19tom40

Good question, I have never tried it, I have an extra gauge that I use for testing. I will try using a voltmeter to see if the average voltage changes when the engine temperature changes and let you know.

John, before you try to remove the sending unit from the radiator, you should see if you can get another. You don't want a hole that you can't fill. The test that hcris gave you will work if the sending unit is not the King-Seely type used in the Fords. If it is the Ford type, you will read a continuous short if the unit is good, no matter the coolant temperature. The Ford type uses a bi-metal strip with contacts for current flow. As the coolant gets warmer the contacts are open longer and less current flows in the dash unit - sending unit circuit and the bi-metal strip in the dash unit moves the needle towards hot. The Zephyr unit may be the same type, but uses more current to move the needle towards hot. Put some penetrating oil on the sending unit in the radiator every day for a couple of weeks and then try to remove it. If it doesn't move, take the radiator out and take it to Lake Zurich Radiator and have Jim hot tank it and remove the sending unit. The unit is probably brass and the radiator tank is also brass, so it should come out without damaging the tank. I don't know the size or how your gauge mounts, but I have a good 1940 gauge with a bad face and maybe you could exchange the face from your gauge and use the sending unit in the head. If you want to consider this option, send me photos of the back of the gauge and the face. Also send me some measurement of the mounting stud separation and the diameter of the body. The measurements just need to be approximate to see if this is possible.

That is why it is always a good idea to take photos before you disassemble anything, load them into your computer and add comments to describe the location and use of the parts. Then you can look back and make sure that everything is installed and the left over parts were put there by your buddies to confuse you.

The correct lining material can be purchased from: Brake Materials & Parts, Inc. Fort Wayne, IN (260) 426-3331 Scott He also arc grinds the shoes, but the shipping from the UK for the shoes is expensive. He may have some replacement shoes for your car. Measure your drums, they should not be cut more than .060" oversize. If they are larger than that, you will have to have thicker linings arc ground for your drums.

I doubt that you will find any reference to the mud pans in the Body Catalog, they are usually shown with the Chassis.

Sounds like you have your electrical system all sorted out. I just changed my 1158 tail light bulbs for LED bulbs and they are quite a bit brighter.

John, That looks like the engine mud pan. I don't have a drawing of them, but one goes on each side of the motor, attached to the frame

John, I have the May 1946 Chassis Parts Catalog that covers the 1936-1942 Lincoln Zephyr and it calls for 3/8"-16 x 3/4" bolts with lock washers and nuts to ho;d the steering housing to the frame for the 36 and 37. It also calls out 3 - 3/8-16 x 1-19/32 bolts to hold the steering gear case to the frame for the 36, 37, and 38 Zephyrs. My guess is that there were 2 styles of housings, with one having thicker mounting bosses than the other, as I cannot find a listing for a case and yours would take the longer 1 1/8" bolt. The part that you showed in a photo is a frame reinforcement for a steering box. My catalog shows that the part is only used on the 1936 cars. It was used on serial numbers between 01-15500. I could not find a frame or steering bolt as long as the one shown. The parts catalog does not show all of the parts used in production, only the ones available for replacement.

John, the horn button grounds one side of the relay circuit to complete the circuit to pick the horn relay. You the black wire comes from the horn button and has a connector at the bottom of the steering column. You can disconnect that connector and jumper the wire to the relay to ground. The relay should pick and the horns should sound. If they do sound, you will have to replace the wire in the steering column. If the relay picks and the horns sound like a sick cow, you will have to clean the horn relay contacts. The original type horn relay cover comes off pretty easy, by slipping a thin blade on each side of the relay. Clean the contacts with a contact cleaner and a piece of paper. I don't like the use an abrasive on the points as that can ruin the contacts. If the relay does not pick, check for voltage at the wire coming from the relay. Voltage at the wire will let you know that the wire is good and the problem is in the relay. I have a good original style relay if you need one.

John, you are a big man and should have good support for the seat belts. The recommendations that I have seen call for at least 6 square inches of 11 gauge steel. You can make your own or buy them. The advantage of buying ready made ones is that the nut is welded on the plate for easier installation. The advantage of buying a piece of steel and making your own is that you can use the washers that come with the belt and have a stronger support. Here is a site that sells the belts and reinforcing plates. http://www.andoauto.com/AR6.htm You can give these guys a call and ask their opinion.

Steve, there is a club devoted to these cars. It is called the Lincoln Owners Club. Other than admiring the cars styling, I don't much else about them. Here is a link to the Club website, where you can find contact information. http://www.lincolnownersclub.com/

Ray, I was talking about my hearing problem and cell phone speakers. The electronics in my cell phone and the speaker are not a very good quality. It is an older smart phone and not anywhere as good as my old "dumb phone", but it was a gift and I have to use it for a while until I can say that it wore out. My car radios are fine. The speaker and tone in my Lincoln radio sound very good to an old guy with hearing in only one ear. I had my Mercury radio serviced a couple of years ago and it sound very good with music from my MP3 player. Thanks for the offer of help, I appreciate your willingness to find a good speaker for me.

Glad that your car seems to be sorted out. Ray did a great job of explaining how to hook up the radio and filter capacitor. It was nice to find an easy fix for the noise. It is hard for me to distinguish noises over a cell phone. The new one that I have has a lousy speaker and that makes it harder yet.

John, Your diagram is correct . I listened to the noise and I would not drive the car. It sounded like the clip that holds a guide in place is not in the correct position. Continued running of the engine could cause the valve head to break off.

Ask your question on the Early Ford V-8 Forum. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/

I am not familiar with the 33 dash, but the V-8 Album, published by the Early Ford V-8 Club, mentions that interesting accessories were introduced for 1934. They were a dual fuel and heat indicator and a dual ammeter and oil pressure gauge. I would ask your question on the Early Ford V-8 Club Forum, where there are people that know the cars better than here. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/

The car looks good.

If you see large or small bubbles when you perform the test that I described, you have a blown head gasket. When you pull the head, make sure that you check for cracks around the valves and along the edges of the cylinders.

With the hose off and coolant level to the top of the head outlet, run the engine and look for bubbles. You may have a blown head gasket.

Nice music and I like the way your shift lever moved with no hands showing.

At $1,000 asking price, you would get a lot of interest, at $50,000 asking price you will get a lot of lookers, but little interest in purchasing. If you are interested in selling the car, you should post photos and an asking price. Without those items,most potential buyers will just skip the ad and continue looking. It takes a lot of work to sell a collector car for a fair price.

Thanks guys. The photo was taken at the 2012 LCOC National meet in Rockford.

Today is the firs day of Spring and in the Chicago area, we are having some of the coldest days of March this week. I wish that my garage was 3 ft longer so I could work on the back of my Lincoln with the garage door closed and the heater on.

Did you check that the horseshoe clips that holds the valve guide in place is in the correct slot on the guide? The difference between .010 and .012 should not make a difference in the sound of the engine. If the clip is not holding a valve guide in place, the guide will travel up allowing the head of the valve to hit the head as well as increasing the clearance between the valve and the tappet. The "back pressure" could be caused by the intake valve not seating. This could be due to incorrect tappet clearance, loose guide, sticky valve, burnt valve or bent valve. On a fresh engine, I like to set the valve clearance to the larger clearance to accommodate the break in seating of the valve. It usually won't be as much as .001", but It makes me feel better about valve seating and I can't hear any difference in tappet sound.

John, the wire from the ignition switch goes to the terminal with the buss bar on it. The only other wires that should be on it are the radio wires and the heater wires. I would connect the ignition switch to one side of the buss bar and the radio and/or the heater to the other side.