John_Mereness

I did not ask if a club member. I would guess it has lacquer on it and ... - Florida outside is a tough climate. My guess is car would clean up to be usable for a good long while. They sent interior photos and it has some marginal spots, but overall not too bad. Other than ignition switch it appears to be a complete car too. And, it was set out by a fellow who got it running and driveable (which they say it is).

On a RR PI it turns on the parking lamps and when you leave it on it drains the battery too.

I have Brillman www.brillman.com do my cable ends and they are 100 point every time. I tried myself and have a nice pricey tool too, but have not been particularly pleased with results for something other than a driver quality car.

My engine rebuilder uses: http://ronsmachineshop.com/

There was a decent 1930 145 Sedan that showed up on the club website last week - www.franklincar.org. I exchanged some notes with the owner. They found the missing parts for the car - sidemount hubcaps, spare tire mirrors, and a few other things (and they are in very good condition). The car was a super nice original with partial older restoration and unfortunately has been put outside for the past 4 months (and it needs rescued real quick given Florida climate). Unfortunately, they want too much money for the car and I am afraid if reality does not set in a perfectly good car will get ruined. Take a go at it as it would make a really great car.

When built it was the Lincoln dealer for sure (and may have been Mercury too). A friend talked about going there with their father to have their Zephyr's repaired -Charles Koch (the friend) whose father was a brewmaster had moved to Cincinnati from St Louis in the depression to brew in Cincinnati, Jim Koch of Samuel Adams/ Boston Beer would be the son and grandson. The building is a structural architectural - interiors firm and I understand the building is 100% reworked with no historic interior features remaining. The building sat on the hillside of Mount Adams/downtown for years untouched prior to the renovation.

It was probably Glyptal if he was into racing or really high quality builds.

This is doing it a little different - a DESMO Scottie By the way, that Packard Boattail parked to the left is AACA Editor West Peterson.

Surprised someone has not bolted the trunk to the rack - that is a big heavy trunk if all that is holding it on is the two leather straps.

That is actually a deal. They were changing hands in the club for more than that (at times up over 200) - the disadvantage though is that people outside the club never know such as they never see such publicly. Parts availability is not good - that may be an issue. They are huge cars and they are also impressive on the road.

West, did they have them slid over the irons near key pivot points so that the irons did not sag from front to rear on side of car ? If so, I assume the open side would have gone toward inside of car so as to not damage sides of the top canvas.

This was some sort of tube issue. - I am now running a Toyo with whitewall applied from Diamondback (so far so good). By the way, the tread totally delaminated off the sidewalls and was perfectly intact. Tube was well on its way to an issue of fire - big melted mess.

Tubes in radials are an acceptable practice and they make radial tubes. That being said though, a certain brand of radial tire I thought had too aggressive of a construction pattern in the interior and I was having tube issues as a result (or at least that appeared to be the issue - but unsafe any way about it if having problems with anything). Thus, if you can run tubeless via a tire designed to run tubeless (you have to calk around any rivets of spokes (I calked and then calked a gutter strip in too), you can eliminate any tube issue. For those installing tubes, I would always use a heavy duty tube (some clearly marked for radial use), run your hand over surfaces and make sure no sharp pints on rim or ..., use a gutter strip (or perhaps a flap if appropriate), talc the wheel/tube/casing to allow tube to not stick to anything, make sure there are no stickers or anything sticky, and use care installing.

There is surprisingly a large amount of gas in a manifold of certain cars while the car is running and when you shut the car off it would otherwise fall to the lower points and backfire upon restart - thus the reason many cars that have manifold drains and resulting gas puddles. Interestingly, unspent fuel in the exhaust will re-ignite (backfire) when it hits air from say an exhaust gasket leak.

You have some really great advice here from PFitz and edinmass. One thing many people did not talk about was the why? Why was a electric pump needed in the first place. I have had cars where the manufacturer came pretty close to literally wrapping the fuel line around the exhaust pipe - and that will not work today. There was a mentality (and need pre moden gasoline) regarding preheating fuel and that just does not apply with modern gasoline. So, I have been wrapping tailpipes, making new fuel lines and putting them in wire loom sleeves, putting a heat insulating sleeves on lines under the hood, certain cars like the 1931 Cadillac would today block off the exhaust preheater from the intake manifold, perhaps would try jet-hot coat on on heat exhangers, thicker gaskets on manifolds, and just rebuilding things with a lot of care. Ex. The 1932 RR PI had a fuel line that came off the vacuum tank, snaked back behind the down-pipe of the exhaust manifold/header, crossed half the crankcase (including being bolted to crankcase every 5 inches), and ... - I made a line that dropped off the vacuum tank and crossed down the frame rail (all much more out of the way of heat) and then I put line in a faux asbestos wrap.

Cool !

By the way, I drove on a set of Martins that were ancient (on a 1941 Packard Darrin) and then we decided to upgrade - when we pulled the tires off a portion of the bead had delaminated from the sidewall and on all 4 tires - your own version of a hula-hoop. Let's just say everyone was very fortunate.

It just depends is the answer. I have run cars on 40 year old plus tires and on other cars I order sets the day I buy the car. On a 1941 Buick though I would be running radials (as long as the radial is designed to be run tubeless) . I ran my 1941 Cadillac 60 Special with set after set of bias ply and never gave it a thought, but now the radial options are so much more prevalent.

Jim is really great. Glad you now have the part back with the car !

It will take some tracking as it is no longer there in Auburn. IN. The contents of the building were sold maybe three or so years ago and were showing up on eBay for a while and maybe still are.

New York Importers Show 1915 Hotel Astor: Rolls-Royce

New York 1917 Hotel Astor Salon Rolls-Royce