John_Mereness

An attractive car whether factory or someones later conversion (also notice the "appropriate" rounded rear door corner and how drip molding extend to door hinge area) - if solid and in decent condition it will make a nice car - look at it, have someone look at it for you, or insist on 200 more pictures.

What is left of the factory records for Bohman & Schwartz are held be Randy Ema - he owns a restoration shop in Los Angeles area.

Notice the radiator too - looks like it has overheated or needs a radiator repair.

Take a good look at that flag, I am sure you know what that is - just not sure what the protocol was for who would be displaying one.

Personally, I would not do any of the above, as you will never be able to get these wools wet and as a result will hinder your fun with this "touring" car.

I agree with the factory verses non-factory, though i will tell you that any closed 20's /30's car I have added windwings too i have been very pleased - really helps for comfort via touring.

If I was checking the boxes for a closed Cord to buy one - I would ideally want an early armchair Beverly with the bolt on trunk (they bolt on like an 34-36 Auburn Sedan or Phaeton bolts on, but I do not think many were made) and in Geneva Blue (or Rich maroon) would be nice.

Congratulations ! And please do share. Also, I like your good old fashioned metal gasoline cans !

That was fun, I usually do not sit through an entire auction.

The Opel GT was probably a steal at 2K - my Aunt drove one new and it rusted up to the door handles and then a little further (ie one with no rust to limited rust if such was the case is pretty rare).

I get the impression it is a pretty nice example of a Super Beetle Coupe (as well as a super nice example of a Beetle Convertible).

Amelia Island Concours had a coachbuilt Volkswagon class - it helps that these cars are getting some notoriety in addition to a fair number of VW people looking for things that are unusual/different.

Agreed (it appears put on temporary - a regulator would be best placed near fuel pump under the car). It has been stored with aviation fuel in it - a real plus.

People should be buying Cord L-29's via quality of the underlying product prior to restoration (was it a decent car pre-restoration) more so than being concerned with color. I am still leaning toward the black unrestored car being something people could figure out it was always a pretty decent car (ie they bought a decent base product to work with).

We have seen some that are exceptionally nice and fair market value (occasionally less, but that gets harder by the day) and then we also see ones that I know we cannot take in as the owner is just not willing to loose and they are in way (often way, way, and more way) over fair market value. If you buy one a FMV you could win or you could loose and if you overpay and hope the market will catch up to you - well, some people have done it successfully, but not sure where this is all going in next couple years - ie you could lose too. Good news is that at a certain range around FMV they did not stick around long before finding a new garage. The rusted and then welded up cars are still welded up cars (some rust repair is ok, but ...) = a whole different discussion no matter the quality of their restoration.

You advertised you wanted one - isn't this supposed to be the result ?

This trunk would also be very appropriate for a 1932, 1933, plus Cadillac (if the correct size for the rack).

There really is not anything wrong with an L-29 in Yellow with Green trim. I am not sure how exactly it work on a new car, but somewhere I have like 4 standard Cabriolet color combinations (ex. Ken Clark's Cabriolet finished in Black with Copper color trim is one combination listed).

My guessing is the "unrestored" L-29 was deemed to have been a better product to start with - I found such curious too (guess my decision would have been made seeing pair together in person).

There is no reported sale price (only car in auction that does not have one so far).

A set of service bulletins really help with these cars - they were reproduced in the 1960's or early 1970's - something to keep an eye open for. And, the RROC use to make a CD of the entire history of the club publications - invaluable.

Also, Rhode Island Wire can make you "double woven wiring" (which I believe was made by Westinghouse) - I do not recall the gauge, but the insulation is a double thickness. And, the terminals are insulated with a waxed cloth string. And, a few other people keep the wire in stock.

I have always been fortunate enough to not have a problem with one of these, but if going to the effort to rebuild and you or a client are willing via time/patience/wallet, the casing on these generators is nickle plated and the perfect time to replate is when you know you have to replace the field winding. Personally, I would not be afraid to try my hand via your best local/regional generator rebuilding shop or I would be getting on the phone with Brian Joseph at Classic and Exotic, Pierce at https://www.vintagegaragevt.com/ , Tim Jayne,at Dennison-Jayne Motors tim@royceparts.com, Steve Litton at vintage and Auto Rebuilds nfo@ghostparts.com , Steve Babinsky has probably been here done that, and I am sure there are quite a few other people who have reinvented the wheel here.

I was standing at the workbench at Fran Roxas' shop and he was showing me a stitch weld crack repair in a Duesenberg cylinder head - and he made the alarming comment that he sees via his shop about 50% needing some sort of crack repair (he mentioned though casually and did not seem alarmed and I did not give it much thought either until speaking with someone who did have an unrepairable one). Good news is stitch welding looks like a really solid solution, but bad news is when a head or .. would be so bad that there is no solution.