nickg112

Over the years I have owned several Chevys from 51-54. I have noticed stamping of the VIN on the tag in the door frame varies somewhat. I see the following: ten numbers and letters in a straight row with no spaces (no photo attached) after the first letter, a small space followed by 9 numbers and letters (photo attached) after the 4th letter, a space and then 6 numbers (photo attached) I know what each number and letter decode is but that is not the problem or my question. Which one of the three above is correct? Or are they all correct? Could the difference just be in differences in the factory procedures? Photos below

I have a 1971 Mustang Mach 1. I purchased a new turn signal switch. It mounts under the steering wheel and has a harness that connects to a main harness at the end of the steering column. I broke an electrical connector pin in the harness at the bottom of the steering column in the connector. There are ten pins. I broke one male connector. Does anyone know where I can but this electrical pin connector? Thanks for any help.

I tested switch. I am sure that it is the motor. 41 is a unique design and no one seems to want to touch them. It is a late 41 motor. I have been told that early 41 motors are easier and have normal internals. Late 41s have a metal to metal seal. No gasket. Early 41s have a gasket. I would love to find an early 41 but do not have a part number and not sure how to identify without opening up. Currently my wiper will move to far position when switch is turned on. It stays in that position until switch is turned off. Then wiper goes to home position

Tried disconnecting exhaust manifold. It was worth a try but nothing changed. Still won't start. Car is timed properly, I have spark, good compression and fuel. I believe that the problem is cranking the car. It cranks hard. Engine was rebuilt years ago and sat for a long time. When I remove spark plugs it cranks easy. I believe everything is just tight. Thinking of a way to crank car for several minutes and put oil in cylinders. Do it for several days for a few minutes every day. I'll try towing in the spring if nothing else works and there is nothing else I can try. Looking for any ideas. Thank You

Thanks for the explanation Steven I am going to give it a try. Thanks Nick

I have a 1941 Ford that is stock. Everything works on the car except the wipers. My understanding is that the wipers (switch and motor) are a one year design. Ford changed the design after the war. The switch operates by vacuum and a vacuum line goes from the switch to the motor. I usually have motors rebuilt by "Wiperman" and have had good luck. He will not work on 41s because of the poor design. Electric wipers are not an option. There is no room because I have a heater and working radio. Has anyone run into this problem before? Do I have any other option?

Steven I will try that but am wondering why. What am I trying to show? Thanks

I checked compression before reading mikewest suggestion. I checked after I put a little oil in each cylinder, and I have 40 PSI. I will check in a few days without adding any oil and post results. At this point, I believe my compression is good, but I will check as suggested. I am totally lost. I have compression, fuel and spark at the right time. Even if I was off a little, I would think that there would be some type of firing. As many times as I have tried, I have never heard any sound or even a backfire.

The only thing I have not checked is compression. It feels like I have plenty but not sure. I should get my adapter in a few days. Once I check it I will post results. Thanks to all

In TDC Compression Coils all buzz with corresponding plugs

Thanks for all of the help, I guess I did not answer the question directly. Th.e car is at TDC. I verified today. I added a little 2 stroke gas in each cylinder. The car will not pop or sputter when cranked. Cranking seems very hard. I remove all plugs and the car cranks very easy. I am absolutely stuck on what to do next. I have rebuilt the carburetor and put in a new timer. Buzz boxes have been set with a tester/ setter that I purchased. I am using a new 12V lawn mower type battery

It doesn't even make an attempt to start. I did put the car in Neutral and put it on blocks. It does turn a little easier. I was thinking it could be fuel problem so I tried putting a little fuel in each cylinder. Still nothing. I previously tried a little oil in each cylinder. Nothing again. I really do not want to tow it. Thanks for any help

Well, I ordered a new Anderson Timer, cam seal, timing gauge, etc. I installed today. Same results. Will not start. I did find this interesting: I made sure that the number 1 piston was just starting the downstroke, made an adjustment on the 1/4 inch rod to fit properly at that point. I did a double check with the gage that I purchased. For some reason the gage would put the rod in a different position. So now I am not sure whether to use the gage or my initial adjustment. When you look at the photos, I made a black mark on the gauge where the rod would be located if I used the gage. That is a big difference. I have not made any progress and am unable to start the car. I do not get a sound, backfire or anything resembling a start. I did try jacking up the rear end. I prefer not to tow start.

I have a 1949 Dodge Coronet with a manual transmission. The shop manual says to use a SAE 10 W oil. I am assuming that they are talking about hydraulic oil but unsure. Can anyone tell me what works for this car?

I may have misspoke. I see commutators that looks similar but not exactly the same so I’m not sure which one to buy. Do I replace the cap as well as the rotor pin and retainer? Or do I adjust and clean? The parts look good to me. Three photos attached to show what I have.