19tom40

I am glad that it worked out for you. I find Mac's catalog useful to find if parts are available, but seldom order from them, because of their shipping policy. I usually order from local suppliers like Rock Valley in IL, The Ford Barn In WI and Yesteryear Ford parts in MI. These are all small outfits that give great service and the prices are competitive with Mac's.

I agree with Tom Overfield's advice and would add that you should build a carrier to support the crankshaft by the main bearing throws and never stand it on end leaning against a wall. The crankshaft is easy to bend and difficult to straighten is the reason behind supporting it by the main bearing throws.

Post deleted as it was incorrect.

Ken, is this the Ford part you are talking about http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/rear-engine-transmission-support-ford-passenger-373020.html

John, you can try the following site for information and products. https://www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/mold-max-25-create-2-silicone-mold/ You could try repairing or recasting your part with Devcon Flexane 94. http://www.devcon.com/UserFiles/File/Urethanes_User_Guide.pdf I used the Flexane putty to repair the running boards on my 40 Mercury and it held up very well for 30 years, until I had them recovered by Hunley Aucuff.

Beltfed, here is a link to an add for the same model that I have. http://www.2040-parts.com/snap-on-coil-tester-vintage-nice-1950-chevy-ford-buick-rat-rod-i8902/

The resistance seems low, but the true test of a coil is its output when hot. The best test is at idle when the engine is at operating temperature. The spark from a plug wire should jump about 1/2" when held near a good ground, like a head nut. The spark should be blue in color and make a sharp snapping sound. My coil tester is a SnapOm model that allows for heating the coil. The tester is basically a vibrator, to act as ignition points, and capacitor with a calibrated output that is adjustable to show spark intensity. If your coils have not been rebuilt, you should do it before you put the car on the road. All of the original type coils will fail when they are used in a car. The question is when and the answer is usually when you are the farthest from home on a hot day. Jake Fleming uses a different method from Skip Haney, of making the coils reliable. I have used his coils since the mid 1990's with the only failure occurring when I left the ignition switch on without running the car.

I strongly advise you to have the points timed on a distributor machine, by someone that has lots of experience with the Zephyr distributor. That way not only the initial timing can be set, but the advance mechanism can be checked out. Bad advance curves can lead to overheating, just like incorrect initial timing. TDC can be found using a vacuum gauge, but I have reservations about using a timing light to set the break time of the points. You have to remove the distributor for each adjustment of the points, put it back on the car and recheck the setting. The other problem is to accurately mark the pulley with degree marks so you can set the timing to 4 degrees BTDC. The Ford Shop notes give a way of using a vacuum gauge to check the action of the mechanical advance and vacuum brake.

I just use the SWAG (scientific wild a** guess) procedure

You are welcome. Make sure that you linkage is not worn and that it has no binds. The vacuum wipers do not have the torque to overcome binds in the linkage.

If your wiper motor hasn't been used in a long time, just lubricating it and the linkage may make it work again. First I would just remove the arms and blades and try the motor. If it works, let it run for a while to loosen up things. If it doesn't work, remove the motor and add a few drops of light oil into the vacuum port and operate the motor by hand several times to distribute the oil. Then connect it to a vacuum source and see if it will operate. If it does, re-install the motor, lubricate the linkage and drive around for a few days with the arms stored in the glove box. If it does not operate, then send it to: Kent Jaquith, 2633 SW Obsidian # 15, Redmond, Oregon (541) 923-4319 Clean-Sweep Windshield Wiper Motor Service, Sales and Rebuilding Another option is to remove the top cover, clean the crud and hard grease out and lube the paddle and cavity with Vaseline or another non-hardening grease. I remove the wiper arms on my cars every spring and drive with the wipers on, to keep the lubricant spread out in the motor. Then if I get caught in the rain, I just install the arms and the wipers work. I also lube the linkage every spring, but it is easier on my cars than on the Zephyr.

I would look into how Ford solved the problem on the 39 Zephyr. You may be able to find enough used 39 parts to get yours done.

The P/N of the 53 damper assy is EAA-6316 the pulley diameter is 5.4" and the damper diameter is 6.25". I don't have any info on what may be stamped on the damper for identification.

Phillip, if the trans is like the US trans, there is just a metal plate that directs the trans oil back into the trans. There is no replaceable seal.

You did not give the year of the car that you are working on, but Narragansett has sets for most year Lincolns. http://www.narragansettreproductions.com/wiring-harness.html

Jack up one front wheel and try to move the wheel in the direction of turns. There should be 1/64" or less movement. If there is more, look to see where it is and replace any worn parts. Next grab the top and bottom of the wheel and repeat the test. Again there should be very little movement. Next, remove the rear hubs and inspect the bottom of the axle housings for wear. If you can see any pitting or wear, you should have sleeves installed on the housings. If all of those are good, look unto replacing the springs. Slipped belts on a radial can also cause handling problems.

The lubricant in your wiper motor has probably dried out and there is probably wear on the paddle. Your motor can be rebuilt to give you good wipers again. Until then, it will continue to act like a economy reminder, drive like you have an egg tied to the top of the accelerator pedal.

Dave will be missed by all Ford and Zephyr owners. His research and articles about Ford vehicles was a great source of education about the cars. RIP Dave.

41lbs of pressure may be too much for your car. I would start with all tires at 35 lbs and then start dropping the pressure about back to the factory specs 1 or 2 lbs at a time. Also check the date code on the tires, they get harder as they get older. Just because they are new to you, doesn't mean that they are newly manufactured. If this doesn't work and the tires are less than 4 years old, have them siped to improve traction. With the weight distribution of your car, you should experience under-steer and it should track straight down the road.

Are your shocks working? Disconnect the arms and move them throughout the range of movement. The resistance should be the same in each direction and require quite a bit of force to move the arm. What tire pressure are you using in your tires?

Yes John, you can borrow the tool. I will be home most of the week, just give me a call before you leave for my house. I believe that the crank pulley retaining nut can be removed with a 1 1/8" deep socket. I have a thin wall socket that I use to remove it. Then the pulley should just slide off of the crankshaft.

John, it looks like the U-Joint cover is on upside down. I believe that the grease fitting should be on the bottom. When you clean the trans, you may find some of the remnants of the green paint. Years of being oil soaked has made most of it flake off.

The main cause of oversteer is that the back tires are losing traction. You can reduce the tire pressure in the rear tires a couple of pounds less than the front.

John, my offer of help that I gave you last year still stands. Just give me a call.

You should be able to adjust the clutch so that you have 3/4" free play at the pedal. The adjustment would be a turnbuckle connected between the clutch pedal and the release arm. Fort Wayne Clutch is the best supplier of clutches for old cars. I would remove the old clutch and pressure plate and have them rebuild both. You should clean the flywheel with a scotch brite pad and look for heat checking. If there is no heat checking or deep scores, you do not need the flywheel resurfaced. If you do need it resurfaced, wait until you get the clutch back and then have the machine shop resurface and balance the flywheel with the pressure plate. When you assemble the clutch, make sure that you relieve the pressure on the clutch while you are tightening it. This will prevent warping the pressure plate that causes chatter.