hchris

Colder spark plugs dissipate heat quicker from the combustion chamber; if the electrode is accumulating carbon this will lead to a glow plug effect leading to dieseling.

Whilst you mentioned changing the plugs, have you considered trying colder heat range spark plugs ?

Looks pretty good; Stoichometric ideal is around 13:1.

Echoing marcapra, before disturbing the head I would be going in through the inner guard access panel, Get the side cover off and watch the valves as you hand turn it over, you might be able to get some free up stuff blasting in around the valve stems.

Perhaps then you would rather take the engine apart ..... that's a bigger annoyance

Have you considered just repositioning the plug wires to suit the firing order ?

Also, any possibility the choke fast idle mechanism is holding the throttle open ?

Maybe rotate the distributor a fraction and see if revs drop.

Do as Matt H has said, set the scale to 4 cylinder. Why, because the meter is reading 4 impulses each revolution.

What he said:)

Have you checked valve clearances ?

Current running through the coil will make it hot (think electric bar radiator). If the points aren't opening, or, current is permanently going to ground somewhere else, then the coil will get excessively hot.

Coil gets hot, hmm, are the points opening ?

Photos would help

Yep, rebuild before it self destructs.

If its wheel / tyre related it's probably going to feel relatively slow and rhythmic in intensity; as opposed to higher frequency for a mechanical/drive train issue. Also (may have already been asked) does it go away whilst rolling along in neutral ?

Having sat for a lengthy period, have you considered a flat spot or out of round tyre ?

Overdrives are very basic, hence not prone to mechanical faiilures. If there's going to be a problem it's usually electrical, faulty switching or governor issues. None of it insurmountable.

If I can chip in; owning a 34 Chrysler 6 (not airflow), pre 1934/35 the 6 cylinder engines were, whats often described as 1/2 water jacket as per Rusty's description. Quite a lot of work is required to adapt to the later (full water jacket) engine, different location of engine mounts, transmission, bell housing, starter motor and so on, obviously reverse engineering from later to earlier engines has the same issues. I'm not certain about the 8 cylinder engines but suspect similar pitfalls would be involved. So, FWIW I'm thinking a repair or substitute of the 8 cylinder would be the easiest option, in cases you're wondering when I say Chrysler, this would apply to Plymouth and Desoto as well.

Upper is chrome, riveted portion is body colour.

Large rear window would suggest 1959/60. If there's a wiper motor under the hood, you might find a 2 digit number stamped in the motor case, i.e 59 would indicate 1959.

Yes, the Alpine was my first sports car, still own it after 13 years and for all it's foibles I still enjoy getting out and about in it. Going slightly off topic with the sports car theme; a couple of years ago I bought a 2002 Mazda MX5 (Miata),well I reckon that if you're after an inexpensive joy ride these are definitely the best bangs for your buck you are ever going to see.

The 61 had twin downdraft Zeniths which many thought (and still do) were a much better choice of carbs. Having said that, perhaps the North American market could have been catered for differently. The only single carb offering was a twin throat downdraft Zenith around 1963/64 and it had a horrible reputation so wasn't offered for too long. Competition wise, the 1600 was often chosen over the 1725, being a freer reving engine and stronger crank.

Hmmm, need to be brave to take this on, looks like a potential parts car. With 1600 engine it won't ķeep up with an MGB, however it will still be close behind.

Along with the slight idle stumble, you can feel a drop in temperature if you hold the vac tank fuel input pipe, this is another indicator that fuel is flowing through it.