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larry butcher

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  1. One small note--- If you plan on keeping this car and perhaps other Lincoln , Mercs and Fords; invest in a good set of "flare " wrenches; that is if you have not already. With all of the different nuts on different lines these wrenches do a good job. --- Larry
  2. Gerry, I checked the parts book and I guess you are asking about the front and rear grease retainers? These are Ford part #s- the frt. is 48- 1190 A, 2.68" O.D. and the rear are 78-1175 , 2.84" O.D. Your favorite Old Ford parts supplier should have these. JUst request they be shipped by UPS or any other than USPO. They are still way behind in PACKAGE delivery. As for removing them , I used a long screw driver or pry bar. There is a special tool with a "heel". Since the old seals are junk, you could drill a small hole and use a body and fender dent puller. As for installing the new ones, I have used a large socket and carefully tapped them in or a hard wood block. What ever, be careful and don't damage the drum!---Good luck and take your time!---Larry
  3. Here are 2 shops that may be able to help you. Just go on the internet, they will pop up. Al Pruitt & Sons Glen Rock ,Pa. and Schwalms Babbitted Bearings Strasburg PA. Good Luck, Keep the REAL Classics on the Road! Larry
  4. a couple things I have found out while rebuilding brakes on old Lincolns. I never cared for "glued on shoes" on my cars, I like rivets. Check the thickness of your shoe material, there are specs on this . I would have that one short shoe redone. I always have my shoes "cam ground" to match each drum- that is--- 100% shoe contact to that drum. Go back again and check ( Motors Repair Manual) major and minor adjustments. I hope this helps---Larry
  5. I have been through this several times, with my '42 LC Cab. , '38 LZ Conv .Coupe and now my '48 LC Coupe. All are a real" bear "! Remove the top air deflection shroud. This can be installed last. Break loose the lower bolts holding the rad,These can be tightened later. The upper rad hoses can be moved back and forth , sliding on the upper tank outlets. Make sure the fan plate lines up with dowels on the fan adapter plate. The bolts are hard to install. I had to grind down a the socket to fit. The rad can be rocked a little . On the '42 there were 2 straps that were soldered to the upper tank to help hold steady. There is not much room between the fan and the rad. I hope this helps a little
  6. Gerry, I understand what you are saying, good luck anLarryd let us know how it works out--- Larry
  7. Gerry, First, Sorry if this post is "jumbled " after I I post it , something I 'am doing wrong. So my reference is the big parts book , on pg. 11 and Macs Ford parts catalog. The parts I'am going to mention are OUTSIDE of the main body of the Master cylinder . The 1st part right at the rear of the master cyn. is - 91A- 2152 ( gasket, copper, .51 ID /.81OD. The next part is fitting- 96H-2076- ( NOTE- this is a Lincoln part # ,'39-'48. The next part is 91A-2151, ( copper gasket, .61ID/.81 . OD, the next part is the special bolt ( 91A-2077). The last part is 11A-13480 or 01A-13480- stoplight switch. I hope this helps.- Larry
  8. These "gaskets" are really copper washers, P/N is 91A---'39 Ford. 2 different sizes. Do not reuse! Ford vendors have these and perhaps our vendors on this website
  9. one more small item that may help-- on pg. 180 of the same parts catalog that we all use, there is a small bracket - P/N 51A-11140. This is Ford # and is used on Ford flatheads as well as our HV12's. It helps keep the starter in correct alignment with the flat surface of the pan. One more thing that may not be a problem on your engine, it was on my '48 LC. After purchasing the car and going over it , under it and all around I noticed the "snout" where the Bendix drive travels to was cut off and the end of the gear was exposed to the elements. The engine may be '42, because the bore is 2-15/16" . So , perhaps the later ' 5EH ' was used. The fix for this was to cut off the bottom of a empty and cleaned out propane bottle, cut to length as needed ; and soldered it on the remaining length of the "snout" , it fit perfectly ! The OD of the pan snout slid right into the ID of propane bottle.
  10. Gerry, Just changed the oil and filter of my '48 LC Coupe. I added 4 qts. of oil and started up to let it warm up again. I got it good and warm before draining old oil. Topped off oil after shutting down. The new filter will take almost a qt. Is your float in good shape and does not leak? Does your pan have a correct "cage" for the float to travel in? Last, was the float rod ever altered? That is , correct length?--- Larry
  11. What's this worth?? Good question! From past experience, it all depends if the block is cracked. Years ago I opened up a '46 V12 that had sat out side next to a used car lot office. It turned out it was good and I did a complete rebuild and is still running today. If it is cracked between the valves junk it and save all of the parts. If cracked on outside water jackets, it could possibly be repaired. Perhaps $600---$800 PLUS SHIPPING! Best to pick up No short cuts on rebuilding, The whole thing , from bare block out!--- Larry
  12. It sounds like it is time to go over your whole fuel system from what you have mentioned. Start at the tank-- remove drain ,place a large pan be careful!. break loose fuel line , remove bolts , break loose fuel fill neck, open access plate in trunk floor and disconnect and insulate wire going up toward dash, Inspect tank for dirt and rust. Inspect gas line going up toward engine. A rust hole in gas line will sometimes draw air and still allow engine to run. The correct fuel pump for a'41 is a metal dome bowl ( P/N 16 H-9350), but glass bowl pump will work. The pump is operated by a push a push rod off of the cam shaft. ,these rods wear. If nothing has been done to the fuel pump for years- have it rebuilt. as far as an electric fuel pump, these cars never left the factory with an electric pump, but it is good idea to install an electric pump as a back up ( vapor lock, poor gas, boost to help start after sitting long period of time)Wire in as a bypass. One other thing not to overlook is the gasket between the glass bowl and metal body of your fuel pump-- this has to be a PERFECT SEAL!!!! No one ever said these old cars are easy or cheap! Good Luck P,S- the windshield wipers are another problem!
  13. I remember when I restored my '38 LZ Conv. , I used the Ford mirrors with the curved arm. I think the part# started with a 68- This is a ". bear of a job" , since your car is now painted. It will still cost you some money. "Eastwood" sells a nice hinge pin remover. You must take your time!!!! Use cardboard and painter's tape all around the hinge area. Of course the best way is to heat the hinge , but can't do that now! As "19tom40" mentioned above, predrill the bottom of the exiting pin the exact diameter about 1/4" to 3/8" from the bottom. Good Luck!
  14. try C&G Early Ford Parts-- www.cgfordparts.com I have their 2011 cat. on page 23 7 ,under '40-'56 PU heater defrost. --3-1/2" or 4-00" BUT in only 3 ft. lengths! I'll need it for my '48 also
  15. Your Header says you have a 1948 Lincoln Continental , I too have a '48 Continental ; a Coupe. The Continentals 1941 - 1948 and maybe the 1940 had a poor ground for the stoplight and the license plate light. The stoplight and the license housing ( cast aluminum) is hinged so it can be folded down to remove the spare tire. There is the problem!This is where the ground is picked up for the brake and license lamps The ground is lost somewhere around the hinge pin. Run a test ground wire from the lamp housing back to the car frame somewhere. Make good CLEAN connections. This may identify your problem.
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