannot get it started without priming the carburetor. The flex line from the tank line to the fuel pump does not use the worm gear clamps and will stay tight after many years of use. The Ford products of the 1930's and 1940's are mounted high on the engine and do not have the pressure of the fuel in the tank to help lift the f
  8. Andrea, you don't have to be a Lincoln expert to trouble shoot your problem, any good mechanic familiar with antique cars should be able to help. The first step you should take is to check for spark at the spark plugs. You can use a pair of insulated pliers to hold a plug wire close to a head nut or buy an adjustable spark tester like this one: https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/ignition-spark-tester You can do a quick check on fuel by removing the air cleaner and spraying some starting fluid into the carburetor, then try to start the engine. If it runs for a s
  9. The serial number that you posted is from a 1948 Lincoln V-12. The 337 truck motors had solid lifters and the Lincoln motors had hydraulic lifters.
  10. The cotter pin's purpose is to keep the hole open so excess oil can drain out. I don't think that the 46 V-12 had a rear main bearing rope seal, the parts catalog only shows the slinger type rear seal. Boos-Herrel sells a conversion kit that uses a graphite seal. All of the V-12 engines, after 1940, came with a pipe (P/N 40-6328) that fits into the rear main cap and directs the excess oil back into the pan. With the stock oil pump and good rear main bearings, very little oil will drip from the clutch housing. If your clutch is oil soaked, you wil
  11. I don't know the answer to your question. Post this question on the Early Ford V-8 Club's website. While you are there, buy the 35-36 book as it will answer quite a few of your restoration questions.
  12. Yes,we are all healthy. I have kept busy by fixing some of the small things on my Roundtuit list for my Lincoln. I haven't started on the shorter list that I have for my Mercury. With all of the summer activities cancelled there is no pressure to get thing done.
  13. John, to check the linkage adjustment place the shift lever in neutral and then make sure that the shifting levers slide onto the shift levers easily. Check to see that the shifting lever grommets are not worn so that they move the trans levers completely into gear. There are kits to replace the worn grommets. The shift lever detents in the side cover of the transmission could be worn. Check by removing the shifting lever for 2cd and 3rd, then move the transmission lever into 2cd and then 3rd, you should feel a positive engagement in both gears. At the same time check for play in
  14. I don't have a 1948 Lincoln wiring diagram, so I can only give you general and typical information. I am not sure about the 1948 Operator's Manual, but the one for my 40 Mercury has a wiring diagram. You can do an online search for a wiring diagram also. The hot wire from the brake switch usually comes from the circuit breaker and goes to a connector just inside the engine compartment and then to the brake switch. The switched wire will go to the stop light in the middle of the car and to the turn signal switch on cars with turn signals. The wires going to and leaving the switch ha
  15. The brake light switch is located at the back of the master cylinder, under the floorboard. You have to raise the car and get under the drivers side to access the switch. There are 2 wires on the switch, connect them together with a short piece of wire with alligator clips on both ends. Your brake lights should light if the circuit is OK. If they do, replace the stop light switch. It is available at your local parts house. If the lights do not light up, check for voltage at the green wires on the switch, you should have battery voltage on one of them with the jumper disconnected.
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