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About 19tom40

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  1. I would have your radiator re-cored with the best core the shop has.
  2. Try changing one of the failing spark plugs with a working spark plug. Sometimes a spark plug will work outside of the engine, but will not work under compression. Is the spark on cylinders 5 and 8 as strong as it is on the other cylinders? The low oil pressure could be alright. It should be checked with a mechanical gauge to be sure. If the engine does not make knocking sounds it is alright to run the engine and drive the car.
  3. It is cleaning up very nice. You are going to have a problem finding ready mixed paint to match your black. I painted my 40 Mercury black, just to see how straight it was and my wife liked it black. Every time I got a stone chip, I was sorry that I did not buy enough black paint to save some for touch up. Black is one of the hardest colors to match. You might want to try the One Shot Lettering Enamel Black. It doesn't have as high a gloss as the automotive paints and is self leveling. If that big smear over the wheel opening doesn't clean up using a little rubbing compound, you will probably have to use an airbrush to get a good cover without brush marks.
  4. Have you contacted Skip Haney for an estimate? I still believe that rebuilding the stock set up will be less than $400. I don't know about the point corrosion problem, but I do know that there are quite a few people owning cars with points driving around Florida.
  5. My experience has been the same as Larry's. If you try to tighten the distributor with the timing anything but correct, you will crack the housing. At 180 out and the tang in the camshaft, one or more of the bolt holes do not line up.
  6. 40 years ago I built my own adapter for my 40 Mercury, from a defective after market coil. It worked better than the adapters that were available at the time, but I still had intermittent issues of the spark failing. I tried several after market new coils, NOS coils and reproduction coils and all of them gave me problems, so I kept my adapter. In the middle 1990's, I sent a coil off to Jake Fleming for rebuilding. It came back and worked great until I left the ignition switch on with the car not running. I would never return to an adapter and still have a rebuilt coil on my car. There are many stories about sudden failures in the Pertronix electronic components in older Fords and Mercury's. The transient spikes and poor grounding system in the older cars lead to premature failure. You are on a budget and the least expensive way to solve your problem is to have the original coil rebuilt and the distributor set up on a distributor machine by a competent operator. You are in Florida, so I would suggest that you send your coil and distributor to Skip Haney in Punta Gorda. He will rebuild your coil, check out the distributor and return them to you in a few days. Once you install them, you are good for at least 15,000 miles of trouble free ignition. Then you will probably have to change the points. http://www.fordcollector.com/coils.htm I know that you did not want to hear about how great the original system is, but I have been driving flathead Ford products since 1950 and felt that you might benefit from my experience.
  7. Your starter will not last as long using 12 volts to operate it. Ring gear damage is also possible, due to the increased speed at engagement. If you are determined to go to 12 volts, then i would recommend that you have your starter converted to 12 volts.
  8. Those codes are in the shop manual or in the Body Parts Catalog. Lincoln Mercury Old Parts Store has a scanned copy online. That is one of their great services. I have found them to give the best service when they have the parts that you need. The paint code 136 is Starmist White over Oxford Gray Here is a link to their site https://www.lincolnoldparts.com/parts-books
  9. Here is how to decode the data plate, I am sorry but I do not have the trim, paint and option codes for a 57 Lincoln
  10. posted to wrong topic
  11. Larry has answered the question about installing the distributor 180 degrees out, you also asked about the rotor, it has a flat spot on the inside that fits onto the distributor shaft so it cannot be installed upside down. What year car are you working on? Do you have spark at the plugs?
  12. HB720-4023 looks like it might be the body number, the frame number ( H40609 ?) would be the same as the motor serial number. That number falls in the serial number range for the 1937 Zephyr ( H-15,550 to H-45,529 ).
  13. You are a brave man. I hope that you will be able to find all of the parts you need to restore the car. I would also like to see your progress on the car. It would be interesting to see how you restore all four fenders and fix the floor.
  14. There are not a lot of parts reproduced for the pickups. I suggest that you post your questions about the truck on the Early Ford V-8 Club Forum. They also have a classified section where you can post ads for needed parts. Here is a link to it. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewtopics.cfm?Forum=17 The hubcaps that you need are the 1939 standard cap. If you have 5 of them, your best bet is to restore the caps that you have. Here is a link to a photo of the correct hub caps on The Ford Barn (another good site for restoration answers. They are not being reproduced. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181924
  15. You have a real prize in that car, it should give you many years of enjoyment. I like that photo of your 4 year old using the come a long. It would have been a real treat to see his face as he was using it.