hchris

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Everything posted by hchris

  1. Aand of course what everyone keeps forgetting is the fuels today are light years away from that available when those cars were built. The issue of having a starting mixture that's vaporizing enough when it's cold will always be a problem, there's little relevance in what happened when "Dad" owned the car back in the day.
  2. hchris

    Timing Engine

    Have you considered just moving the plug wires to suit proper firing order, if as you say you're 180 out, just swap the wires from 1 to 4 etc. Reading your problem again, were you in fact at TDC #4 instead of TDC #1 when you viewed those timing marks, remember the cam turns at 1/2 crank speed
  3. The oil bath cleaner is not significant, the issue really centres around the throttle plate area, the laws of physics dictate that a venturi affect, small throttle opening, moist air and the chill effect of vaporising fuel create the ideal conditions for ice to form and build up around the throttle plate, this will only last as long as the combination of the above effects prevail. What changes these conditions is warmer air around the throttle plate as the engine itself warms up, a combination of manifold heat plus warmer under hood air entering the carb intake. You mention not being cold enough, the fact is that the temperature of the air will drop rapidly as it passes through the venturi (physics again) with a moisture (humidity) content carrying the necessary icing component, I reiterate that the ideal conditions are about 10 - 20 degrees ambient above freezing to 5 - 10 degrees below freezing, the humidity content is a major influence in this range In fact in the Arctic the problem isn't as bad simply because the air is dryer, certainly colder but dryer thus no moisture to freeze. So what to do; the easiest thing is introduce some warm air into the air cleaner intake. I have (a not very pretty) flexible duct with one end just above the exhaust manifold and the other pushed into the air cleaner nozzle. With an oil bath cleaner this isn't easy to do, but I have seen where someone drilled some holes in the upper out side of the casing and fashioned a fixture to accept a piece of flex duct to the side of the air cleaner, again not pretty. With this approach of course, you don't want it there when the weather warms up as the other laws of physics could lead to detonation with the intake of too much hot air. Finally, forgetting about the physics, just live with the problem and adapt your driving to accommodate it. In all of the above of course, your problem might not be icing at all !!
  4. Exactly what I was thinking , classic symptom. First few minutes of running causes a large chill factor across the throttle plate, due to low pressure and high velocities through the venturi, mix this with cold fuel, cool air and moisture you've created a perfect refrigeration effect. As the manifold and carb base warm up the symptoms disappear, modern fuels are part of the problem as they are more prone to this condition. If you are able; first start of the morning feel the carb base on and off for a minute or two, you will feel the chill as it happens, in severe cases you can actually see an ice ring form around the carb base on the outside. Without wanting to bang on too much, throttle ice is most likely to occur 10 to 15 degrees ambient above freezing point and is influenced by the moisture content in the air, any of you aviators reading this will know what I'm talking about.
  5. The fact remains that if you fit bearings that don't conform precisely to the crankshaft dimensions then you have every chance of damaging the crankshaft, and then you're back to where you started.
  6. hchris

    Vacuum tank problem

    Okay, but as stated above what about the valves and vents in the top housing?
  7. As Tom has said, the sensor to gauge is a sealed unit. If you break any of the connections the enclosed fluid will escape and it's really a specialist job to repair, or if you are an industrial chemist, avery tricky job.
  8. hchris

    Vacuum tank problem

    The critical areas for these tanks are the top housing, which usually develop cracks or warp and, the seating of the valves in the upper housing , along with the springs and fulcrum levers etc.
  9. Okay, having had the crankshaft reground would mean the bearings actually need to match the newly machined crankshaft pin dimensions. ie you're probably needing specific under size bearing shells. Using second hand bearings in this instance would undo the money you've just invested in the crankshaft.
  10. Depends on the clearances and existing wear patterns of shaft and bearings. If you're just putting together pieces that have been disassembled from the same location, not a problem, if you have part wornn bearings and crank pins that need just a light polish/linish, not a problem; beyond these parameters not such a good idea.
  11. Dammned if you do, dammned if you dont. It might come down to where you are living. In a cold climate it will certainly reduces the potential for throttle ice, in a hot climate it raises the potential for vaporizing; so perhaps it's the toss of a coin ?
  12. You realise this post is 3 years old ?
  13. hchris

    BLEEDING BRAKES

    Even a little grease on the threads of the bleed screw will help prevent air getting sucked back in.
  14. Brass, any metal supplier should have suitable sizes, might help a bit more if we knew your application.
  15. Worn throttle throttle shaft bushes will normally show up as a cause for weak mixture, can't see that as a cause for fast idle.
  16. Are you stuck on fast idle with the choke mechanism ?
  17. Just a thought, hows the timing ? Wonder if a few degrees of advance might help. have you ever set timing with a vacuum guage ? Beyond that maybe just bump the idle speed up a bit.
  18. Sure looks like it to me, have a look at the next post (correct finish) a good color photo of a 25 model.
  19. Valves would be at the top of my list, check clearances first looking for a tight one possibly not fully closing. Beyond that, maybe find a quiet spot and slowly hand turn the engine listening for a leak during compression at intake and exhaust, obviously a helper would be good. Alternatively make a fitting from an old spark plug connect it to a compressor, bring each cylinder up to TDC one at a time and put some air into each cylinder, again listening for leaks at intake and exhaust.
  20. Interesting how 5 years between them makes a bigg difference in appearance.
  21. My 1925 Maxwell, restored some 20years ago, painted rims silver, stained and sealed spokes, beento plenty of displays, haven't noticed anyone cringing as yet.
  22. Having rebuilt and installed the Auto clutch on my CB Chrysler, my recommendation to you is leave yours on the shelf. Perhaps you can take it down every so often, dust it, admire it, maybe even show it to your buddies as a conversation starter at you next BBQ, then put it back on the shelf where it belongs. 😉
  23. Yes and no, what started out as a splash lubrication system eventually morphed into a pressure lubrication system as engine revs and compression units increased, the crankshaft loads required more pressure as engines developed.
  24. Note that this topic originated in 2005 so not sure how much interest there is now. Nevertheless just to clear any misconceptions on the topic, there are two seperate units being discussed here, freewheel device and automatic clutch. Back in the day the freewheel device was very common around the early to mid 30s in the Chry/Plym/Dodge range, not so the auto clutch, this was generally seen as an extra option and probably less desirable. The auto clutch, as previously stated, worked with a vacuum unit attached to the clutch pedal linkage, it had a control cable operated from a dash mounted handle/button to enable the driver to connect/disconnect the function as required. When selected it would move the clutch pedal under the influence of manifold vacuum and an acceleration/deceleration pendulum valve. Form start you needed to depress the clutch, engage a gear lift the clutch pedal and get underway, once in motion each time you lifted your foot off the gas pedal the sudden increase in vacuum and deceleration would pull the clutch pedal down and you could shift gears, putting your foot back on the gas and subsequent drop in vacuum plus acceleration would bring the clutch pedal back up; so the overall operantion meant that you could do most of your driving without having to use the clutch pedal, almost but not quite, an automatic. The down side to all of this was, as previously mentioned, if you were decelerating with the intention of slowing down, or going downhill, then the vacuum action would pull the clutch in and you would lose the influence of engine compression braking, for this reason most drivers would disconnnect the unit permanently; when in use it was commonly referred to as being in Angel gear. The freewheel device was something else, built into the gearbox it was simply an over run unit that caused the gears to freewheel under negative engine torque loads, going downhill or with a light throttle load on the level; the engine would drop back to idle and the gears rotated as if in neutral, once again however this could be dangerous with the loss of engine braking. There was a control knob to disengage the device, however it seems most people left it engaged unless going down any reasonable sort of hill, leaving it engaged in normal use was common as it did work quite well as a fuel saver.
  25. Yes, removing the thermostat in itself is not a fix but will be interesting to see if it makes a difference. Whilst you have it out put in a pot of water and heat up to see how far it opens. If you suspect a "fit" issue then that definitely needsto be sorted.