Jump to content

Tom400CFI

Members
  • Content Count

    164
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

18 Good

About Tom400CFI

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 05/28/1971

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yes, please. I'll compensate you for the time to scan it...that seems like an arduous process! David, yes, I already have pages from the Breeze manual...thanks to you! It's been very helpful.
  2. Thanks for all the replies. They all help! David, thanks for the tips on the bearings and bores. I already "tested" the piston ring @ TDC by thoughtlessly ramming the piston all the way in to the bore....THEN thinking, "SOB....what if the top ring pops out into the combustion chamber?" Fortunately, that didn't happen (with this engine) and the piston came right on back out. Andrew; we have a spare cylinder(s) at my Mom's house in Maine. However, I'm going to try to weld/bore/surface the one that I have. First, doing so is much cheaper than I'd thought. Second, i
  3. ^Thanks for the reminder about the clutch. I'll have to get it shipped out here so that I have it. Couple questions: 1. How did Hupmobile make the rod bearings? Did they have a bronze insert with babbitt lining? Or was it just all babbitt poured in place? Or something else? 2. Were the mains poured in place? Or are they shells? 3. Finally, my crank needs to be turned. Should I turn it, or weld it up and turn it? I'm concerned about turning it and losing strength by making the pins smaller...
  4. Has anyone scanned an entire Model 20 manual? If so, could I buy the file from you?
  5. I agree^ When I rebuilt mine, I "set up" the ring and pinion with just the ring gear side of the rear axle housing, that side bearing and the tq tube w/the shaft/gear in place. This allowed me to set the pinion depth easily and be able to see what was going on in the process. That may be something that could help -remove the driver's side axle housing, then install the tq tube and operate it. You should be able to see what's causing any binding.
  6. Got the crank out. Guys...this is some serious race stuff here! 6" rods? Flat plane, forged crank? Raised dome pistons for higher compression? SICK! The following pics are just close ups of the journals, which don't look that great to me. I guess if I'm pouring new bearings, then the crank can be polised to whatever size, and the new bearing is custom fitted to that journal, whatever size it is. Here is the front main:Cylinder #1 rod journal....Cylinder #2 Rod journal:Center main:#3 rod journal:#4 rod journal. This is the one with the smashed out/missing bearing.
  7. The crank is supported in a very odd way in the Hupmobile; *There is a poured babbitt rear main bearing, in the rear of the crank case casting. *The center main is poured into a split casting, that is machined (round?) and fit rather loosely into a machined ID of the middle of the crank case. Then, two large studs pass all the way through the top of the case, the two split casting pieces and through the bottom of the case. Nuts on the top and bottom cinch it. I assume that you're deforming the crank case when you tighten them to "grab" the center main fixture? *The front main bearing is pou
  8. Made some progress...took some pics....They say that unhardened valve seats + unleaded gas = worn seat. Here....we have some pretty worn seats and sunken valves... Here is another pic of the "adjuster" that goes on the end of the valve stem. Look at the wear! The lifter pushes straight up on this thing....I can't believe how worn it is... Now this pic was intended to show a weird thing: all the valves aren't the same length. Note the heavy carbon build up on the valves. Where did that come from? Why isn't the gasoline keeping them clean? Here is one piston that is
  9. Yes, I saw it. I was totally "bought in"...until I did this: "I installed a Summit Racing fuel pressure regulator...I re-adjusted the FPR to 1.5 PSI and was unable to reproduce the problem, but the owner took it and it flooded on him -even though line pressure at the carb remained at 1.5 PSI. I don't think that the fuel will force past the needle/seat at only 1.5 lbs" That pretty well eliminates fuel expansion in the line between the pump and carb. At this point, I believe the fuel level in the carb is too high, and the bowl heat soaks after ~5 min, bubbles form, displace t
  10. I did. Thanks so much for that. I'll re-set the float and see how it runs. If it works, I'll ditch the regulator and try it again. It has an OEM fuel pump. I've resisted installing an electric b/c I don't believe the car should or does need one.
  11. O.K. If that is "the fact"...then could you define it a bit more clearly? What is the heat, soaking? And how is that pushing fuel out the discharge nozzles?
  12. Thanks for the good reply. No, I didn't just rebuild the carb. Customer brought it to me with this "new" complaint. I'm not sure how new the problem really is; he barely ever drives it and doesn't really pay a lot of attention to how the car behaves, so it's hard to get a good feel from the owner about what's really going on, and history. I installed a Summit Racing fuel pressure regulator, set it to 2.5 PSI and still, was able to reproduce the problem once. After shut down, pressure crept up to ~3.5 PSI or so, and the carb flooded the intake with fuel. I re-adjusted the FPR to 1.5 PSI
  13. 10-4. I'll look around. Already posted in the Ford section....zero response. 😅
  14. Yep, that method would work too. Good advice. Thanks. I have not confirmed the float level....I don't know the spec or measuring points for this carb.
×
×
  • Create New...