56 Buick

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  1. Not sure if already covered but considering it's an issue on a near full tank, is there a gasket between the tank and the vent tube that could be leaking rather than the vent tube itself?
  2. There are few holes in the bottom areas of the sheet metal. It may well be that the undercarriage is fairly well rusted away. Wouldn't be unusual for that to have happened in a salt belt State. And the cost to repair that could be incredible. Only way is to visually check the state of the undercarriage. Just my 2 cents.
  3. Wow looks extremely nice. I am no 58 expert but convertibles are always expensive and you really need to compare it to other 58s in condition versus price.
  4. Hi Craig, yes you certainly do have drums to suit the Century but they are just too expensive for me presently. Besides I am thinking the larger Roadmaster brakes would be an option with braking improvement. Thanks
  5. Hi, I have been looking for some good brake drums to suit the 56 Century for a while. Not having too much luck. So am now trying to see if anyone has the front drums and backing plates for the 52-56 Roadmaster - may as well get better braking at the same time. I am looking for good drums of course that have limited wear as I don't want drums worse than what I have. Thanks, Drew.
  6. Thanks, I thought it would be the 52-56 only but wanted to check.
  7. Hi Attached is a photo of a brake backing plate from the front brake of a Roadmaster 70 series Buick. You can see the backing plate has a round centre hole. My Century, apart from being a smaller car, has a larger square hole allowing the spindle assembly to fit through the square hole. I believe the pictured backing plate is from a '57' Roadmaster but my query is whether the pictured backing plate with the round hole is the same for the 52-56 Roadmasters? In other words, do the 52-56 Roadmasters have the same round hole as oppossed to the larger sqaure shaped hole? Thanks
  8. The car may well have used ethanol fuel before I bought it and likely also sat without running for long periods. I have not used ethanol fuel but again the car csn sit for a while without starting. The car has petronix electronic ignition but a reason I put that system on was that the engine was running rough when I bought the car. I did a compression test and the figures weren't fantastic - cylinders varying between 105 and 135 with majority around the 120/125 if I recall correctly. The carb just seemed like the culprit as the rough idle has steadily been getting worse. One side idle mixture screw has quite limited responsiveness - I did try to blow out any sediment with compressed air but that had no effect. And it is dufficult to get engine to idle low unless I physically push the throttle linkage back against the stop despite the idle and choke settings being backed right off.
  9. Hi all The car has a worsening idle and hesitation on acceleration. I have replaced almost all the ignition system and suspect the issue resides with the Rochester 4GC carb. I am interested to obtain opinions as to whether its best to buy a kit and rebuild the carb myself or buy a fully reconditioned unit? I have also read of opinions regarding the Carter WCFB vs the Rochester. Are the 2 units interchangeable or require alteration of manifold and/or linkages? Thanks Drew
  10. BTW the manner in which the vacuum hose lines all connect is quite complicated. Not sure about your car but when I acquired my car the lines were all over the place. Anyway I am sure the workshop manual pictures the layout but failing that the Hometown Buick website has it.
  11. I should point out that the workshop manual may not specifically provide info on how to fix the wiper switch but you need the manual. Fixing the switch will likely be trial and error but I suspect moving that top switch arm activates a part of the wiper motor causing its arc to speed up or alternatively have a wider arc. I would ensure the wiper motor and vacuum lines are all in good order before looking at the switch. If it is still not working then you may have to pull it and play with it to see how it operates - once you know how it works then you are more than half way to fixing it.
  12. I could be totally wrong but if I recall correctly the top switch on the camomatic controls whether you want a wide sweep of the wipers or a faster shorter sweep. The whole switch will be vacuum operated so there should be a vacuum hose dedicated to that specific operation. It will certainly be helpful to you if you buy a workshop manual for the car. You can buy copies off ebay or better yet one of the buick parts sellers will likely sell these. I have one for the 56 and it is invaluable when owning/working on these cars. The net site Hometown Buick also has this info but there is nothing better than paper right in front of you. In regard to the speaker knob you can try the buy/sell forum or there may be a new repro available. Unfortunately, it may involve some investigative shopping (part of the fun) but then again you may get lucky. Hope this helps some.