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John_Mereness

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Everything posted by John_Mereness

  1. Often pumped there from the filling station (had an oil company as a client and you learn a lot - also people do on rare occasion spontaneously combust at the filling stations via such as smoking or static charge)
  2. I would think that is the original - it is more the pattern you would have on a leather top of a 30's Cadillac. My 1931 Cadillacs did not have cording in the aluminum welt - the aluminum welt had an aluminum flap that nailed down over the nails. As to the grained vinyl used for Fords (and hate to say it, but it is a good alternative as it is quite durable and made for this exact purpose) - I have seen some recently with more a fur backing than a woven backing and I would lean toward the woven backing. My guess is you may be able to find some material used via 1960's to 1990's vinyl tops. Perhaps try SMS - https://smsautofabrics.com/pages/vinyl-tops
  3. I do not know about Canada, though in the United States it was not that the "scrap drive" was going to "take" your car, but that there was a lot of pressure to participate in the war effort matched to it being very patriotic to donate your car and ... to the drives (aka and the life you save may be your own). I do know that it was illegal at some point to drive a car on the road with 6 wheels on a car via your only being allowed to have one spare tire (ie the sidemount spare would be confiscated) - and you often see 6 wheel cars with one crusty wheel and it is because of this. And plenty of cars obviously survived in every country on the globe.
  4. Lot's of begging. I always try to get things done early that depend on other people, but it is a large orchestration process and lots of people helping really are hobbyists, lot of the businesses are not of the same business model that you see in say CPG, and the really good chrome platers, upholsters, and ... have more work than they can do too.
  5. Actually, as the storm crossed the United States - while our damage in Cincinnati was not sever, it was pretty exciting to have a couple inches of rain in minutes, upper atmospheric weather patterns that set off all the tornado sirens for a good hour, and literally non-stop emergency vehicle sirens for the next several hours - several roads are still closed, minor landslides but sever for our area, minor flooding but severe for our area, and ...
  6. Interesting auction, amused that many things are grouped by "like" category and almost by color.
  7. Generally in every larger state there is a distributor in some form or another for Haartz/Stayfast, though Marty Roth is correct that you can call directly and they are a pleasure to work with.
  8. By the way, there are some really nice reproduction tanks out there for certain cars - I always admire them in shops where I have work done/help me and unfortunately I tend to not be lucky enough to ever have a project that has these types of reproduction parts available.
  9. I have been fond of Renu, though usually only have them do the inside and at times the outside top of the tank (I finish the bottom and/or top of the tank in paint). I generally have to call and ask who they want me to send the tank to achieve this result (ie you have to actually talk with people if you want different from the norm custom work done). On a high point car, I recently had the tank dipped at a radiator shop, then dipped again at a galvanizer, hot dipped galvanized, and then sent to Renu to have the interior coated.
  10. I would agree with Ed. My impression was Peerless built a very nice car, but post-WWI they were not offering the same level of opulence via the other two of the 3"P's as they were pre-WWI. Obviously, they did have a few products that really "shined" via a couple models in the 20's, and especially the 1930-1931 Peerless Custom Eight, plus the Peerless V-16 Prototype is something too.
  11. I just replied another post on AACA with someone asking what color to paint wheels and the rule of thumb I was always taught (for driver cars) was to paint wheels Red, Maroon, Brown, or Orange - basically the color of rust. Brown and the Orange sort of ell out of favor though - the Brown being quite conservative and Orange being 1970'ish. I saw stainless spoke wheels back in the fall on a 1931 Buick 90 Roadster leaving a Concours event - the rims/hubs where Black and so were the brake drums and I have to say it was pretty stunning seeing them "in action" on the road and bet even more impressive at night under street lights.
  12. Try chrome wire wheels with double whitewalls matched to sidemounts with covers were you see the inside of the whitewall and a hair of the front side through the edge of cover - BEEN THERE DONE THAT AND NOT FUN (Ed has one going too with such)
  13. Given that they did not have o'rings in 1915 (at least of today's design) - how were they sealing this to being wit. A lot of early cars have reverse threaded splines that "feed" oil back in and then drains for such via excess. Also, are you braking at the axle are are you braking at the drive shaft - if the axle is just an emergency brake they may not have cared too much when new.
  14. worthy project all be it you may have to do some machine work on axle or be creative with a seal. I will say that anything we have had pre-WWII we are particularly careful to keep the car level.
  15. Not to say it is right or wrong for an Overland, but may be a homework project. The last time I used 600 weight model T (in a Stoddard Dayton) fluid, we had to stop the car every time we needed to shift and then restart - let's just say it was not in the car long. There was a drops per minute formula in the owner's manual and I sent that to Mobil and an engineer sent me a case of something or another that matched the formula and it was "dreamy." As a sidenote, it was the unused quarts of 600 from when I tried to run such in the Franklin and had the same issue (my feeling being a T and a Stoddard Dayton were same nature of the beast - apparently not).
  16. I am too use to seeing things all apart in a garage with good intentions and life and ... getting in the road - I can literally take you to a good 100 garages around here. One of those restorers that was way ahead of his time, Ned Herman of Vintage Garage, in Cincinnati, OH (mainly a RR and Bentley shop, though plenty of other things went through the doors) use to when at all possible restore the car as he took it apart - it was an interesting approach and I have never been that fortunate to have a project like such. One of his former lead mechanical fellows is the one who helps me with most of my projects, one of his former machinists helps me with "how do we fix that" problems, and his former painter helps me too.
  17. My opinion is a lot of restored cars are not really that restored or at least restored the way you want them to be, so they get re-restoration. Also, there are a lot of gorgeous things out there that are painted colors that tend to scream "that was restored in the 1970's, 80's 90's and so on." One of the reasons too is a new owner may want to take a car and do the major Conours and most have rules about re-showing cars for X periods. Also, upon sale the higher the value the general rule is the less someone wants to do on the car - ie do not give people a reason to not pay full price. And, sometimes you want to put your mark on something (ask my Airedale - we now own every tree and post in the neighborhood) or just need a good project to keep us busy. By the way, what is funny is when people are out trying to find an X and do not realize it is right under their nose as it has been re-restored with a color change and ..
  18. I do not recall offhand, but a 1929 Franklin Series 130 (still rare though as it is a one year one series part) may share some or all of the instruments you may need for your Stutz.
  19. Beautiful car - needs sidemount covers though
  20. I was always told by all the old timers who toured to paint wheels darker colors and/or paint them the color of "rust" or close to "rust" (ie Reds and Maroons) - I believe they were referring more to maintenance though than attractiveness. In the 1970's you saw a lot of brown wheels and orange wheels - solved the rust around the spoke problems though also made cars very 1970's looking and does little to help their value today.
  21. Also, do not worry about the alignment of the hood molding to cowl (aka my guess is that it is close enough), as when you latch the hood for a while the welting will take a set.
  22. May I suggest you paint the cover on the voltage regulator on top of the generator - black. Also, 1931 Cadillac's have the roll up windshields and the rubber to seal such is generally available via Steele Rubber - all be it looks like you found a good solution.
  23. My radiator guy uses this product (and has used it for at least 30 years I know of) http://damonq.com/TechSheets/CoreSure.pdf That being said though, a really good radiator guy should be able to solder the honneycomb where there is a leak and stop such. Sidenote: There does reach a time where you just have no choice other than to re-core - and if you fry your engine then you have a whole lot more other problems (ex. I can take you to garage after garage of laid up 20's and 30's cars that overheated and eventually ended up with head and block damage from adding water into hot engines while out on tours and ...
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