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About Tom400CFI

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  • Birthday 05/28/1971

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  1. I'm not sure why you're getting gasoline (vapor?) coming from the carb at WOT; it should be sucking it all in. But IMO when you get good throttle sensitivity at low throttle angles and none at high, then that means the that the throttle bore is too big for the rest of the engine. Since the manifold and ports seem large (larger than the throttle bore, and since the cam only opens the valves about a dinky .25" or so...lack of "cam" was my theory. More timing might help, but I worry about stress on the crank.
  2. Many have seen this car already. Been in the New England area and in the family since the '50's. 1910 Model 20;
  3. Our Hupp has the same behavior; the last 1/2 of the throttle doesn't really do anything. I think it's due to the incredibly inefficient carb design, the lack of valve lift (the valve is the limiting factor to intake flow)...or both. Ha ha ha....well, you noticed who the audience was over there! Glad someone you found the posts interesting. The tour was awesome.
  4. Found it on page 4... "For me, the LS4060 and it's respective races didn't fit over the shoulder of my clutch housing. I had to throw it in the lathe and cut that bit down, even with the rest of the shaft, then polish it. Came out sweet, and I'm confident that it will work really well.. WAY better than the bushing stack that originally resided there. I didn't have to replace the "behind the spring" ball thrust bearing, but I am also replacing the "throw-out bushing" with a needle thrust bearing too. In my case, I'm using a TRD-4458, which fits awesome, and I think it will work really well. Both bearings have 7000+ lbf ratings, and 7000+ RPM I think it's safe to say that they'll last a while in this application!"
  5. I thought I included part numbers of all the modern bearings that I used. I know I'm replying VERY late...Haven't been on this forum in a long time. I can go back and look, but I used the stock ball thrust bearing inside the clutch, and modern, roller thrust bearings for the throw out and the thrust between the clutch housing and crank case.
  6. Hi folks, Figured there would be interest in the Hupp forum...not sure if I should post in the "Tours and Meets" forum too? At any rate, here is a link to story and pics from the '19 NE Brass and Gas tour...which was totally awesome. Read on, look at nice pics, and enjoy!.... .
  7. I can attest to this....I was the one who put the straight sided tire onto that rim and it was a true M-F'er. No tire machine; I used one tire iron, a spoon and way too many F-bombs to get that thing on. Once on, it was such a tight fit on the rim that inflating it didn't move the bead out to the bead of the rim. Stuffing rope into the rim's clincher bead was fun too. No, putting a straight tire on a clincher rim is do-able (I only say that b/c I DID it)...but not a "solution", in my opinion. Another solution needs to be found. I would be talking to Coker tire too, but if a run of tires is needed now might be a good time for a group purchase.
  8. Looking for the measurements of the throttle bore size and flange bolt hole dimensions, if anyone knows. I have the dimensions listed in the Breeze manual, but it all seems to depend on the throttle bore size? I'm not sure. The Chart isn't all that clear.
  9. Same thing happened to our Hupp on a Brass and Gas tour.....about 40 years ago. I was a kid at the time. Car ran hard all day, the resin in the mag got hit and melted. It was fine as long as it was running....I guess. Shut it down that night. Next morning, my Dad flooded the carb, gave it his usual 'hit' on the crank, and boom...broke three teeth off that fiber gear. Tour over? HELL NO! My dad drilled three tiny drill bits into the gear, in place of each broken tooth, then broke the bits off at the right "height" of the teeth peaks. Using the bits as a frame, he mixed up epoxy and laid it in, building it up around the bits. After it cured (a few minutes) he hand filed the mass into the shape of gear teeth. Put the mag back on and off we went. I had forgotten all about that repair....but that repair is still in place, working today.
  10. Boy. I hear this! THe forum that I spend the most time on, the Corvette Forum, has a healthy does of this too. Sea Foam, Marvel Mystery Oil, If they sell a fix-it-in-a-can, someone on there has used it....and hasn't had any problems! That's not to say that certain items don't have their place...but most of the time the real problem isn't diagnosed, and the elixir was believed to have been the cure. I had a guy bring his '50 Ford. "It's always had vapor lock". "Always"...huh? "Proof" that it was vapor locking was that any time he'd climb a steep hill, it would get hot, and "Vapor lock". I see the correlation, but the "diagnosis" blinded the owner from ever finding the root problem (or even looking for it). I fixed the "vapor lock" problem by replacing the fuel line from the tank to the pump, to the carb, which had about 14 suspect joints in it that would allow the introduction of air into the fuel on the suction side of the pump. Car hasn't "vapor locked" (starved for fuel under load) since. You were right that the fuel line diameter isn't the only determining factor in fuel flow to the carb.
  11. O.K. So hot engine/air under hood...whatever, "causes vaporlock", right? How does adding heat transfer capacity to a pipe help cool the pipe, when in the same, too hot environment? Seems to me that cloth pins, tin foil and other alien deterrent devices would actually heat the pipe (and the gas inside) more quickly, rather than adding "cooling" fins.
  12. This stuff is voo-doo. Lore. Black "Magic". Stick to science. If the pins actually had the ability to "dissipate heat" (which they don't, being wood), then wouldn't they also then absorb the very same heat that is supposedly causing the "vapor lock" in the first place?? Yes, they would.
  13. Tom, Thanks for the compliments, and the fantastic history...I love that stuff. Good luck with the Buick!
  14. Cool! Great memory! I think you're right....this is the Hupp: