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Everything posted by hchris

  1. Hmm, anyone have a copy that can scan relevant pages ?
  2. Yes the vacuum force is all about throttle position, the more you open the throttle the less vacuum you have, so there is a contradiction here in engine efficiency with these systems, the amount of fuel you have stored in the vac tank gets less and less the wider you open the throttle. Giving it more gas to get up the hill will only make matters worse.
  3. Yes and thanks, much of the input of this particular topic was mine, based on my own experiences, and that`s all, no reference material at all. But I was looking to find something a little more formal in terms of literature, illustrations settings etc. in the hope that I could put together an article based on fact rather than our random fixes.
  4. Well it seems the move to change vacuum source from manifold to oil pump came fairly late in the evolution of vac units, so I can only guess this was a means of overcoming loss of vacuum with large throttle opening. It wasn't much later that mechanical fuel pumps became the norm and the problem disappeared.
  5. All quiet here so I assume everything is fine, still scratching my head re the unidentified "yellow" port in an earlier thread and then I came across these items, courtesy of the Dodge Brothers newsletter some years back (a gold mine of information for Dodge owners). So its purpose in life is to increase the vacuum force (booster). This enables a greater pulling power for fuel from the rear tank and is particularly helpful for high throttle openings when going uphill etc. which reduces the risk of running out of fuel in the reservoir under such conditions.
  6. Does any one have any reliable info, illustrations, data etc. on Kingston vac units, I can find all the information in the world for Stewart units, but there appears to be a huge vacuum (pun intended) on Kingston material. Thanks in advance.
  7. Absolutey yes to a regulator, typically a vac system relied on 0.5 to 1.0 psi head of pressureto the carb, any more than that and you risk flooding as the float struggles to hold against the excess in pressure.
  8. Well done, your perseverance paid off and you have given others a unique insight into the black art of vacuum tanks. Now go find a big hill and see if you can make it to the top without running out of gas, if you can achieve that go home sit down and have a beer or two. ??
  9. Yes it would appear to be a metered orifice serving as a vent, might be worth taking out the blank. i agree, trial and error to get the floats in the right spot is probably the answer, obviously someone else has had a fiddle with these in the past
  10. OK, having read your most recent post it would appear that the inner tank is not dumping and the reservoir is flooding to the point that fuel is being sucked back through the manifold line. If the inner tank cant dump it will continue to fill until the fuel level reaches the top of that stand pipe, in the inner tank, then spill over into the reservoir, at some point if the inner tank level keeps rising it will be drawn back into the manifold through the suction line. The outer tank (reservoir) must be open to atmosphere, thats why the filler port is in the top of it, th
  11. My first thoughts are the carb float/needle mechanism are not shutting off and the carb is flooding, if so this would give you the fouled plugs so i would hold off buying new ones. Possibly this is linked to the fiddling with the vac tank, perhaps now that its working more efficiently you might have a greater head of fuel in the tank, or the flapper valve is not opening and flooding the reservoir. Remove the inner tank and see how much fuel is in the reservoir, I would expect there should only be an inch or two of fuel inside if things are working properly.
  12. Sadly there does`nt appear to be many illustrations of the Kingston unit, nevertheless excellent presentation on this one.
  13. Yeah I have to agree that the floats look pretty ordinary and perhaps they don`t have enough lift/weight to hold the flapper shut tight, worth a try to add a small weight and see if it makes a difference. One other thought I had, is it possible the corks are slipping on the shaft rather than lifting it ??
  14. There was that reasoning of constant vacuum with the oil pump source, as to why others relied on manifold vacuum I don,t know but certainly this method was the most popular. Was there the potential to dilute the oil with fuel if a malfunction occurred ? I don`t know.
  15. The outer tank is not subjected to vacuum at any time, it simply serves as a reservoir for the inner tank to dump into. This is quite different to the Stewart design where the whole of the container is subject to vacuum and needs to be perfectly sealed to function. The Kingston has an inner tank and this is the only area subject to vacuum and only when the flapper valve is closed. The vac line (from manifold or oil pump depending on make) is connected directly to the inner tank and causes fuel to be drawn in, under vacuum whilst the flapper is closed. As the fuel level rises in the
  16. No, definitely no gasket between the two flapper faces. I would be inclined to put it back together, refit and test drive, see how you go. Put some fuel in the outer tank first, just to get the engine running, and then see whether it can keep up
  17. Well done and an excellent portrayal of what I was trying to describe. Its crucial that the flapper valve seals as you can see, without proper sealing you will have neither vacuum action or fuel input. Even a minor leak at the valve will cause fuel in the inner tank to be depleted faster than vacuum action can replace it, which would explain that whilst it may idle well, take it out on the road and the demands will outstrip supply, and of course once the engine stops so does the vacuum. So from what I am seeing your problem is somewhere in that valve/linkage mechanism,
  18. Oh and by the way its a Kingston brand vac pump that you have, not Stewart Warner, hence the difference in construction of the internals.
  19. Yes the float is cork. Have you removed the inner tank and filled it as I explained, will it hold fuel until the float rises and opens the flapper valve ?
  20. Not sure that I`m seeing all of the video, seems that your sound is not syncing with pictures, you`re mentioning springs and levers that I`m not seeing. Nevertheless, the inner tank that you removed needs to be dismantled further, inside is a float/lever mechanism that opens and shuts the little flapper valve at the bottom. A couple of critical items with these bits are 1) the flapper valve must seal properly on its seat, if there are blemishes or marks on the mating surfaces it wont seal and that inner container will not hold fuel like its supposed to, if you have any
  21. hchris

    How fast?

    All things being equal, with due attention to details already mentioned, my own experience with a CF8 is that 50mph is quite comfortable on the open road. As to front end shimmy, almost invariably it's the wedges under the front springs that set the castor which are the main culprits, ever had a shopping trolley go rogue on you? ?
  22. Fouled plugs are usually a good indicator of over rich mixture, black and sooty is the indication, wet and oily will indicate oil leakage. As others have said bubbling at the plugs suggests wrong plugs, lack of plug gaskets, not enough plug torque. As to over rich mixture, assuming the choke isn't stuck closed, I would be looking at : incorrect mixture screw adjustment worn float valve needle or seat wrong float height / sinking float.
  23. Not being familiar with the Zephyr I would nevertheless be cautious about blanking off any draft tube orifice. Most vehicles in this era had a draft inlet thru the oil filler cap and a draft tube exit from the rocker cover or side plate on the block, blanking off any of these ports will lead to over pressurisation within the crank case / block and thus the internal blow by pressures will seek an outlet, more often than not back thru the filler worse via the crank shaft seals. It might be worth a bit more research before applying any blanks, or at the very least keep an
  24. Yes indeed, very nice 1933 DP and i believe "Town Sedan" is correct for this body style.
  25. If there is no significant reason for you to remove bearings I would be leaving everything intact; on the other hand if you have deep knocking noises or low oil pressure then the advice as offered by others is good. You just never know what may arise after disturbing things unnecessarily.
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