hchris

If I`ve got this right you have a pushrod that is 1" short of the rocker arm ? I would`nt be running the engine without further investigation, something missing somewhere & if so its`probably in the sump, could be you have also bent a pushrod which begs the question as to why 313royal

Bad earth somewhere in the brake light circuit Godd luck !!

1935

Hi Bill Not a lot of activity here but if you are successful I am interested I have a 1925 right hand drive that leaks everywhere !! Thanks Chris

Have you tried priming the cylinders with fuel? Cant remember if the 19 has priming cups, if not remove the plugs & tip a thimble of fuel into each cylinder refit the plugs & see if it fires, you have enough compression there to make it run. If it kicks over then its back to sorting out the carb. Chris H

Yes well that number seems to fit the pattern, still wonder about their alphabet being short on letters though. Re documentation thats another story; back then Chrysler relied on a loose alliance of dealers to bring in and distribute their product with their blessing no structured corporation existed down here as we know it today. The sad part is to find records now is almost impossible, our only real guide is motor registration records that exist in each state and all they tell us is the numbers of vehicles registered by make. My problem is compounded by the fact that both my specimens were sitting in paddocks for many years before I got to them so any history is long gone. ch

Thanks Bill, glad you added that last reply as I am in the Detroit range of numbers for CB which are stamped on right forward chassis rail, nothing at rear, engine number is on left front rail & repeated midway along left side rail. However I have remains of two CB`s which I am attempting to make into one and there is some contradiction of numbers between the the two, let me try & explain : No.1 has no engine nor Serial number tag, the chassis however is stamped with an engine number & what I presume is build number 6701292 plus a number 1753 immediately under it on right side. No.2 has Serial Number tag 6701242 on bulhead/firewall but absolutely nothing I can find on the chassis,have yet to have it sandblasted so something may yet be revealed. Any input out there ?

I didnt think to make the connection with engine number, but you are correct chassis and engine number are the same in my case. Now that I see other makes shared the same practice it still leaves me puzzled as to why Chrysler lumped all those identities together Thanks for your input. ch

Anyone shed some light on why my 34 CB Sedan Chassis is stamped CA24990 It is stamped on the front left chassis rail 6 inches back from the bumper mount & midway on the left chassis rail side approximately in line with the door pillar I am curious as to why the long wheelbase CB chassis is prefixed with CA short wheelbase serial

Probably a good buildup of carbon deposits in the combustion area is helping you to maintain a good compression ratio, nevertheless you are doing well ChrisH

And so aero engine manufacturers developed the supercharger to maintain sealevel engine performance as altitude increased and atmospheric pressure dropped off. What a wonderful world !! Chris H

What its all about is compressing atmospheric pressure, so 6.5 times 14.7 psi equals ........... There are other variables; normal operating temps, throttle wide open etc. but as a rule of thumb just multiply atmospheric pressure by the stated compression ratio and look out for any large ( 15 - 20 psi ) variations between cylinders. Looks like yours is tired but sound. Chris H

Definitely not a 34 Chrysler, the front guards were valance type for 34.Looking at the rear doors the bottom portion is relatively long so I would be going for the 120+ inch wheelbase. Screen & roofline look like 33 CO Chrysler but Grille & mascot seem more Plymouth 33, hood looks 33/34 Dodge. Noww you should be really confused !!

on ebay as we speak, i found them under 1934 chrysler search

Are you talking about the U clamp type which fits W/Screen frame ?

Does anyone know the history of how a handful of the 34 CB Chryslers finished up in Australia, with a production run of only 900 odd it seems strange they were exported all the way down here

Straight 8 has always been hard to cool at the back,some observations : 1.tubes typically corrode around valve seat areas & there`s not much alternative but make up a hook out of rod & pull it out in bits & pieces ( ensure it all comes out ) 2.have heard of drilling thru back of block in line with tube & extracting from both ends ( engine out of course ) then fitting freeze plug after 3.removing thermostat only adds to problem as coolant rushes thru radiator too quick not allowing heat dissipation 4.run an external hose from heater outlet at back of block & make T piece to connect with inlet side of water pump, straight 8`s are known to percolate / airate coolant at back of block

Hi Ken, I`m a new member & have a 25C Maxwell,would appreciate an email copy to: howoods@picknowl.com.au

just discovered a 30`s southwind heater without plumbing kit, are there any for sale ?