Jump to content

Bill Stewart

Members
  • Content Count

    109
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

27 Excellent

About Bill Stewart

  • Rank
    100+ Posts

Recent Profile Visitors

702 profile views
  1. Number one, you've got to get a shop manual. Asking questions here is great and you will find many smart and patient people. Also start using the "search" feature at the top right of the screen to look up specific questions. It takes a little practice wording your search to get the most helpful answers. Welcome. Good luck.
  2. Thanks for all the ideas everybody. I got hooked on Gary W's links re: carburetors/fuel pumps/gas tank senders/etc. Remarkable work Gary! Thanks. I will be going through all your contributions whether it involves a problem of mine or not! This whole discussion led me to follow everybody's ideas, and my own, all over the blog. Very helpful. Most contributors are very considerate no matter how new or uninformed the questioner may be. I had not known until today that there is a website to find no alcohol gas or that we can remove alcohol by mixing the gas with water to separate. Something so
  3. I really do hate it when I raise an issue that all you old folks think is off the wall----but if modern fuels are such a problem can the old fuels be approximated by cutting slightly with a less refined product, perhaps kerosene or diesel? Would that result in a lower octane rating?
  4. Actually carbking, thank you for your response. I take it that this wicking problem would not have been present when the cars were built, but because of thinner (actually)? fuel and the porosity or surface "fuzziness" of the old castings, the wicking is a modern problem. I bought my 36 (now parts car) in 1956 and I recall no such odor situation in the garage then. Of course my memory may be as "fuzzy" as the old castings and I didn't have a wife who thinks gas odors in the garage are a negative thing.
  5. Actually carbking, thank you for your response. I take it that this wicking problem would not have been present when the cars were built, but because of thinner (actually)? fuel and the porosity or surface "fuzziness" of the old castings, the wicking is a modern problem. I bought my 36 (now parts car) in 1956 and I recall no such odor situation in the garage then. Of course my memory may be as "fuzzy" as the old castings and I didn't have a wife who thinks gas odors in the garage are a negative thing.
  6. Carbkings reply to my original question was not serious. Neither was my similar quality response suggesting that he fill his carb with epoxy. Carbking misunderstood my suggestion, thinking that I was making some kind of serious suggestion. All of this is not constructive. So, seriously, has anyone ever come upon an idea to stop gasoline from wicking out of the carb? Coating the inside of the bowl and cover with something impervious to fuel? Something like the old shellac on carb floats (before modern fuels). A few years ago I made a fiberglass gas tank for a boat using epoxy resin. Still
  7. Thanks Morgan. I realized that you didn't know that my carb is a downdraft. I especially appreciated the helpful suggestions from the king of carbs though. I am sure he would only propose solutions that he has tried and found useful. I wondered if he has considered filling the carb on his 1979 with epoxy to eliminate the odor. Or maybe he could consult a specialist.
  8. Morgan, my car is a 36 Roadmaster. This is not the first time I've learned something that everyone else seems to know. I'm thinking hard about carbkings suggestions to decide which ones to try. I'll let everybody know what works.
  9. The gasket between the bowl and cover on my carb is always wet with gas until the fuel is almost gone. The fuel level is exactly where it should be but it "wicks" up the inside of the bowl, blots through the gasket and wets part of the outside of the bowl. I have removed the carb cover, dried the inside of the bowl above the fuel and watched the gas crawl up the side of the bowl like it might wet a blotter. I made a new gasket of rubber (figuring its not "wickable") and fuel still gets out. What am I missing? I can't find anything on the blog about this. This really bugs me---I can always smel
  10. 1936McBUICK, I have one that is in two pieces(both bent) and pitted. If he can work with that, he would be welcome to contact me.
  11. Well! I feel really dumb----or at least terribly unobservant! In your very good article Joe, I missed the "Key to Suppliers" which told where to get the bulb part numbers that you listed. Certainly takes the mystery out of things! I could also have helped myself if I had first learned what the abbreviation/code numbers system is all about. Thanks to all of you who did not point out that I should know at least a little bit before expecting to get bailed out.
  12. Many thanks to everybody!!! But especially to Joe. Joe, I read your article before looking for bulbs. It was perfectly organized and very informative but, of course, couldn't provide the specific detail that I was looking for. My head does not work well for electrical stuff and there were too many choices available on line. I do not know what the "L" means with the 63-L and 81-L but they are shown that way in my shop manual. And Joe, can you recommend a bulb for the stop light, # 87? The information and sources given by others will also be very helpful.----Turn signals are next! I'll try
  13. I would like to install LED's in my 36 (excluding headlights). I am finding the numbers and terms used by different sources confusing. The 36 shop manual labels the original incandescent bulbs #51, 55, 63-L, 81-L, and 87-L. Can someone provide the numbers for the right LED's or point me in the right direction for info?
  14. I recently contacted White Glove Restorations where I spoke with Crin Dima and ordered two Trippe Light bulbs. In subsequent days I inquired about several other things which had little profit potential for Crin. He was pleasant and helpful beyond any reasonable expectation. I know that he is introducing new products. He deserves our support.
  15. Paul, Additionally, the felt around the floorboards is about twice as thick as you can easily get these days. It was rather casually fitted and tacked only to the bottom. The felt extended beyond the edge of the floorboard about 3/4 of an inch and folded up the edge when pushed into position. (Probably more than you ever needed to know about that subject). Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...