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56 Buick

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  1. Is it all windows? I would find the electrical diagram for the car and follow that to give you an idea of where to start looking. A continuity tester can be used to determine which part of the circuit is failing. Once you know which part of the circuit is the problem then you will need to find out why. It could be a short or loose connector or something else that is affected by heat.
  2. My understanding is that there is no magic list but you could try a Parts Book. Failing that are you able to measure the diameters of the metal tubes where the ducts slide over? Diameters will go up in 1/4" increments if that assists in working out a size - remembering the duct goes over the metal tube so the outside diameter of the tube will be the internal diameter of the duct (which is the measurement you want). Re lengths I can only suggest using a tape measure to get an approximate length and then adding some to be sure. May be a bit hit and miss unfortunately.
  3. On a quick look the car looked relatively original but there is a lot of tidying up work if you could call it that. The carb looked different from the portion I could see but I could be wrong. Obviously it would have had a generator and not alternator. It would be wise to do an inspection to see what is working or not. Noting there are some one year only items on the 56 that can get expensive to replace or repair (brake master cylinder immediately springs to mind). And if you start changing out everything like getting a new interior or chrome for example then the costs will quickly start rising. Also, looks like someone had the car apart at some stage but it depends what they did and how well. Overall I would think the biggest thing to look out for is rust.
  4. Yes, very optimistic at that price and it certainly has some work to do but if it sells for the right price then it may be a good buy for someone.
  5. In case anyone is interested there is a no reserve 56 4 door Century currently listed on Hemmings auctions. 8 days or so left on auction and current bid $2000. Not a bad original looking car. I will see if I can post a photo but so far having limited success with my phone in doing so.
  6. For some reason, which I am yet to explain, my car did a similar thing and used to pop and carry on. Spit dark soot out the exhaust but smooth out with higher rpm. Stopped after I purchased NOS non-resistor plugs. Not saying that is a fix for you but sure sounds similar.
  7. No direct experience but it could be a myriad of possible things. Start with the simple things and go from there. I assume you have the shop manual? If it is intermittent then it will be more difficult to find the fault but I would start with a test light or similar and start confirming where live power is getting to. The shop manual will show you how the power travels. Follow the path and check firmness of connections as you go. This could be something as simple as a connection issue with the ignition key to an issue with the starter solenoid and anything in between. I know the nuetral switch can require adjustment and if that was out then that could be affecting the ability to start but a simple test would be to bypass that switch and see what happens. I have tackled similar electrical issues so I certainly don't envy you but you will find it eventually. Someone else will chime in with some more ideas but let us know how you go.
  8. You could also do what I ended up doing which was using oversize brake shoes. That will take up much of the difference.
  9. Someone will correct me if I am wrong but the bumper is a Special/Century but to suit the optional dual exhaust tips. I would agree there have been new inserts at least.
  10. Certainly a lot of work done on that car.
  11. Finally got it sorted and working as it should. Many thanks again. Drew
  12. Thanks guys. Okay, I will confirm the colours of the wires and routing but it sounds like there is something wrong.
  13. Thanks John, that is the same picture I tried but apparently failed to put in my post. And it is the picture that has led to my confusion given my car has both wires going to the ballast resistor.
  14. Hi all Hoping someone can assist with the routing of the wiring going/coming from the accelerator vacuum switch that sits on the side of the carb. On my car the 2 wires connected to the accelerator vacuum switch both run to the ballast resistor on the firewall of the car which doesn't make sense to me given the below wiring diagram for the 56. If anyone can tell me where the wiring off the accelerator vacuum switch in their car is going that will likely assist me figuring out what is going on. Thanks Drew
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