nickg112

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About nickg112

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  • Birthday 09/01/1948

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  1. I am having problems with my front door locks. Not sure if my issue is the lock/tumbler or the latch assembly. Something broke with previous owner and I am not sure where the problem lies. I removed the latch mechanism and cleaned and oiled it. It is no longer jammed. I can rotate the mechanism with a screw driver on the bench. The actual lock mechanism will rotate 275 degrees or 3/4 of a turn. My lock/tumbler rotates 360 degrees or one full turn before key can be removed. Obviously the two are not compatible. Once everything is assembled, I cannot remove the key because the tumbler can only rotates 3/4 of a turn due to the limits on the lock mechanism. Can anyone tell me if their 1941 car if key rotation is 3/4 or 1 full turn to remove the key. I've called several parts suppliers without getting an answer. Thank you for any help
  2. I am attaching some photos to try to identify the parts that I found in my oil pan. I have a 47 Hudson Pickup with a 1954 engine. It is a 6 cylinder 308. I know little about the history. Engine seemed to be running good but my oil warning light went for the first time yesterday. I dropped the oil pan and it had ½ inch of sludge. I am cleaning the oil pan and pickup screen leading to the oil pump. At the bottom of the oil pan I found the two parts as shown in the photos. They are about .012 inch thick and seem to be made out of spring steel. Looks like I can see these same rings in other pistons when looking up from the oil pan. They are above the connecting rod and below the top of the piston. Looks like they fit in a groove. Are these some type of a retainer, wiper, scraper ring? Piston walls are not scored and the engine was not making noises. Any input is greatly appreciated. Not sure where to go from here. Thank you
  3. According to EMS Sheet metal, there are slight differences in the Pontiac. I have attached a couple of photos. All I know is this panel is exactly what I need. Thanks for the replies
  4. It looks close but hard for these guys to measure because of compound angles. I would think that if it was an exact fit, that they would say it was in their literature and advertising. I am hoping that someone out there can tell me that they have used a 52 Chevy quarter and it works. Thanks
  5. Does anyone know if the rear quarter is the same on a 1952 Pontiac and a 1952 Chevrolet? I have a 1952 Pontiac Chieftain 2 door hardtop and need a lower front rear quarter. See photos below
  6. Thanks for all the advice. I will try a detergent oil.
  7. I have a 1941 Lincoln V12 and a 1948 Lincoln V12. Manual recommends straight weight oil SAE 10W, 20W or 30W depending upon temperature. I am assuming that non detergent because detergent oil wasn't available at that time. Since both cars have an oil filter, can 10W/30W multi grade detergent oil be used?
  8. I love the older cars also. Everything is such a challenge. I appreciate your comment about documentation. Sometimes it is difficult to explain the problem and it takes time. If someone is going to going to help, they need to understand the problem. Everyone was very helpful. I learned a lot on this issue as well as the brakes. Thank you
  9. Yes I did change the lines. Did a complete brake job
  10. Thanks to everyone for all of the help. I think I have my problem is solved. These are the three things that I did: 1) Adjusted clutch lever to put just a small amount of tension. I had to adjust several times until everything seemed correct 2) I adjusted the large spring on the clutch pedal. As I turned the adjusting screw counter clockwise, the clutch pedal stopped sticking to the floor. Again, several adjustment, a little at a time before I corrected the problem. No tool available to check factory setting. At this point everything seemed good with clutch except reverse still had a grind issue. 3) I fixed reverse by lowering the RPMs to about 600 as suggested by keithb7. The explanation was great as I did not understand that the car running at fast idle would cause a problem with reverse gear. No grind at all now. My car came out of a museum and has not been driven for 40 years. I have replaced all of the brakes, cleaned fuel system and did a little electrical as well as changed all fluids. I will be changing plugs, points, wires, etc, next. Planning on detailing the car this weekend. Paint is all original and the car is rust free. I will post a few photos next week. I have only driven the car in the parking lot and while the clutch is working and I can shift into low, drive and reverse, I have not had the opportunity to drive the car on the road to check if Low 1st to 2nd or Drive 3rd to 4th works properly by lifting foot off accelerator pedal. Weather permitting, I will try this weekend. Thanks again for the help.
  11. Yes, it is matched up with an M6 auto transmission just as you described
  12. I have a 1952 Town and Country with a fluid drive and M6 transmission. It is not a torque fluid drive. It is just a fluid drive. The car has a 6 cylinder engine. It drives well when starting out in drive. There seems to be no issues as long as I stay in drive. I am doing the following adjustments and tests with the engine running but not driving the car. I am having trouble with getting the car in reverse or first gear (Low) without getting a loud grinding sound. I adjust the clutch with the thread adjustment on the clutch lever. I can adjust the clutch with the thread/lever adjustment so low gear does not grind when engaging but the clutch pedal sometimes will not release from the floor when pressed down. Reverse always grinds. regardless of setting. As I adjust by getting the lever to engage more, the clutch is harder to push but the clutch does will not completely disengage. I then cannot get the car to move in reverse. If I adjust the thread to less engage the clutch lever, The clutch pedal sticks to the floor, more grinding noise occurs but I can get the car to move in reverse. It now will also grind trying to go in first gear and the clutch pedal will stick to the floor. Unless I am missing something in my manual, There is no additional adjustment in the fluid drive unit. The manual talks about removing the transmission and fluid drive unit for a bench adjustment. I have changed the 10 weight oil (non detergent) in the trans and have not attempted to add oil directly to the fluid drive unit. It only takes about 3 pints total as the manual says. Is there a path for the 10 weight oil to go to the fluid drive unit from the transmission? Or do I need to add fluid to the fluid drive unit? Is there something else I can do before removing the trans and fluid drive? Thank you for any advice.
  13. I have a 1952 Town and Country. The fuel line that goes to the tank broke. The old fitting is jammed and I cannot get it out. I want to try drilling it out but want to have a new fitting before I start. Does anyone know where to get one of these fittings? My understanding is the flair is different from a common flair (double bubble). The 1st photo below shows the broken line on my car. The second photo labeled 53 tank is a photo I found on the internet. This is not my car but shows how the inside looks and where the flair seats. I believe the thread size is a 1/2 inch and is just a standard thread ( not a tapered pipe tap). That is why a flair seats on the bottom and the actual threads do not seal the fuel. The flair does the work. I tried an easy out on my tank and no luck on moving the fitting. I just added a 3rd photo. This is the part that I think I need. If I cannot get the correct fitting and flair, my next step is to cut the tank and weld a new fuel tank bung that will have a tapered pipe tap hole for sealing fuel. Any ideas or thought appreciated.
  14. Turns out that at some point I reversed the wires on the starter relay. These were the ignition wire and the voltage regulator. if you look at the attached schematic, I had them wired exactly as indicated. I discovered that these wires were wrong when I removed the relay. I sanded the case and saw words IGN and Arm and noticed that was not as indicated on schematic. I reversed the wires and it works fine now. The car starts. If you notice the schematic does not have ARM and IGN marked. I just had mine on the side indicated. It's all good now. Thanks for the help.