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hchris

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Everything posted by hchris

  1. Took me 3 days to shift my 34 Chrysler drums, same puller same advice as everyone else, patience is the key.
  2. Difficult to pick missing under load, could be fuel or ignition. Given that you've been through the fuel system, it might be worthwhile looking at points/condenser/coil/plugs and wires. Pulling the plugs after a run when it's playing up might reveal something, are the plugs sooty? or pale? How about the points, are they black/burnt, correct gap ?
  3. Ok, read the question again and realised the value was for crank over rather than running. I'm assuming we're measuring downstream of the throttle.
  4. Hmmm sounds alright to me, what values are you thinking?
  5. And what about the fuel supply from the tank ?
  6. So what about fuel supply from the tank ? Have you done anything to check for blockage between the tank and pump ? Also I'm curious as to how you're verifying 8lb output and 2lb of vacuum, normally these pumps would only be putting out around 3 - 4psi, 8psi is well beyond the float needle capability.
  7. 1934 Chrysler CB Town Sedan, internal trunk accessed by folding down rear seat cushion.
  8. Did you read the link in Carbkings response? that pretty much explains it in a nutshell, that's the item re fuel leak from throttle shaft, commonly known as heat soak. Also more often than not it leads to the other condition of hard starting when hot.
  9. The fact that it starts after shutdown is more likely to be associated with heat soak than float level as the other guys have mentioned.
  10. Sounds high up to me, possibly piston/gudgen pin ? If the noise decreases when you pull a plug wire that's indicative of lightening the load on a particular piston and subsequent noise reduction, also it might account for the now you hear it, now you dont symptom due to the piston/pin moving around. Certainly doesn't sound like bearings or crank issues, perhaps you could start investigating by dropping the oil, put a stocking or something over the catch pan and see if there are any metal bits floating around.
  11. Steady 18" Vac at idle is good, below 15" means wear and tear making an impact. Compression around the 80 - 100psi is desirable but anything above 60 means there's life left in it, so long as all readings are within 10 - 15% of each other.
  12. There's only one fuse in this era mounted, on the ammeter as you've found. At some point a fusible cutout was introduced on the lighting switch, it's function was to break the circuitry if a short occurred and then reset. Might be a good place to start.
  13. Same as most every other engine, around the 180 mark is good.
  14. Yes and yes; doable but difficult with the manifold (s) in the way. You may well find better access by taking the wheel off on the manifold side and seeing if there's a removable inner guard panel, many vehicles of this period were fitted like this for that reason. Obviously safe jacking and supporting the car is paramount!!
  15. If it's a fluid switch cnrack a brake line/nipple, if the light goes out you've got pressure trapped in the system.
  16. This style of joint is completely different to what we now know as a U joint, so short answer is no. However I have seen later era (50s) Mopar tailshaft conversions adapted without too much work.
  17. I'm a little confused, you say backfire out the exhaust? technically a backfire is through the carbs; afterfire is through the exhaust. Afterfire is pretty rare and is more likely to be a timing issue, wouldn't entirely discount carbs but more inclined to look at timing particularly when you mention cam,coil and distributor; assuming these have been newly installed ?
  18. Looking at your photo I'm sort of amazed that whoever did the conversion didn't aim to get the threaded portion of the plugs to sit at the same depth of the originals, I'm guessing that the 45s is at least 1/8" or more longer than the 10mm plug; wondering how far above the piston the electrode sits ? As to the plugs themselves, the 45s is going to run much colder having almost twice the ceramic insulation of the original, but I'm assuming, it's been running ok with them for some time, would be interesting if you could find some plugs of similar size to the originals in 14 mm (i.e.
  19. What Brian said; beyond that I'm a great advocate of tuning with a vacuum guage. If you can find a port in the manifold to hook up a vacuum guage it's so much easier to get timing/mixture etc. sorted, bearing in mind fuel properties have changed so much since these cars were built.
  20. Correct - having said that, with fuel injection and engine management systems plus the ability to lean out the mixture in cruise they`re not too bad.
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