hchris

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Everything posted by hchris

  1. Yes, please don`t second guess the brakes, do the lot. You will need a special hub puller to get the rear brake drums off, search this forum for further info if you`re not familiar with them, there are plenty of posts on this topic.
  2. Not wanting to rain on your parade, but I noticed the mention of a honeycomb radiator. If its original, you may experience overheating next summer as they are almost impossible to clean out, perhaps now that its running you may want to get the engine up to temp and see if it remains cool. Better to check it out now than be stuck somewhere in the heat of summer. Lovely find by the way, envy overload
  3. Definitely passing through the mechanical pump Diaphragm; fuel in sump is a classic symptom of failed fuel pump diaphragm.
  4. Cant quite work out what it is you are trying to achieve ?
  5. OK add Plymouth U & Q to your search list, pretty sure the 28 - 30 Plymouths used the same distributor.
  6. For the past 30 years I have been on rain water for my early Mopars, no problems yet. Of course I live in a relatively warm climate so wouldnt recommend just water if you live in the freeze zones.
  7. Next to nothing is interchangeable, two different ends of the market when these were sold, Plymouth being the cheapest and Chrysler the dearest. As mentioned Plymouth is very basic 4 cylinder, Chrysler up market 6 cylinder.
  8. 30 hot is fine, as a general rule for older cars, 10psi per 1000 revs is the bench mark when at normal operating temps. 60 cold would seem to be on the high side, what grade oil are you using ?
  9. You don't say what year your engine is, post 1935/6 most of the Mopar engines introduced a distribution cooling tube behind the water pump which were designed to enhance coolant flow around the valve seats, they are notorious for corroding out with resultant lack of cooling in this area of the block Compressions look reasonable (I`m assuming this is an older engine), if you had a leak between cylinders I would expect a larger variation in compression figures. At what stage are you assessing the plugs - idling in the driveway ? after a lengthy run ? Describe "wettish / foul" - are you talking oily wet or coolant wet ? Can you determine the flow volume with the radiator cap off ? Is the ignition timing correct ?
  10. Sorry, if you go down that road prepare yourself for a lot of frustrating work, ask me how I know.
  11. Don't you have a manual adv/ret control on your distributor ? this should be holding the timing at a fixed setting dependent on where you set the arm on the steering wheel.
  12. Not many; because these were the last of the exposed water jacket engines, you need pre 33 / 34 Dodge/Plym/Des/Chry engines otherwise you will be messing around with clutch housing / starter mounting and then trans cross members and so on. Essentially your engine, because of the rear block water jacket configuration, has the starter motor mounted close in to the block, so if you try a later flat sided engine (full water jacket) you will have to use a matching clutch housing which then means different gear box and mountings. etc.
  13. hchris

    1930 Roadster

    Again - do you have spark at the points ??
  14. hchris

    1930 Roadster

    With points closed and ignition turned on, using a fine screwdriver, lever the point open and closed; do you have a spark at the points ??
  15. There was a guy somewhere around the Meadows area (Wayne Hocking was his name) who welded a steel band, from large diameter steel tube, onto the exterior of the drum and and then machined back to original dimensions. Don't know if he`s still at it but worth tracking him down perhaps. Another person is Graham Goode in Clare who has a restoration business, I think he was a customer of Hocking. Chris H
  16. Not forgetting that vac tanks are reliant on vacuum, their big downfall on long or uphill gradients are the lack of vacuum with large throttle openings associated with driving uphill, some manufacturers provided larger capacity vac tanks to increase the storage capacity to diminish the problem. And yes, any updraft carb designed with vac tank feed will struggle with pressures above 1.5 psi.
  17. From what I can see from your photos, that engine doesn't look too bad, unless you gave it a good scrub up prior to the photos. With 70 psi on the other cylinders I wouldnt get too excited about the valves, they are obviously doing an ok job of sealing and yes you may have a tired engine, but I would first concentrate on the head and gasket. As to other things; the scratch in the bore - can you feel a groove or scratch by running a finger nail across it, as a general rule if your nail doesn't snag on it then its not too bad. Is it an oil burner ? are the plugs fouled ? is there any audible knocking from the engine whilst running ? if you get past these items I wouldn't go throwing a lot of money at this engine, they are pretty bullet proof, but head cracks are a common feature. Check the head for cracks, machine a few thou to get it flat and put a new gasket in, then see how it goes,not a lot of time or money to invest.
  18. "Iron bar" sounds to me very much like a hose collapsed on the inside.
  19. And if its of any further help - don't think this has been specified yet - stop the engine by turning off the vac tank tap and letting the carb run dry, switch the ignition off after the engine has stopped. As to flooding, prime suspect would be the needle/seat float mechanism, the engine will flood and continue to do so whilst the vac tank tap is open, there is nowhere else for the fuel to go, heed Jon`s warning !!
  20. Replacing the water tube is not for the faint hearted, unless you have good reason to suspect its bad then leave it alone. If you suspect its bad let us know your reasoning before ripping into it, you could save yourself a lot of grief.
  21. As others have said very smooth and silent running, complicated mechanically if you want to rebuild; but as Rusty says - big time smokers. The #1 draw back with this beautiful piece of machinery is keeping the oil inside; with conventional push rod / valved engines, when they smoke you can often get away with a quick repair to valve guides or seals, not so with sleeve valve engines, a complete strip down is required and I doubt now that there would be many machine shops left with the knowledge on how to go about repairing them. And going slightly off topic, the Brits used this technology in a lot of their radial engine aircraft; many of these aircraft had endurance ranges limited not by their fuel carrying capacity but instead by their oil carrying capacity.