• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by nickg112

  1. Thanks for all the advice. I will try a detergent oil.
  2. I have a 1941 Lincoln V12 and a 1948 Lincoln V12. Manual recommends straight weight oil SAE 10W, 20W or 30W depending upon temperature. I am assuming that non detergent because detergent oil wasn't available at that time. Since both cars have an oil filter, can 10W/30W multi grade detergent oil be used?
  3. I love the older cars also. Everything is such a challenge. I appreciate your comment about documentation. Sometimes it is difficult to explain the problem and it takes time. If someone is going to going to help, they need to understand the problem. Everyone was very helpful. I learned a lot on this issue as well as the brakes. Thank you
  4. Yes I did change the lines. Did a complete brake job
  5. Thanks to everyone for all of the help. I think I have my problem is solved. These are the three things that I did: 1) Adjusted clutch lever to put just a small amount of tension. I had to adjust several times until everything seemed correct 2) I adjusted the large spring on the clutch pedal. As I turned the adjusting screw counter clockwise, the clutch pedal stopped sticking to the floor. Again, several adjustment, a little at a time before I corrected the problem. No tool available to check factory setting. At this point everything seemed good with clutch except reverse still had a grind issue. 3) I fixed reverse by lowering the RPMs to about 600 as suggested by keithb7. The explanation was great as I did not understand that the car running at fast idle would cause a problem with reverse gear. No grind at all now. My car came out of a museum and has not been driven for 40 years. I have replaced all of the brakes, cleaned fuel system and did a little electrical as well as changed all fluids. I will be changing plugs, points, wires, etc, next. Planning on detailing the car this weekend. Paint is all original and the car is rust free. I will post a few photos next week. I have only driven the car in the parking lot and while the clutch is working and I can shift into low, drive and reverse, I have not had the opportunity to drive the car on the road to check if Low 1st to 2nd or Drive 3rd to 4th works properly by lifting foot off accelerator pedal. Weather permitting, I will try this weekend. Thanks again for the help.
  6. Yes, it is matched up with an M6 auto transmission just as you described
  7. I have a 1952 Town and Country with a fluid drive and M6 transmission. It is not a torque fluid drive. It is just a fluid drive. The car has a 6 cylinder engine. It drives well when starting out in drive. There seems to be no issues as long as I stay in drive. I am doing the following adjustments and tests with the engine running but not driving the car. I am having trouble with getting the car in reverse or first gear (Low) without getting a loud grinding sound. I adjust the clutch with the thread adjustment on the clutch lever. I can adjust the clutch with the thread/lever adjustment so low gear does not grind when engaging but the clutch pedal sometimes will not release from the floor when pressed down. Reverse always grinds. regardless of setting. As I adjust by getting the lever to engage more, the clutch is harder to push but the clutch does will not completely disengage. I then cannot get the car to move in reverse. If I adjust the thread to less engage the clutch lever, The clutch pedal sticks to the floor, more grinding noise occurs but I can get the car to move in reverse. It now will also grind trying to go in first gear and the clutch pedal will stick to the floor. Unless I am missing something in my manual, There is no additional adjustment in the fluid drive unit. The manual talks about removing the transmission and fluid drive unit for a bench adjustment. I have changed the 10 weight oil (non detergent) in the trans and have not attempted to add oil directly to the fluid drive unit. It only takes about 3 pints total as the manual says. Is there a path for the 10 weight oil to go to the fluid drive unit from the transmission? Or do I need to add fluid to the fluid drive unit? Is there something else I can do before removing the trans and fluid drive? Thank you for any advice.
  8. I have a 1952 Town and Country. The fuel line that goes to the tank broke. The old fitting is jammed and I cannot get it out. I want to try drilling it out but want to have a new fitting before I start. Does anyone know where to get one of these fittings? My understanding is the flair is different from a common flair (double bubble). The 1st photo below shows the broken line on my car. The second photo labeled 53 tank is a photo I found on the internet. This is not my car but shows how the inside looks and where the flair seats. I believe the thread size is a 1/2 inch and is just a standard thread ( not a tapered pipe tap). That is why a flair seats on the bottom and the actual threads do not seal the fuel. The flair does the work. I tried an easy out on my tank and no luck on moving the fitting. I just added a 3rd photo. This is the part that I think I need. If I cannot get the correct fitting and flair, my next step is to cut the tank and weld a new fuel tank bung that will have a tapered pipe tap hole for sealing fuel. Any ideas or thought appreciated.
  9. Turns out that at some point I reversed the wires on the starter relay. These were the ignition wire and the voltage regulator. if you look at the attached schematic, I had them wired exactly as indicated. I discovered that these wires were wrong when I removed the relay. I sanded the case and saw words IGN and Arm and noticed that was not as indicated on schematic. I reversed the wires and it works fine now. The car starts. If you notice the schematic does not have ARM and IGN marked. I just had mine on the side indicated. It's all good now. Thanks for the help.
  10. A lot of great information. I will be working on the car this weekend. I will report back. Thank you so much
  11. I actually found one of these on ebay for a good price. It worked for a day but now I have an issue again. Starter does not crank. I know my starter and solenoid are both good. Not sure if it is the starter relay and that is why I wanted to test it. I like the idea of using a Ford relay but that has 2 small posts and 2 large posts. Not sure how I would wire that. When I look at the 52 Chrysler schematics, I do not see a ground on this starter relay. Does anyone know if the body should be grounded?
  12. I have a 1952 Chrysler Town and Country that I am having problems starting. The starter does not crank. The starter solenoid mounted on the starter is not getting power from the 6V starter relay. This relay is mounted on the driver side inner fender. The car has positive ground. I want to bench test starter relay to be certain this relay is not my issue. These starter relays are not available anymore. Part number is HRW 4001a. It has three small terminals and one large terminal. I have attached a photo. I want to make sure mine is working correctly and would like to bench test it. It has three small terminals as shown and these three terminals are wired as follows: Middle terminal has a wire that connects to the starter solenoid. I do not see any voltage going to the starter solenoid from this terminal when I turn the ignition key. The terminal to the right of the middle terminal has a wire that goes to the ignition. When I turn the ignition key, I see 6 volts going to this terminal on the relay. The terminal to the left of the middle terminal has a wire that goes to the voltage regulator. I do not see any voltage at this terminal The one large terminal has a few larger cables with one coming from the battery, and one goes to the starter. The large terminal on the starter is getting power. I have inspected the inside of the starter relay and everything looks good. Nothing looks burnt and I do not see any burnt wires. Any suggestions or advice would be helpful
  13. I have a 1965 Buick Skylark with a bad heater core. It leaks. Has anyone replaced one of these? Currently I have it bypassed but would love to replace it. Looks almost impossible to remove. Any advice is appreciated.
  14. I actually got mine working perfectly but thank you for the information
  15. Thank you for your article on the sequential turn signals. I have a question about my front turn signals. Two of three sequential turn signals lights working Front turn signals do not work Front running lights work Fender lights go on but do not blink I removed front turn signal lights and found one to be bad. Not sure about second because I broke it upon removal I tested the front turn signal sockets with a volt meter while the turn signal is turned on. Voltage varies from zero to less than one volt. Seems like voltage should vary from zero to 12. I am assuming that bulbs can be removed to check this. I have read the articles on the rear sequential lights and am working on that. I am more concerned on how the front turn signal lights work and what to look for. Absolutely hate the schematics in the owners manual. Wires are hard to follow after plug in terminals since wire colors change at that point Does anyone have any ideas on what to look for to get front turn signals working? Thank you Nick
  16. Thank you for the help. My glass is all there, just cracked. So I should be able to just measure each piece of glass. I thought one of the Model T Suppliers would have glass. Kind of surprised they do not. I will look for a local glass guy to cut what I need. Tempered glass I assume. I was not sure about using the same brass edging. I think that is relatively expensive so I am glad it can be reused. It looks relatively simple so once I get the glass, I will try to install myself. Didn't know if there was any tricks or issues I should be aware of. Thanks again.
  17. I have a 1913 Model T, C Cab with a split windshield. Both pieces of glass are broken. Can anyone guide me in the right direction on how this glass is replaced? What can be reused, how to remove and replace the glass, etc. Can the brass piece that goes around the glass edge be reused? Does anyone also have a good source for purchasing the glass?
  18. I finally fixed the problem. I replaced the shift rod bushings. That removed all slop in the linkage. It now shifts perfectly
  19. Thank you for the information. I have checked the play and it seems to be at a minimum. The shift lever will work for awhile but then hangs up as described. I still believe that the 4 inch dimension between the steering wheel and gearshift control shaft is the culprit but I am having problems setting that dimension as described. If I bring that dimension in as shown in figure four then the 1/8 inch clearance is off as shown in figure three. I am missing something in these instructions. It just does not make sense.
  20. My transmission linkage will hang up on occasion when shifting from 1st or reverse into second or third. When this happens, I can wiggle the linkage at the steering column to get it moving in and out of gear. My Chevrolet manual shows how to adjust. There is a "shifting box" mounted on the steering column where the transmission linkage is connected to. This is where the hang up occurs. As part of the adjustment procedure, there is a dimension of 3/32 to 1/8 inch shown in figure 3 of the gearshift lever image below. I am relatively close on that dimension. The dimension I am having trouble with is figure 4 of the steering wheel image below. Mine measures 4 inches. The way "To correct clearance is to loosen two gearshift control shaft and housing assembly clamp bolts and move housing assembly with upper and lower control shafts and gearshift lever up or down to obtain necessary clearance", according to the manual. I think they are talking about two bolts on the shift shaft that is located on the inside of the truck near the floor. Question: How can this move an inch when the gearshift lever has a screw holding it in place on the steering column? Has anyone done this and if so, please explain.
  21. I have a 1941 Lincoln Continental V12 that seems to need a linkage adjustment. It is jammed in 1st gear and I cannot release it. Looking through service manuals and all information that I have on the car and cannot find anything on this subject. Can anyone guide me in the right direction? Where can I find information on the subject. Thank you