larry butcher

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  1. What year of car and what model? Zephyr or Continental?
  2. Gerry, I have always found this little light gage sheet metal thing under the filter itself. Perhaps to keep the sludge off of the the bottom of the filter . I always replaced it back on the pipe and placed the filter element on top of it . Cleaned the cover, added a little grease on the rubber seal and tighten the lid hand tight. Fired it up , wait to get warm and check for any leaks. Larry
  3. This looks to be a "stand off". I have seen this on my '38 LZ (46 V12) and on my '48 LC. It slides down on the center pipe The canister will take at least 2 sizes of filters. I use NAPA ,P/N 1006 , made by WIX. Each fliter has come with 2 lid seals. The larger is perhaps for a later flat head ( 8BA V8. ? )
  4. Thanks "1941" I think your post hellped to sell the leather. A gentleman about 10 miles from my home bought it. It is SOLD!
  5. FOR SALE: Leather hides left over from restoration( Keleen Leather Inc. ) 1- full hide, approx. 56 sq.ft, partial hide 14 sq. ft,, 2 dr .panels( ' LZ38-'39 LZ coupe or conv). tan/ brown in color, all new ,never used. Send SASE envelope. for sm. "swatch" $250 plus shipping. Larry Butcher 224 Clubside Dr. Taneytown MD. 21787. 1-410-756-5310 or "E"
  6. I think I went through this one time on my '38 Conv. Coupe. Pulled into a show and closed the driver door and "BAM" , the spring broke. The door would not close and stay closed. Removed the lock mech. and purchased the spring from one of the venders( Mac's, Carpenter. ) I think they are color codeed. Yes, you will have to grind off rivets. Good Luck
  7. Try checking with our venders listed on this website. If no luck, "E" mail me - and I'll check with my neighbor who has a omplete machine shop in his basement. I have the part off of my skirts ,but no spares. My neighbor makes parts for me all the time---Larry
  8. I know this is going to sound like "overkill", but if this car has sat for 17 years ; change the oil and oil filter "AGAIN"! You may be surprised what comes out. Small price to save the bearings and perhaps the oil pump
  9. Thats a neat tool and a good brand. If no reply here try THE FORD BARN( That site caters to all flathead -FM and some HV12. Someone could possibly "E" to you instruction sheets- Good luck--- Larry
  10. I know I'am late on this reply, BUT ! I have learned from past experiece on an old flat head FML engines that have sat for a number of years; DO NOT TRY TO START THAT ENGINE without 1st dropping the pan and cleaning out the "mud" from the pan, cleaning the screen on the oil pump pickup and even replacing the brass oil float ( V12's). I helped to ruin a 1940 LZ years back. I drained the oil---- it was TAR! I know it is a lot of extra work to drop that pan , but you could save the bottom end of that engine----- Larry
  11. Sorry , brake drums have been sold weeks ago---- Larry
  12. For Sale: 4 good used '36-'38 LZ brake drums. Have been turned, plenty of metal left. No seals or bearings, they weigh about 20# each. $25 ea. plus S/H. Larry Butcher, 1-410-756-5310,
  13. Good used '38 LZ brake cables- 1-86H -2853, Hand brake cable w/ conduit. 2- frt. brake cables-86H-2494 (591/8" long),no rust, no broken strands $35 ea. or all 3 for $100+$20 S&H. Larry Butcher 224 Clubside Dr.Taneytown ,MD 21787. 1-410-756-5310
  14. Sean, Some things to consider. Everyone who reads this forum and has "played with" old cars has been through this. . How far from where the car is now and where it will be driven? Have you test run the car on the road yet---- brakes work? Are the tires in good shape and hold air? Does it overheat.? Can you stay off of high speed dual lane highways? Some one has to follow you .If most of the questions above have negative answers-----think about trailering it. It may save alot of heart ache .Good Luck