Bill Stewart

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  1. Pete, thanks for responding. (I assume that's your 36 coupe.It looks great!) On my original car, the main body of the dash that is not woodgrained seems to be a lighter color than the black outside body color. The instrument cluster, glove box door and all window garnish appears to have that same lighter black for the base color before being woodgrained. Perhaps I'm being mislead by the many years of fading. This is not exactly an earthshaking issue. It will come out close enough. It won't be pink or tiger striped. If you have a close-up of your instrument panel, any chance you could post that? Thanks again. Bill
  2. Somebody out there must know whether the base color (before graining) of 1936 garnish molding should be a saturated black or something softer looking, more like slate. It can be hard to describe that kind of thing but I hope somebody will give it a shot.The graining ink color seems to be a medium gray. Any guidance will be appreciated.
  3. My "new" 36 Roadmaster has garnish molding that has been painted very shiny very black like the outside of the car. I intend to apply the appropriate gray woodgrain pattern. I have original garnish samples from another car, but, of course, they have changed a lot over the years. The black seems much softer, more of a slate color. I can hardly believe that it was originally brilliant black. Any thoughts?
  4. My 36 Roadmaster has an intake manifold that is obviously not a 36. The part # on the casting is 1287841. My Master Parts List covering 1928 thru 1946 does not show that number for any year. It does show #1399778 for 1936. Anybody know what I've got?
  5. Carl, Thank you much for your great ideas. Who knew about accumulators!? I'll be reading. I'm a great fan of Amsoil. My car is a 1936 Roadmaster which is in heated workshop in Michigan's long winter. I'll be contacting you directly. thanks, Bill
  6. To most of you---I do take your point. It's likely that most of our cars will not be driven enough to justify the bother or expense. And as Ben notes, we won't be here either. The preluber idea was more of a last little detail, something that feels good. I don't plant fruit trees for myself anymore but I might for other people. I do buy green bananas. Bill PS Morgan, I'm older than my 36.
  7. Many or most of our engines DO have pressure lubrication to bearing surfaces and they have flat pushrod ends and valves. The good feature of prelubers is that they pump oil everywhere in the lube system before any part starts to move. At least one manufacturer of prelubers suggests that as much as half of engine wear may occur in the first few seconds after startup ---(a self serving opinion, I am sure). Seems like it would be nice to guarantee good lubing without removing plugs or setting up to crank engine without starting it. I've never had any "lubrication problems" either, but it does seem easy to flip a switch for a few seconds before starting just in case it may really matter. I think I'm sorry I brought his up.
  8. Many of our engines stand for months between startups. Concerns are often expressed about oil that may be too heavy when cold or that simply take too long to reach critical places in the engine when first started. I have not seen mention of prelubers anywhere on this Forum as an answer to dry startups. I have been told that they are fairly common on diesel truck engines. I had one on a diesel auxiliary sailboat engine. In about 30 seconds oil pressure was raised to normal operating pressure before touching the starter. Gave me a good feeling. No clatter at startup and a nice mental picture of oil on every critical bearing surface! I realize that there is a lot more pressure and stress in a diesel----but still?
  9. Wonderfully clear and detailed responses. Thank you very much!
  10. I recently acquired a 36 Roadmaster that spent the last about 35 years in a museum and in very inactive storage. One spring shackle was an old fabricated replacement that immediately fell off the car. It is clear that the side pieces had been twisting on the pin, chewing up the ends. None of the pins will accept grease and all are seized in place. It would be nice if the pins were just straight instead of being threaded in the sleeves and expected to turn! I have soaked them in penetrating "rust buster" stuff, tried to twist them (not too hard) with a bolt in the zerk thread, tapped them (fairly hard) on the ends. I think i will need to remove the springs and press the sleeve out (with pin in place) or weld a nut on the end of the pin and thread it out of the sleeve. But the pins and sleeves are hard to find so i don't want to destroy them. If somebody has an idea that would make this easier, and hopefully save the pins, that would be great! Bill
  11. Sounds perfect. Who knew it would be so obvious? Thanks.
  12. someplace I read about redoing the crackly paint on 36 heaters but now can't find the info or the product. Can anybody help?
  13. Paul, I'm VERY interested. I hope it's not a hassle. Any way of sending it would be fine with me. Thanks Bill