John_Mereness

BTT

There are really no parts for a 3000 healey that are unobtainium and parts are fairly reasonably priced as well. If you are doing a car like an jaguar e-type concours restoration there are a few date coded parts that may prove hard to find and unfortunately some of the reproduction parts tend to be more “make do” to keep it on the road than concours quality. Sidenote: There is a magic formula for the 100k cars - most were pretty exceptional examples to begin with albeit some just are 100% every part done.

There is a secret to driving a 3000 when you are tall - I bought a car that had pedal extenders on it and noticed them right away to want to take them off as thought they would be problematic, though the first long trip and it is a joy to drive with them on (puts a kink in your leg at the knee) - anyway, comfortable short time and even for a couple hour drive - you get out and can walk around just fine. And nice for shorter people too. My only real complaint in owning one is that the tunnel for transmission really does need dynamat as it can get a little toasty - not with standard fan on the car, but with a Bermuda fan as it really moves some air though.

My 1933 J2 - that I have for sale too.

1. J2 cars are cable operated brakes so most J2 owners will be no help in your question(s) regarding hydraulic brakes (though your question via hydraulic applies to countless other cars). Your dad’s J2 was converted to hydraulic at some point in time (not authentic, but the car will stop better). 2. In the picture there is a copper colored washer - it goes on the brake junction to the wheel cylinder (the big nut you unscrewed). They seal the coupling that has the big bolt through it. Hint on floor as it looks to have moved. If you need a new one you can take the old one to a good auto parts store. If something else goes astray - perhaps find a business called “from the frame up” - a nice MG supplier who has a good head on his shoulders. 3. The bracket hardware may be whitworth (it may involve all the wrenches you own SAE, metric, whitworth, or generic adjustable. 4. Your system will be yelling out “down” and then having who we press the pedal down while you loosen the bleeder - then you tighten and say “up”. Lefty loosey and righty tighty

Best we can tell, the dispatch sheet from factory says Blue paint, Blue Interior, and and Blue wheels, while the hood hinge stamping says the car was black. There are handwritten notes from eons ago of MMM records that say the car had paint modifications, though those details no longer exist. It very well could have been a Midnight Blue or Tuxedo Blue (very dark) as original paint I find looks very dark. The interior had one older piece remaining that looks MG Dark Red, though it is hard to tell if truly an original piece. My best guess really looking at car is paint was Dark Blue with a Black bonnet/hood top and cowl top. Most sports and prewar car enthusiasts will say “an MG J2 is the most interesting automobile that anyone will ever own.”

Much loved at events !!!

You are looking for a photo of what looks to be like a Duesenberg with a very stylized waterfall art deco grill - but there should be plenty more that do not exist for whatever reason and for two cars (and where is the other body and where is the other grill)

I believe the body shows itself with a streamline grill (much different than the one on the current car) on a whatever chassis that looks like a more streamlined Duesenberg - and apologies I do not have the photo. The front fenders are from a Brooks Steven’s Cord (probably transplanted WWII era or …) Here is the catch - why are there no “period” photos of the car in its current configuration and my understanding is that there are or were two bodies (a blue one and a maroon one) and/or two grills (Blue and maroon too - of which one is on the car now). So there should even be more a chance of photos ?

Here is a prewar photo of a J2 (The magnesium trim and fins on the brake drums has been painted).

They actually do better than 40 mph - remember when a T series car was made (TA to TF), MG had already concluded their racing program - the J and P Series cars were within the racing program (sort of like the big block Ford program and … of race car on weekend and grocery running during the week). I would not care to be in one at 65 mph (for any more than a minute or two), though 50 mph is not all that uncommon (and can take on 55 mph for short distances too). Obviously, at the time of manufacture, England was mostly congested cities or narrow winding roads - no need for a car to probably go over 40 mph - Autocar test report was something like top speed 78mph (and of course that nearly bankrupted MG with warranty work). There are those that rebuild the engine to fairly modern standards to vintage race. And there are those who install superchargers too. I live right in town in a larger city and city streets or state routes are never a problem with 30’s cars, though I-75 though town is rather notorious for being heavily traveled and something I try to stay off of with any car new or old.

I am 6’ 2” and have no problem whatsoever - and the “cycle” fender cars make it easier to get in and out much more easily than the “full” fendered cars (much easier than a TC, TD, or TF or anything where you have to worry about shoes scratching paint). Doors are bigger than the postwar models and T Series too. Plus, seats adjust and steering column adjusts too. To answer the question better - generally, taller is more comfortable for a longer times than really short as you have your legs bent versus just straight out in front. Most people will tell you a couple hours in a day is max for touring. You can put your hands on the steering wheel hub (but you do not want to be pulling on a $500.00 to $1,000 steering wheel. not designed to be pulled upon) and on the seat backs (a bench back is a little more practical than buckets - all have divided lower cushions) to help. So, tall or shorter are fine, then you do not need to be a rail and stout is fine too, though a “tubby tummy” tends to be problematic. And most J2’s get relegated to the back of the garage or sold by those who lack agility - a good car to own as a reminder that you need to focus on older age agility. There were 2000-ish built, about 500 survive, a fair number of survivors are mix and match cars, and I am told this car was very fortunate to be exported to be hidden for years to save it from the fates of most - I have received a huge number of compliments ! This what all those from other countries arriving in England for the War fell in love with !

1933 MG J2 Midget Sports The Quintessential English Sport Car !!! This 1933 MG J2 was recently found for me by one of the premier Prewar MG restoration specialists in the United States, though I really require a car for immediate Concours d’Elegance shows and touring (I am involved with the second oldest Concours in the United States - Cincinnati Concours d’Elegance). This J2 (in its original cycle fendered configuration) is super solid and very respectable automobile. I am particularly impressed with the fantastic condition of the chassis, the engine spins freely, and this automobile is very complete. Things that also caught my attention were the beautiful condition of the brake drums, linings and axel spindles/splines discovered when replacing its tires (they were prewar retreaded originals and now replaced with new Longstone’s). And I have spent approximately $14k in upgraded and reproduction parts to ensure this MG will be and can easily be properly restored. Some spares/non photographed parts included such as SU OM 1” Carbs, reproduction rear fenders, and original canvas top. This J2 possibly has a Race / Competition history via appearing to at one time having been fitted with a Brooklands style passenger side exterior exhaust. MG Car Club (MGCC) Triple-M (MMM) Register #3694. Many of these cars have been “tracked” since new. This J2 receives a lot of compliments for surviving so intact. This was an unknown J2 to MMM Register (and any MG Register or Club) until 2023. The original MG Factory “build sheet data” (5 - 6 pages) has been researched with MGCC and is included in sale. J2 3346 (Chassis Plate) / J3346 (Frame) / 3346 BK (Bonnet), Engine 2209 AJ / 2195 AJ, Body 566, Built May 08, 1933, Purchased June 22 1933, Licensed JY2022 (Plymouth Devin) August 05, 1933. Original Owner PC Stocker, The Rifle Brigade (PC is his rank), being sold though agent Heard Brothers Bideford, Devin for agent Barton Motor Company, Plymouth Devin. Last run in England in supposedly 1968. This J2 was exported from England to California in 1968 and was in California/Nevada until 2023, to now reside in Cincinnati, Ohio. johnmereness@gmail.com An awesome little car !!! $26,500 usd

Rare to see an eatrly 30's closed car with leather, but they made them. I have seen a 29 Packard and a 30 Packard - one had original leather headlining and the other had original cloth. There are a handfull of Franklins out there with original leather interios too.

I have moved away from wood screws in door hinges and engineer a through bolt w/wahers/lockwashers/nuts or a tee nut

I may have bought one of the last one out there. There are actually a few done cars sitting around without one - just waiting. There are some repros and they ddo not allow the hood to sit flat enough. You can tig weld two MGTD centers, but then have to replate and .... (but perhasp can figure out who may repporduce and have extrude a longer one).

I can photocopy one for you if you want to go that route - only have a photocopy though so quality will be iffy

As a sidenote: Yesterday, I saw a 1928 Packard in untouched condition - for the most part the body still had the original pinstripes, a little mothy and fenders had surface ruston tops, though it was 100% complete, not a single dent, untouched and technically a good restoration candidate - excepting a fatal flaw in that it had entirely shot wood in like for whatever reason there was not a single piece that seemed decent to the point of watching where your feet were when opening a door (which I would never expected given condition of car as a whole - ex. seeing original paint that would polish, original pinstripes, and I see many original cars running around with not nearly as nice interiors). The owner's decision was that it would be parted out as the transmission was needed for a friends convertible coupe. I put in a request for 4 parts. Another fellow was in line for the grill and lamps. Basically, a good start to part out Last nights discussion was that restoration of late 20's and early 30's Packards has killed the parts supply to point where people cannot get their cars finished without herculean effort not keep their restored or original cars running without same effort. This is a relatively valuable car to someone restoring a car - This is a 6 wire wheel car and all appear nice (a great improvement over a wood wheel car - and I know a lot of people like their wood wheels, though ....), if you calculate the cost of restoring a set of fenders which will be $$$$ as in an easy four digits each (my last set was 10K each front and 3.5K for each rear) the benefit of a decent set is night and day and end long term result will be better too (plus sidemounted over rear wheel and that is nice with an early 30's car as they have limited storage without a trunk rack/trunk), same rationale with a radiator shell, someone always needs a bunch of little brackets and misc, a steering wheel that stands potential verses say restoring a cracked one, a steering column and all related pars, perhaps a better set of lights than what you are restoring, someone is always struggling with cracked 90 Series manifolds/carbs/starter/generator/water pump/etc., someone is always struggling with bumpers, and ...

The problem with a Startix is that people are not use to driving with them - seemed when we first started going to ACD Festival that someone would always go home with their front bumper in the backseat - they would pull up too close to someone and then stall it to have it try to restart and be too flustered to react properly = bang. I cannot recall what I was doing when I sent the 35 Auburn Sedan into the back of the garage - turned out fine, but there is still a dent in the drywall. On my cars the restart function is disabled, though the Startix still remain as they serve as a starter solenoid. The most problematic applications seem to be Cord and next Auburn (matched to a couple Packards) as the units hang on the engine blocks and a lot of heat for the technology of the unit build.

Parking 101 error

This car was in Cincinanti for eons - it was sold perhaps 20 years ago - a super sweet original car. Glen Morris bought and resold car and should know its wherabouts