John_Mereness

I recorded Chasing Classic Cars the other evening and he did an episode with a 1931 Packard 840 Roadster and discussed it being 70's colors and not particularly to today's taste. He spoke about it not selling at prior auction so he changed the colors to black. When I looked at the earlier photos though I instantaneously disliked the tan top, the light/throttle cluster in the steering wheel was broken (it is right in your face), dirty carpets, a color and look of leather that was marginal, and a couple of missing screws and ... - I would say he came close in his first upgrade via darker painted wires and blackwalls, but "aesthetics "and "freshness" perhaps are reasons it fell a little short for the money (ex. a black top would have made a huge difference). And, I am very cautious of Scottsdale Auction venues as a strategy for these type of cars. .

I get the impression that the car is not part of the auction and/or perhaps was just on loan for display at the museum and for sale (aka page you found this on is not currently visible). https://www.silverauctionsaz.com/j-r-collection

It's match

Kind of interesting when you read the comments how many of us commenting like an original/unrestored car, though there is a flip side of the coin and plenty of people do not want unrestored cars and really do seek restored cars. There also seems to be a division between people wanting a well restored car and a truly well restored car (aka one that drives, everything works, and...) And, there is another group that wants restored and will not touch it unless well restored and aka one that drives, everything works, and...) and car was a nearly perfect original car to begin with pre-restoration. Ned Herman use to recommend buying the best original car that money will buy and then restoring it doing whatever it takes to turn it back into a new car (a lot of fantastic original cars became restored, but even 40-50-60 years later if fortunate to get one of his restorations they are really extraordinary).

Prices are somewhat across the board, but I think 200-300K to not be out of line for a really well done car (especially if it was a decent car from day one). Also, a well done car will have significant investment in replacing die cast trim alone, plus such as hubcaps and ... The advantage to of a Club Sedan is that you get an adjustable front seat - a blessing in most early 30's cars. It is referenced on this page - a 4361-S: https://www.newcadillacdatabase.org/static/CDB/Dbas_txt/V6srv30a-sambeat.htm

Add'l by the way, I have always enjoyed my conversations with Dick Shappy and he has helped me out of a bind or two (or three plus for that matter).

By the way, Tom Laferriere just sold a very nice original V-16 Club Sedan (like sold it last week).

West, enjoyed your Packard piece in recent CCCA !

West, you and I both have very diverse interest in cars (ie we like a large base of cars from 1900 to sitting on the dealer showroom floor), but the reputation around here locally seems to be most of the things we are interested in do not fit their supposed target market (ie. we are irrelevant) - while that may or may not be the case as I have not subscribed to any of their publications since the mid-1990's that seems to where the conversation gets moved to by people who have asked me (I say "no clue" and then they start saying they feel the "bulls-eye" is being missed by the "arrow").

Matt, I too find the colors fine on it - metallic may be a touch aggressive verses a pearl, but that is where the legend of metallic paint starts. . Also, nicely accessorized all be it if you pull out an accessory brochure the heron and the Dual Pilot Ray are 1931 (in 1930 they offered a single 8" standard Pilot Ray and a Goddess), but the sidemount =mirrors are fine in the more plain style (31 had the script mirrors) and the tire covers are fine too for a 1930, all be it they would have a emblem/badge. I do not think stainless spokes are in either 1930 or 31 accessory brochure, but obviously they were commonplace so there was a way to order them. The backside of the bumpers would be painted when the car was new (in this case I would say maroon). Exhaust should have fishtails - repros available Pete Saunders and also David Gano. If not aware there is the V-16 survivors site: https://www.newcadillacdatabase.org/static/CDB/Dbas_txt/V6srv30.htm I do not know how successful someone will be running a V-16 on an electric pump - at least they would have to gave really low pressure as I bet 1.5 pounds is a lot.

They come up. May I suggest a Facebook page called Suicideslabs or Suicide Slabs. By the way, a comon theme on the webpage is vapor lock, fuel pumps, carbs, window switches, and "the car is now being loaded onto a flatbed" (aka the cars tended to be pretty much state of the art for the time and their complicated nature has not changed). Keep in mind that they are a cult car and even more so in the "Western States," so while you can get one reasonable priced still you may at times find you have strong competition.

I watched a recorded episode last night regarding Shelby Daytona Coupe and Bugatti Tank - tends to be a half hour program with repetition to string it out matched to a few wording and editing glitches (close though). Again, I still had a good time watching.

I like this about your profile: AACA Member but all of my cars are licensed & have garage doors.

A darker wheel would be nice too (that being said though, my rule is usually the lighter the wheel the better it looks with blackwalls and the darker the wheel the more generally it looks better with DOUBLE WHITEWALLS (a Photoshop project to figure out best route though). As mentioned, always grief getting "top dollar" without a discount selling cars that look "1970's."

www.restorationstuff.com ? Or, maybe one of the Model A Ford houses ?

A friend in LA drive Model A Fords - one for everyone in their family (for really hot days they also have a Shay with A/C and and for a big trip they have a 1935 w/add on a/c) - they say perfect car for LA and say usually valets let them part right by the door.

Like a valet could figure out how to run some of them - you just do 20 to 50 plus steps and off it goes right ?

With the 20's & 30's cars usually drive with a reproduction cap verses a holy grail - also the cap tends to be hot as ... from driving when you park the car, so I give it some thought ahead of time as to which ornament is on the car as I do not want to wait for it to cool off. My RR Cap for driving - A Desmo Scotty

I am forward thinking - we never go in reverse (most of the cars I have you cannot see a thing out of looking rearward). Otherwise, I really do not care what it is or how much it is worth, it is just a car and the only reason we have them is because I enjoy them (art goes on the walls and cars go on the street).

I have had tops done by this company: That being said, this company has a kit top and Putt Georgi owns the business and and he knows his stuff (they may be wholesale though, but easy enough to find someone with an account if that is the case) : http://www.aro2000.com/ http://www.aro2000.com/203_installed.htm

There is an hour long Chasing Classic Cars episode out there somewhere regarding the Minerva: Preview https://watch.motortrend.com/tv-shows/chasing-classic-cars/videos/hawkeyes-minerva Ralph is a good sport - he pushes cars on the London to Brighton and he was changing wheels on a Studebaker in this past weeks episode.

Not much interchanges, but a few parts do via such as a 1930. What year car are you working on - there is a lot of very knowledgeable people here that are always willing to help ?

Sidenote: I had probably the last NOS unit on the globe and then had Arthur Gould rebuild that - and put $400.00 into it in perhaps 2001.