Bill Stewart

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  1. Easiest way to get gas in car that's been sitting-----hardware stores have small squeezable transparent oilers with thin retractable tube/spout. Safe and easy to squirt in "sight screw".
  2. I had to remove radiator for repair, giving me a chance to examine timing chain and gear. They appear as new. Oil slinger was in place. Damper also looked fine but who knows whether it's doing it's job? Sending it in for a "redo" seems like cheap insurance. Shaft and damper are not worn and there is no indication that the shaft has ever spun in the damper. A new, slightly snugger key should be fitted. Damper slips on easily but snug. So----Judging from the helpful comments by responders above, I think I may need only a spacer thick enough to cause the bolt/washer to bear on the damper instead of the end of the crank. Make sense? I still don't understand the tiny shim in the curved key slot. It suggests an attention to detail that I haven't seen anywhere else on the car. Any thoughts from anyone, please?
  3. Also found tiny curved shim in bottom of key slot. not familiar with that. why? Doesn't seem to have any real effect. Any info on that?
  4. Before removing my harmonic balancer (36 Roadmaster) I noticed that it was free to rotate slightly on the crankshaft even though the bolt was fully tightened. (checked that at 110 lbs). Obviously the key was not a perfect fit, but I also expected the bolt and washer to tighten on the balancer, not on the end of the crank. Does the key do all the work involving rotation and the bolt/washer just keeps the balancer on the shaft? Should I add a thin washer either behind or in front of the balancer that would result in compression on the balancer instead of the end of the shaft? Any info would be much appreciated.
  5. Thank you very much. Even though few, if any of us, are likely to dismantle or fix these things ourselves, I've been curious----thanks again.
  6. I recently sent the harmonic balancer for my 36 Roadmaster in for "restoration". I believe that means removing the original parts (springs, weights, and ?) to be replaced with silicone. I'd like to see what an original 36 balancer looks like inside and I'd like to know how silicone can substitute for the original parts. I have been able to find pictures of newer ones that didn't really show the interior. Any chance somebody has a picture? Seems like there is quite a variety of these things so a 36 or close would be much appreciated.Thanks.
  7. i don't get it. I understand that the hot block and head raises the rocker shaft and opens the lash. But the pushrods also expand, but to a lesser degree because the oil is not as hot as the water. OK. So the hot water accounts for a lot of increase in lash, but a small amount of expansion in the pushrods should make up for some of that. (any increase in pushrod length would decrease lash). Right? Seems to me that we ought to know how to adjust valves at room temperature (no warm-ups, just room temp) that becomes the proper gap at normal operating temperature. I was not able to manage adjustment while running. I ended up adjusting for .017 cold, and then after a run (probably not highway hot) they were .014 to.016) They are a little noisy so I may revisit. Thoughts anybody? i
  8. Paul, Just noticed your post about the rear shelf fabric. I have two originals that I can look at closely in a couple days. Superficially, I know it looks like cotton flannel.
  9. Matt, I realize that i'm resurrecting an old entry but this one of yours is the closest to my problem that i have found. I was removing the needle on a 1936 speedometer when I got a little too aggressive and broke the spindle. I read your pdf article but it does not deal with spindle replacement. I had intended to only clean and carefully lube the speedometer. Dismantling the number wheels, etc. looks like a serious opportunity for me to get in trouble. How hard is it to replace the spindle? I enjoy working on small detail repair and tend to resist sending stuff out for repair but maybe that's the smart way to go this time. Any suggestions? Anyone?
  10. The 36 shop manual shows the entire mechanism and its adjustment in great detail. Being quite new at all this, I would not have been able to do decent (mostly) work on my 36 without the shop manual. You will be happy if you get one. Reprints are available but illustration quality is MUCH better in the originals and sometimes necessary for a full understanding. Good luck. Kinda complicated. Many have been replaced with a button under the dash.
  11. Bobs Automobilia and CARS no longer have the engine paint. Hirsch warned about possible slow delivery and I got impatient so I took a color sample to Ace Hardware. They mixed a perfect match using a paint they order for a local company that uses it on their shop machines. Smallest quantity is a quart. I had them put some in a rattle can. Works great. Obviously I don't know about it's longtime durability. If anyone is interested I can get Ace's product #'s. Added product info-----The stuff is Benjamin Moore SUPER SPEC H.P., Ultra base P22-4B. It is a urethane alkyd gloss enamel. Part of the info on the can says "This rust preventive coating"---and---"metal doors, machinery, piping, storage tanks and equipment"--.
  12. Thanks everybody. Working properly is more important than looking right, so going with the McMaster- Carr washers makes great sense. Somewhere on this forum I read that Fastenal can order something more like the real thing. I will check with them Mon. a.m.
  13. i see this is quite an old post but----has anybody located belleville washers more like the originals? Several people have referred to the ones available from McMaster-Carr but they are much thinner and don't look like the originals. The old ones are thicker and on the crude side. Don't look flexible to me but apparently they worked. The car i'm working on came to me with bolts and flat washers. Maybe that sort of thing accounts for some of the cracked manifolds out there.
  14. I found a Rust-Oleum product that matches the heater color exactly. It works perfectly for touch-up. It does not cover black wrinkle to my satisfaction. The paint is "Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover paint and primer". London Gray (really) satin. product#249857 The Kennedy paint mentioned above by Larry Schramm is the way to go when starting from scratch (bare metal).
  15. Greg, I think the picture of my heater that I emailed you was probably not helpful for you. I am not knowledgeable about 1935 heaters. You may want to consider starting a new topic with your questions.