hchris

So there`s a big discrepancy between 1 and 4 despite the engine being cold, in fact other than 4 they all look sick, what do the other cylinders read ? To ascertain whether compression leaks are valve or piston ring related, squirt a little oil into the cylinder being checked then do the test, if the pressure is significantly higher after the oil treatment then its indicating faulty rings, if the pressure reading remains much the same then there is a valve leak. Given your opening comments about rings and heads being messed with, makes it rather difficult to give specific diagnosis; perhaps you need to start again ?? if it were my car, I would not be impressed with that much oil lying on top of the piston in photo 2. With the carb fault, I would assume you had a lot of residual fuel lying in the manifold which is going to smoke until it all clears thru combustion.The reason I asked about the electric pump, is I suspect, that`s the cause of flooding, it`s simply overwhelming the float needle, so if you continue to use it you may need a regulator, in the first instance however I would try running without using it.

Looks to me like oil has run down an open valve whilst motor is staionary, good chance the valve guides are shot.

Gotta say that's most intriguing.

Well if it's flooding you are never going to get the mixtures right, so at this point I wouldn't assume that anything's blocked.

Down here it was simply known as a Valiant, our first ever Chrysler Valiant whats more.

Good thinking, 1.5psi was the acknowledged standard for vac feed systems back in the day.

Well it would appear that float needle isn't doing the job of stopping fuel flow when the carb bowl fills up. So what's causing pressure build up when the engine has stopped, a number of possibilities exist: do you have an electric fuel pump still running? Is there enough heat to cause fuel boiling? some carbs have an anti percolation system inbuilt to prevent residual heat causing too much carb bowl build up after shut down Is it possible that the fuel cap vent is blocked, causing excessive tank pressures after shutdown? Putting aside the other problems you have encountered it surely won't run right until you get this sorted.

I'm curious you keep mentioning flex plate turns ok, do you have trans out ?

I have an idea that 34 Plymouth were the same size, perhaps another avenue ?

Reckon you will struggle with this, there are some people who spray metal inside the drum and remachine to get the lining surface back. As to replacements, I have never heard of anyone downunder, swap meets etc are probably your best shot. Have a look in Restored Cars for drum refubishers.

What Keiser said, but just to elaborate a little - assuming you have the original engine, cooling tubes were introduced around 1934; you can tell by noting that the pre tube blocks have the upper cylinders exposed in the block casting on the starter motor side, after that the blocks were flat both sides.

Need a big a*** puller, plenty of info here if you search rear brake drum removal.

The motor as such doesn't care about polarity, if you've applied 12v to the 6v motor then it probably won't be happy.

If you find the answer let us know, there are thousands world wide who would love to hear the answer.

Take the manifold off again and put sealant on the retaining bolts, some of them go into the water jacket.

Looks pretty good to me, variations could also include carbon build up on the high ones, a little valve leak on the low ones. With those numbers I certainly wouldn't be touching anything.

Have a look at some of the Australian Chrysler websites: built by Chrysler down here, they sold very well. Unlike the US product where this body style was marketed for both Plymouth and Dodge variants, downunder they were only sold as Chrysler Valiant.

Think I would be looking at the light switch, brake / tail and headlights are usually wired independently, very unusual to have headlights fused; more likely to be a resetable breaker in the headlamp switch; unless of course we are talking prewar.

Agreed to all of the above, put simply, if the engine is turning slowly i.e. starting or slogging up a hill then the spark needs to be retarded, at normal road speeds it needs to be advanced.

OK , well how about knocking the timing back a few degrees to set say 16" vacuum as suggested by Beemon, then see how it runs. Another factor could be the carb float setting too high, this will make it run a little richer and at idle you may not get enough adjustment out of the mixture screws. But its important that you try these things one at a time to see what effect they have.

Still used today in light aircraft.

Perhaps it might be easier if you were to tell us what make of car it is, someone may then respond with a wiring diagram. The answer to your first question is yes, some coils have a built-in ballast reistor, some have an external resistor.

First you need to disconnect the drop arm from the tie rod, then the 4 bolts that hold the steering box to the chassis. I find then its easiest to remove the steering wheel and drag the whole lot up through the floor (having of course removed the floor boards/panels). Maybe remove the steering wheel first rather than later, oh and there will be wires running down the inside of the steering column that need to be disconnected.

The whole point of using the vac guage is to fine tune, get the basic settings with the timing light then use the vac guage to adjust timing and mixtures to obtain the highest vac reading, then back timing off to lower your highest vac reading an inch or two. Follow up with a road test and listen for pinging, if you encounter pinging back off timing in small increments until it stops.

And how does it drive, notice any difference ?