19tom40

I would use a 90 or 140 wt GL-4 spec oil. The 140 seems to make shifting easier in the earlier transmissions. It slows thw gears slightly to give the synchronizers time to match the gear speeds. The GL-4 spec on easier on the brass parts. I would follow the directions on lubricating the Columbia that you received from the rebuilder.

I modified a 50 Ford truck air cleaner to take a standard paper element. The task was easy, but now the element is no longer available. The paper elements do a better job of filtering, but also restrict the airflow much more than the stock oil bath air cleaner. You need a deep filter as well as allowing airflow around the outside of the filter to allow enough airflow so that the engine will not be running rich. The round elemnts are fast disappearing from the parts houses. I don't know if K&N makes a round filter that would fit inside of the LC air cleaner. If they do, will they continue to make for the next 15 years? Once you convert the air cleaner, it cannot be used as an oil bath cleaner again. IMHO, you are much better off using the original aircleaner as an oil bath cleaner than converting it to a paper element.

The best penetrating solution to free up parts is the 50-50 solution of trans fluid and acetone. Next on my list is Marvel Mystery Oil. With any penetration oil, you must have patience, Blalster and Kroil are useful for nuts and bolts that not rusted solid, but they would not be my choice for freeing up a frozen shock absorber. If you are planning on rebuilding the shock yourself, I would reconsider it. It takes special equipment and techniques to open up these shocks and it is much cheaper to have them professionally rebuilt than to buy the equipment or replace the parts broken while trying to disassemble the parts.

Lee, I freed up my speedometer by finding a container that would hold the working part of the speedometer and not the face. I filled the container with enough Marvel Mystery Oil to soak the works and then let it soak. I took it out once a week and tried to move the drive using a bent cotter pin. After about 4 weeks, I was able to move it, then I used the cotter pin to work the drive back and forth every day until it was completely free. The speedometer works fine now. I did pull the small cap covering the oil wick and oiled the wick with a fine oil similar to 3-in-one. You will pay a big price to have this done for you, as they will completely rebuild the speedometer drive.

You should post photos of the blocks. Some years are more in demand than others.

Here is a link to the auction site http://www.vanderbrinkauctions.com/auctions_details.php?detail=165&allimages=NO

Here is a link to a post that has the serial numbers. http://forums.aaca.org/f128/1948-continental-vin-numbers-299946.html

I was searching for another topic and found this one. It shows the 1941 Continental dash controls. I hope that this helps you. http://forums.aaca.org/f128/1940-zephyr-convertible-new-owner-questions-284081.html

John, I Googled 1937 Zephyr Jack" and found this site http://www.mindspring.com/~bozarth/id7.html

The Model Y was an English Ford and it used the "side valve" engine. Google "Ford Model Y" or "Ford side valve engine " for more information.

Try TCP Global. http://images.tcpglobal.com/chips/1940-Ford-pg04.jpg Look for the contact information and give them a call. I will send you a PM with Mike Kubarth's E-Mail

You should still check out the cause of the problem. It would not be nice to have the brakes fail again when you are away from home and have to be towed home.

If the clutch pedal was stuck all the way down, you may be missing a return spring. If it was stuck all the way up, you will have to investigate the type of grease used to lubricate the bushings and for contamination on the rubber bumpers on the pedals. You may also have some water or moisture that turned to ice.

Hi John, What kind of oil pressure did you have when you last drove the car? If it was low, you might want to have the oil pump checked out. Here are the V-12 Engine specs from the Service Bulletin. Use Plastigauge to measure the clearance. http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html Zephyr engine specs 2_NEW.pdf

The brake shoes could be stuck to the drum, this would make it hard to move, but the brake lights would be off. There may not be enough free play at the pedal, keeping pressure on the shoes and the brake light switch, this would make it hard to move and the brake lights would be on. The dual master cylinder may not be compatible with the brake system on the car, making some of the shoes putting pressure on the drum. My suggestion is to jack up the car and check each wheel to see if it can be turned. If all of them are frozen or just the front or back frozen, try opening the bleeder screw on the right rear wheel to relieve the pressure on the rear brakes and the right front wheel to remove pressure on the front brakes. If this solves your problem, there probably is not enough pedal free play. If it does not solve the problem, you can try backing off the adjustment cams to see if the brakes are not correctly adjusted. You may have to pull a drum to see what is causing the problem. If this doesn't help, please post specific information on what you are experiencing. Your original post was too vague to give you a specific course of action.

Try Roy Nacewicz. He has most bolts used by Ford as well as many other restoration supplies. http://www.fordscript.com/

John, The owner's manual for the Ford had the brake adjustment procedure in it, maybe the Zephyr manual also has the instructions. The Ford Service Bulletins covers a step by step procedure to inspect and adjust the brakes. A book covering 1932 - 1937 Service Bulletins is available in reprint from Macs, or I can copy the pages that I have pertaining to the Zephyr brakes for you. I think that most of them are in my copy of the Service Bulletins. http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/books-manuals-and-dvd.html Mechanical brakes need lubrication at the pivot points and for the cables. You may find wear in the pivots in your system. If so, it should be repaired to give you good brakes. I also have the reproduction hub puller for the rear drums, if you would like to borrow it. It is the only safe way to remove the drums on a Ford product. Any puller that does not hook into the groove on the rear drum, can damage or break the drum.

Have you tried a local auto paint supplier? Most of them can access the data base for conversion to the new acrylic paints. My other suggestion would be TCP Global. The Ditzler number for the formula is 50429 http://autocolorlibrary.com/

According to the book the Judkins Berline and the Limousine both have the divider window. Judkins made a 3 window Berline and a 2 window Berline in 34. There were only 37 of the Judkins 2 window Berline delivered in 1934 and 17 of the 3 window version. Each custom builder had its own definition of the configuration of a Berline. A Berline is supposed to be a sedan or a more informal configuration than a limousine. The limousine usually had a higher roof to accommodate the top hat, it also had a more prominent divider window and was usually a 7 passenger vehicle.

According to the "Cars of Lincoln Mercury" the Berline had side facing jump sets and the Limousine had forward facing jump seats. The photo of the Limousine show 3 side windows and the Berline has the 2 side windows. The book doesn't say if blind quarters were an option. I hope this helps.

I don't know any typical trouble spots for these cars, but there is quite a lot of expedience with these cars on the Lincoln Forum. http://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/

If your starter will not turn over the engine when hot, here are some items to check. Check battery condition. Most battery stores like NTB can check the capacity of the battery as well as its condition. Even a fairly new battery can fail. Check for bad or undersized cables. Connect a volt meter between the NEG battery terminal and the terminal on the starter, crank the engine with the ignition off. Read the voltmeter. The reading should be 0.3 or less. A higher reading means excess resistance in the starting circuit.. Check the ground circuit by connecting your voltmeter between the POS terminal of the battery and the case of the starter. The meter should read 0.1 or lower when cranking the engine. Check the rotor for rotational play. A worn rotor can change the timing enough to prevent the starter from turning the engine smoothly. Check for hydraulic lock caused by gasoline leaking from the carburetor into the cylinders or coolant leaking into the cylinders. Remove the spark plugs and look for wet plugs. Remove the starter and have it checked for worn bushings, wrong field coils, worn brushes or dead spots. Your starter turned over the engine when new, if it is not doing it now, something needs to be fixed. You should never have to jump the car, unless the battery is run down.

Looks very good. Try a local PPG dealer for your paint. The metallic particles in the new paints are larger than when your car was built, so the color will be a little lighter. Have them mix up a small amount and spray a panel with it. Then adjust the formula to bring it closer to the original.

Hi John, I'm sorry to hear that you broke the drill. That is why I recommended welding a bolt or nut onto the broken stud. The welding process heats the stud enough to break the rust bond and the impact wrench will usually finish the job. The Ford manifolds sell for under $20 for a used one, but the Zephyr ones seem to go for a higher price than the $50 that you are being charged for removing the remains.

John, I believe that I do have one with a broken bolt. I will check my garage this afternoon.