hchris

Doing a complete brake job on a 29U, everything seized up. Have a puller for the rear hub, but how does the front hub come off ? is it just a matter of removal of front bearings and taking the hub off ?

FYI, think you'll find they suit 33 (CO) and 34 (CA & CB) Chrysler as well. Will watch with interest as I have 4 or 5 of them

Yep, been around for quite a while as suggested substitute for contemporary oil filters

Just wondering how many iterations the Chrysler name can last for ,)

Certainly sold in Australia, but cant see any definitive details on the brochure.

Sorry can't help sourcing a replacement but perhaps a weld job, even if a temporary measure. This topic however serves as a warning to all, how many of us have used the fan blade(s) as a lever to turn the engine over ? Sooner or later stress cracks will develop, the added vibration and centrifugal forces aren't helpful either, maybe time we all had a close look.

Could I suggest that you take all of the plugs out, disconnect the high tension lead, keep the throttle wide open, then carry out your compression test; this way you'll get a meaningful result. Typically a variation of about 10% between pressure readings is considered satisfactory. Based on your other info, pulling the engine would be way down my priority list, a miss at idle could well be ignition or fuel related and I would be working my way through them beforehand. If you find a significant drop in compression on a cylinder, perhaps move on to checking valve clearances as the next step; I'm sure others will chime in with wet and dry compression checks plus leakdowns etc. All well and good and appropriate in due course, but, do the simple stuff first.

Can't answer your question, but, asking another - is there a problem with the existing pump ?

Checked your valve clearances ?

Yeah the danger with too much advance is getting into the pinging zone.

Yep that'll do it, one more thing to consider when sourcing the drive gear, there were 2 different distributors used here and you've guessed it, they had different size gears

Just keep in mind if you're using the crank pulley timing marks, that the pulley has an inner rubber component (harmonic balancer), which goes soft with age resulting often with displaced timing marks, hence relying on timing marks can be problematic, additionally today's fuels are far removed from 1954, again the timing marks may not be as relevant as they were back then. I much prefer Grimys' method of vacuum timing if you can find a suitable source for vacuum. As Grimy says, start at warm idle and move the distributor until you reach the highest reading (usually 18 - 20 inches ) then move back about 2 nches and lock down the distributor. Go for a drive and listen for any pinging, if it doesn't ping you're good. One thing I'm curious about is that you say that as you retarded the distributor the revs kept rising, usually this is what happens as you advance the distributor, just wondering if you're turning the right direction ?

No

Fit dry

Definitely not F86, as stated F80 or T33.

Took me 3 days to shift my 34 Chrysler drums, same puller same advice as everyone else, patience is the key.

Difficult to pick missing under load, could be fuel or ignition. Given that you've been through the fuel system, it might be worthwhile looking at points/condenser/coil/plugs and wires. Pulling the plugs after a run when it's playing up might reveal something, are the plugs sooty? or pale? How about the points, are they black/burnt, correct gap ?

Ok, read the question again and realised the value was for crank over rather than running. I'm assuming we're measuring downstream of the throttle.

Hmmm sounds alright to me, what values are you thinking?

And what about the fuel supply from the tank ?

So what about fuel supply from the tank ? Have you done anything to check for blockage between the tank and pump ? Also I'm curious as to how you're verifying 8lb output and 2lb of vacuum, normally these pumps would only be putting out around 3 - 4psi, 8psi is well beyond the float needle capability.

1934 Chrysler CB Town Sedan, internal trunk accessed by folding down rear seat cushion.

Did you read the link in Carbkings response? that pretty much explains it in a nutshell, that's the item re fuel leak from throttle shaft, commonly known as heat soak. Also more often than not it leads to the other condition of hard starting when hot.

The fact that it starts after shutdown is more likely to be associated with heat soak than float level as the other guys have mentioned.

Plymouth 39/40 ?