hchris

You need to use a vac source direct from the manifold, taking a vac line off the carb wont do it for you as the vac source is usually plumbed in above the throttle plate. Alternative sources like the brake booster port or PCV manifold connector are fine ie any port that taps straight into the inlet manifold can be used.(make sure you have an airtight connection) The benefit of vac tuning is that you get to see when the engine is running at best, as opposed to manufacturers figures, which are a good starting point but dont make allowances for todays fuels, engine wear etc. all of which can affect engine performance. And as Rivman says, when you get to the highest vac reading back off an inch or so of manifold pressure before locking everything in place, this avoids potential pinging.

Simple check, hook another battery up see if it makes a difference.

Whilst I wouldnt question your reasoning on the necessity of a vac amplifier, in the real world a long hill or even a strong headwind at large throttle openings, is a not uncommon reason for a vac tank not being able to keep up with engine demands. Most of us would probably never encounter this problem as the majority of our motoring is at city speeds on the straight and level; commercial vehicles were a different matter with loads and distances significantly greater often requiring the fitment of a booster.

Correct, I was over simpliying things in an attempt to highlight that the cylinders were step bored, there is in fact a whole lot more to the science of this feature but I didnt think it was relevant to the topic. Mea Culpa.

The shaft end gear needs an awful big press to push the gear off, in my case it took 7 tons of pressure to get the old bush out.

Been down this road recently with my 34 CB Chrysler, the only viable option was a resleeve. Thing to note however, as well as the mount plate spacing problem, the rear cylinders are step bored ie smaller at one end of the cylinder than the other, Chrysler`s logic to rear lockup prevention (would`nt be surprised if yours were the same) Our brake guru machinist advised that the amount of difference this would make in a slam stop would be insignificant, hence they were resleeved parallel and so far all is well. I too get annoyed when you ask a question and don`t get an answer, but you do get a heap of off topic advice.

As well as the above, look for The Standard Catalogue of Chrysler by Krause Publications.

Looks to me like the vac mechanism is causing a ground of the primary wire when it moves the plate.

As to finding the timing marks, can you access the front of the flywheel via a splash cover at the bottom of the bell housing ? or perhaps remove the starter motor for a better view, this would at least allow you to mark them for better visibility. Of course this wouldnt solve the problem if the flywheel has been fitted incorrectly. Which means you are left with how to verify the timing, painful as it may seem I would be removing the valve cover/s and slowly turning the engine by hand (two pairs of hands might be better) to get #1 at tdc, verifiable by watching #6 valves as they begin to rock, ie at the point where #6 inlet just begins to open and #6 exhaust is closing you would be at tdc #1 within a degre or two. At this point you should hopefully see the distributor rotor pointing to #1 ignition lead and the points just opening, you might also chalk a mark on the crank pulley to help bettter with tuning or further fault finding. In all of this if it sounds like I'm telling you how to suck eggs, then ignore the above.?

Ok, so if the distributor is suspect try a vac guage as Ben suggested; you are aiming for a steady 18 - 20 inches at idle to start with, move the distributor back or forth to achieve this. If you can get a steady idle reading then take the revs up and down and watch for steady vac changes, hesitation or erratic readings will need investigating, plenty of good info for deciphering faults on the net. I find the vac guage a far more useful tool in tuning than religious adherance to timing marks etc. with changes in fuel and so on, the original settings aren't necessarily the best for our engines anymore.

I'm thinking if you burn a lot of oil the plugs will be fouled, or at least have a lot of carbon on them. Try putting a catch can over the breather / draft tube and see what shows up.

Dave has given an accurate picture of distributor functions, but, just wondering why you have focused on the distributor as the cause of rough running ?

The clicking noise just prior to stalling could well be the generator control relay dropping in and out as the revs fall off, from memory this is mounted on the engine bay bulkhead which acts as a sound board. Popping through the manifold and lack of compression in #6 would probably be a burnt valve, you could get lucky with adjustment. Sounds like you need a copy of the wiring system for the electrical stuff, cars of this era aren't all that complicated, get a copy and blow it up and trace the various circuits. Some of your symptoms sound like poor earthing, the dip switch probably has some crusty or loose connections. Gas guage coulld just be bad earth on the sender unit at the tank, or pull it and clean the wiper arm.

Just wondering why you didnt compression test #5 ? Ok misread your original post, so as suggested have you swapped the offending lead, had a good look at the distributor cap ?

Yes, brake shoe adjustment is paramount with these brakes, absolutely hopeless if you haven't gone through the correct procedure to set the clearances. Dont know how many times I've seen postings starting with "cant get a pedal".

Its been a work in progress for many years, not sure what the end result will be. It's actually a CB, the longer wheel base version of the CA, also I'm living downunder so it's RHD and there's a number of differences including, you might notice, the exhaust manifold which has to fit around the steering column.

Certainly start with the previous information, as 90 years on most of the worm gears are well and truly worn out. Drag links and idler arm have spring loaded ball and cup arrangements at each end, and generally they are badly worn giving lots of free play, so best to start first with the box and work out towards the ends.

Have a look at my response to your buy / sell request

Up to 1934 Chrysler (assuming this is what you are looking at) used what is known as a "partial water jacket" block which is quite different to the 39 "C22" shown in the photo, significantly the exhaust manifolds were very different, as the down pipe came from the middle of the manifold as opposed to the rear of manifold as on the "C22". The variation between the blocks makes for different engine mounts, bell housing / transmission mounts, starter motor, amongst other things. You can play mix and match, but, if you are looking to install a later engine into 34 or earlier Chrysler products its not a straightforward job.

Have you looked on the outer face of the left front chassis rail in the vicinity of the spring hangars, often the serial (vin) number was stamped into the chassis, I have also seen them on some models further back on the chassis adjacent the cowl area.

Can I just elaborate on the relationship of oil vac pumps with regards to oil pressure and gas, I think some people may have the wrong end of the stick. When you have a vacuum tank with the oil pump being the vacuum source, as opposed to manifold pressure, there is the probability that losing oil pressure will also mean losing vacuum. If you lose vacuum then you lose the ability to draw fuel from the tank, eventually the vac tank will run dry and consequently the engine will quit, how long this will take is debatable. So in essence, the amount of oil pressure is not influenced in any way by the vac tank, unless of course you have the situation of fuel contaminating the oil.

Nevertheless if the points are closed it will get hot.

Most any coil will get hot after that time, particularly if the distributor points are closed, not a good practice to be doing this. ? In short, you have the battery current flowing through the coil direct to earth and the coil will heat up just like the old bar type electric radiators.

Thanks, yes more than familiar with bearings wear, tear materials etc. My original response was, what to do when a tapered surface is worn beyond the ability for a tapered surface seal (be it modern or otherwise) to do the job. As others have suggested, turning the surface to a parallel profile or welding said surface and re machining seem to be the only viable alternatives.

So you know of a source for a sleeve to fit a tapered surface ??